How To Fix Short Wires In An Electrical Box 

Couple little minor tips from an Electrician that has beenpulling wire for almost 40 years. #1) When you are taping wire on to pull anywhere (up a wall, in a pipe, etc...) Tape in the direction of the pull. What I mean is this: If pulling up or through a wall from an existing box, do not start in the box and tape out, start on the outside and tape back into the box or wall. That way there is 1 tape "edge" for any obstruction to catch and roll the tape off or into a bundle that can really screw up your day. Each wrap of tape overlays the prior wraps with the "edges" facing back and not forward. # 2) 99% of pulls like you are showing in this video do NOT need to be twisted. Cut the individual wires in each romex back in a staggered way leaving the grounds (or a stripped insulated wire if no ground on the old romex) long and do a TIGHT fold on each of them. Tape tight and your bundle is MUCH smaller and compact and in some cases will slide through old staples if the old romex is the cloth covered type. In 40 years of doing it this way I have never had wires pull apart in a wall fish if properly, tightly taped and not jerked HARD. Other than those two little things, this is a great tutorial for people. Most of these DYI videos concentrating on electrical work makes me cringe, the ones I have seen from you are generally spot on and only lacking in the minor details that only come from too many years of experience that make the job easier.

You are providing a valuable service for people like me, who are good with their hands and are able to do a lot of things, but don't always know the best practices when it comes to electrical. Thanks for doing this.

Be sure to test both sockets. I pulled a 20a out of a box and received a gift from a dual circuit socket. I found that it's a good habit and to test any and all old wires to make sure there isn't any current running through them. Back feeding is a thing, test all wires.

I love your videos. I just purchased a house and am doing little electrical fixes and your videos have saved me so much time and money. Thank you so very much!

Nice! I'm definitely going to use these tips from now on. Up to now I've been using the technique where you carefully deliver loud expletives, cursing the last person to work on the outlet, while making do with what little wire you have.

When my Grandpa, dad and uncles wired the 95-ish year old farmhouse I live in, he would hook up each device then have one of his sons pull the wire from the basement/crawlspace so there would be as little wire in each box as possible. He did this to save a few inches (which add up to feet) of copper wiring. Yes, he was cheap. Grew up in the depression. And, yes, it is a pain when I want to upgrade anything... especially since that 1959 Wire insulation crumbles when you work with it. Therefore, in some cases my only option is to pull new cable. On the bright side, I don’t mind the extra peace of mind or being able to give myself some slack. 🙂Thanks, Grandpa, for being frugal and for teaching me how for those instances I need your frugality and your attention to quality. And, thanks for teaching dad about electricity so he could teach me! Can’t wait to see you in heaven!

A couple of things 1 You should always snap the ears off of the outlet when using a blue Carling Box like this then the outlet will sit flushed with the box rather than bending the ears over and causing the cover not to sit right. 2 With the Carlin Box like this you can loosen the screws up pull the Box out and see if you can loosen the wire inside the wall to get more into the box. 3 You can always take a piece of yellow sheathing off of a peice of 12-2 romrx and slide it over the wires so you have some type of protection where the wires come into the Box.

I ran into this problem and used a Wago to add an extension. Lo and behold, this was your final option! Good to know I came up with a solution that is ok to use lol

Excellent video, thank you. This was the first problem I faced the very first time I attempted an electrical repair--replacing a switch in my parent's almost [sob] half a century ago. I'd never heard of pigtails or the NEC, backwiring and Wagos were not yet dreamt of, the Internet was beyond imagining, and what should have been a 15 minute triumph was more than half an hour of cursing and sweating (literally, this switch was outdoors on the screened in porch), and fervent prayers that I had not just cost my folks an expensive service call. So my very first fix was also the first time I came face to face with a nemesis I'm very much afraid I myself have been for others: The Last Guy. I eventually succeeded, yay, but this would have been a great help.

As I have run into this issue before, one other option is to remove the old work box and verify how the wiring was actually run, and if you can get any slack from either simply rerouting the cable, or possibly pulling a staple that might be binding it also. If not, then it does give you an idea of how much nmb sheath that you need to add onto it so that the plastic box grip isn't bearing on just the insulation of the wires by themselves. Like I said, I have run into this issue many times from homeowners doing their own electrical work... Great video!

For DIYers, check both the top and bottom outlets before working on an outlet. It can be a split circuit outlet with the top and bottom on different circuits. Rare, but it happens. I wired a garage like that once. Also, take a scrap insulation cover and slide it over the wires where they enter the box.

Excellent, clear, concise presentation. You are a great teacher!!!

Been watching several of your videos. I’ve done some electrical here and there, but I appreciate your videos as I learn a lot. Keep up the good work. Subscribed.

This is nice to know, Thank you. On a side note I used my ECX#1 yesterday to install an outlet. WOW, I am impressed on how it grips those screws.

