Do I have to have a junction box to splice wires? 

Hes also a risk taker for using a no contact voltage tester to determine if the circuit is hot.

@@RadioRich100 Most people including most of the mom electricians in our large maintenance shop know how to properly yes one. Only safe way is to test on a know live circuit to verify that it works then test the circuit that will be worked on then retest it on a know. circuit. Even when I did all that I would take the suppository denerhised wire and short it to ground. Rather have a burn mark on a box then a dead electrician.

@@JohnThomas-lq5qp Do you ever read your messages before you post them? Lol

Hahaha! My first thought too was about the open drain!!

I noticed the open drain plug too, lol!

Thank YOU for watching ... and the extra thanks!😊😊

There sketchy because you must be sketchy. Don't make stuff up to try to appear smart. Nobody with any knowledge knows smart is not in your area of expertolise.

@@nothankyou5524 What a massive overreaction.

Glad to hear ... and I really appreciate your real-world-use input Jim!!

Glad it was helpful!

I would be careful using this in the kitchen because of the wattage we use appliances like toasters , microwaves that have a high current draw. Remember this device makes its connection via small contact area not under a screw terminal .

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Can we sue when it fails?

You can also remove the catch, so not the end of the world.

Keep the toilet seat covered too. A new bar of soap can just slip off and go in during a flush. Weeks later it still refuses to dissolve, plunge, or snake away. Only water passes.

Haha yup! First step in bathroom work, block off the drain.

Thanks for the kind comment, Eric!

Thanks Kevin!

Thanks and glad to have you!

it still needs an access cover so you might as well use a proper old construction splice box and flat paintable cover

As you're staring at the burning embers of what was once your home, you'll wish you had an 'ugly' junction box.

None of what you've said is factual if used correctly. Besides, who's trusting you over the NEC?

not so easy if the wire has been stapled beside the box and any floor transition

​@@davebrown6552 Leave the old Wire there and run a new one next to it.

@@KevinWta here is my problem with that. assuming you can find a way to chase the new wire, if it not going to be stapled outside the box and between floors then it would not be to code, if it considered safe anyway then the staples required by code are unnecessary. and leaving them out could have enabled using the old wire to pull the new. and it leaves all the old crap behind. I once lived in an old Victorian house in the uk that had been converted to flats and then back again it had 147 fuses (mostly no longer connected with some that dated back over a century), fabric wrapped wires (definitely no longer connected. and an electric servant call system The electrician that rewired the house for us replaced all the crap with two 8 fuse consumer units with some spaces left.

@@davebrown6552 Staples are only required for new work. As long as the sheetrock is up you can fish wire in the wall without putting staples,

@@KevinWta I know, it is just the stupidity of them that annoys me. I understand the idea of keeping wire out of the way of the sheet rock installation but making them out of steel instead of something that will easily break away during fishing is dumb, just some masking tape would keep wire in place for closing but would not interfere if the wire needed replacing later if it was damaged too short to move a box or needed a different wire type. size or number of conductors.

Good call out Jason. Typically you would have to have the connection in a box and it be accessible, these are the exception, but these are only supposed be used for “repair,” not connecting new work. Thanks for the comment!

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I'll make a note of that I have plans of going into the electrical industry and becoming a licensed electrician and do contracted work here and the there Either for repairs otherwise new installation. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the Industry and other various tasks( services performed ) My ultimate goal is to get my contractors license and hopefully go into business for myself otherwise perform work in partnership with a company that shares the same views as me. Currently working at the local conservation corps here in my city As a form of community service (it's paid though) to give back to my city And keep it looking as nice as it can look even with as many eye sore spots that exist within it now.

@@jasonstricklin2602 sounds very rewarding. All the best to you in your pursuits, Jason.

It’s crap do not do this.

@@dominicbenecasa7893 he's trying to scare you. do it.

Bad idea

@@RadioRich100 Been that way for years with no issues. :shrug:

@@ADBBuild And hoping every day it stays that way?

You would've been better off burying a proper twisted splice in a metal box. I don't suggest this because it's not legal, but nonetheless vastly safer and better.

Good info, Jim. Thanks for all of that.

I'm guessing you probably live in Illinois. The reason you can't use romex and everything has to be in metal conduit is because of Unions! I think they mostly run your state!

