I have another use for Soudal Adhesive Foam which you may not be aware of! When I installed chipboard flooring, 2400mm by 600mm sheets, I sprayed the foam on top of the joists. The joists are original, probably a hundred years old, a bit beaten up! I also used the foam in the tongue and groove of the chipboard flooring. I laid the chipboard on top of the expanding foam, which filled any gaps and also stuck the boards to the joists. The floor is now like a concrete floor to walk on, there is never a creek or movement in the floor. It is fantastic!! I used the Soudal Adhesive Foam to install 4” (100mm) Kingspan directly to the walls, then faced that off with plasterboards. I used the plastic dry lining double electric wall boxes, dug out the kingspan foam to make enough room and used the 75mm foil tape to damp proof it. Stuck it in with the foam, beautiful job! I could not get anyone to approve the design of sticking the 100mm kingspan directly to the wall and then sticking the plasterboard to the kingspan. “They all” said I should use the tried and tested method of creating a stud wall. Each kingspan sheet is also secured with mechanical fixings for fire safety... In one roof I used 4" kingspan between the joists. You must not push the kingspan against the felt/tiles, you must leave a couple of inches gap for ventilation between the kingspan and the tiles. The trick here is to cut up scrap pieces of kingspan, and then use the Soudal Adhesive Foam to stick these spacers to the joists. It works, because there's hardly any weight to the kingspan foam spacer, it will stick in place without falling off (usually) .... I installed several door frames, I used a combination of wood spacers, wedges, and soudal adhesive foam. Now here's a good tip for you. Use plenty of foam, and as it goes off it expands like a sponge cake rising in your wifes oven. Leave it until it is starting to Harden. While it's still slightly tacky and not completely hard, tap it in gently with the edge of a scrap piece of plasterboard. This is important because the edge of the plasterboard is just chalk and it will not stick to the foam! You compress It, and it makes a lovely surface of the foam, and the most important thing? What you are doing is you are compressing the foam together and you form a solid sheet of very hard stiff plastic out of the foam. This sheet of plastic will make your door frame absolutely solid and immovable.... There's another use which I haven't used myself but I saw a RU-vid video of a guy laying a self-leveling floor. At the boundaries he ran a bead of foam along to stop the liquid from travelling where he didn't want it to go. I thought it was a brilliant idea!
Good advice. Did all my bathrooms plasterboards and Kerdi boards with Screwfix no nonsense foam. I wet both sides and waited 10 min so the foam was almost cured. I also put schluter anchors on the walls I was tiling after. This is so much better than drywall adhesive. Great video with a lot of good tips!
Great video Charlie - really useful stuff. One thing I like about your channel is that you post videos when you have something useful to say, not because you always post a video every Monday at 6pm whether you have anything worthwhile to say or not - just to make money. Well done Charlie - keep up the good work!
You make it look so easy! - i have never failed to learn something when watching your videos! :-) thanks for sharing your knowledge, (and owning up when something didnt go right!)
Great video Charlie. Just finished a similar job using k18 plasterboard I got from one of your other vids. I was a little uneasy using foam on it's own when I discovered Damp Sam uses Drygrip Adhesive from Dryzone in addition. It's a little expensive but gives that feeling of working with drywall adhesive without any moisture or cold bridging & the added security of not just relying on foam. Another good tip I got elsewhere is using tile backer board as it has excellent moisture & thermal properties, great to have between your electrical back boxes & the wall, also excellent to use on your reveals.
My plasterer did and dabbed my wall. It worked itself loose so I drilled tons of holes in the plasterboard pushed in the foam gun nozzle and pumped in the foam. Dried back nice and solid 👍
What bloody good timing Charlie👍🏼 I’m building a fitted wardrobe using an Ikea PAX cupboard and it’s going against an external cavity wall that I’m not 100% confident on it’s insulation performance so to ensure I don’t have any damp issues behind the new cupboard I’m installing some insulated plasterboard, which I was going to buy from SWIP after your recommendations ( technical guy Ian is a very good bloke!) but they wanted more for delivery than the materials cost so have gone elsewhere. I was going to use plasterboard adhesive but will keep my fingers crossed and use the foam format 👍🏼
A cavity wall construction should not have 'damp' issues on the internal skin...unless there is poor ventilation or some element of cold bridging. In my house, someone had drilled a small hole for the SKY cable to come through without thinking about cold bridging, a pattern of mold appeared along the airflow of cold air on the wall. Filled that hole, no more mold.
