UPDATES: There are two things that I have learned since posting this video that can make your focus even better. The first is that when you shoot on a tripod you should turn off your image stabilization, this is something I have never done but apparently if you leave the image stabilization on your camera "can" interpret your movement as camera movement and can slightly change the focus. The other thing that I have learned from the community is there is a big difference between a parfocal lens and a varifocal lens. I have used these same two focusing techniques for at least 20 years with every camera and lens set up that I have had and never had any trouble getting sharp focus, well sharp enough for me anyway. However after I posted this video I received a comment from @Scar saying the zoom technique only works with a parfocal lens, so I did some research and have found that indeed a varifocal lens changes the focus at different zoom lengths. Again I have used the zoom technique since it was taught to me in film school 20+ years ago and never had any trouble getting sharp enough focus so I don't know if the focus change is something that I have never noticed when I am creating my Light Painting Photography because I am shooting in the dark and moving so maybe my expectation of focus might be something different from say someone shooting sports. Point being to get even sharper focus If you are using a varifocal lens you want to frame your shot how you intend to shoot it (NOT ZOOM ALL THE WAY IN) then use the digital zoom focus assist, pull focus turn off the focus assist then shoot. I just wanted to share those two updates and say thank you the community for sharing your knowledge with me. I think that its great I can post a tutorial and then I end up learning from the community, I appreciate you guys. Thank you.
Guaranteed that your camera/lens manual stated that you should not use image stabilization when using a tripod. RTFM , and apply it's instructions before making an instructional video.
For focusing in the dark, you could also use a configured focus technique - on my camera, I invoke auto focus by pressing AF button at the back. Then I am set to frame my shot and the subject anyway I want and press the release button when ready. Here I do not enable the lens to Man mode. In addition use a small f-stop for longer depth of field hence giving a better chance for most area remaining in focus, and use a wide angle lens, such as 20 deg to cover much larger area in view...
Good video. I do some macro photography at night and I have my granddaughter use the light from her cell phone, so that I can focus on my subject matter, which has been Orb Weaver spiders and their web.
I tried to do a day/night exposure in one super long exposure. I think that one was toooooo long. A lot of grain in the image and it just didn't work, check out the VLOG here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cFnUdg2spbI.html
Thanks for a great video. As a beginner it was exceedingly frustrating trying to get the camera shutter to work when it was pitch black and now I know why. I just needed to set up a light target for the sensor to beam in on so to speak. Thanks again...
I think, if you use high Aperture numbers on wideangle lens (24 or 28mm) you have to focus just once and keep it through all the scene. Becouse of deep depth of field allow this. Thank you for the tutorial anyway, that helps people (counting me) find something new and useful!
as always it's straightforward and easy to follow . thank you for sharing your knowledge . i would love to see a tutorial explaining non flash light stencils (shooting through a stencil with subject behind it). many thanks -max hinz
Thanks Max, I am not sure I know what you mean by shooting through a stencil with subject behind it? Do you mean including a graphic element in your image using a stencil?
@@LightPaintingPhotography i mean if you set up it would go camera ,stencil ,model . I hear you focus on the stencil then light paint the model (not stencil) remove stencil refocus on the model and light paint all in one shoot .. i believe i heard it from kim coels /the krumble empire but i for get if it was from a vlog interview or if i was just chatting with them ..
The focus assist is just a digital zoom option that bring the subject closer so that you can more easily achieve sharp focus. The focus assist is usually represented on a camera with a magnifying glass symbol. I am not sure that all camera have this feature you will need to search to see if your exact camera has it.
Just started photography and am interested in light painting. What would you recommend as a good starter kit for a beginner? Brilliant work by the way. Thank you d@vid from the uk.
Use Any torch, get the universal adapter from rigu (light painting brushes) and you can use a plastic bottle or something similar to imitate a light wand👍 Very inexpensive and you can use the universal connector with more expensive kit too like the rgb critter from ants on a melon
Thank you! The exposure time just depends on the environment and the ambient light. If you are shooting outside with lots of ambient light you have less time to work. If you are in a studio with full control over the light you have more time to create your light painting!
Hi i am a csi student and we have to perfect our use of shutter speed, iso, and f number and i am having the hardest time memorizing, do you have any advice for me?
Shutter Speed or Exposure time is determined by the amount of ambient light in your scene. If you are in darkness this won't matter that much, if you are in an illuminated environment this will be your first setting to consider. ISO is your light sensitivity, I always start with this around 100-200. F-Stop is how wide the opening is that allows light into your camera. F2.8 will pick up much more light and give you a shallower depth of field, something like F16 will allow in less light and more of your image will be in focus. I like to start around ISO 100- F8
I am new to light painting but when I do a model I just use a flashlight take pic in auto focus and turn it right off. I never use manual. If u use a strobe and it freezes the model the light used in her face won't matter
This is amazing! Thanks for the tips. Just one question. While taking the photo, you are sometimes placed in front of the lens, why is that not captured in the final photo?
Dude is there a way with the iPhone 12 Pro Max do do this using slow shutter app or night mode or anything? I just finished a river table and I’m trying to get a really detailed picture to post in on social media. If you know anything about this it would be greatly appreciated!