@@rpsmith Yes, I live in a NW suburb of Chicago. My folks lived in Charlotte, NC and they had romex. I ran into a short in their house and it caused a lot of problems. They were using a freezer in the garage and it would pop the breaker, anytime, without warning. I ended up running a separate line for the freezer, because of this problem. Eventually, I found the problem, it was a shorted out night light. The problem with romex is, if you overload a line and it gets hot, there is nothing but the jacket of the wire and the outer covering to protect you from a fire. My dad’s home in Charlotte was built in 1985. In the attic was a bundle of romex cables on top of each other going all over the house. This scared me. Here in metal conduit, you have another layer to protect you. When you run power outside it has to be 1 foot below the ground in ridgid metal conduit (thicker than the regular metal conduit), whereas in Charlotte it’s just romex, do you know how it’s protected from a shovel accidentally breaking thru? Knowing both systems, I prefer metal conduit and metal boxes. They do metal conduit everywhere, it’s a matter of choice and paying for the difference. Most businesses in Charlotte are done in metal conduit. I looked into buying a home in Myrtle Beach and the metal conduit option was there if you wanted it. Plumbing has similar options today, copper versus plastic hot and cold water lines. Plastic drainage systems are common almost everywhere. Thanks….Jim

@@jimpie231 -- Approximately 90% of homes in the U.S. are wired with Romex and if it's installed properly it's entirely safe! And yes, some form of metal conduit is required for all business high voltage wiring throughout the U.S.. I think this post I found online from Bob Weiss mostly explains the conduit requirements in your part of the country: "Bending and installing conduit properly puts electrical work outside the skillset of the typical DIYer, creating more demand for (often unionized) professional electricians." While arguable safer, this requirement doubles or triples the cost of wiring a home in your area! Given a choice I think most new home buyers would choose Romex!

A box can be covered up and still be accessible. Accessible and readily accessible are two different things sir. Like you can make up a box and shove it up into an attic. It’s accessible. It may not be readily accessible but it’s accessible. If this guy made up this splice and buried it in the wall that’s another thing . That’s why anytime you do any type of work whether it be electrical , plumbing , hvac , or anything you always keep records , as builts , so that you will always know where anything and everything is. You can leave notes for any future workers that may follow your work. You can leave hand written notes inside panel covers that explain what you’ve done and where things are. Doing things like that sets professional electricians apart from half assed wannabes.

Thanks for watching, Ron!

Thanks for the update Brent!

Looks to me like this video just caused u a problem.

These connectors work perfectly until they don't. Corrosion will cause an intermittent connection or an overload will cause a fire.

@@tedmoss But wouldn’t that be true with any connection? In the situation where I used them, there was zero possibility of putting in surface access boxes. And its dry.

He removed wago connectors to use those? I would have just used the Wago connectors in a wagobox, faster, easier, cheaper and give a better wiring contact

I like your idea for the metal bracket, with strain relief at each end, makes a lot of sense. And I would think that even your garden variety crimped connector would be better than this thing, as there is virtually zero connection area. I would worry about this getting hot, and melting.

@@nunya3163 I think this is (at least partially) responsible for the AFCI requirement. Less contact area = more chance of arcing.

@@pyrotech7210 Less contact area = more chance of arcing = more chance of fire.

I'm actually amazed I can't find a better version of this with wagos or screw terminals. There is money to be made there.

Yes, I agree that a better splicing device could be designed, BUT, NEC 334.40(B) requires that said device be *Listed* to qualify under its exception to the requirement that a box be used for repairs such as this one. Sorry...

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching :-)

weird how all of you have the same story going around commenting on all videos about this...dozens of different commenters all with the exact same scare story about the mobile homes what are the odds...almost like electricians are a big racket!

@@cryengine_x I'm not an electrician and Ive never used or seen one of these before today. However I do agree with the above commenter and here's why; The contact being made with the conductor is extremely low. Look at the bite mark in the insulation when he crimps the 14 gauge wires into it. The amount of contact is exceptionally low and you have a total of 4 of those weak connections in a single circuit using one of these. Using 12 guage wire like in the actual ceiling install in the second part will likely give a significantly better connection however, now instead of having to support a 15 amp circuit, you're now asking for it to handle 20 amperes. If even one of those connections is weak it's a problem but remember, there's four. There's too many potential points of failure to be worth it. Now if they made something similar to this but with a beefier strain relief and a connector that made more contact that actually involved stripping the wire back like a wago connector I'd be in and say "cool, use it if you want". If you absolutely HAVE to use this device for whatever reason, please, please, PLEASE use it in combination with a combination AFCI breaker so if the connection ever breaks down and it starts arcing, it'll hopefully trip the breaker at least. It would also be best if this were only used on lighting circuits only that will never see more than 5-6 amps pulled through them. Running 2500w through this thing is just asking for trouble

@@cryengine_x Burn your house down, that's your choice. But if I see a bunch of PROFESSIONALS all saying the same thing. I would listen. Some of us take pride in our work and will do whatever it takes to make sure it's done right. Not the half ass lazy handyman way.

