Hi Papa, resetting the ECM in this video, did fix the no start issue I was having. Swapping my battery, triggered something on the security side and disabled my ignition.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I have had my truck park for over 7months because of this issue. I did exactly what you did and truck started right up and accelerate like a champ! Can’t thank you enough 🙏🏼
Worked--- Thanks for sharing this information. I was getting ready to tow my 2012 Camry to the shop and thought I would give this a try. Car started and is running like a champ. Thanks!
After seeing this video, I was about to use the jumper, but first used m OBD2 tester and was able to reset with the "after battery installation" feature. So far so good for about four, five times. Will see what happens. I am about to take a 10-day ice fishing trip in Utah. Good thing the problem showed itself at home in California. According to the tester, I had to use the rear door switch to complete the work!!!! Thank you for posting and showing the possibility. The battery was changed about 10 days ago with no issues until today. As a retired mechanic, I found the new cars more reliable, yet more complicated to work on by non-trained mechanics. Requiring expensive diagnostic equipment.
Just worked on my 2012 Tacoma wouldn't start after I changed the spark plugs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Followed the instructions and it cranked up the second turn. thanks man!
Great video. I replace my battery two years ago on my 2013 Tacoma and thank God didn’t have any problems. Will keep your advice in mind for future events, you never know hehehe, blessings.
Still struggling to get my 2010 RAV4 after an engine swap. After 30 minutes of putting in the pin all my lights were still flashing and the engine didn't start. One note about the video, your OBD2 port is upside down in your truck. You DID jump pins 4 and 13, but in the video pin 13 is labeled 4, it's not an issue, it works. Thanks for the video!
While splicing wires into the harness behind the drivers side kick plate to instal a backup camera on a 2005 4cyl Tacoma, my truck would only start intermittently. It acted like the fuel pump was intermittently getting power. After watching countless videos and reading forum posts, I decided to try this fix. It seems to have corrected the problem. Apparently while messing with the plug and harness leading to the rear of the vehicle, I shorted out a fuel pump related circuit but did not blow a fuse or relay but effected the ECM.
Worked like a charm on my wife's 2012 corolla matrix -- thank you! She's wondering if the root cause has been fixed or if she might have to do this again in a parking lot somewhere someday.
@@BeerLeagueHockey I purchased a device (?)...I don't recall what it is called or where I put it (75 years old 😃) that you connect to pos. and neg. cables why swapping batteries. By doing this, all codes are retained and no issues with replacement. As I recall it was very inexpensive and saves much aggravation.
@greenjondear Hi Green, sorry for the long delay. My Tacoma was pretty basic, didn't even have intermittent wipers lol; I didn't think it would lock me out from switching the battery. Lesson learned
Beer League, I have a 2012 Toyota Sienna LE. I had a full tune up and it checked top to bottom before our cross country move. About 1,000 miles in the battery light came on, no affect on performance but we stopped anyway. Checked battery with car on and off and no voltage change from the alternator. Drove to a shop and replaced alternator and got crank but no start. Threw crank shaft sensor code so we changed that too…no change, crank no start. After hours in a shop they conclude that it was the ECM. Bought a new one from Toyota at 1,800…replaced it and same thing. Crank no start. Now it throws a ECM doesn’t match VIN code. I tried the OBD jump to program the ECM and it is still doing the same thing? Should I keep trying this trick? Can you do it more than once without hurting the ECM or something else? I’m out of ideas and now have spent more on the fix then I owe on it…any ideas?
Luckily i was parked at Walmart and got a free battery under warranty. I reset the ECU and first attempt failed but second didnt. Not sure if its how close i held chip key or not. Im using spare/non chip key next to chip key. I also think its how you unlock the vehicle. Last start i used spare and it failed so i got out and unlocked with fob.
I recently changed my wiper switch stalk and headlight switch stalk on my 2017 Tundra. I disconnected the battery during the task. I had this exact symptom a week or two after. The next morning the truck started but idled terribly. I took it to a shop; they did an hour worth of diagnostics on the truck and found nothing wrong. But the truck, apparently, reset the ECM and idle circuit during the testing. Oh well; next time I will know what to do.
