Great videos! I want to do a color change on my '74 Mini and a repaint on my '97 Ford F350 crew cab dually. Your videos are spreading some good knowledge.
Love this video, question do you hit the panel with p2000 then 3k foam sanding disk, rotary wool pad and cutting compound, then I definitely swap over to my dual action to get rid of swirls from rotary, do I then use a cutting foam pad with the same cutting compound then light foam and polishing compound or skip doing the third use a light foam and polish? I know you could use a cutting foam and cut to finish but isn’t a polish for the last step recommended? Let me know thanks guys !
Absolutely loved this episode. Great instruction and technique. I have a lot of restoration-level detailing experience, and wanted to offer one thing. Being how far you visually took the car on the final step, consider trying some of the latest compounds and polishes. Clearly nothing wrong with what you used (and if you’re buying wholesale I understand). But I’ve flattened and polished a ton of panels using very modern products and have seen a huge difference with everything from cycle time on pads to even the final gloss level. While the per-oz price and availability in the UK might not be what it is for me in the US, I wanted to list a few to consider trying on your most special projects. And I’m not being a shill in any way: Lake Country and Griot’s IMO make incredibly-good pads. For rotary use consider the LC wool pad as it can have you bypassing the entire 3k-grit pad process. If your 2k sanding is dull, the above pad (and a particular compound I’ll share) can eliminate the 3k stage. For that first compounding/rotary stage, my favorite product is the Turtle Wax one-and-done compound. 3D ACA500 is another, but the TW product cuts just as well and is a bit cheaper. Both compounds never dust or dry-out. Long cycle time. Griot’s fast correction cream is another amazing product, but won’t cut well under 1,500 marks. Meguire’s M110 pro speed compound is another fantastic first-stage compound for wool, but does dust a lot. If you don’t care about the cleanup, consider this one as it is the cheapest of the bunch. Great pre-polish gloss levels. What I like doing as another step to getting panels super-flat actually adds a step in place of taking that 3k sanding step out: DA polishing with a microfiber pad and any above-named compound. Good amount of pressure and moderate speed really tightens-up the clarity. Meguire’s MF pads are available, affordable and work well, but LC/Griots are premium. If you really want to try something new and interesting, use a DA with the Lake Country purple wool/foam hybrid pad. It lays very low and opens wide, cutting so fast yet leaving an amazing finish. I’ve never used a pad that provided me more technique options; you can use coarse and fine compounds and make your speed and pressure the deciding factor on final results. It’s neat, but you probably don’t have the time to explore that. Lastly, my very favorite product as a final step polish is using Griot’s perfection cream with their own yellow pad on a DA. I cannot describe just how fine and enjoyable this polish is. It’s like 8k-grit sanding with zero haze. Even smells amazing. So while most of these pads and bottles are about $20/ea, I’d ask you to dabble into them when you’re looking to mix things up. They’re all very refined, effective, and take a great-looking project car into show-car territory without changing all the good work you’re doing. Take care, and thanks for all you’ve shared with us.
Generally question, how to paint small areas? Like smaller than a can of coke? Just having trouble with mixing the amount of paint needed… seems a waste mixing around 100ml for a few passes
so this is,how you get a glossy finish without using clear coat i took boot lid from old 80s car has no clear coat from factory so i wanted boot resprayed same way direct gloss machine buffed no clear garage look at me like im nuts?
I just painted my car with 2pak. I can sand or cut it until its flat , but it refuses to polish up. Im using polishing compound but it wont mirror finish. Stays dull. 🤔
Only thing is I think everyone who followed this job would love to see it finished as far as the build up is concerned. Any chance of getting the owner to shoot a video of it completed and you post it?