My bro and his wife had their double wide burn down and this was determined to be the cause. I am not an electrician and dont want to be one. If someone wants to use them, don’t complain if your house burns down

@@gopooalreadyplease5842 ok i wont. my dads cousins brother has over 50 of these in his walls and they all perform flawlessly.

Thank you for the supportive comment, John! Not a lot of love out there for these things.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Most of the NOT love is from people who have never used or even seen them, but somehow think they have an informed opinion.

@@pld8993 much appreciated, John!

Good info and idea, John. Thanks!

Do you think it would be better to solder the wire connections at the point where they are pinched.

@@danv2888 For at least the last 60 years NEC states that ground wires are not to be soldered due to on a high fault current solder could melt.

The one-time-use nature of these splice kits cannot be overstated. Similar to punchdown connectors and blocks for low voltage in telecom/Ethernet, these cannot create a reliable connection a second time, after disassembly and removing conductors. The first time the conductors are pushed in, the two blades of each connection point deform, enlarging the slot ever so slightly. If you haven't patched the hole yet it would be best to re-perform the splice with a new kit.

And dangerous, Almost as dangerous as wire nuts.

@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts are NOT dangerous, and have a tremendous track record. I have never had a failure in a lifetime of electrical work. As in most things, it all comes down to workmanship and conscientiousness.

@@paulmaxwell8851 Exactly the whole wire nut dangerous thing is an internet myth, actually much after and reliable than those other connectors. And what all these DIYer leave out if you have an electrical box with multiple Romex connectors and an outlet you don't have any room for anything but Wirenuts.

@@paulmaxwell8851 I don't know Paul, the dog walker says their dangerous, so it must be fact.

@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts work better than aluminum wire. I've used them for 68 years.

You are spot on! This type of splice in the auto industry is well known for causing fires. I hate them with a passion.

I can't believe you think you are more knowledgeable than the NEC. Trust you or trust the NEC. Yeah. I'm relying on you.

Do you honestly think because an organization has the backing of the Federal Government that it's credible? I've worked with both NEC and NFPA guys. Typical government idiots. @@nothankyou5524

explain then why every appliance now has aluminum wires being wire nutted together with copper house wires? Stoves, dishwashers, ceiling lights etc.

I seriously feel like a 6 lever Wago connector with a simple clip together box over it would be better than this, hahaha. It could be mounted on a metal strip with tabs to still have the pull out preventing strain relief.

Thanks for the positive comment! And I believe you're correct on that code.

I dropped a Tapcon Screw down my toilet flange two weeks ago, LOL, that's sage advice you are offering...

@@terryweisenberg396 Trust me Ive done it so many times. Most of the time i remember to pull the stopper but sometimes Im in a rush.

Thanks for the comment, Ed… I feel for you!

I second this assessment.

As long as it's UL listed, the 2017 version says it "shall be permitted." With that said, I would have to examine it quite critically (including checking the listing) before deciding whether to trust it.

it still needs an access cover so you might as well use a proper old construction splice box and flat paintable cover

wago's are 100% safe and exceed NEC and other electrical standards in every first world country. if you're still on the bandwagon of wire nut > wago then you're not keeping up with the evolution of the trade.

It is your duty to meet or *exceed* that code.

@@alexvega8026 Agreed. I'm not really any kind of Wago evangelist in particular, but if one actually does look this stuff up, they actually have been heavily tested and shown to reliably provide just as good contact (almost identical measured resistance) as wire nuts do, and being much easier to use correctly (and be sure you're _actually_ getting correct contact inside, since you can actually see it), they really do seem to be the better choice nowadays, not just for convenience but also from an objective electrical standpoint. It's understandable that people would be wary of a replacement for something that's served them for so long, but every once in a while new things actually can turn out to be genuinely better... I agree that insulation-displacement contacts (such as the device in this video) for this sort of thing do seem a bit dubious, really, but people shouldn't confuse Wagos with insulation-displacement contacts. They are _not_ the same thing at all, and Wagos actually are quite legitimate in how they go about things.

Seriously dangerous and a potential fire hazard. Do not use.

