Temporary tip if you don't want to peal or ruin your pads (unless you got replacements), I just try to pull open a gap in the front of the mouse (where the clicking issue is) just a little bit and then blow really hard into the mouse, banged it gently on the top, and the sides. It usually gets fixed XD if it happens again, I do it again and it gets fixed
just an FYI, once you pop the top off the mouse, you can stop there & move on to pulling the switch caps off. there is no point in pilling the secondary PCB's off, or even the scroll wheel housing. the left & right click are fully accessible without removing them. also, a pencil eraser works great in cleaning metal, just rub the metal like youre erasing pencil writing
UPDATE! Bought a new one, spent £60 on an ifixit kit, FULL Of optimism i managed to get to the part when you take the cover of the clicker and couldn’t figure out how to do it, upon putting back together with the aid of the fabulous pointed curved tweezers in the ifixit kit I put a hole in the ribbon cable to the side buttons. Always wanted a mouse for spare parts...
Thank you! I had the G502 lightspeed and it was a bit more complex to disassemble and the very small metal spring was a harder to put back in the switch but so far so good.
Someone mentioned that you could use an eraser instead of metal polish. I'm just here to confirm that it works this way (so far at least, I just finished the repair). Anyhow, thanks for the guide! It's so nice to be able to repair the mouse instead of buying a new one, and generating more electronic waste.
Yes an eraser is a good alternative if you don't have any metal polish lying around. What metal polish does is it shaves off the old dirty coating that has built up thus making it look "polished" & new. It also applies a protective coating to make it last a tad longer
Thank you very much for your content. It was very well detailed and helpful. I managed to repair my G502SE Hero mouse and now works perfectly. The only difference from your instructions is that instead of polish, I used a thin strip of 1000 grit sand paper. All the best to you!
Polish is a better option though because sandpaper can remove part of the copper plating on the contacts and they will corrode faster next time around. Of course 1000 grit is pretty fine but still, metal polish is the safer option.
Thanks for the video. This has been immensely helpful, but rather than cleaning the internals of the OMRON switches I opted to replace them with KAILH GM 8.0. Really love the size, feel, and layout of the G502 Hero - it's just sad that the OMRON switches inside it crap out and has really dismal lifespan.
Thank you, your video helped me fix my mouse. I did not want to search and get hold of new slide pads so what I did different was, using your pictures as a guide, I pressed on the pads to locate the screw holes, then with a small jewelers Phillips head driver I pushed the driver through the pad creating a small hole. The driver was able to undo the screws leaving them located inside the pads. I fixed the mouse and put it back together. There are four small holes in the pads that do not effect the form or function. Thanks again.
I think my mouse is fixed! After a few hours of using it it seems to make proper contact consistently. I was having a problem where the right click would not hold and would constantly loose contact. This method of cleaning it seems to have worked. I didn't have any metal polish. I just got a sturdy tissue and wiped down all the parts to clean it. (Dry, no water or anything) Then used a can of compressed air to lightly blow away any dust . It did take me a few tries to get back together. That little metal piece is tricky. I'm very happy I found this. I really did not have $50 to spend on a new mouse.
Why anyone would thumbs down is beyond me. this video was so helpful and I didn't even have the regular g502. I have the lightspeed and it takes alot more screws to remove but the video still helps massive. Thanks you so much. Saved me a new mouse because this is my favorite model ever.
If you are going to take apart a switch housing you might just replace it entirely if you have the tools (a top tier switch like a Kailh 8.0 is $2 usd)
best video I've ever seen to do this. I think in the future I'll seek out a better design but from what I've seen this appears to be the universal mouse clicker. Maybe this is just a great way to keep testing my patience and fine motor skills as I age though.
THIS HAS BEEN EXTREMELY HELPFULL, I had an issue where my left click wasn t working at all, but after doing the exact steps in the video, it started working again. The only trouble that I'm having is that that blue small lego like "chip" is not making the click sound anymore and the sensitivity of the click is very high, but, again, at least I have a functioning mouse again. Thank you so much for the instructions ! Bless you.
