How to fix into Plasterboard - Video #1 

If the gap is very small just use a concrete screw and go straight into the wall

Thank you so much! What fixings did you use in the end?

Ah, great work Margaret. Did you use the hole wall anchors in the end?

@@CharlieDIYte yes i did and when i needed my non diy husband to give some help with the screwdriving strength ( ive had wrist surgery) i made him watch the video too! Worked perfectly.

Hi Nicola. Thanks so much for your lovely message - comments like yours make all the hard work videoing and editing worth while!! I have to say you've absolutely chosen the right fixing there. In my day job fitting curtains (often into plasterboard) these fixings are my complete favourite. Once you master the technique of choosing the right screw and tightening it to the right amount (which you clearly have) these little fixings are a real game changer. Congratulations on finishing the house - I've still got half a house to decorate so I'm very jealous :) oh, and if you have any questions about any DIY going forward, drop me a comment. I love helping out!

Charlie DIYte Thank you for the reply Charlie😀 One of my biggest disasters had been with bathroom fittings and the mess an size of holes the Helter Skelter fittings leave! Also I have OCD so trying to then put it back up centred and in line was a nightmare😩 I can't believe these small Fischer plugs have kept my towel rail solid to the wall(my 8yr old Grandson is very heavy handed!) so I'm delighted to say the least! Also I have used the Anchor bolts on my hollow doors, however, I did not set them properly the first time an the coat rail came right out. So then I moved an set them properly an its now secure to the door an the coats don't end up on the cupboard floor😂 I love decorating but was absolutely dreading it as I was nervous about the fixings, so I dug out all the helter skelter, filled an sanded the holes an I had a clean canvas to start with, which was brilliant, so thank you so much again! Hope your decorating goes well👍🏼 Also if I have any more queries I certainly will message you😀 Have a nice day an thanks again Charlie.

+Nicola Bray Awesome work - well done you! At least with plaster board it's reasonably easy to fill and sand. I use Gyproc Easi-Fill which is a fantastic filler, but it sounds like you've got this down to a fine art as well! Thanks again for all your comments - you have a nice day too!

Thanks Fred - that's great to hear, thanks for letting me know! Helter skelters should have a massive health warning attached to them - I don't know why they're still so widely available and loyally used!!

This is the issue I am having! The fixtures I have are too long and keep hitting the brick wall! What do I do !

@@rebeccadavidson388 my advice is either use a shorter screw that doesn't reach the brick, and follow the fixing guide here. Or drill right into the brick and use a normal wall plug as that will hold sturdy into the brick wall

You're welcome. Those self drive (helter skelter) fixings should be banned, or at the very least slapped with a massive limitation warning.

You're very kind Mick, thanks for the feedback! Sorry for the late reply - Christmas and all that! As you've so kindly subscribed, you'll see my next video, which is going to be a run down on ALL THE BEST FIXINGS ON THE MARKET IN THE UK - and when to use each one, screw lengths etc etc - so hopefully this will help. In terms of stud work, if it's metal stud partitioning (ie the thin stuff that supports plasterboard), then your best bet is to use a drywall screw goo.gl/omYCpa which are designed to pierce into light metal or wooden stud without you needing to drill a pilot hole. In actual fact, you can normally get away with any screws eg goo.gl/DsoCc9 into light metal work if you're using an electric screwdriver. If it's a reinforced steel joist (RSJ) you're screwing into, there's a really neat trick - that basically involves drilling a pilot hole into the joist with, say a 3.5mm HSS drill bit and then self tapping a fractionally wider screw into the hole. See my comment above, replying to "whereiskit" for full details on how this works - and as ever, if you have any questions, drop me a line in the Comments feed, and I'll do my best to help.

Thanks!

what do you use in South Africa?

Thanks Eddie. That's a great tip. I'll check them out!

Yes Jane. Helter skelters are hopeless. Here's my most recent vid on this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html

Thanks Marc. Apologies you had to sit through the cheesy music. This one is the update video WITHOUT music goo.gl/yDBhWs in case you haven't already seen it. Yes, the PD8s are pretty good - particularly where you have limited space in the void behind the plasterboard and don't want to/ can't drill into the substrata behind. That said, I've been WELL impressed with the new Fischer DUOPOWER - 8x40 - which is the direct, albeit slightly larger version of the UX6. You might give that a go also. Check them out in my video here goo.gl/RXEUjC at 6.31 minutes into the vid. And finally, to throw a curve ball into the works, I was contacted last night by someone who's just launched a new product on Screwfix called "Bladefixer" goo.gl/3yAYgE Not sure you've heard about it (I certainly hadn't) but it's a clever design. My only reservation with it is that you'd have to be reasonably skillful to get 2 level across a wall, but I might give them a go. Might be good for your kitchen cabinets?? Check out their Twitter page - where they've uploaded various videos showing you how they work.

