No aquatic stuff today guys but i thought id'e share it as many people have discovery td5's and this is a common fault and its quite easy to do and will save you a lot of money .
You can do worst like I did. I watched all those videos about 3 amigos, blown head gaskets and dropped cylinder liners and went and got a Disco 2 just so that I could relate to what they were talking about. ...needles to say, now I can!😓😓🤦♂️😅😅
It worked a treat, those lights have been a pain in the arse. I had already fitted a new shuttle valve solenoid and a rear wheel sensor as that’s what the diagnostic reader said. Well done, good fix
But is everything like the ABS and the Traction and Hill Descent Control works as they suppose to be? I ran into a different problem, just bought a D2 back in Dec, the Dash lights will goes off normally after start up, but the traction control and the ABS are not working at all.
Land Rover, Niiiiiice. Let's see.... A world class shrimp keeper, an ubber creative DIY bits and bops builder/creator for fish and shrimp tanks, an excellent RU-vidr with superb content, video and editing skills, a fancy Goldfish anesthesiologist and surgeon, a professional fisherman of some renown and now an expert mechanic.... is there ANYTHING you don't do well my friend??? :-) Oh, and BTW.... that WAS 100% pure silicone correct? Nothing but the best of course. Cheers ;-)
John Williams Can't guess the winning lotto numbers mate !! Growing up where I did John you had to put your hands to most things and help each other out. And that's what I like to do now is pass on what I've learned over the years to help out others
Well, thank you sir. That background reminds me a LOT of my father. There was nothing he couldn't do.... plumbing, electrical, carpentry, masonry and tile work, drywall, painting, paper-hanging working on cars (even changing the engine in his 1969 Dodge Monaco station wagon) and all kinds of other common sense stuff. Although giving it an honest go.... he couldn't seem to pick the correct lotto numbers either.... LOL. Unfortunately, I was too damn stubborn (or stupid) to learn much from him before he passed away thirty years ago. I pay for that now every day. Anyway.... thanks again for all you do Mark. We all appreciate it.
Hello,thanks for video. My Freelander 2.0 di 2000 model has got shuttle valve switch electrical failure. TC and ABS warning lighr showing. Can ı do your method on my car for this problem. Thank u.
Hi I’ve just done my wheel bearings and speed sensor and all I keep getting is the traction control keep kicking on and locking me up Will doing this stop the traction coming and stop it from locking me up at the wheels
Hi Mark! I know this post is several years old, but I got stuck with the 3 amigos on my 99 disco 2. Do you know if any other action is required to get the lights cleared-out, after bypassing the shuttle valve switch? I had the same initial code that you had, listing one of the wheel location sensors, and something about a fault at the shuttle valve switch. I used my existing shuttle valve switch to wire the bypass, and didn’t replace any sensors at the wheel. Do I also need to replace the sensor, or use my new shuttle valve switch to bypass, or clear any codes following the bypass, or should it automatically wipe them out after the bypass? Any info would be greatly helpful. Thanks in advance!
When putting shuttle valve together, the connector with 2 pins have a correct way to put into plastic bracket? When I was soldering the cables the connector with 2 pins came loose and I just cant remember the correct direction...
Spewing didn't work unfortunately.. I just bought the car and the guy said he disconnected the air suspension and they've been on since then so I'm back to square 1 very frustrating. Could be an expensive trip to auto shop now
Does the abs, hill decent and traction control all still work properly after doing this? Yes, I do have discovery td5 addiction. They’re a great old wagon👍👍
Didn't see a reply here. But he didn't change the circuit he still had earth and he tapped into the yellow green live sensored circuit. He only bypassed the 2 prong connector which looks like he left intact so is still connected but the bypass keeps the solid connection clean without error to trigger the faults. So if your abs sensors or speed sensors or hill decent has an issue those systems still work as designed. I've done the mod on one shuttle valve and one I didn't to compare. So without replacing the whole block this is a solid workaround. Or can rebuild the original connection and reflow it.
Hello good day. I have been checking the resistances in the ABS modulator, the values without pressing are 3,000 OHM, pressing one is 2,000 OHM and pressing both are 1,000 OHM, and then I have doubts Where is the missing 1,000 OHM resistor? Could it be that the black connector has a built-in resistor? If we bridge it according to the video, (ge / gn cable that goes from pin 6 of the BCU to pin 9 of the modulator), the BCU will receive a different signal from the one it has to receive since it will have 2 resistors in series and one in parallel, instead of 3 resistors in series. In this case the values would be without pressing 666 OHM, pressing one 500 OHM and pressing the two 1000 OHM. On the other hand, if we remove the negative to ground, we derive the sw / gr cable (which goes from the bcu (pin 3) to the modulator (pin 8)) to ground, which is not designed for this either. I think that any of the elements of the ABS, the TC or the Down Hill Assist will not work correctly if the Bypass is done like that. I think the right thing to do would be to connect the cables to the black connector and lay it down so that it fits in the hole and then bypass it. positive to yellow green wire and negative to gray black wire, not to the body.
Is it important that the right wire “as you look at it off the car” (with reference to your video) goes to the yellow and green? Or can either go for earth? Ta. I say this as this process didn’t work and now I’m trouble shooting 🤦🏻♂️
Hi again Mark. Please disregard my recent comment below. On close inspection today it appears that fix has been done. I should have looked more carefully but it's been so bloody hot here you cant even touch the car. With that in mind and the Christmas tree on the dash any suggestions? Cheers and Happy new year. Mark Perth Western Australia.
@@alexburnham7976 Im gonna try it this weekend but i had 3 fault codes: Pump 2 failure, left rear sensor, and shuttle valve failure. I replaced the shuttle valve and replaced the left rear abs sensor; lights are still on. Im gonna take it in to the shop tomorrow to see what codes are still there and take it to a gravely road to see if the abs will kick on and after doing this videos fix, i will do the same to confirm once again to see if abs works. If I do this fix, ABS still works, but lights are still on... Im pulling of the modulator, looking at the valves, cleaning them, and buying a machine to force bleed the ABS. IF NOTHING WORKS I WILL FIND A NEW ABS AND FILM MYSELF ACTUALLY DESTROYING THE ONE THAT IS CURRENTLY ON MY CAR
They are very prone to rust so get underneath and have a good look at the chassis, and under the bonnet at the top of the wheel arches under the abs block. 😀👍
I think I've answered my own question - appears to just bypass the circuit board inside the block?? Which explains why a new shuttle valve doesnt always fix the issue but a new block would.
The solder joints go dry on the pins that the little plug with two holes go onto, you can also shave the back off of them on the next layer of the block, and resolder for a neater fix
Oooo a V8 as well? Same as mine, funny that it's a small world mine developed the same thing. Gonna have to do this then and stop buying fish tanks lol.