I hope that this answer can still help you even after 1 year. If you loose the clicking sound that means you haven’t reinstalled the copper contact correctly. You have to push the round part gently until it clicks on position. Once it does, you can hear the clicking if you try the screw driver test just like the video. That part is not well explained on the videos. Good luck
so I've followed the guide, there are some information missing.. you can use tooth paste instead of metal polish.. 🤷♂️ works like a charm, and fixed my scroll wheel issue also by self.. feeling like it's a new mouse 🖱.. 😁
Life saver!!! I got it working but that switch was driving me insane trying to figure out, I had to slow down your video to .5 and watch it about 5 times but got it clicking again! I expect this will prolly only keep working for a few months before it breaks again though so time to start looking for a new mouse.
Instead of another gaming mouse with likely same wrong switch in a wrong place get soldering equipment and replace those generic design China made 5V 100mA minimum for proper contact "wetting" craps with proper micro load specced switches using better design and contact materials. Anything else than D2F-01 is simply used way outside spec for it to keep working electrically. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v5BhECVlKJA.html
Thanks for the walkthrough! I spilled some water over my mouse and that caused some inconsistency with the clicking. I guess there was a little arcing between those two nodes. I assumed this due to a slight blueish discoloration. Didn't have the polish so I just applied some delicate abrasion to the nodes. It seems to have done the trick! SO glad I don't need to buy another!!!
b r o this is amazing, ive been fixing it by just lodging a piece of paper between the left click and the macro key, and i have to re adjust everytime its out of position. but this. this actually works thanks bro
this solved my problem. however instead of cleaning the copper plate I just slightly bent the curved part, was really annoying to get back in but it did the trick. also seeing the complete disassembly is good to know if I have future problems with the mouse 👍
Man, thanks a bunch. My mouse was not even a double clicking anymore, it was more like infinite clicks Did all the things that you showed us (and broke a few plastic things, but the mice is working fine i guess) and boom one click again Thanks a lot
@@ErrorGameManiac literally every single mouse on the planet has the screws underneath the Teflon/PTFE pads which are glued on because its a soft material that isn't possible to clip in or attach in basically any other fashion than an adhesive...
its tape, and with the right tool (not a screw driver) you can peel them off 2 or 3 times on a good mouse like a g502 without damaging the tape too much, if it gets dirty, rub some alcohol on it to clean it.
@@ErrorGameManiac if they didnt want people fixing it, they'd use clips and security bits or worse, glue. not generic philips head screws and reusable tape
Can't thank you enough disassembly of the wheel gave me hell and was unsuccessful to clean wheel bay Copper trigger was tricky to assemble it back but thanks to your demonstration my mouse became whole again :)
I bought a G502 lightspeed 10€ with this problem, i was going to change the switchs but found your video and fixed it with your method 😃 The copper parts in the switchs are a bit tricky to put back correctly.
Thank you thank you thank you!! Worked like a charm. Quick tip, I didn't realize I was gonna need polish until halfway into the video and my mouse already disassembled, so I just SUPER gently scraped both contact points with a Swiss army knife. May have halved my switches's lifespan, but hey, they were already not working, so good outcome I guess.
Hi, i have a problem with the scroll left button (in your video, it shows as a small square switch). Wondering if you have an idea which kind of switch I need to buy and replace it? Thank you
I own the wireless and wired versions. Issue appeared on both in under a year. Definitely not a rare occurrence. Strangely enough, I stopped using one of them for a couple months, went back to it, and now it's working fine atm. If the little springs are copper is this just an inevitability as the metal patinas?
I fixed the double-click problem of my G502's left click button by simply repeatedly shaking the mouse, banging the mouse onto my hand and hitting the left button a little bit harder than usual. Before I fixed it, roughly about 1/3 to 1/2 of my single clicks were double clicks, and now none of the single clicks are double clicks (after many many trials). Hence I'm certain that those actions I mentioned solved the problem.
Hi, I was about to spent another 60$ in a new mouse because of the double click dilema when I crossed with your video and decided to give it a try. Everything its pretty easy using the right tools, I ended up using an sanding paper grid P1000. Only thing that's a little bit more tricky is the cooper contacts are very fragile, I found easy to place them in the right position and then use a very small flat screw driver to push the round part up to is position. So far seems to be working properly. Thanks for sharing this with the community! Best regards, Tankias -EDIT After one month everything is still working as normal.
This fixed it! Thank you so much! To anyone about to do this, be careful taking the housing off of the switch (2:45). The plastic button will fall out when you remove the housing, and it is hard to find if you drop it on the floor.
