Thank you! I cut and crimped all 11 leads, taped and packed back under seat. Very good video. Note: to save time and frustration, you elect to use the un-damaged ground pin on the control module. Also, senates will not test unless car is actually running.
Thanks for sharing this video! I used what I learned from you to investigate and repair my connector in my expedition - and only had to splice one wire. Thank you!!
Nice fix aXe!! I like it factory as much as possible too! easy to trace down the wires. Enjoyed watching! have a good one and glad you got it fixed! Your tushy is glad too! LOL!!
Great explanation of what my problem is and how to fix it! Thanks! Looking forward to the next video you mentioned about the back up camera problem. I'm also having that issue.
I'm about to break down and finally fix it. My temporary fix is to set the park break and put it in reverse with the engine off. And then go around back and thump on the rear door above the camera looking through the rear glass until the monitor works properly again.
One of two things. Either the circuit draws more current than the connector pin was rated for. Or the connector pins have some manufacturing defect and they’re not making good contact when mated together. Either way it’s creates a hot spot there because a connection like that is higher resistance than the wire itself.
I have a 2010 F150 Platinum. The seat is not bolted down with torx bolts. Instead they are bolted down with 15mm bolts. Have not started the job yet but when I do if there's more different I will leave another comment advising of those differences.
You didn’t show what had to happen at the module where you attempted your temporary fix. Could you quickly explain what you had to do there? Loved your video as I have the same problem I’m looking to fixing it. Ford wants $1,100 to fix.
I had a mechanic friend work on this and he said it was done but it still doesnt work. It looks like he swapped the wires like you did but not sure if he put them in the same place. Is there a colored wiring diagram for the connector.
Thanks for the video. I'm in the same boat. Ford told me I need the control module and the pigtail connector for over $1,100. I only have one burnt out wire (one on the connector and one of the tabs on the module.) Just confirming you only worked on the harness and didn't replace the entire module?
Mine lights up but the heat does not seat up. I just spent 45 minutes looking underneath, where the actual module is supposed to be, the memory seat module is. I cannot even find the heated seat module! Any advice?
You left out the most important part. Excellent video except you didn’t tie the added ground wire to the other one. In other words yours will fail again unless you didn’t show it???? Other than that excellent video
The original only had one ground wire. The new replacement has two to handle the load. You left the second added wire loose. You have to splice the added ground wire in . That is the fix for the defect from the factory. It needs more Ground. Sure it will work like you have it for a while
Hey Axe, thanks for the video. That is likely my problem too... so what did you do about the messed up pins (that you soldered) on your heated seat module? Did you have to replace that too? Thanks for any info.
My driver seat warmer will stay on for about 30-60 seconds then the light turns off. The air still works and the passenger side both work. Would this still possibly be the issuer or would it be something else?
So if the drivers side heated seat isn’t working, the connector under the passenger seat is the one that will typically arc and burn out the connection?
@@SkylarHillShop yes. And recently we lost power to the drivers seat moving forward backward up down etc. I disconnected the negative battery cable and reconnected it and it started working again, but now this.
On my 2015 Ford lariat my driver side heated seat and the back of it starting not to work but the bottom did and now like a month later the back heats reallygood but now bottom of the seat don’t heats would with that be my problem. Thank you
It would be different than the issue I was having. But I would assume it's still a wiring issue. Possibly inside the seat itself? Or maybe the harness underneath of it. I would try moving the harness around and seeing if that changes anything.
Is that module called the “Teds” module? I have a 2003 Expedition Eddie Bauer that has the cooled and heated seats, Ford says it needs a new teds module but Ford doesn’t make them anymore so they couldn’t fix it. I’m wondering if this would be the same issue but the comments are all from newer Expeditions and F150’s.
What if my I'll say "original"even though it's been replaced connector is missing a wire connection. I believe it hold the place for the driver side. Can I just move one of the connectors I to that spot?
I replaced both of the wires going to the melted pins. At 13:00 you can see the other one that is stripped. That's where the other wire went. Sorry I didnt film all of it. Did you buy the motorcraft plug of aftermarket?
It's going to need some diagnostic work. I would start by checking to see if you have power and ground in and out of the switch. If so I would check to see if you're getting power and ground to the heating element in the seat
After a shop took seats out to change my carpet, my heated/cooled seats didnt work and ALL of the cig lighters stopped working (the way we charge phnes). Does anyone know if the cig light connections are below the seat as well? It can not be a coincidence.
Were both your driver and passenger seat warmer/coolers not working? My passenger works fine but my driver is doing exactly what yours did.curious if I have the same problem
@@thor777mx not yet but honestly it's my wife's car so I keep forgetting about it so I haven't tried anything yet. But with your comment reminding me of the issue, and now that it's getting damn cold, I think I'm gonna try something soon. I'll try to remember to let you know
@@crwnc1775 ya let me know! it is on my wife’s Explorer, I’ll probably peek under the passenger seat soon and see if the plug is melted, it just stopped working today.
So guess my plug on my 2016 Explorer is in my fuse box, pulled it and the pins weren’t melted. So I’m guessing it the heating element it’s self is the problem. That’s good because I guess you can’t but the plug it’s self for that year, you have to buy the whole wiring harness.
Mine actually already had two ground wires so I just connected them to the corresponding wires. I believe you were supposed to hook them together with the one original ground wire? I don't remember for sure the instruction sheet had details about it. Sorry I forgot exactly what I did.
I would guess the heating element has gone bad. You could unplug it at the driver's seat and check for voltage. I've never done it, but I'm sure a quick Google search would point you in the right direction.
