Thanks!! I was having hot motors and NOTHING I did would help... Messed with filters, PIDs, checked hardware, NOTHING. After changing to 48khz PWM, turning Demag Compensation off, and autotiming for motors... MUCH BETTER. Still a little warm, but definitely fixable through filters and PIDs! THANK YOU.
Nice & informative. I have never had a problem with hot motors but I recognized a long time ago my motors only got warm when the oscillations were bad & my props were ratty. A few days ago, my quad would take off on its own as soon as I armed it & the motors would be a little warm; the problem was that the props were three months old, floppy from rebends & unbalanced af. As soon as I replaced the props, everything was good. Then again, I use the Hobbywing G2 stack. It is rock solid & doesnt even need tuning. Cant wait to try out that Flightone FC. So glad you always insert a flight sequence. Thumbs up, buddy!
I recently had this issue. 6S / 7in build, all motors where getting VERY hot almost instantly after arming and going into a hover / mild flying. Would land about 30 seconds in and the motors where way too hot to even touch and smelled like they where burning! Tried all these steps and more and could not correct the issue. I was completely at a loss and getting very frustrated, I spent hours troubleshooting. I knew the build was configured right. For some reason I decided to switch the set of props out to a new but completely identical set. Boom! the issue disappeared like it was never there. I could not believe it. Turns out the set of props I was using, which was new btw, was defective and two out of the four props where total out of balance and super slightly deformed. You would never know by looking at each prop individually but stacking all on top of each other you could see the slight difference. Prop balancer also confirmed 2 of the 4 where out of balance. I could not believe that was the issue and had no idea out of balance props could cause that much havok to a quad. Now I'm concerned I significantly shortened the lifespan of my new motors and flight stack from the stress it apparently was going through dealing with the out of balance props.
Also just flying in this 110° F heat here in Texas you are just going to get hot motors period. If you can't grab your motors with your fingers and hold them tight for 2-3 seconds than they are too hot at which point you will smell the enamel burning off the coils.
Upgraded my u580 with a flycolor 4n1 60a esc. After a 10 minute flight I averaged around 26-28 amp draw in flight on 4006/740kv motors with 11 inch props. The motors were hot to the touch for a good 5 minutes afterwards. Concerning hot. Changed the timing to auto, disabled dmag, and the pwm to 48 (highest available) and the next flight I was only drawing 18-20 amps average and it extended my flight time from 10 minutes to about 15. Not only were the motors basically ambient temp but the battery was cooler too. Appreciate the advice!
Hey Nick, great video! I 100% agree on PWM Frequency to 48 KHz and Motor Timing on Auto, but setting Demag Compensation to Off might easily cause desyncs, especially on 6S. That might not happen for people who run only top notch hardware, but with cheaper ESCs and motors, it might be enough to make the quad fall out of the sky - it will fall from the sky with cool motors, but still. :) So carefull with that setting! For everyone who has watched this and tried all of it, ESC settings, lower Gyro and D-Term Cutoff Frequencies, checked for long screws, lower D-Term on PIDs and so on, and STILL has problems with hot motors and a fluttery/shaky flying quad, try this: Take your props off (important!), put your quad on the bench and connect to Betaflight configurator, go to the motors tab, connect a lipo, check that "I know the risks"-button and then power up each motor individually. If one makes your quad vibrate on the bench a LOT more than the other motors, you might have a bent motor shaft and need to replace that motor. Sometimes it's very hard to see with the naked eye, but this test won't lie. If one motor vibrates a lot that will be practically impossible to filter out and all that noise goes into the PID loop and cook your motors, all of them. So if you have a bad motor, swap it out, before it kills all the others. :) And one additional tip: You probably heard many folks say it's better to stick with Betaflight 3.51 for now and not upgrade to Betaflight 4 just yet, eh? Don't trust them, make up your own mind! :) I found filtering in Betaflight 4 to be MUCH better than before, so give it a chance, it's not that new anymore. ;)
@@WillardFPV617 I haven't tried FalcoX myself yet, but I hear good things about it! :) Do you cap your throttle or scale it? I scale mine on my CineWhoops and love that feature - scaling does the same thing as capping, but without losing stick resolution. :)
Actually, what I just said is not 100% correct, because while capping will not let you increase throttle above a certain point, all the stick travel above it is effectively useless, and scaling will scale whatever your throttle limit is over the full way of stick travel, so effectively it even increases your resolution on the limit you set. So scaling allows for finer adjustments, while capping has the benefit of keeping your muscle memory as is, since throttle percentages stay where they were on the stick before. :)
This is why I stick to my old ass beta flight. I’m on like 3.0.1. Where I still have dialed in pids and fly the same setup as always. I still caveman wire my esc’s and never use blheli. My quads always fly perfect. I stick with what works for me.