will do mate I’ll check them out. The properties I work in (council flats and housing) were obviously built on the cheap in the early to mid 70’s and an awful lot of them were dot and dab plasterboard using plaster as the dab, not the dab adhesive of modern day standards. They were dabbed onto poured concrete walls if you can picture it, shuttered with plywood to keep it in position so fixing to basically gravel is impossible! So many of the original plasterboard has been replaced in so many properties as the original stuff becomes loose eventually. Hense the need for so many different plasterboard fixings. It’s a dark world with so many variations, condition of plasterboard, quality of fixing and load weight or the product you are fixing to the wall, experience teaches you everything! Keep up the videos mate, I enjoy watching them! Marc

Marc Gray Will do mate. Thanks!

Thanks buddy. Watch this one though. More comprehensive and no annoying music ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html

Thank you. Keep an eye out for this weekend's video as it will be a plasterboard fixings update. I'm sorry for the loud cheesy music - it was a mistake in my early videos 🤦🏻‍♂️

+huvs gib Really glad to hear that! Thanks so much for letting me know!

Thanks Colin. There's a slightly updated, cheesy music free version here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html. Also, given it's a heavy venetian, if you hit a metal lintel make sure you watch this one - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G1ziRy_OJbU.html

Don't you dare! 😉You need to watch this update ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html 👍

Hi, which one did you use for blinds? I've got some large roller blinds for bifolds

Hi. Thanks so much for that. It never ceases to amaze me how kind folk like you (to coin your phrase) take the time to comment on my videos as it's so easy to just click away when you've found out what you need, and it's invaluable for me as it's the comments that keep me doing these videos!! Have you looked at this one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html as it's a bit of an update and doesn't have the cheesy music that dogged my earlier videos 🙄 Yes, helter skelters are fine for the odd picture, just not for things like curtain tracks where you've got a tensile force pulling out of the wall. I was really impressed with these ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aeFyQS2NGVM.html where you've got really heavy things to fix. I'll be doing a 2019 update on plasterboard fixings shortly so keep an eye out for that! Thanks again, Charlie

I was trying to fix ikea vigda rails to my L box curtain pelmet with plasterboard. May I know which plug you been using?

Thanks and apologies for the cheesy music in these old videos 🤦 I'll be doing a plasterboard fixings update video later this year.

You're welcome. Sorry about the cheesy music though. I'll be doing a comprehensive update vid later this year.

Yes David, don't use them unless you absolutely have to. Fisher Duopower 8x40 are a good option. If it's a venetian blind you're going to have a huge force on it when you pull on the cord to raise the blind, so you have to get this right. If it's a Roman on a chain, much less so bit the brackets you're using will to an extent dictate what fixing you can use.

@@CharlieDIYte yes it's a Venetian, good point on the pulling force! Off to Wickes I go!

Thanks Vijay, but this is the one you want to watch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html 👍

Thanks for letting me know, Shane! Much appreciated. I'd be happy to help if you've got any other questions on wall fixings.

Charlie DIYte get some more videos up explaining stuff for us keen but no clue diyers lol

I'm on the case :)

Would like to know how to remove too

You're very welcome, Jonathan - thanks for the comment. You might also check out the updated video if you haven't already seen it, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html and if you have any specific questions about what you're trying to put up, ping it over and I'll see if I can help

Thanks. Sorry about the cheesy music. Check out this one which is more up to date and doesn't have the music ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html Also I'll be doing a run through of what I think are all the best plasterboard fixings on the market soon, so keep a look out for that. Thanks for the comment!

Thank you. Apologies for the music though. There's a 2017 update here without music 😉 bit.ly/2slhVpH

Thanks Polly. So sorry you had to sit through the cheesy music though. 🙄 Here's an update without the music and I'll be doing a new comprehensive plasterboard fixings vid in the new year. Thanks so much for watching my vids 👍🏻 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html

Thanks. This update is much more comprehensive though ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.htmlsi=nFLBnNc3Xfo9-tDu 👊

Thanks Frankie - really appreciate that! I'm posting an update in a few weeks, so keep an eye out for that!

Jay Dee Cheers mate - you're very kind but you might take a look at the updated video that includes toggle fixings amongst others ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html

You're welcome. That's very generous, with the cheesy music in the background 🙄 This is the updated version although I'll be doing another update some time this year ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html Thanks again 👍

Yes it does on both fronts so long as the neck is still only the thickness of the Plasterboard - they do versions for double thickness Plasterboard too. But an m5x52 will open up more than the shorter version. Check out this updated video - more comprehensive and no cheesy music ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html

You're welcome but apologies for the music. Two now you might like Corefix bit.ly/2RvkVxb and Geefix bit.ly/352tcwB and I'm doing a general update later this summer 👍🏻

You're welcome (sorry about the cheesy music)!