I have a 2000 tacoma, wonder if it is the same in my case? Truck have not been started about 5 years+got it new battery, all lights ok, cranks perfectly but it does not even attempst to start, got about 1 gallon of fresh gs, mixed maybe with old remanent of gas in the tank, oil looked ok in color and composition but of course I will change it all once it starts, will drain tank, pour new gas, got new spark plugs, filter is K&N, oil is synthetic, does not seems I got a bad starter, no engine light or code yet, have to wait for it to run to see if got an engine light pointing to something else but.....what am I missing???
Hi Rody, sorry for the delay in replying. At this point I don’t think trying this could hurt. I’d check to see if you’re getting fuel to the rails, i think there is a small bleeder screw or valve on the rail to help get rid of air etc from the line. If it doesn’t spit out gas, might be something with the fuel pump. Maybe a fuse or relay?
I’m not sure how often you check and respond, but I’ve got an 09 Pontiac vibe in the garage. I did an alternator replacement, it started up and ran about 10 minutes then shut off and act like it’s getting no fuel, would this be the thing to try?!
You probably disconnected the battery to replace the alternator, so it could be worth a shot. I think most fuel rails have a valve to bleed out air, you can check that too to make sure fuel pump is still delivering fuel too
What year Sequoia did it work on? Mine is a 2012 and we just replaced fuel pump because it cranks but just won’t start but replacing fuel pump didn’t fix the problem.
Hello Albrans, from my understanding most Toyota vehicles can use this method (Toyota, Lexus etc). Although I personally have only tried it on my old Tacoma, I haven’t had to try on my Tundra yet.
Hmmmm good info. I haven’t tried this yet. My problem with my 4th gen 4Runner with same motor as Tacoma, is turning the key to start & it keeps trying to start even though you let go of the key. To stop it from trying to start I have to turn the key to the off position. Thoughts?
Hi there Bdog. Sounds like it maybe a bad relay or the switch itself. Something is keeping that circuit open. Relay probably easiest to test, especially if there is another relay like it in the harness. Hope that helps
@@BeerLeagueHockey Yeah did the Relay swapping today, both the ignition type & fuel pump ones. No luck 😭 I’ll check fuel pressure next but I’m thinking it’s ignition related.
I have a 2006 RAV4 that has been acting strange. Sometimes when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens, no crank no nothing. I have to take the key out and try again untill it starts. The transponder on the key works fine because the security light turns off when I insert the key in the ignition. It does this periodically and out of no where. This problem started happening after the starter went bad and I had it changed. Any thoughts?
I will try to keep this short, lol. So my dash lights have flickered a few times (abs, trac off, vsc off, and brake). Yesterday I drove to the mall no problems but when I came out the car wouldn't start. Tried to get a jump, and it was dead dead. Went back in the mall for @1.5hrs and planned to take the bus home. But when I went to grab stuff from the car, I decided to try and it started on the 2nd try. It's had an oil change recently. Battery and alternator were checked about 2 months ago. No check engine light . Guy at NAPA said it's not throwing any error codes, and I know usually there's not any with the starter... but it's only got @109k miles on it, which seems really low for needing a replacement. So basically, I'm trying to figure out what's going on... did you think this technique could help? And what happens if it works, but then the key transponder doesn't work? Any input is much appreciated! This is for a 2007 Toyota Sequoia sr5
Hi Smitty, I wonder if you have a loose ground or battery terminal. Could explain the random stuff. The truck I had, didn't have a transponder in the key, is was a very basic model Tacoma, but would assume it flashes to match the computer after the reset. Sounds more like a wiring issue to me, electronics generally work or don't work, if you know what I mean. Hope that helps
Hi there, I need help. My 16 pin connector on a 1999 Camry only has 4 connections at pin locations 4, 5, 7, and 16. Do you know if I can do this same trick? Thanks!
Hi Alex, far as I know this worked on most Toyota based vehicles with an OBD II port. But your's does sound a little different. I'll check the interwebs and see if there is a different procedure for you
I have a 2010 5.7 tundra. A guy I guess jump it off and melted the fuel block. I replaced it. Checked all fuses and block and getting power but throwing codes for all the Coils which are getting same power. 5.3volts. Ideas? Think think is solution? This the ob port?
Hi Josh, not sure if this fix will work for you, since this usually help clear some sort of security blocking the ECM after it loses power. But if they melted some of the electronics, I'd start looking for a bad ground that may have been damaged.
