I have to agree with Mike W. you have a wonderful teaching perspective. I wish I could come and do an internship with you but with a wife and kids we have to eat...lol I will still learn plenty from your instructional videos.
Dont know if you guys cares but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all the latest series on Instaflixxer. Have been watching with my gf these days :)
One of my first blacksmithing attempts was making something like this. Turned out pretty horrible. I haven't actually reattempted since then, as I have become distracted with other areas of smithing, but I am excited to try again tomorrow. I appreciate that your videos are useful for blacksmiths of all levels of experience.
A great tip that Randy Haas Jr, of HHH Custom Knives and Damascus, gave me is to watch your flux when you're coming up to welding temp. The flux will start to bubble, and "dance" when it reaches welding temp. This is, of course, after it melts, and covers the steel.
Great channel you got here. Im a rough beginner and heard of your vids in one of "the modern blacksmiths" videos. I think an etch would look great with this piece!!
purgatoryironworks I'm not sure which video he is refering to you being mentioned in, but I'm pretty sure he it talking about the youtube user "modernblacksmith". He has a good amount of vids and subscribers also :)
Thanks for your videos...I live in Scotland where there are so very few traditional or artisan blacksmiths...wish we had an organisation like ABANA here, but the artisan groups are all away in England and the like, so it's RU-vid tutoring ;) Thanks again, and if you're ever in Scotland, consider yourself good for some homemade mead and a beer or two ;)
Is there a book you would recommend for the beginner? I like your teaching style. Clear and informative! I'm very interested in forging/smithing my own tools. Just recently began looking in to this art. Thank you for posting your videos! I've a lot to learn! -Paul
I really like your information especially the metallurgy and chemistry. You just might watch a few more videos besides your own. I've watched many and sometimes your state things as though we are merely watching only your videos.
Good job. Thanks. Do your ears ring after pounding for years? I have several rasps. Typically about 2 inches wide. Can I make a bigger head from them than the one you made?
If you fold over and forge weld the ends so it becomes the length you need, you end up with more mass on your blade without having to weld on extra mass.
Nice video. You explain as you work. One question. I have seen videos of widening, before welding the ends. Is there any differences in strength? Or is it more personal preference?
Is it easier to drift the eye hole by adding a high carbon bit sandwiched in the edge to add some thickness? I made one of these tonight and drifting the eye kept opening the weld. I must have welded it back 6 times. Great, easy to follow video BTW.
That tends to happen even if you have a really good weld, the trick is to lock the weld in the vise, squeezing ti together and then driving the drift through. A smart cheater might even drop a small mig weld inside to hold the weld shut :)
Tray but with many they used a carbon steel bit , but at the same time Hudson bay whos edge tools came from England they did have at that period of time what they called Blister steel .. fun stuff to make , and blister steel has a fair carbon content to hey hope your doing well ..
Maplehouse Knives use a large ziplock bag in a few desiccant packets before you use commercial Borax as it'll bubble a lot because of moisture. Works the same, is the same just bubbles when 20 Mule Team is used.
Great video, I'm going to try this. I've done a stock removal style farriers rasp knife and it came out pretty well. I would like to forge my next pieces Here a link to the knife I did. My First Real Handmade Knife- The Heavy Camper
Hey man, that's cool! Me and my friend are starting to get into blacksmithing, and we're wondering what is the white powder you poured onto the heated metal?
@@purgatoryironworks did you have them custom fitted to the glasses? Are they lenses considered safe for welding? I have 19th century repros I use for the museums where I smith and I wanted to use welding lenses to make looking into welding temp fires safer to look at.
Does the farrier's rasp have to be worn down? Because I have a "fairly" new farrier's rasp, it's been used couple times, but would it be ok to just use it to make a tomahawk without it being worn down, since I now have a dremel which can do a rasp's job and a bit more. I really just want to stick it in the forge kind of new and make part of it a tomahawk and the other end part with the tang an adze, but first I would like to ask you would it be ok?
while I see the benefit of using a single bit of metal to forge the entire piece...since it has the problem of being a prone to burning, would it be better to use a milder steel for the body, and use the hi-carbon as a welded piece at the bit edge?
