Wise to look for the two arrows on the fan too , ones direction of rotation , little or no odds , the other is direction of airflow , well worth a check ,,
I must say I am impressed you could get parts after 6 years. One of the reasons I tend stick with brands like Lincoln and Hobart is the assumption I will be able to get parts and/or repairs for those machines if something breaks many years later.
Since those fans are computer type fans, I wonder if you can fit an PC high performance fan, like the ones using on gaming machines. Noctua and Corsair sell very good ones. They put out far more air, not to mention the quality. After all the machine is out of warranty and seems to have plenty room.
@@KevincaronSculpture 255 ext here and the only fault I had wasn't exactly a fault. The coil for arc initiation would never reach its charge to cycle... More of a tolerance issue of the capacitors within that subassembly board, but also within the first 3 days. They're good as gold thought andi didn't have drag out my oscilloscope for anything. New one is my favorite tool and I what's keep her in her own bed room! 🤣 Hard to put away habits as an electronics technician in the Navy and EE student years ago. Great machines and an honest company.
Yes sir, it's in the manuals. I try to never grind anything near mine and tungstens are the hardest thing to remember. Just try to grind away from the machine and turn it off whenever you're not using it. It'll save you from always having to clean it, especially on the 255 ext I own. Those fans pull hard. I use a shop vac &/or a leaf blower under the hood.
@@Aint1S l tried setting a magnet up over/near the air intake. The idea was it was supposed to catch some of the metallic particles before they went into the machine. Limited success. Might have worked better if you pulled the air through a series of magnets. Other than that, l just stick a toothpick between the fan blades to keep them from spinning when l blow my welder out.
As always, clear and concise information! There are, however, a couple people who might not be comfortable doing this work. (Um, OBSERVING for a friend...):-)
By Keven .I have a Avenger 181mts mig .power going to it .Fans are on wire comes out but no sparks. Warning overheat light on ln the front panel.Was working ok the day before.Anything come to mind,not an. Old machine
Did you change anything from when it worked? Switch to a different process maybe? Or someone else was using the machine and changed something? Not enough information to make a guess as to what may be wrong.
I only use Noctua fans also, after having so much trouble with cheap fans. They do make 24V fans. I would think Everlast is using common fans that other company's make. You will have to do a little soldering, but well worth the extra effort.
@@KevincaronSculpture Yes, you supposed to hold the fan blade with a finger or obstacle when blowing to clean. and you seemed to have a beloved partner for supporting your technical work.
Excellent thank you for posting this. I don't own a everlast but it was very interesting to see inside of one. I would like to have seen how you blew all the dust out. Did that fix the overheating problem that you were having ?
Hi Paul Yes, replacing the 2 fans and the control board fixed the problem I was having with this machine. Blowing the dust out I am sure helped as well.
First check the fans to make sure they are running. Second, pull the cover off and blow out the insides with low pressure air. DO NOT BLOW OUT THE FANS! You can ruin the fans by blowing they too fast or backwards. If this doesn't work, please call tech support and they will help you figure out what is wrong.
@@KevincaronSculpture I contacted Everlast. They recommended I put a jumper across the temp circuit wires. It still wouldn’t work. They recommend it be sent in to them for anything further. It is an older unit, and I don’t want to put that kind of money into it. Fan is good. Blows hard. If I could get a schematic or block diagram I might could repair it. Any ideas?
A single drop of oil would fix this, caused by dry fan bearing. The brushless fan motor spindle has a sleeve bearing (oilite porous sintered bronze). Peel back the sticker on top of the fan blade hub, remove small center plug with a jeweller's screwdriver, add 1 drop oil (SAE 30 oil, 3 in 1 electric motor oil, etc, but not any spray type oil), reassemble.
@@KevincaronSculpture vegas summers welding gates in the middle of summer could melt the inside of a fridge with enough time but pretty much lmao the miller kind of stood up to the heat but Lincoln 140 no problems ever still running strong
@@KevincaronSculpture I just purchased a Eastwood elite mp250. Looked very similar except for no pulse mig. Curious how it shapes up. Shame no AHPs we're available. Did you get rid of yours?
Typically these style fans (let's lump them in with PC fans aside from the voltage difference) use brushless DC motors. There should be no brushes to wear out. But you might be on to something with the compressed air. If you spin the fan fast enough it can generate a higher backemf than the input voltage, either high enough to exceed the transistor blocking voltage for the bridge (H bridge or 3 phase inverter) or you could pop capacitors by exceeding their rating. Or you could damage the FETs by overheating them with excess current due to some transient or whatever as they conduct through their body diodes. I might have to destroy some fans for science.