Could I do this if my truck runs, but I’m having other problems like my door lock/ anti theft won’t work, clock is always at 1, just took it the the shop, they said my bcm probably needs replacing?? Very expensive. Wondering if this might work, just scared it might hurt my 4Runner. Any help appreciated
Hi Carrie, thank you for watching and posting a comment. Although, if you were to reset your ECM it wouldn’t really hurt anything, it just reprograms the computer that helps run your engine; I don’t think it would help in your case. If you’re in a crunch and need to replace your BCM (Body Control Module), there is always the option of picking one up at a salvage yard. Problem with that is, it could be just as bad as the one you are replacing, or might fail early etc, and maybe not much of a warranty. Be sure to disconnect your battery, before disconnecting any computers, to protect your car electronics. I hope this helps? Good luck
Thanks for responding ☺️ and thanks for the tip on getting one from salvage, I also found refurbished ones for quite a bit cheaper, the problem with that is that mechanics at a shop won’t touch refurbished parts 🤨 or put them in. Oh well guess if I spend the big bucks it will at least have a warranty. Cheers
That is true, shops won’t install those for you. If you have a friend who is good with cars, sweet talk them with a little beer and pizza and they might help you out ha ha. Good luck with your car!
Ive got an 03 toyota mr2 spyder it cranks but wont start its been doing it for about a week. The only catch is i did this it worked but only the first time i started it after the reset now it only starts when its been sitting for either a couple hours or overnight. What do i do now? The code its throwing on computer is something about not being able to communicate with host....any suggestions?
Hello Tomasnok, from what I found it seems to work on Toyota/Lexus for various models. I’m not a Toyota technician though, and performed this on my own vehicle, so I can’t say it couldn’t harm the vehicle. But as you saw in the video, it allowed my truck to start up fine. Hope that helps
i got a vibe which is toyota i wonder id this will work,or is this the same kind of reset as disconnect battery touch pos and neg wire together 5 minutes way?any info would appreciate
Not sure if it’s the same as the method you described, but should work on your Vibe. My understanding is that this will work in most Toyota based vehicles (Toyota\Lexus).
Hi Reuben, this should work on anything in the Toyota family, Lexus etc. I think there have been posts from Hilux owners, where it has worked for them as well.
I think it needs to show it flashing for it to work. Do you have bare wire for the jump wire? When I first tried it, the rubber covering wasn’t stripped far enough and didn’t make the connection
My Toyota matrix 2005 doesn't start one time,I have to start it like 3 to 4 times before it starts or i step on the accelerator holding it down before it starts...before the problem my mechanic only serviced the injectors, replaced airflow sensor,air cleaner and plugs but since then it's having difficulty of starting at one kick.. please help
So it's jumping 4 chassis ground with 13 discretionary. I've got a Tacoma with recent head unit replacement which somehow caused a no start issue. OBD2 scanners fail to get ECU info. New radio vehicle info screen states ODB communication error. Should I try this?
Hi Peter, sorry I was away camping and had no cell service. It could have triggered something if they disconnected power to the truck for that. If the pump is delivering fuel and it's getting spark, I would try this. It happened on mine for a battery swap, so a no power thing could cause this
Hi i have a 2004 toyota matrix won't start about for 7 months i change the battery, the fuel pump, the injectors, the mass air flow sensor i change the starter too and temperature sensor all the relays the throttle body. and the manifold too man i did everything now the OBD says has no errors codes, and is crank and crank but won't start..i will try your instructions i found your video recently i hope that can help me i am sad because i need my toyota in the road asap. I will let you know if it's runs after that thanks for your video
After reading the comments, I was hopeful this would work for my 2007 Highlander - originally no crank, no start. Happened before and after I did a few things (of which I can not now remember what I did) to override the security lock out in the parking lot of the mechanics while waiting for the part, it mysteriously worked. Tried to the 4/13 jump for 30 minutes - dash lights flashing, feeling good about what was happening. At 20 minutes, all but 2 dash lights went off. Turned off key, pulled jump, tried to start. No dash lights. No ability to lock/unlock doors with fob or key in lock. What happened?