@@JohnnyMotel99 thanks Johnny. No damp as such, just a very cold wall that’s going to sit behind a new fitted wardrobe. Just want to ensure there’s definitely no issues behind the cupboard 6 months down the line
I started using expanding foam adhesive in my renovation about 6 months ago. Tried instastick for the most part but has some issues with non sticking. I have just found pink fill, it is pink grips version of drywall adhesive. Lay the sheet face down on the floor spray the foam wait 4 minutes until it turns stingy to the touch push up the board and away you go sets in a minute. However doesn't stick very well to walls as it is more than likely going to fall off it needs to turn sticky and stringy before it will stick vertically. It also has one of problem that it doesn't come in a gun form but instead comes with a plastic adaptor that converts it to gun form, it is a bit fiddly to attach but once it's on it fine. I may not be selling this product from this description but it will stick anything with such an adhesion it is truly unbelievable. If any of you have ever used pink grip or grip fill grab adhesive it's is as strong as them. It also last a long time you don't need alot of foam on a sheet I can hang 6-8 2.4x1.2m sheets with it.
Hi Charlie, Never thought of using expanding foam to fix plaster board I know there will be pros and cons, but the good out weigh the bad. The bonus is using it to fit plaster board but its use as and insulation, great advice catch you soon take care
I agonized about the structural soundness of sticking the 4" kingspan (foil both sides) to the wall and then again the plasterboard on the outside of it... I just didn't think it would be strong enough! So I cut a 2ft by 2ft square piece of kingspan and stuck it to the wall with the Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive. Leave it for an hour or so. Got one of the lads helping me to try and pull it off! Adam, a wiry young chap, strong! He struggled, cursed and swore! Got his feet against the wall and eventually pulled it off! I was impressed by how strong it was. I mulled over the issues, what was happening? When you dob & dab a normal plasterboard to the wall what are you doing? You are sticking a thin layer of chalk about half an inch thick with paper on each side to the wall! That's all it is! I realized that sticking the kingspan with Soudal Sticky Foam Adhesive was hardly any different from this from a strength point of view. In fact you could argue that the aluminium foil is stronger than paper... What do you think?
Yes at the end of the day it's only as strong as the bond between the foil or paper and the gypsum beneath. The day you shouldn't dot and dab foil backed plasterboard. I guess because the bond of the foil is less than it is for the normal version and when you look at tests on RU-vid people do with say grab adhesives and skirtings dishonest it takes a big chunk of plasterboard away when they pull it off which suggests the paper has a much better bond than the foil - which does make sense as the foil is very easy to peel off.
Good timing - I'm just playing around with plasterboard adhesive. I was under the impression you had to add mechanical fixings after the product had gone off for fire safety ... I recently did a sheet to compare to a plasterer who used adhesive and the amount of wasted space in a small property using spray adhesive makes it worth while. Charlie, what are your thoughts on using it for insulated boards (12.5+50mm combined with mechanical fixings) ? These are pretty hefty - but I'd like to get them as flush as possible.
Could you provide some advice relating to fire integrity? I thought with dot and dab plaster adhesive you were advised to do continuous runs at the edges of the room to stop fire travelling up behind the plasterboard. Is it advisable to use intumescent adhesive foam for edges?
I've used loads of this to renovate my house. It's great stuff. Demsun P96 is great and used 20+ bottles of it. The cheapest i've found as places like screwfix/toolstation charge double is discount trade supplies (DTS) and great CS from them too.
So I have a sandstone 200 year old property which has a cavity of about 15/20cm and was plasterboarded by previous owners. Horrendous in winter, with walls freezing to touch. Going to follow your steps with insulated plasterboard. Can I simply attach this to the existing plasterboard or do I need to frame and install it? Very confused with opinions online. Any help appreciated. Enjoy your videos Charlie.