Thanks mate! Yes I've seen a couple of those demonstrations where they're not using the plugs properly. Take a look at this video which is an update and there is thankfully no cheesy music in the background ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html

Thanks so much for the feedback. Let me know if you need any help or advice putting it back up!

Thanks mate. Sorry about the cheesy music though. Here's a slightly updated version without it, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html although I'll be doing another update later this year.

It's gone. That was a big mistake that I can't delete now. But you might take a look at this goo.gl/umNdGo - it's the updated version with new fixings, and doesn't have any cheesy music! Thanks for the comment, and sorry about the music!

I agree … excellent video … except for the music!

Ok very helpful,how ever I have an issue in my bathroom,I have a tiled wall then behind the tiles I have plasterboard,there has been a glass shower screen fitted there is a metal rail attached to the wall,who ever fitted it has used wrong rawl plugs because it’s coming away from the wall, I have heard that the best fixings to use for this are like long screwed type with 2 like legs that open behind the plaster board if you know what I mean any help would be appreciated

@@seanwallace1972 Maybe this will help : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lHb-Tcvkn7M.html

@@simonrickard6179 that’s very helpful thank you,although there won’t be and weight load when shower screen is resting on side of bath,how ever my partner sometimes moves it,(it’s pivoted from fixing bar on wall)so I think they spring toggle type will be fine thank you

Thanks but check out this comprehensive update ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html

Thanks! You might just check out the update video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html as it has a few new options and no cheesy annoying music!

Thanks for the feedback - I really appreciate that! There's a really neat trick for fixing into metal joists - something I myself learnt from a curtain fitter who works for me (I run a curtain company, which is pretty handy given what you're installing!) Drill into the joist using, say a 3.5mm HSS drill bit (ie a drill bit designed for drilling into metal). Keep drilling until the drill bit either goes straight through the joist, or until you have drilled further into the joist than the length of the screw you're going to fix into it. Then, very gently start screwing a screw that is fractionally wider - say 4mm diameter wide - into the joist. As I said, the screw wants to be a bit shorter than the depth of the hole you've drilled, unless you went straight through the joist, in which case there's probably plenty of space to take a 40mm, 50mm or 60mm length screw. It does not have to be a self tapping screw - I rarely use self tappers in this scenario. Initially the screw will be quite tight as you screw it in, and then it will become a bit easier, once it has tapped it's own groove in the metal. A WORD OF CAUTION THOUGH - if the screw is so tight you can't screw it into the joist, don't force it as you'll risk snapping off the screw. In this scenario take out the screw and drill a slightly wider hole in the joist. It takes a bit of experimenting, but if you perfect this you'll have THE BEST FIXING you could ever hope for. WHY NOT USE A WALL PLUG IN THE STEEL, I hear a few people asking? I used to do this, but it's a lot more effort drilling a wider diameter hole in a steel joist, and then you've got to find the right wall plug and screw to get a tight fixing. Much better to self tap a screw into the joist as outlined above. Hope that helps. Any queries, drop me another comment :)

+neiltheken Thanks for the feedback. Means a lot!

Thanks Neil. You might like to take a look at my updated video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html (if you haven't already!)

+UTGold Really glad to hear it! Thanks for letting me know!

Hi Anthony. Thanks for getting in touch :) No, I haven't tried the Porsadrill system, though the reviews seem to be pretty favourable goo.gl/fnmg6l. Clearly the hollow wall anchors are the belt and braces approach for getting a decent fixing, but as you say, drilling 10mm holes in tiles all the time is not for the faint hearted! It's a little difficult for me to comment on your project without knowing more about it, but if it was me, I'd probably stick with the 6mm Armeg (unless of course you need the wider diameter drills for pipework etc?) - because it's so quick and easy - and then use Fischer UX6 fixings. I'm guessing the cupboard, being round the sink, isn't going to be exerting any weight on the wall, so UX6 fixings would more than suffice. Same goes for the bath? Feel free to give me a little more info so I can comment further.