@@BeerLeagueHockey this worked for me another time I had the same issue. the problem before was that the 30 minutes drained my already stressed battery. make sure to tell people that when you go to start it the first time after removing the clip that it really can be a rough/difficult start, to be persistent and maybe even pump the gas, which I never, ever do at start-up. thanks for posting!
Hi Deb, that is true, my idle was high and at times rough for a good few minutes after the first successful start. Think I let mine run for about 10 minutes, and idle came down and was running smoothly. Thanks for posting!
I am dealing with something similar, but not exactly same. 09 Camry... after some overheating issues, it parked and wouldn't start back up one day. Sat untouched for about 6 weeks or so. Got around to replacing the thermostat and radiator (rad leaked, but car would get real hot in like 5 minutes from cold start, so changed both parts). Had to remove battery to charge it. Put it back in and the car started and ran and drove fine - twice. The third time (same day), crank but no start. Had 3 codes. One was o2 sensor, but the others were two duplicates of the same code, p0606 ECM fault. Replaced the ECM with a used one, no start. Scanned it - no codes, and it passed diagnostic. Still no start though. I've found a few references to the immobilizer circuit and having to reprogram the key to the new ECM, but I've got no security light when I put the key in the ignition - and if the key needs reprogrammed, the security light should blink rapidly, as I understand it. Anyway... Think this procedure of yours might work for me? Is there a risk of damaging the replacement ECM this way? (same part number, came out of same model car with same engine and transmission) I'm on a very tight budget and can't afford to fry a computer and replace it again.
Hello arcane, I'm not a mechanic or anything, I found this and worked for me so I wanted to share. So I can't say for certain if it could or could not damage anything. I personally don't think it would, and I haven't had anyone comment that it made anything worse, but take that with a grain of salt. Hope that helps
@@BeerLeagueHockey I do appreciate the input. I tried it, but it didn't work for me. I did find another video that suggested almost exactly the same procedure, except for one part - at the very end, dude pulled the jumper out BEFORE turning the key off, then turned it off and back on to start it. And that video was specifically about my situation - an 09 Camry with a junkyard-replacement ECM. I haven't gotten around to trying it a second time though, and pulling the jumper while the key is still on. I had to yank the battery and throw it on an overnight charger because it was getting pretty low. Probably going to try again tomorrow. If that doesn't work, though, the car is going to have to go to a dealership... And that's just not in my budget right now. Really makes me wish I still had my first car - a 1978 Plymouth with no computer at all - not even a solid state ignition module. Mechanical distributor with vacuum advance, points, condenser and a ballast resistor. Easy to diagnose and cheap and easy to repair. Really starting to hate these newer cars.
So I have 05 Toyota Corolla, I replaced the ecm with one from the salvage yard. Before I replaced it the car had no crank no start and just lights. Now after replacing the ecm, it cranks but no start. A couple times it turned on for half a second then off. Should I do this to my car?
So I did it with the proper pin locations and it didn’t work, it’s cranking but no turn on. It almost wants to turn on but not fully. The fuel pump is working, I’ve checked all relays for starter and all the fuses as well. At this point I’m totally lost. Need help!
Do you get any fuel pump noise then no crank or no pump at all? I turn my switch on and don't hear a fuel pump as I should or as it used to be in older cars. When I turn the switch to the off position I do hear a noise somewhere in the underside of the truck.
Hi Rigo, it’s been awhile ago so unfortunately I don’t recall if it engaged the fuel pump or not. I no longer have the truck to test it either. Do you have a test light, test at the fuse panel, and maybe at the pump with the key on? See if it draws power. Tried looking online for an answer and didn’t come across one yet. I’ll let you know if I find something.
@@BeerLeagueHockey Yeah that's what I been doing too, looking for an answer. It's not my truck, it's my sister's but I had to pick it up and have it at my place. It's likely the fuel pump. I checked and it's not turning on when I open the switch!
@@BeerLeagueHockey Hhhhmmm! I'm not sure what plastic bed you are referring to, but to me it seems easier to drop the tank, it's just two metal straps holding it.