Dont use them!!

any code in the NEC warrants investigation into any NEC member's bank account. half of them are involved in companies that will exclusively benefit from 90% of the bullsh-t in the NEC

This component has been tested and listed by UL, not NEC.

@@pld8993 then it is not legal,has to be an approved wiring method according to NEC to be legal,I would not use them in a dog house.

Thanks for the support and extra info, Ray! It’s much appreciated 😊

This is an idiotic statement, those things are proven dangerous, plus this guy used a no contact tester to prove the circuit is off. Showing how dangerous he is doing electrical work.

Thanks, Joseph. Researching this, I've seen a lot of electricians on forums saying they just hide metal boxes in the walls. Seems like if someone used push connectors inside a metal box, then secured the cable clamps really good, that would be as good or better than these ... but these were legal and I hadn't seen a video on it, so I thought I'd do one myself.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY push connections are junk. Wire nuts are a much better connection.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY they still need to be accessed on behind wall applications so they are only good for wiring that is visible like in unfinished basements or attics otherwise use a box and cover for access codes

Stick to plumbing joseph ! These things are absolute GARBAGE !! Seen them BLACK from all the heat and arcing inside the shitty terminals the wire pinches into !!!!

As long as it's 'your' home. A lot of people think this way, then they sell their house. Pity the next owner.

I wouldn't trust it to carry much current.

@@bobcarrigan1742 those metal plates will cut through the insulation, And IDC always fail.

I have seen these arc/burn enough to kill the connection. The insulation melts some from heat traveling back from the contact failure. It was under a doublewide house trailer connecting receptacles on one side of living room to the other. I believe it happened after they plugged in a window AC.

Couldn't agree more. And if it cost a couple of dollars so be it. In the end you usually cover with a box and probably still not a great connection.

Well for one, that connection is accessible, and what he is doing in the video isn't

Years ago, when sinking a pump 400+ feet into a well, the wire splice was far beneath the water level. My cousin who was a lineman for Southwestern Bell used a special splicing kit with what amounted to liquid electrical tape, then surrounded the entire thing with a couple of rolls of regular electrical tape, pulled very, very tight. The well was poorly dug and never delivered the 350 gal per minute we were promised, but the pump never failed!

@@jasonstarr6419 Nor would it if it was in the wall of a house. Whew - 350 gal/min. ... you must have been irrigating and orchard!

the reason i read for no solder, is because the wire can get hot and melt the solder. Maybe since the pump and wire is submerged, the wire stays cool enough to never melt the solder? I'm trying to figure why solder and heat shrink is a no-go for wire splicing too

Thanks George!

Great idea Gary. If I can get my hands on another one of these, I might try to do some more extensive testing-- see if we can push it to failure.

I literally laughed out loud. ... Thanks for the comment :-)

I'd watch that video!

Great idea. Thanks for the suggestion.

I would also like to see some test data.

I agree

They have just as much contact area as a WAGO does.

Would you provide a link or reference for a screw terminal repair fitting? I have a modular and have just found my first open neutral in this type of connector, more to come I'm sure.

USA and EU as well looks like

That's classic! "Approved for China and Russia". I've been to both places, and you don't know how true that is.

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!

I hear ya!

The fact that you refer to it as "amp capability" is telling. SMH

@@DiffEQ The fact that you feel the need to dress down an amateur is telling.

The amp capability is not germane to the heat generated. Your asking meat heads about what you should be verifying yourself. Meat heads do as meat heads see, I guess. We got you. We got documentation from the NEC. Yours is the take I want to follow. Stick to what you know, if a nything.

The metal brackets provide the strain relief.

They actually do, David. It’s called a “tap” kit. But they’re really hard to find, because these connectors are really only allowed for “repairs.”

Not so cool when they catch fire.

Thanks for watching, Daniel.

Please increase your fire insurance.

I was hoping also that he did not reuse the practice connectors. I paused the video at 7:38 to read what was written on the connector. It stated "do not re terminate".

I was thinking the same thing, but it looks like he used the same one. But he tested with 14AWG and then did 12AWG, so likely not too much of an issue with spread as he went to a bigger wire. But that small contact, that thing will overheat if high amperage (more then 1) passes through that... I would NEVER put that thing in there, thats like getting a under counter pipe accordion and saying "i'm a plumber"... Do this right! Dont use these DIY junk that the home center sells..

