Really helpful video. Nice work, man! I didn't have a fork seal driver, or a 36mm socket. But, the old fork seal set upside down on top of the new seal worked great for tapping it down with a mallet.
Good video thanks! I modified the zip tie trick by using two zips one mini for wrapping both the rod and a larger tie unzipped under the nut the spacer slides over both and just pull the larger tie its much more compact that way.
Nice shed. I built one just like it for my bike. Blew up the motor and bought a new bike while I rebuild that one. Now I have to work on the other one outside on the carport again. Lol.
About ready to do my 02 GSXR. They were originally done by RACETECH and all I have done over the years is change fluid every 4 track weekend's. I am hoping when I get into them that they are this style without the metal bush on the upper part of the lower fork tube. Looks like such a easier dis/reassembly. Lol. As far as the spring compressor I made a similar one after looking at the cost of the ones they sell. Great video. Btw, my winter shop is similar to yours with a propane space heater and working with outside temps in the single digits.
I believe the cap was not set correctly. The jam nut was not all the way down on the rod when you set the cap. The cap must be set until it doesn't turn anymore then you bring the jam nut to the cap and tighten it. If you don't do that then you will not have the full factory range of settings. I would double check that if I were you. Dave Moss tuning has some really detailed vids on that.
Really useful tip. I spent a day surfing this topic to find this comment. I did the same mistake and couldn't figure out where problem is. I got only 2 full turns of range on rebound screw which is surely way out of spec.
1970PMD I believe that’s not entirely accurate either how you explain it. What you do is turn the rebound adjuster fully soft, then before fitting the rebound adjuster you turn it clockwise the amount of turns determined by the factory, which for these forks is 3.5 turns. You then screw it in until it won’t turn any more. Then you bring the jam nut up to meet it. Then you double check whether it goes 3.5 turns to fully soft and then 3.5 turns to fully hard.
@@KeyserSoze5421 you might be right or wrong I am not an expert as Dave Moss surely is. The way I understand it looking at David Moss's vids, is the way I describe it above. I am certain different manufacturers may do it differently. If I recall you must bring the cap to the full bottom position, then bring jam nut up to cap. As far as the rebound adjuster I would have to revisit his vid, but then again depends on manufacturer? Good point.
1970PMD the jam nut doesn’t determine how far the rebound adjuster comes down the rod, if you turn the jam but all the way to the bottom the distance the rebound adjuster comes down is dependant on how many turns you have turned it clockwise, I know this for a fact as I’ve literally just rebuilt the same forks. Then you bring the jam but back up to meet the rebound adjuster and lightly snug them up then double check that you can get the full range of adjustment.
Hello Joshua. I appreciate your video. I decided to take my Forks into a local shop instead of doing them myself. When I got them back I could hear fluid sloshing inside when I turn my forks upside down to carry them. I was under the impression that hydraulics systems don't typically allow for sloshing and should be air-tight. Is there anything I should be worried about? What are the pitfalls I can expect if my repair shop didn't bleed my shocks just right, or not add enough oil?
Good video! Have you ever tried replacing the fork bushings? I recently bought an all balls kit for my gsxr and it came with new fork bushings but I'm not 100% sure about how to go about replacing them. Apparently they're "captive bushings" inside of the outer fork tube
Just did a set off an 06 1000 , removed btm bolt , slider came right out of outer tube , popped out dust seal , removed snap ring , popped out oil seal , reinstalled new seals and clip , slid slider back in , locktited and torqued btm bolt , unscrewed cap from top of outer tube , filled with fluid , tightened cap , done. Never had to touch spacer or compress spring , maybe one your working on if different ?
I know this video is old. but is the only good oneon this model of fork. i have only one question. The manual says 107mm clearance. why did you do 140mm. I'm sure there is a good reason. great video. thank you so much.
Thanks for the comment. Honestly don't remember why I put that amount. There was some other reference I was going by, but I can't quite remember. Worked well tho
@@JoshuaHambyRacing thanks for your reply, it's good to know it worked fine. i like how mine feels I have no idea it it was serviced before and altered or if it's factory, I'm tempted to measure the clearance on the one that isn't leaking to have an idea. otherwise, I will go factory to start and take it from there. Thank you so much for the great video and reply.
Scrolling thru to see what kind of oil that was, i do recognize the brand, just not exactly sure what grade one should use. So also, are both forks identical make up, spring and all that?
thanks for video.. i have recently changed my forks seals i didnt have nothing to mesure the oil so you said that each fork should take around 414ml around but i have put like 450ml .. sems like is leaking but verry little. sorry my English, why is still leaking??? forks seals are new
Thanks for the vid. Is there a reason you couldn't just measure in the oil using the correct amount? And where did you get the spec for the oil height in the fork tube? Thanks
Hope it helped ya! I actually got it from a guy at the track as far as levels. You'd think you could just put a set amount of fluid, but for some reason, they do it this way.
+ali baba Thanks. I believe I got some Bel Rey. 10W is equivalent to SS-05 as I've been told for Suzuki GSXR. Online might be your best option, but a couple liters will last you a long time.
14:29 When I bleed the cartridge, my fork oil only comes out when I pull the inner rod out and NOT when pushing it back in. What's going on? The problem does not occur on my other fork cartridge.
You shouldn’t use metal prying on your aluminum tubing chances are you’re going to mar it up.. if you have to use an old rubber tube. Use the old seal to push the new one in as well no need for heating the tube some ppl have gotten them to hot and ruin the seals and or tube..
I believe the forks are a different set, but the process would be the same. There are many ways to make a spring compression tool. Alot of creative people have come up with some cool ideas. Google "Fork spring compressor tool". You just need to be able to pinch the spacer and pull it down.
Say Man, you should do A VIDEO ON HOW YOU MADE THE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL!!!!!!!......... I'm sure said potential video could be A BIG HIT FOR YOU!!!........ Out of all the videos that I've seen about doing a fork oil change, I never saw a COOLER, MORE BITCHIN' SELF MADE TOOL THAN YOURS!!!.... So please MAKE A NEW VIDEO ON PARTS AND METHOD OF FABRICATING SAID TOOL...... Thanks Man..........
Idk what the hell mine won't stop leaking right fork leaking after replacing seals twice what is the deal with these forks left one is fine I used these seals was leaking so I bought oem still leaking on the right fork
Could be the fork tube is pitted and debris or yiur bushings are wore out snd also need to be replaced. The bushings stop the fork from having excessive play which can make the seals leak prematurely
@@JoshuaHambyRacing yes sir. After watching your video, I suspect the top cap may be put together wrong?? Because I can't seem to get back to the factory suspension settings. I tried putting the suspension settings back to stock per the manual on this bike, and when I turned the rebound adjustment screw all the way to the right, it would recess past the preload adjuster, and I'd get fork oil coming FROM where the rebound screw is recessed.
+Eduardo Iglesias It's kind of hard to explain, but a simple concept. Google fork spring compression tool and check out the images. Alot of people are creative. This one, pretty much is a nut, welded on a threaded rod with an inner tube that slides in an outer tube. A nut is welded to the top of the outer tube as well, so when it spins, it moves in and out. And a pincher for the fork's inner tube is attached to the compression tool outer tube. Hard to explain it. Maybe I'll load a video.
They look like they'd be the same if its around the same year. If you have the manual, it should note the amount of fluid. But by the looks, its the same.
The spring has to be compressed, but there are many ways to get it done. Google suspension compression tool and many people have come up with easy ways to do it.