Hi will this works on 2021 Hilux ? My car crank only, and won’t start mechanic checks all fuses and all seem good. Can I do this and rest it ? Or can’t do it ? Thank you
@@BeerLeagueHockey thank you mate will try that tomorrow. So I start count the pins 1234 from the left side correct.? My vehicle right hand drive steering wheel. AU
I did it. bout Mind keep showing A/t oil temp. When the light come up the car will go off so I don't know Really problem yet can someone explain it to me here
Hi Juan, my understanding is that this should work on most Toyota/Lexus models with an OBD II port. So your Tundra should fall into that. Hope it works for you.
Hi Kuya, we don’t have the HiLux over here, but this seems a pretty common reset for Toyota’s. I checked some forums, looks like a 10 min battery disconnect will work on the Hi Lux too. Hope that helps, thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Hi Chill, not sure on that one, unless there is something tied into the transponder on the key. If your key has one, my Tacoma just had a non-chipped key
Hi Martin, not sure about that one. If you have to change the transponder code, typically you need to do that to a pair of keys, but unsure if that’s what you’re running into though
Whats problem if toyota hilux vigo only crank but cant start. What suppose to do? while drive,engine light was in meter dashbord,suddenly car stop and cannot move.try to fix but only crank,cant start.
Hi Christina, I have never swapped an ECM before, but I believe it may have to be reprogrammed to match your truck, even if it matches the year/model etc. Unless an actual mechanic who is reading the comments may know of a way to get it working?
So is this basically doing a ECM reset where it will also take Remove the Master Keys programmed into it. Is that what is happening here? Once you reset the ECM then it builds the Master keys back up...kinda like a factory reset.. is that what this is doing? If this is what this is doing.. then this is a great hack to know to reset the ECM to remove the master keys from its system.
Hi Saud, I’m not sure how this would affect the keys; the truck I did this on did not have a transponder in the key itself, but swapping the battery triggered some sort of lock out from restarting. So resetting through this process seemed to fix that. Would be interesting to know if it does reset the Master Key; if anyone has tried this and knows off hand.
@last2minutes587. Be cool to know this info. Haha. Thx @BeerLeagueHockey. For the video tips , I'm retrying now. And with 🎉 2010 Tacoma undrivable , hoping this works. Haven't drove over a month now . Weather has gotten miserable. Time to get outta the PNW. !
Mines the headlights and every interior lights up fine. And security flashes fine.. but car won't crank or start... and dash lights only turn on when I flick the thing to ON position :(
I left the car sitting for a few weeks maybe a month and the battery died.. I charged it even swap batteries and its still the same symptoms.. lights turn on manually when I want them on.. but it don't crank or start when I turn the key... I check the relays and fuses everything seem fine.. even tapped the starter lol
2012 Toyota corolla le got my alternator replaced then drove the vehicle about 3days notice leaking under my vehicle it was cooling never ran hot I guess that it was leaking for 2days before I saw it when all the water and cooling left out of the car try to crank it crank no start I know it's not my starter I had that checked and it's not my battery got a excellent battery what could it be
Is your car giving any codes or check engine light? Some auto parts places you can rent a scanner that will read that for you. I'd check your grounds as well, maybe something worked itself loose
Ha ha no worries, I had that happen to me when I didn't strip the rubber coating on my paper clip back far enough. Are you using just a metal clip or one with a coating?
Just got back from being out of town few days, stopped to get gas, turned off the car, noticed my radio wasn’t playing when it should, and car wouldn’t start anymore; i kept taking the key out/in, by the Grace of God it started, i turned it off, it wouldn’t start again; i filled a full tank of gas, was able to get car started, but gas indicator still showing empty, not full; got home, tried the key out again, engine immobilizer light flashes, very strange behavior....
Very weird. Sounds like maybe a weak battery or maybe a bad ground. Maybe some critters got under the hood while you’re away and got to a wire or two? I know that happened to my 240Z
@@BeerLeagueHockey i tried it and it worked 👍👍👍 pin 4 & 13 for 30 min with ignition on ! great info thank you for putting me on the right track ! this all started because i have a 3# mis fire on a 04 camry v6 3.0 & to get to coil and spark plugs on the back side of front wheel drive engine i had to remove the intake plenum ! i replaced sparkys and moved the suspect coil pack to the front of engine for easy access… long story short when i hooked battery back up it went into a crank no start and i was completely baffled ! before i found your video i torn top of engine downs 3 times checking for something i missed ! i even got into it with a ole buddy of mine that was an actual toyota mechanic for over ten years because he kept questioning my work & didn’t have anything to offer except “you must have missed something” instead of thinking out side the box …..after doing the research every toyota with a factory security system can have this problem and the same fix works for car& trucks for over a 20year period the fact that never dawned on him made me question his knowledge especially when all he had to offer was a smart mouth ….needless to say i think i know why he doesn’t work for toyota anymore 😆🤡!