Thank you so much for this video!! Ive been cooking motor bearings all year from super hot motors. I changed my ESC settings and now theyre cool as fffffffff. Youre the man Willy!!!
OMG finally got my motors to run cool. Thank you @Wild Willy FPV. My cinewhoop was fine on 4S but fried motors on 6S. Those ESC settings has finally cooled the motors!
DUDE! Thanks you so much for making this video! I literally just built my first quad about a week ago and I've been having such a crappy time trying to get it to fly even a little bit good. I was just about to flash back to BF 3.5.7 and then I saw this video. So Thanks again, I'm glad i'm not the only one having these issues.
I found most all hot motors come from not grounded properly make sure connector and cap have a super solid connection 90% of desyncs come from poor filtering
Motors feel like motors after a flight on a hot day. I can feel there is a little bit of heat but the last time I was flying I had to wait for a while because they were scalding. Thank you!
Thank you! I have hot motors on my 9 inch quad and loads of oscillations and vibrations. Gonna try a few of these things and see what works. Thanks again, life saver!
Good timing on this video. I'm on a fresh build and motors were a little hotter than normal but no big deal. They actually cooled down going to 51466's which was surprising since they are more aggressive than DAL 5040c & S3's that I normally run. You reminded me that I always set my PWM to 48 and timing to auto but completely forgot. Also remember that your favorite prop may not be the best for a new motor, and though rare sometimes you can get a bad batch. Try different props too
Thanks!! This is literally the exact issue I'm having on my 6" lr build. Tried 3.5.4 all the way to 4.0.4 with no luck. My guess is esc settings. I'll let you know
Nice vid bro 👊 i do get hot motors sometimes , im so lazy and hardly hook it up to com and have a look . Lol ive learnt to fly with noise . Cheers bro 👊
Thanks for putting out this video. I recently switched to Flightone because I don't get a lot of time to fly and when I do I don't want to waste it on trying to tune betaflight. I'll be honest I suck at it and with betaflight constantly changing that didn't help my situation. I'm having a lot better experience with Flightone but my motors are a little warmer than I like. There is a huge lack of video content on the technical side of Flightone as compared to betaflight so I really appreciate when a good video like this drops. Great job!
Great tips mate, thanks. 😃👍In the whole time I have been flying fpv I never got hot motors. I'd hear all the stories about people getting hot motors until one day I updated my firmware on my fc and didn't notice my Ps in my PIDs were super high from the update. I'm glad I only hover tested it before I went out and ripped.
Great video Willy, you did a great job describing the issue and how to resolve it. I am going to try your technique. Do you do anything different with filters or esc timing when running 5 or 6 s packs rather than 4s?
Nick's got the great info to share beyond the hot motors. You really help the community with your insight! I really want to leave a nasty comment like you ask, but I can't.. maybe someday
I have a set of Brotherhobby VY 1507 that I challenge you to tame. Hot enough to blister your fingers. Tried your advice, two entirely different high quality ESCs, two entirely different flight controllers, all 4 motors get very hot within 15 seconds. I would like to like these motors but they have beaten me. I am not a noob. If you want a challenge I will send them to you and you keep them with my only request is to find out what you may find to fix the problem.
Possible other reasons: D-Term actually too low and remove any soft mounts from the motors. At least that were two things I noticed in my Hot-Motor Journey. ,P
@@yosayogi539 I'd say mainly because it adds filtering that you can not control and also because it creates more troubles (like with screw sizes) than it solves. ,)
NB! Lots of people have been experiencing wobbles during low throttle using 48kHz PWM on a 5 inch. 48kHz reduces thrust at low RPM, which then wrecks the ability of the PID loop to maintain low throttle stability.
Thanks for the tip been trying to solve the hot motors thing for two months yours was the first video to address blheli frickin awesome worked great thanks again, keep em coming
My motors were fine until it got into the mid 80s outside. I noticed today that after just 1 battery, so 2min 30sec my motors burn my fingers if I hold them for more than 5 seconds. They never got hot like that before. This past winter I went from BF 4.2 to BF 4.3 and used a tuning and filter preset. Motors were just mildly warm when it was cold outside, but now too hot to touch. I did check and my blheli_32 was set to 24khz PWM. I changed that to 48khz. I'll try it out tomorrow.