Yeah it's definitely worth mentioning that if you use foam then building regs require a mechanical fixing as well. I'll still never go back to plasterboard adhesive though, it's such a slow, messy, back breaking product to use.
I think the fire regulations say that you need the mechanical Fixings in corridors and areas which are escape routes from a fire. However I bought a great big box of mechanical fixings ( bulk by a lot cheaper) so I used them everywhere in excess!
I was literally just foaming some insulation to my garage this evening and learned a decent amount, like waiting 5 mins for it to go off a bit otherwise it sags. I've always not liked the idea of dot and dab. Mainly as its a cold bridge and leaves a lot of void behind the plasterboard. This video was great. I'm insulating my bathroom soon and will 100% be using foam, this has just boosted my confidence. Thanks I was thinking about banging 4 masonry screws in each corner for fire resistance purposes? Not sure if its even worth the effort though. Are these foams fire resistant? Or at least non flammable ? I used a fire resistant one. Are they all non flammable by default ?
How does this compare to the hot glue you used for skirting before? Thank you for this video. I was dreading the mess when fitting insulated plasterboard. This looks way better.
The hot glue is like a Dremel - great to have up your sleeve for occasional use, but it's quirky and it's application is rather limited. It goes off very quickly and you wouldn't be able to use it for a job like this.
Do you think the Soudal plasterboard adhesive will be ok for sticking skirting boards on to plasterboard? I’m just finishing up installing our engineered wood flooring and it’s time to put the skirting boards back in. I mistakenly grabbed the plasterboard can instead of the standard PU adhesive 🤦♀️
Where do you get your insulated battens from please???? 5:04 I've never seen those before!! They would be amazing for the next stage of my house insulation!! I was going to buy a load of 2X4s but those insulated battens would be far better I think!!
Have a search for making your own - I recently saw a video where someone glued PIR to plywood sheets then cut them into batten sizes. Seems like a great idea!
I prefer the process of attaching the Kingspan (Foil both sides) first and then attaching the plasterboard to the kingspan. The plasterboard with the expanded foam backing already attached are difficult to handle, and difficult to get the joints exact, especially if you're up around the 4 inch (100mm) size... The main advantages of installing the kingspan first is that you can tape the joints with the aluminium tape. You can cut out runs in the expanded foam for cables, and you can cut out the locations for the drywall knockout boxes... Now you've got separate 12mm sheets of plasterboards to fit these are easy to cut (without any backing attached) you just Scribe along one side with a Stanley knife flip it a bit and it cracks along the joint then just cut the paper with the blade. Goes without saying, just make sure the plasterboard edges do not line up with any of the edges of the foil taped kingspan.. Put a piece of 4 by 2 along the bottom when you flip the plasterboard into place leaving two inch gap. This helps prevent any moisture being drawn up into the plasterboard from spills. This will be covered with the skirting board later. Stick the skirting board on with Soudal sticky foam. If you've forgotten any wires or the wife tells you she wants another socket somewhere, now is the time to stick a wire in there behind the skirting board. I also ran all my TV aerial cables through, and a cat 5 cable for the internet. I made all of the window reveals out of two inch Kingspan and plasterboards. Made a lovely job!
Wow, just about to fix some insulated tile backer boards to a masonary wall in my bathroom. After watching this my thoughts are expanding adhesive, then mechanical fixers (drill through once board fixed, push plugs through and then screw). This surface will be tiled. See any problems with the weight of tiles on the board pulling the spray adhesive? What is the strength vs normal powedered tile adhesive?
just finished insulating and boarding a victorian house no prep required, no battens, just stuck it to the wall, epicly useful product, imagine dot and dabing all your life only for this to come out 😹, in fairness tho, i would rather have bought my house in 1972 for a cheesburger and a handshake. but the rise of technology marches on, im patiently waiting for wireless caulk that gap fills your entire house, you could even get alexa to do it for you😆
I have used foam to stick plasterboard on previous projects and it worked well. I’m currently doing a bedroom where the old brickwork is all over the place. I did try foam but couldn’t get the board’s vertical. In the end it was either batten out of use plasterboard adhesive. Any thoughts in this situation. Enjoy your videos always great tips and content.