Do you take on any apprentice, I am from cartersville ga and would like to study under a master. I'm enjoying the things I was taught by my grandfather but there's a lot I would still like to know and he is no longer with us, I would love to study under a master.
purgatoryironworks dang didn't let me finish , it was just a striate drive no reverse i did get to use one it was beautiful for cleaning up shoulders didn't have the 1800.00 at that time
I hate to say it but the KMG with all the attachment has it beat , you can go all the way to a 14" contact wheel for doing BOB LOVELESS hollow grinds , and you can set it up with a larger work table all I ever did with the burr king was hollow grinding and flat grinding and I can do that on what I have now and that is a grizzly G1015 , I had the special attachments that went with the burr king I loved it and I miss it a lot and if i ever get another grinder it will be the KMG and it will just run Cluster pulley's , what i really want is a gravity fed Drill press , about a 1918 model set it and forget it lol but the thing about the K M G .. you can build a Clone K M G in a three inch wide or 2.5 with a 12 , 14 , or a 15 " long platen harden a chunk of 3/8ths precision O1 , that platen will last you and your great grand kids , lol anyway congrats on the discovery channel , i have a blade that will be in the discovery channel this fall a survival team spent almost a month in the arctic congrats B T W on your discovery spot light ..
A farrier is a blacksmith that specialises in making and shooing horses. A farriers rasp is the tool he uses to remove excess metal from the unfinished shoe. It's modern equivalent is the belt-sander, angle-grinder and bench-grinder.
Melissa...a farrier is someone who shoes and trims horses. the farriers rasp is used to file and shape the horse's hoof like you do with your own nails. Jeff you adjust the shoe to FIT the horse's hoof not the other way around. a farrier is now a specialist and works with all types of horses. it used to be that the blacksmith would shoe horses years ago. now not so much as there is alot of skill involved in trimming and shoeing a horse's feet.
+Zack Rockwell Not at the moment, Mr. Zack! There have been a lot of changes going on in the shop and blades have not been at the fore front. However, we are building a new shop in April and we will have an expanded range of work then. Check in with me!
Like the video..but why does your belt sander tun backwards compared to every other I've seen in videos? Those sparks flying up into your face can't be good..! Not to mention all the metal filings flying around the shop..
+purgatoryironworks hey trent I see that you are using coal/charcoal and reaching white hot or very close. when I am heating up steel (mostly files,mower blades and spikes at this point) I'm trying to reach high a high temperature so I can work with it longer than a min or two and for some reason sparks will fly out of my forge and I pull the piece out and it is melted....what am I doing wrong? and how can I fix it?
purgatoryironworks hey trent I see that you are using coal/charcoal and reaching white hot or very close. when I am heating up steel (mostly files,mower blades and spikes at this point) I'm trying to reach high a high temperature so I can work with it longer than a min or two and for some reason sparks will fly out of my forge and I pull the piece out and it is melted....what am I doing wrong? and how can I fix it?
You said "back in the day a lot of the tools they used was nothing more than wrought iron." and "even if I were to live this as it is, it would be a much better tool than that they used to have.". Now I don't fully agree with that statement as there are found remains of axes and knifes and other cutting tools with an edge of high-carbon-steel. If you are talking about the native Americans, I can't really say anything against it because I have zero knowledge about their metalworking skills. If, on the other hand, you are talking about Vikings, Romans or medieval Europe, you are wrong.
Let me clarify, the quality of steel we have today -FAR- outpaces anything in olden times due to our methods of manufacture. The consistency and repeatability of that quality is what sets it apart. There may have been a smith that achieved a high quality steel back in the day but he could not repeat his achievement with any consistency. Thus was born the fracture test.
Nor .. I I believe what the man is saying if we had the stone age the bronze age and he iron age before we had steel . now you know back around 900 ad to around 1000 ad .. the Vikings found a crucible steel wither from Asia or India the true Damascus or Wootz this was at least 500 years before England had any idea what it was . Sheffield came up with blister steel simply take thin iron strips that were hammered out to some where around a 8th of an inch or so . and they made a crucible to contain the iron and they packed carbon from trees charcoal into the crucible and as much as they could and sealed it and then fired it ,. taking it to forging head as the carbon burned it got into the poor's of the iron creating shear steel a carbon steel . forging two strips together created double shear steel and then triple shear steel . giving it the carbon content creating carbon steel ..but something I have learned is you only need 10 to 20% carbon threw out the steel to get a good hardening upon quench . but also depending on how the carbon steel is heat-treated plays a giant part on the edge holding ability and the performance don't you agree ??
Norwegian Blacksmith You can't even find pure iron in nature. It's almost always in some form of alloy. Also, imagine spending all your time as a blacksmith, you'd most likely see huge differences in metallurgical properties depending on how you manipulate the material. Also, you need steel to work with granite and other forms of matter. So, one can say, that many pyramids have been made with some steel alloy tools.