Lots of opinions in the comments as to whether this is safe or not. These are used to splice sections of manufactured housing together (double-wides). But the NEC allows them to be used for repair as well, not for new work. They are getting hard to find, but I think they're still out there somewhere. It might be the C-word that has made them scarce, and not that they're being discontinued. It's been that way for a lot of electrical supplies, especially where I live. The BEST way to do it is definitely a true junction box. If it's in a decent spot, the junction box could be an outlet or light box. I've heard of lots of guys using metal boxes (handy box with a handy box cover plate---though PLEASE NOTE this is not legal) twist the wires really good with wire nuts, and put the good metal NM clamping connectors on each side of the box, then bury the box in the wall. In my opinion, that would probably be better than these connectors-- though I can't recommend it. ---If there were a short in the metal box, your breaker should trip before any damage could be done. Just my opinion. Thanks for the comment! - I guess RU-vid edited the above comment with a strikethrough

you could always run a new set of Romex sure its a pain in the ass but all the equipment you would need is a decent fish tape just start where the junction would be and snag one of the wires and run pull it out of one side replace that wire with your new Romex and then run the other wire backward (fish tape attaches at the receptacle/switch/box and pull on the wire to advance the tape to the junction where you then hook onto the new Romex before fishing it the rest of the way.) granted you may need a second person to feed if you're covering any amount of distance or crossing planes i.e. ceiling to wall or wall to perpendicular wall.

@CoolLake I have some still that I can sell you.

Although not code, I like plan B Dave Done right it will never fail. Make sure to ground metal junction box.

My HOme Depot search says none... and unavailable. I think I will pass.

Should be 20 Amps, Frank, since it takes up to 12 gauge wire. But I no longer have the documentation, so that's an assumption.

Crimps would be easier and safer than these, IDC is very un reliable.

U cant do that, and the connectors are dangerous.

@@RadioRich100 I agree with you, I was responding to this post - Luis Larrea I'd assume the idea was to work less too, if you're cutting gypsum, you're making a mess, you may as well throw in a box.

@@philcook9967 Its the lazy mans way out. Run a new cable back to where you can put a box in.

Hey, Kim, I will say yes in general ... but your local area might have different codes. From what I've been able to find, this device was originally designed to make connections in the walls of prefab homes, and would certainly be inaccessible after built. The splice you see me making in the video will be permanently patched over, so I feel very confident this will never be an issue--and I tend to second-guess everything. I hope this helps ... and thanks for watching!

Electrician here. Do not hide any splice anywhere that is not accessible. If that ever comes apart, you have exposed conductor that could cause a fire. These are garbage. Take a blank wallplate and paint it to match your wall or replace the run into existing boxes. Don't take shortcuts.

@@techdave05 truth never use these for any situation are they even ul listed? As an electrician I hate these

Against nec. Need box and access

I bought mine at Home Depot, Mike. But they've been very hard to find since then. Some think they're discontinued, but it could be a pandemic thing. I've seen them at some random online electrical retailers.

Sure. Leaving one empty shouldn’t make any difference.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY as long as supplied power source is labled so extra wire can not be energized ever

Here's a 3-way for adding a connection, Steve. This does have to be installed in an ACCESSIBLE location. "basements, attics, garages, suspended ceilings, etc., anywhere accessible" www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Penn-Union- Nmtk-142-122-Nm-B-Cbl-Tap-Kit/6075552?gclid=CjwKCAjwvNaYBhA3EiwACgndgmidFCny_x8yyhEp1wN6U2NFD_kHd8ug_aIvAFr8s-XE6TkVO4EpSBoCFCwQAvD_BwE

It took some hunting, William, but I found 3 wire w/ground: www.grainger.com/category/electrical/electrical-supplies/wire-connectors/non-metallic-cable-splice-kits

It would be even better to do the job right.

WAGO!

You mean "primitive"!

This is the kind of stuff they can only sell in DIY departments. Anyone who's seen a trade school from the inside at least once would get an heart attack just thinking about using them. One might say "Oh, it's just the outlet for my phone charger. No worries." Next person moves in, tumbler plugged in and that little box goes up in flames.

Would you provide a link or reference for a screw type repair kit please? I have a modular and just experienced my first open neutral in one of these connectors.

@@alf732 There are hundrets of products out there. A good start for a search would be "Splice kit" followed by the type of cable that needs fixing.

Ha ha. Great idea, Jeffrey, but in my case, there are many, many, tight staples, corners, and blocking that the wire travels through.

if properly installed the staples shouldn't allow that to happen, its not secured if you can slide the wire in it only supported