Ha ha ha, I found out because I had just bought my wife a new, stronger battery for her Highlander. Then a month later, sadly we got rear ended and it totaled her car. So I was like, before they scrap it I’m snagging that bad boy for my truck. I swapped it and it wouldn’t start, and I was ooooooooh crap lol.
Yes I just installed used ECU after someone cross cables and burn out fuses and I have no start condition just crank I put on program mode just waiting the 30 min and see if works or need check for something out of computer can be wiring harness bad
Update no still doesn't wants runs I just take out spark plugs and are black and fouled on gas I don't know guys I'm gonna try with starter fluid and see if the injectors problem that keep throwing gas and the sparks doesn't fire
I have a WHOPPER of a problem! I'm racking my brain over this. Want to take a crack at it? It's a 2002 Rav4 (2.0L auto). Here's how it started: The wife took the car to the store on a rainy day. She says the car was going over puddles and getting splashed by other cars. The car made it to the store, but on the way back, it sputtered in the parking lot and seemed to almost coast. Then it regained power and nearly made it all the way home. While stopped at a traffic light, the car died for good. Here's what I know: The engine shows NO RPMS while cranking. The coil packs have +12V and ground (in RUN position) but there is NO TRIGGER PULSE to any of the 4 coil packs. The common leg of all the fuel injectors have +12V in RUN position. Coil packs are all new, plugs are new, fuel pump is new. Fuel pressure is confirmed good at the fuel rail. Crankshaft sensor is known good (swapped with a working 4Runner, which has the same sensor). CAM sensor was replaced with new one. No short on either the CAM or CRANK sensor wiring and one leg of both sensors is tied to ground. The input side of the crank sensor was traced back to the ECM and verified. The ECM was sent out for diagnosis and confirmed fully working (I don't know of they can confirm crank sensor input). Basically, everything seems ok, BUT THE CAR CRANKS AND WON'T START!
Wow, that is a doozy. Let me think on this one, but so far to me it sounds like water got into a connector. After a day or so, you would think that water would evaporate, which makes me think maybe a relay or fuse got hosed. Like I said, I’ll try and think on it, but from what you tested it’s kinda what my spidey senses are telling me. Although it looks like you’re getting 12 v everywhere though. This is a tough one
@@BeerLeagueHockey The car has been sitting for over a year now. I would think any trapped water would be gone by now, especially in dry climate Las Vegas. Anyway, I'm trying to get this car going for my daughter who has turned 18 and will be starting college soon.
Yeah I would say so, that it should be dried out long time ago if it sat that long. I usually work on older stuff where things are a little simpler. However the old school mindset, you only need fuel and you need fire to get it running. Sounds like you’re getting fuel all the way to the rail, so makes me think it’s not getting fire. I have a coworker who works on cars on the side; I’ll see what ideas he might have for you.
@@BeerLeagueHockey this is a 1+1 = 3 scenario because I can’t find anything wrong.. but it doesn’t start. A friend suggested I check the key FOB for security issue (the key does lock/unlock the car and reset the alarm when connecting the battery), but I doubt that would cause the original symptom of losing power (not a stall, just loss of power), then correcting itself and running for a few more miles before dying at a traffic light, never to run again. Besides, the fuse associated with anti theft is absent in the fuse box (not even a plug for a fuse exists), indicating that this feature isn’t installed.
I used to have an 04 Ranger, that had a horrible time with the Fuel Pump Inertia relay. Would just randomly cut off my fuel pump going down the road. After I sold it, I saw people getting around it just be removing the relay and using a jump wire with a fuse across the connector. But you’re getting fuel all through the system, which rules that out. Have you tried an exorcism on it yet? Ha ha. Waiting to hear back from my mechanic friend
Sorry to hear that this didn’t work for you Max. Have you tested the relay, and relay for the pump? On a side note, used to have a Ranger with a bad inertia switch that would shut my pump off all the time. Might be a place to look