I'd say wall anchors m5x52 or Geefix ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aeFyQS2NGVM.html

Hi there! Thanks for the comments. I would say that spring toggles are as good as anchor fixings - perhaps better as the toggle opens up wider than the anchor fixing inside the plasterboard. I didn't feature them in the video simply because I tend to use anchor fixings as a general rule in my day job - but I will at some point post an update featuring them :) The only downsides of spring toggles is that you can't remove the screw once you've inserted the toggle - without the toggle disengaging, and they can be a little fiddly to insert and open up depending on what obstructions you've got in the ceiling. So if you've got two screws for example you may need to drill the holes and then insert both toggles at the same time. That said, if you've already bought the spring toggles, I'd be inclined to use them. I know I said you can secure the anchor fixing without the setting tool, but it is a little tricky as you need a pair of long nosed pliers or similar to hold the anchor and stop it spinning whilst you tighten the screw. Care has to be taken whilst doing this as you can damage the plasterboard if the pliers slip whilst you're tightening the screw. That said, if you're keen to try anchor fixings instead you could order a setting tool and the anchors tomorrow from Screwfix and they'd deliver by Saturday. Make sure you buy the right sized anchors for the depth of the plasterboard though! I hope this is helpful. Do reply with your thoughts as there may be more discussion to be had, and I want to help you get this right!

hi thanks for the detailed response i did pick up some spring toggles today as it's for a shower rail support rod and i have no other plasterboard in the house i didn't want to spend any more money than needed getting 5 in a pack for £2.50 if i do ever remove it its no problem the setting tool alone in screwfix is £10 i did also watch a video from another youtuber that tested 6 different fixing and showed m5 toggle bolts to be the strongest because this was going into a ceiling i wanted the strongest fixing i could find thanks again

No worries. Last thing - make sure you've got the correct diameter drill. If I'm not mistaken, you need a 14mm diameter drill bit with M5s - but I'm guessing the other RU-vidr would have covered that in his vid. Good luck!

yep need a 14mm i am going to use a 12mm paddle bit and wiggle it in also the other youtuber was Ultimate Handyman thanks

Thanks for the info!

They're equally hopeless whether you self tap them or drill a pilot. I've been fitting into plasterboard for years in the soft furnishings business. These plugs are hopeless for any load that exerts an outward or cantilever force.

@@CharlieDIYte ..... I worked for a kitchen and bathroom fitters for around ten years, and we used these all the time. Every kitchen wall cabinet that we ever fitted in a plasterboard house is held up by these. And we've never lost a cupboard. I think we would have heard had one fell off the wall!

Hi Julie, thanks for the comment. I agree - big mistake that - which I've massively learnt from! You might take a look at this - which is the update to the video you watched, if you haven't already ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html

Thanks Charlie - I had already started to watch this and noticed the music had gone. Much better. Added your videos to watch later and scribbling lots of notes to refer to. I always just buy loads of screws and rawlplugs and hope for the best - majority of time it works but have had some issues which you have addressed in one of your replies to someone else. Not many videos I can watch on You Tube without getting irritated. Yours (now minus the music) are perfect.

Thanks Julie. I appreciate that!

Thanks! I'm a bit embarrassed about that music Check out the updated video that doesn't have the cheesy backing track bit.ly/2slhVpH . The white thing is just a curtain track bracket. I was just using that as a turning stop to tighten the fixing up against. If you decide to use the wall anchors without a setting tool like I showed here bit.ly/2Fa0C36 it is crucial you have a turning stop to tighten the anchor up against, otherwise it won't open properly and make a mess of your wall. For the other fixings your bracket or whatever you're fixing to the wall will act as the turning stop.

The wall anchor will as it forces itself open in the insulation. I'm doing an update video in a week or two so keep an eye out for that 👍

@@CharlieDIYte thank you 👍

Thanks. You might want to watch the updated version here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QHoKBuDP2pY.html

+tom713 Hi Tom, thanks for the comment. As it happens I do quite a lot of this in the day job! The simple answer is, Yes, the UX6 will do the job well. I'm guessing the blind isn't overly large/ heavy (you might let me know the dimensions). Even if it is, when you pull the roller blind chain it doesn't exert loads of pressure in the way that pulling a curtain cord would. Important thing is to get a 6mm drill bit and use the right screws because as I said in the video, if the screws are too big the plug won't knot properly. Any more questions, let me know, and otherwise good luck with the job!

Thanks for the reply. Yeah just a standard recess. Blinds measure 134cm width and 106cm drop. Guessing if I mimic your 6mm drill bit and 4x50mm single thread woodscrews it should be fine?

tom713 Yes, that will do the job. The single thread screws work particularly well with the UX6. And don't forget, when the screw is all the way in you need to keep tightening it. It will feel a bit loose at first and then it will suddenly go tight. This is when you stop tightening as you know it's knotted properly behind the board. If you've got one, use a manual screwdriver for the last bit of tightening as you may over tighten it with an electric one.

alexander cogalito You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment!

I think you ginxed it - as it stopped working yesterday :) Jokes apart, thanks for the comment. It's getting old now though and I've been having lots of problems with it - frustrating as it's one thing I can't fix!

If you like to sell it to me I will deal with the problems.