Thanks for your videos! NO unnecessary foul language. Very informative 👏 👌 👍

You should always test for power in both upper and lower parts of the receptacle because both sides could be independently wired.

1 inch out of the box is often a luxury. In one of my houses every outlet in the house had a "homeowner special" done whereby the prior homeowner had snipped the ground wire as close to the back of the box as possible. Apparently he thought the ground wire was either useless or just had some vendetta against it. Was an absolute nightmare trying to get my hands in the back there to extend the grounds.

Thank you for this info! This is my biggest problem right now. Love your videos!

Thank you for the good advice. I'll be using option 3 on wiring. What a difference a video makes

Thank you, 3 great tips in 1 well planned video. We appreciate your help.

Great explanation. Exactly what I use, also. Wago is a little pricy but well worth the extra pennies.

Great video! I have been using the regular WAGO Connectors (so-to-speak) for about a year and they are perfect! Also, a few months ago; I purchased the "(WAGO Lever nut)" connectors and used them for the second time most recently and they are not only easy to use but effective, too!

I like to tape my Wago's closed and wrap around the outlet to cover the terminal screws. But Wago's are so nice and smaller than wire nuts. Great video.

Very good presentation. I had to replace a receptacle with short wires. Thanks for a good professional tip without all the goofy stuff so common with these.

Terrific explanation of this scenario. In a recent rehab situation I went the long road, and cut a channel in the drywall and installed a second junction box. Then was able to get correct length out of the original box and ran correct length to the new box. For sure the long road ! 😅

That is a remodel box which is easy to remove from the wall . Remove it then search the wiring path . You should have a staple within 9 to 12 inches from the box . Sometimes you can remove the staple and gain enough extra wire to get your 6 inches . If not , option 3 is the way to go …

Excellent teaching. Excellent editing. It is obvious you spent a lot of effort to make the video efficient learning for those of us watching. It also appears you are a born teacher. Thank you.

6:15 Pro tip: Begin by making sure the wires you're grafting onto are indeed the Hot, Neutral and Ground wires. Sometimes you'll find the white and black are reversed on switch legs in older homes.

I was hesitant to use wagos till i watched some of your videos and read the comments, many from electricians. What a game changer, so much faster and easier, especially in tight places. I’m just a homeowner who does many renos, but likes things done properly. I don’t want issues later on. Thanks for putting these videos out.

thank you for this! ive done it the first two ways in the past. no clue about the third way. thanks for the link. learn something new every day!

Fantastic! I was just trying to figure out what to do about this as I am redoing my kitchen and the numbnuts who wired this house, probably an owner builder, made every dang wire too short. This is especially hard to work with when replacing old sockets with a GFCI type outlet near the sink. took me half an hour to do it, but I know it wasn't to code so just as I was thinking about calling an electrician to figure it out, I saw this video. The Wago's are definitely the way to solve my problems as i replace all the sockets and covers throughout this 51 year old house. I did make sure all the wires in my box were proper according to my father in law who is a journeyman electrician. And all the sockets seem to be wired as needed, just really short wires.

Nice video ,I have come across so many short wire boxes in my time rebuilding old homes and moving bearing walls for additions that this video was close to my heart! Push in connectors like the Wago and modern connectors were nowhere to be found in the 70's and 80's ! So ,McGyverism was the rule of the day . Twisting ,soldering, using mechanical bugs ,and heavy duty electrical tape was the fix. It really sucked ,but rewiring totally would have been astronomical expense on some of these big jobs. Hard cement plaster with steel screen backing ,really fun stuff! Not! Push in connectors would of saved me tons of frustration and countless hours ! Big thumbs up .

From an electrician. Step 1......go with option 3. Step 2......go home. Don't forget to test ⚡BOTH ⚡outlets before starting.

Brilliant! I now know I need option 3! Whoo hoo I can hopefully fix the open outlet I left last year because short wires! Thank you.

Excellent demo. This is a common problem where I live (homes built in the early 50s).

That solves a big problem. Option 3. Without a whole lot of stress.

I bought a lifetime supply of WAGO's after discovering them. A total gamechanger. Instead of dodging electrical jobs of the past around the house...I'm actually seeking them out! Thanks for showing another use for them that I had not yet faced before. WAGOs are even way better than the push-in connectors...I trust them more to not slip/slide off when pushing the wires back into the box.

This is a beautifully done video! Bravo!

Those wire connectors are great! Thanks for the informative instructional video.

Really appreciate learning about Wagos, ECX screwdrivers, and commercial-grade receptacles from your channel. I have some old loose outlets to be replaced. Great tip about the short wires, I've seen one or two in this house.