Thought you didn’t make enough of one of the biggest advantages of using foam over dot & dab. Draught proofing. My house was built in the 90’s with an insulated slab dabbed inside 4”block 4”cavity 4”block wall. Cavity was pumped in 2007. Made no difference to the heating bill, or the comfort. Took the skirting (which was held on with 100mm steel nails into the inner leaf) off to replace the flooring & used foam to attach the new skirting. Reduced our heating bill by about 30%. Hot air was draughting up in the void where the dot & dab cement was keeping the insulation off the block wall.
I like the foam stuff but plaster and drywall adhesive doesn't 'dry', it sets which is a simple way of saying it's a chemical reaction and the water is combined with the powder to become a different compound, so unless you make a complete mess of mixing it and use far too much water, there really shouldn't be much left to get trapped as moisture.
Yes that's true about plaster and plasterboard. The water content is actually chemically combined with the material. I think plasterboards are actually 20% water but they are not damp at all because the water is chemically combined. This is what makes plasterboard such a wonderful building material and practically fireproof because this water is released as the plasterboard is heated and and goes some way to suppressing the fire...
I got it wrong and stuck a sheet of plasterboard to the chimney breast. I'd miss measured and had to remove it... It was stuck on better than a DOB and dab plasterboard. I had a hell of a game getting it off...
it only degrades when exposed to UV light, and in applications such as shown in the video it obviously doesn't so will likely last forever. I recently had to remove a huge blob of expanding foam left under the bathtub by previous owners, done almost 15 years ago. And it took some elbow grease as it was hard as a rock.
Yes, but their effect will be mainly determined by what type of Insulated boards you get. They will list the U (W/mK) value for insulation rating and the sound will be in dB (decibels). Insulated boards of different types have different ratings. Another good thing to check is the fire rating for the boards.
No problems at all, I've just finished the upstairs floor of a 3 bed semi with 50mm foil backed PIR and 12.5mm board. I was sceptical at first but you wouldn't believe how well it bonds the heavy boards to the wall.
The only thing I'd say is you can't use driwall with foil backed boards. Not sure why but could be because the foil tears off too easily.. So I would have thought the same applies to foam.
@@Stormin_MikeIt's a weird one, non-standard construction steel frame house faced in brick. Outer brick skin with galvanised steel core plasterboards screwed into gaps in the steel stanchions, the old screws are virtually just a friction fit. I fixed with foam directly over the old boards, using long self drilling stainless screws to give a solid mechanical fixing into the steels.
Wouldn't some grab adhesive such as Sticks like solve a lot of these issues. No need to damp the area, instant stick, can make adjustments instantly. The turbo stuff is almost instant, and will very strong after 15mins. Maybe cost would be more of an issue though.
Another good tip when installing a new canister of foam to your gun, do it inside a black bin bag bin liner! You can occasionally have an accident and the connection doesn't get made properly and you get foam squirting out everywhere! If you do it inside a black bin bag there's less mist to clean up!
Terrible isn't it. I was told my thumbnails look washed out so it's a pathetic attempt to make them more interesting to try and bag a few more views. I tell you, being a creator is enough to actually make me insane 😉
You can't use expanding foam near electrical wiring. It will degrade the outer insulation of the wiring and cause potential issues with the integrity of the installation.
Really, so how come its recommended to seal penetrating wall holes for cables, and fill with fire rated foam ? The only issue would be in the cables current carrying rating.
Polyurethane expanding foam has no detrimental effects on pvc cable. You are thinking of polystyrene where a common plastiser will leach out and turn the pvc to the goo from whence it came.
Yes I agree with the others commenting.. you can use it on wires. My electrician uses it to secure the wires in the Chased out wall sections. He's a young guy not long out of college and knows all the latest rules and regs...
Good advice. Did all my bathrooms plasterboards and Kerdi boards with Screwfix no nonsense foam. I wet both sides and waited 10 min so the foam was almost cured. I also put schluter anchors on the walls I was tiling after. This is so much better than drywall adhesive. Great video with a lot of good tips!