How to fix it without disassembly: - Squeeze the buttons for about 10 seconds (real hard, tho careful not to break em) - shake it - bop it - twist it - shake it again - repeat squeeze - shake it again Problem solved (for about 9 months now) Edit: Works for Logitech G903 as well.
I took my mouse apart as you did and now you pull out metal polish which I don't have. Great to know I can put it back together without fixing anything. Edit: I tried cleaning it anyways without the polish and it works.
@@Richard-rk1ru rust gets on the surface of that thing, and you can either "brute force" it (squeeze it real hard, or give it some LONG and HARD presses) and you get the same result without disassembling it. Don't use enough force to break the plastic tho. This seems to work on the G502 proteus spectrum as well
My god this video helped me so much, my mouse was literally unusable before I watched this video, but when I fixed my mouse it worked perfectly! Thank you!
I did it! Thank you soooooooo much. Those springs are hell >_>. I ended up linking up the rear tab first, then pushed up the spring with a small pin instead of pulling against the spring like you did at 4:50.
Thanks for video! Made like you show, realy works. Mouse g502 SE, but inside everything is similar. Im very happy mouse now works like new without doubleclick!
Dude me and my friend did this , and we didn't break any part. We didn't know how to keep the copper thing back in there inside the switch , but we managed to do it and it was mess finding a perfect screwdriver for my screws which are below mouse skates , anyway i have to thank u for showing the parts and i have a functioning mouse again. Thank u ( once again )
I got one of them and got the same issue... thought about buying a new one in every case so I wanted to go with the Razer Basilitik V3... Its kind of the same model but other company.... does it have the same issues like the Logitech one?
Ul can you pls specify for us which tools did you use for opening the microswitches name pls 🙏 it would be very helpfull along with the link where to buy that from if you have any❤️ would be much appreciated.
How did you put the sliders? when I extracted them I left its glu plate. I don't know if is better to buy other sliders o use some kind of double glue plates
Thank you! I did every step from this video, it fixed my issues. Guys be careful with how you place that copper metal that clicks back on the switch because I partially broke the part (the part that hooks) of the switch behind the mouse wheel because I was too harsh (that one is smaller than the left and right switches and more frail!)
Hi, bit of a long shot but after accidentally overloading power my g502 hero needs a new component on the large pcb power arrives on. Components is marked u3. Do you have a schematic or know what this component is please.
hi my logitech g502 lightspeed got a problem.. the left click is holding after i click once.. so if i turned it off and back on it stops holding but if i click again it is holding the left click. sometimes it works normal but yesterday i couldnt use it cause of that problem.. can you help?
The right click snapped from first couple attempts but i have been trying on the left click for an hour now, it's just that the copper shape is easily changeable and idk how to get the correct shape of it again
I had trouble here as well. You have to lay it across like it is in the video so that it cannot move up or down, then press in the curved part and it should lock in.
After about a million hours of trying to put back together the little metal for the buttons, I managed to fit it all together. And amazingly it works, the annoying double click is gone xd
Trying to do this myself. I think I understand why they put suicide nets up in Chinese factories. If I had to do this shit every day assembling microswitches, I'd throw myself out a window gladly.
Man, it was hard to replace that little piece back! Almost 4h to reassemble everything just because of those two little pieces, like a patience test!!! One advice: if is just one switch that has problems, it's not necessary to open the other one. It's really difficult, guys. Mine is working good so far. Thanks for the tips
Guys, on video it's looks extremely easy to put metal thingy back to it's place, but on pratice it took me like 10 mintues just to realize how it should look in final form and another 10 minutes to achieve the goal. So be prepared. And i would advice you to have a replacment for switcher just in case. By the way i used C2H5OH instead of metal polish cream since i didn't had it and it worked fine.
Anyone know if the new g502 version which has 24k dpi uses the same click switches? Basically I wanna know if they fixed the problem or they just changed the sensor and nothing more.
Thank you so much! It saved my mouse! However I struggled as hell at @4:50 I didn't uderstand that you had to push the little curved part into a fitting as well... Took me 30 min of trying to figure it out.
Thanks for the detailed video, OMFG getting the metal contact plates back into place was a beotch! And only broke the plastic locking clip on the board for the the wire strap. Note I used my 10+ year old Ebay china in the meantime 🤔