Yes there is you can download an app. Here is a tutorial showing how to Light Paint with a cell phone: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j51kkw3ArM8.html
@@LightPaintingPhotography is it the same concept with the iPhone 12 Pro Max since the camera is different? This is exactly what I’m trying to do right here with my table. This guy does absolutely stunning work if your interested in that kinda stuff at all. I’m really just trying to get the best photo possible to post my table online so I can sell it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QG-qEyRg77U.html
Thanks for the tutorial!! I have no idea about light painting, I find it really interesting, but I only have a cheap camera, canon rebel t6 do I need special lens? Also when do you click the camera shutter, right after painting, during painting, sorry for my non sense question 🙏thanks
Hey Liz, There are no non-sense questions. You can definitely Light Paint with your Canon Rebel. You do not need any special lens, I personally use kit lenses a lot of the time. You can even light paint with a cell phone. To light paint you are doing one long exposure so what I am doing is clicking the button once to OPEN the shutter (it stays OPEN the entire time I am doing the Light Painting) then when I am done doing all of the light painting I CLOSE the shutter to end the exposure. All the light is accumulated in a single exposure to create the Light Painting image that you see. It might help you to get a wired shutter release for your camera it makes light painting a bit easier.
Hi Jason, thanks for this great tutorial. I've never done light painting before but would love to give it a try. Please excuse my ignorance but does the room have to be so pitch black that you can't see anything at all ? Thanks for your help.
It doesn't need to be so dark you cant see but the darker you can make the room the better it usually is because it will give you more time to work without having to worry about the room or background being recorded by the camera (unless you want that).
That is interesting, I have never had any trouble with focusing in this way with any lens/camera set up that I have used? I thought that parfocal vs varifocal only mattered if you were zooming in and out for video. I am going to research it more, thank you for the comment.
@@LightPaintingPhotography I was wondering about that to. I use focus zoom which is a digital zoom. But I am also using mirrorless. So not sure if that is available on DSLRs
You are right there is no simple answer but for me what I also take into consideration is depth of field. Besides the amount of light that enters your camera Aperture can also change the depth of field in your image. Generally speaking the more open your aperture is the less depth of field you will have in your image. If you are trying to get the most amount of things in your frame in focus you would shoot at a higher Aperture, say F22. If you wanted to only have your subject in focus and your background blurred you would want to open the aperture say F2.8. Then you would adjust your other settings, the brightness of your flashlight and the speed at which you move through the frame relative to everything else.
Why my model always gets blurred face ? I try to light the model first for 2 sec then shut off lights gonbehind and paint it. Or i try paint it the i light the face but it gets blirred at f9 iso100 10sec bulb...
I'm used to using manual lenses but lately been using lenses with AF. I forget or don't realize that the camera went to sleep. When it wakes up it pulses the focus motor and all pictures are out of focus until I notice it.
Yeah I posted this on the video and in the comments... UPDATES: There are two things that I have learned since posting this video that can make your focus even better. The first is that when you shoot on a tripod you should turn off your image stabilization, this is something I have never done but apparently if you leave the image stabilization on your camera "can" interpret your movement as camera movement and can slightly change the focus. The other thing that I have learned from the community is there is a big difference between a parfocal lens and a varifocal lens. I have used these same two focusing techniques for at least 20 years with every camera and lens set up that I have had and never had any trouble getting sharp focus, well sharp enough for me anyway. However after I posted this video I received a comment from @Scar saying the zoom technique only works with a parfocal lens, so I did some research and have found that indeed a varifocal lens changes the focus at different zoom lengths. Again I have used the zoom technique since it was taught to me in film school 20+ years ago and never had any trouble getting sharp enough focus so I don't know if the focus change is something that I have never noticed when I am creating my Light Painting Photography because I am shooting in the dark and moving so maybe my expectation of focus might be something different from say someone shooting sports. Point being to get even sharper focus If you are using a varifocal lens you want to frame your shot how you intend to shoot it (NOT ZOOM ALL THE WAY IN) then use the digital zoom focus assist, pull focus turn off the focus assist then shoot. I just wanted to share those two updates and say thank you the community for sharing your knowledge with me. I think that its great I can post a tutorial and then I end up learning from the community, I appreciate you guys. Thank you.
Hey Luke, when I'm shooting astro first, I do like Charrier has already stated, zoom in on the brightest star and adjust focus making the star as tight or tiny as possible centered in view finder. Next though, to tighten even more, activate the LCD viewer and use the digital magnifier to focus in up to 10X tighter.
The way I have always done it is just like Charrier said, find a bright star zoom in pull focus and then frame the shot. However I am sure there are some much more sophisticated ways to do it, sure there are some tutorials on RU-vid.,
@@LightPaintingPhotography the camera stabilizer may interpret any movement as the camera moving. Guessing VR means vibration reduction or stabilization.
ANYBODY who starts off with "What's up?" doesn't receive my subscription, because he/she is NOT interested in "what's up" with me - they don't even wait for, nor expect my response - kind of rude. A very lame way to start a video.