Beautiful job tony as always, was only the other day I was watching your video shooting that other mini with the w400. I love the g3 system too, wool head takes a lot of time out of the job. Look forward to the next one 🤙
Noice..😀 Love the work, but stop tormenting me with all these products and materials... I cant even get etching primer here... 😭 Sometimes they have paint filters, and if you are really lucky measuring cups. 1st world _3rd world... You gotta accept Paradise has its pitfalls.... :)
Hi I noticed you but body filler in some areas directly on to bear metal prior to epoxy primer as apposed to filler after epoxy primer is there a reason why you do this I am restoring a number of classic Mini doing all the metal work myself put sending out the paint work but want to try the prepped and painting myself so you’re videos are really helpful thanks Kind regards Murdo
Fantastic job, I have recently subscribed and working my way through your play lists and gaining so much knowledge so a massive thank you. I have just done the final prep on my mini ready for direct gloss and exactly as you have are doing the outer shell and the panels in and out , I know you did this mini a while ago but how much gloss did you use for the whole project? Thanks again for a fantastic channel👍😁
I'm painting some wheels in 2k single stage ( black) , would I need to flat a polish it like this? I wss hoping to get its glossy right out the gun , thst blue looks really glossy
Hi do you run into issues with pigtails when trizact? I usually use 1500 on DA, 3000 trizact on DA then G360 polish with woolhead. Recently have run into pigtails that take around 4-5 full passes to get out. any tips? I blow out all the dust from the 1500 stage aswell which does help but not fully. Thanks
@@TonysRefinishingTV thanks for the reply! I’ll keep that in mind next time I’m polishing. Don’t want to spend anymore time than I need to when it comes to polishing haha
Lol dry is great mate if you can nail the discs and the setup perfect but hence why I stick to the old school wet flatting takes a tad longer but no pig tail issues ect to deal with if one tint thing goes wrong
@@TonysRefinishingTV Yeah definitely years ago i was the same method that you're doing p2000 by hand or block, trizact then polish. Unfortunately with time constraints now on jobs DA is much quicker but can end up taking you longer! Great job on the MINI!
What a fantastic job you made of that car thanks for including the polishing stage. Would you recommend a wax polish as a final stage or maybe later when the car is cleaned for the first time.
You have OCD? I never would have guessed. ;) Stunning job as usual. I've seen you do several classic cars now and I know you put 110% into every job but would you say that maybe you put just a WEE bit more into a classic?
Awesome 👏 video Tony and thanks 🙏 for sharing all those parts with us I really enjoyed it and that G360 is really working haha 🤣 much love enjoy your evening and looking forward to see you next week please the lord 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙✊✊✊✊✊✊🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
quick questionTony. how long would you leave the paint before sanding down for polishing. if painting on a Monday afternoon using fast hardener say and no baking in a oven, just left to air dry over night basically would 2k gloss be hard enough to flat down the next day for polishing it would it need to be left into the second day to dry properly. thanks
If it was a standard two coats mate then yes next day should be fine but I’d probably leave it a few days if it was cold or you went three coats , the harder it is when you polish the less chance of dropping back
I'm weird I have to have peel in the finish things just look a bit odd when there perfectly glass flat. Just my ocd with having cars painted over the years😂😂😂
@@TonysRefinishingTV yeah i totally get it if its a repair it needs to match oem finish, the last car I had had painted we just literally nicked the very top of the peel off and that's it, so it almost looks like it hadn't been painted and just look like new if that makes sense 🥴
Fantastic video series Tony. This trade/business can be sometimes pain in the ass but it is one of few professions you can look back and see your work and say this was done by me.
Another great series Tony, really enjoyed this one. The end result was just amazing as always.... 👌 Just out of interest why did you use the Wool polishing head rather than the something like the bigfoot pads you often use.
@@TonysRefinishingTV mate my phone pings when you upload the only time I can't watch immediately is when I'm on top coat late shift so I watch when I get home keep turning out that awesome work 👏👏👏
How do you get rid of super fine micro scratches? These are only visible under bright strip led light. Annoying as my car has not long come back from painting....single stage paint? Great work btw...subscribed. 👍
If the polishing stage has been done correctly then after the initial cut shown here a da polisher should be used to refine the finish further , however you can be to picky as a rule if it doesn’t show in natural light or sunlight then your going to far doesn’t he rabbit hole tbh , I polish in the booth as it shows so much more than in natural light so if it looks right in there it’ll look mega outside
@@TonysRefinishingTV thanks Tony for the advice. I am fussy lol. What product and pad would you recommend to improve the finish? I do have a DA polisher. I've used Scholl S20 black in the past but even that struggles
Personally the rupes da yellow pad mate works a treat and use something like menzerna medium cut / polish can’t remember the number for it but that’s what it’s called
Hi Tony, an unrelated question this …. If you had a second hand wing with good paint but wrong colour(black)could you scuff and re- paint(Spirit Blue)without the original colour having any effect on the new colour like bleeding through ? ….. Cheers bud
so spirit blue like a dark colour under it tbh, but if the paints sound on the panel below then yes in theory if its a good covering colour it should be fine mate no need to fully prime
Good video Tony and a great way to finish what has been a fantastic series on the Mini which has turned out great and is probably the best looking Mini around. Good live chat last night mate and you seemed to have a good turn out again 👏👍
Thanks John and yes mate this has been a huge series tbh mate didn’t expect it to blow up like it did tbh and always great to have a full chat with you all on the premiere too