You have a luci and well founded description, However it's a near Zero to those who are new to quads etc (I.E.most like to unknowingly fry a motor from lack of first hand experience without a full visual tutorial.) Re-do this with on computer screen visual and cease use of acronyms. Then you will have an excellent useful tutorial that can be applied practically by nearly everyone who is in need of such issues with hot motors.
Ima try that for sure. Reflashed the BlHeli_32s to stock and stuff and re did the Radix to the latest. Before it would tweak out after grazing something within 20 seconds and drop or, it would have a 1 Hz bounce back after pitch or roll part way through the flight and I had to baby it or it would get worse and land.
Thanks mate, you helped me cool down my motors (2514 AirB), but now my ESC is getting really hot. Like in 20 seconds of hovering it's too hot to touch. Its a Racerstar Metal V2 60A ESC on 6S. Any ideas?
I just made the ESC setting changes on my 3" Gecko. I haven't had a chance to fly it. (bad weather). Does your ESC recommendations work on 3" quads as well?
The weather finally cleared and I was able to put her in the air. I just wanted to report that with these ESC settings, I had no issues what-so-ever! Thanks.
What about the filter TYPE and AA. Would those also affect the hot motor fix. If so, in what way or which filter would coldest (probably alot less performance) medium heat (best performance) and hot but not burning (WILLARD JUICE).
You can change the filter types, but it gets a little more complicated in tuning so I would just leave the default filter types. I usually add a second biquad on d term though even though most stock tunes only have 1
Hello! Where can i see and set these settings in Betaflight? PWM Frequency to 48 KHz, Motor Timing on Auto, Demag Compensation to Off. The motors on my Mobula 7 tiny whoop, specially the back motors gets very hot during flights. And i only fly it low and slow on angle mode only, running on 2s 450mah batteries. And i have checked them again and again, there's no shorts with the screw mounts touching the motor windings. Please help. Thanks!
I saw you post on IG saying follow this for Oscillations or Hot motors.. if I have a beat up quad that’s starting to get oscillations.. what adjustments could I do to make it fly better till parts arrive. Do these steps still apply? Beat up carbon and unbalanced motor are what I’m assuming are the problems
hey i crashed my drone into a tree and it was left there in the rain for about 6 days, i replaced everything except for the FC and ive been getting extremly hot motors at hover ever since i rescured it; i didnt touch the pids or filters before the crash and my motors never got hot. is there a high chance that my gryo is just damaged? the drone is mechanically fine.
Love this video, thank you! I tried upgrading my esc's like you said to do, and I am getting this wierd message, any idea what it means? It says "ESC 3: ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ16.6, ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ"
Just do the esc fix like you suggest and mine pretty hot motors now stay only slightly warm. I use Betaflight 4 with rpm filtering and there it working awesome to. Thank you!
Bro. I need help with my Dolphin1 / FalcoX build. I’m trying this process. And if it doesn’t work I’m gunna try a new FC because everything else is new
And I have hot motors with blheli_s... 3 sets of brand new motors two brands (Xing-E 2208 1800kv and T-motor F60Pro III 1750kv), three frames of two types, new props, BF 3.5.7 and 4.10 and some in between. Filter settings and PID settings has no impact at all. No shortcircuits... Blackbox shows nothing bad... Motors and FC are softmounted and i even put damping material between the arms and the plates..., three different flightcontrollers. Two different brands of ESCs but they are all 8-bit on 24KHz Blheli_s and tried with jESC with the RPM filters in BF 4.10. Still running hot regardless if I run 4s or 6s. I'm running low on ideas... The exact same setup ran on 4s with my old ZMX 2205 2300kv cool like coming from my pocket. And yes i have 470uF on each ESC and another 1000uF on the battery leads.
I have some weirdness going on. This is my first FL-1/FalcoX build and I'm not sure what a micro failsafe feels like with fl1 but the kwad feels really notchy and dead stick feel? I'm running X-FIRE...IDK its hard to explain?
Would the esc settings things be an all of the sudden thing? My quad was fine then all of the sudden have problems where any amount of throttle cause major noise and is un flyable and motors are super hot