Good video. One recommendation is to test that both outlets are dead, rare scenarios have left one outlet energized due to it being on a different circuit. I know that takes some serious monkeying but I’ve seen it demonstrated by an electrician so just a good safety step to check them both. 👍🏻

Sound, proven advice…..and, amazingly simple.

Option 3 for me in most cases in my older home. Thanks for the video.

Another option that is sometimes possible is to put a second outlet or maybe even a switch between where the run comes from and the box you are working on is, this way all you have to do is make a run between the two boxes. It sure beats running all the way back to the service panel.

I was an apprentice electrician 45 years ago. I was trusted to do the second fix on a council housing development. I cut a few cables too short and over compensated by pulling them through a bit too forcefully with my pliers. All good until they failed the final circuit test. I gave up sparking to become a fireman, it seemed appropriate.

Those WAGOs are a beautiful thing. I just learned about them several months ago.

Option 3 is my go-to method. It saves a lot of time.

When faced with this problem on outlets that are in the usual position of about 16 inches off the floor, I have cut a hole above the old box and installed a new one to gain the necessary wire. Of course, this means you have to patch the drywall. But this might not be a big deal if you are doing a renovation anyway. But the intended use of the outlet needs to be taken into consideration. In my case, a space heater was regularly plugged in, so pig tailing some wire extensions did not seem wise. In your example, the position on the wall and the wood paneling gave you few options.

Another option would be to remove that box and check for a reachable staple that you can then pull more wire through the box.

Thank you very much for sharing this. I'll be getting some of these soon. Found them on Amazon but hopefully local hardware stores sell them.

Great tips! My son has the same issue in his older home. Many will make their comments, Especially Electrical savvy people, but Most people don't want to spend alot of time solving this issue; just get it done, in a Quick safe manner, # 3 and be done with it, and go Fishing, or get instant ," Wife Points" .

I got rid of baseboard heat in our 1958 house. I was going to remove all the old cable and found the local code had it stapled every two feet! So it's still there.😃

On an old-work box like that, you could've also pretty easily pulled the box forward to see if additional cable could be pulled forward. After all, when they installed that box, they had to get that cable into the box, then push the box into the wall, so there's probably slack behind that box.

Great video. I also learned how you are supposed to knock out the tab in the old work box!

Very helpful. In my days never had these options

I've found old Knob and Tube wiring with the splices soldered, 100 years later it was still good

Great video, and a very common problem. I just started using the WAGO connectors and I love them. Thanks for sharing this useful hint.

I love Wago or Degson or iDeal for strong connections. I first used iDeal for replacing Ballasts in Fluorescent fixtures. Especially when you are standing on a 30’ ladder. Great video

learning electrical code and about WAGO connectors was helpful. thanks!

You could also use Wago 221-2411 splice connector, although not a big deal, it would eliminate the u-turn on the pigtail. When using an old work plastic box, you can break off the receptacle mounting ears for a better fit.

Just had something similar where I replaced w/ a deeper larger volume box and jumpers/extensions and used 2-hole connectors like you showed. The push-ins are awesome, but the lever-typre are even easier IMO, just hard to find at most home centers - and more expensive. I may never use wire nuts again. :) They are invaluable when connecting most new lighting fixtures, where you get a crappy little piece of stranded & need to connect to a larger ga. Romex. I tin the stranded first and the rest is gravy. Don't know about code, but it keeps the stranded stiff enough to properly seat in the push-in types. Where have they been all of my life? ;)

You're the best. Used your v. to resolve my issue. Wago is the best.

Thanks fir this great idea , safety and right way per code .

Option 4: The wires are so short, or had to be made short due to melting from a failed or improperly installed outlet, that you can't even do option 3. Either move the outlet box in the direction the wire is coming from, or add a junction box in that direction where you can connect as much wire as you need to feed the outlet. Much more of a pain, because you need to cut holes in the wall, and patch if you're moving rather than adding a new box.

Very good video for DIY'ers. If you're going to install extensions to the old wires, I would also recommend using pliers to pry the plastic clamp enough to slide about 2 inches of cable sheathing between the old wires and the plastic tab to prevent wear on the insulation of the old wires, thus making it safer.

Brings back so many memories!!!!!

Very good video DIY homeowners. From watching similar videos there is usually comments like "make sure that the POWER IS OFF." Of course having the power off is very important but if someone doesn't know to do that already they shouldn't be attempting to do their own electrical work.

For twist on wire nuts I use a style where the cap unscrews from the insert. The insert is made of metal with a screw which can be tightened to hold the attaching wires together tightly. Then just screw the cap back on to protect them. This style is usually black and made of bakelite type epoxy. This type is far less likely to come off.

Great video. I have used wire nuts in this position before but those wago connectors are so much better to use

Great tips. Gonna save this video for the next time I need to open up an outlet.

I live in a condo so options 1 & 2 would not work for me. You made the option 3 so easy to follow! Thank you so much for this video. 👍👍

I’ve struggled with this for years, wires were pulled tight (think guitar string tight)and cut short in my house. Bakelite boxes as well. I’m sure they save $5 in building the house by doing this. Plus it had a Federal Pacific breaker box with no main breaker, a real joy to do any electrical work

I just solder new wires to the old along with an approved shrink tubing cover. It's simple, easy and lasts forever!

With older wire I usually use a small piece of emery cloth (sand paper works too) to "sand" the end of the wire to make sure the contact is clean.

I'd recommend the Ideal Spliceline connectors for this vs. the Wago. I always keep a dozen or so in my bag for this exact problem.

You can also insert a (solid) wire in a Wago connector without opening it first, it is mentioned in their datasheet.

I've relocated the box a few inches in the direction the wire is coming from before, then patched. Not usually an option for aesthetic reasons.

I don't work in residential but I love wago's. They are UL listed, work great and therefore ok with me. It's a great product and I especially like the ones with the release lever.

Good option.. I learned something today. Thank You

Great explanation video. Although an open wall would be good to show here. Option 2 is clever, but probably a waste of time. I can’t remember ever opening walls and finding wiring that’s not stapled. It wouldn’t pass, and almost all houses were inspected when built. The reason option 1 works is that a short loop is left between box and first staple for this exact reason.

The 3 inch and 6 inch requirements in the video are located in the 2020 NEC at 300.14 The 1/4 inch requirement is in 314.17(B)(2). Don't forget to torque the screws NEC 110.14(D)

Your opinions which you have recommended are excellent tutorial. You can select which option would fit 👍

Extremely well explained. Good repetitive teaching technique. Well done.

I noticed that an "old work" box was used in the video. When installing a receptacle in this type of box, the ears, or tabs, of the receptacle should be removed so the receptacle will fit within the confines of the box tabs providing for a more flush installation before installing the cover plate. Great video!

Thank you for posting this helpful video

Those wire connectors/splices are fantastic! I learned about them recently when an electrician and helper came to add an outlet in the AC closet for an AC Plenum device that's mounted in the attic by tapping into a bathroom GFCI outlet across the hall. The brand the helper used is different than yours and doesn't have the clips, but he left one 4-wire connector/splice with me in case I needed it for the bathroom remodel. I found a package of what looks like his same brand at Home Depot and bought it because they're so much easier to use than wire nuts. I was thinking that this is what you'd use, but I watched in case it was different. I can see where the clip kind could be beneficial, but I didn't see or know about that kind then. Thanks for the video!

Option 2B... Try and drop the box and see if theres any slack behind it. Once in a while, you'll see a wire drop from above, but hit the bottom of the box. A simple rotation of the box could free up 3 inches...

I think there's a fourth option if one is doing the work either in a garage/workshop or if the "fix" will be hidden. The option I'm thinking about is determine which direction the wires are coming from in the wall and then to instal a junction box further upstream from the wall plugs so one has sufficient wires in the junction box to meet code. Then run new wires from the junction box to the old plug box. I put the junction box lower down on the wall and only had to fish the wires a short distance.

The last one is used on light towers they are awesome thanks great video

Very helpful, very informative. Thanks.

When using an “old work” box, don’t forget to snap the plaster ears off the receptacle. This allows the receptacle to properly seat into the box creating a flush surface for the cover plate.

Maybe a word of caution to the viewer (since they may not have a lot of experience or knowledge: when "up-grading" from a 15 amp to a 20 amp receptacle, first be sure that you have 12 ga wire ALL the way back to the breaker panel and a 20 amp circuit breaker. If not, someone may try to use a 20 amp appliance and either keep blowing the breaker, or worse, overload the wire and start a fire.

Thanks so much. Live in an older home and was wondering what the acceptable (and safe) solution to these situations was.

*OPTION 3 WAS IN THIS CASE THE CORRECT OPTION, WELL DONE DOC!* 😉

I myself prefer the back wire method you mentioned. I got a double wide in 2017 that was made in 1996. First thing I did was replace every outlet as they were all back wired with the old style that you merely push the wire in. I used the back wire method you mentioned and so far haven't had a single issue with any outlet.

Great informative video but if I could offer a tip, you should always check the tightness of the unused hot and neutral screws on the receptacle.

Although option 3 will be anathema to the perfectionist, Wago 221's will save so much time for everyone else!

Very thorough, nice video.

WAGO also do an inline lever connector like this which can be better for extending depending on the space you have. In Europe no one uses wire nuts because connectors like that are not code compliant these days.

Very good video and the use of excellent Wago connectors is becoming more common in UK and Europe. However, one small observation is that the European (and UK standards) would insist on the addition of green/yellow insulated sleeving of the bare ground (earth) wire to stop the chance of shorting to the hot (live) or neutral terminals after fixing the fitting to the wall.