I personally just did the swap in my driveway mostly by myself (because my old man was against me doing the swap because of having to cut into the tunnel). My old man actually helped a little when i was stumped, but i skipped a good bit of these steps (with the knowledge my old man gave me) but the biggest one was not having to cut the tunnel. The transmission went right up and in with no problem and the car is now back on the road.
Yup, the tunnel hump is completely unnecessary unless you are switching to an aftermarket shifter, I have a hurst and felt like doing it simply because it looks nicer
@@LegendDEJ I like doing things the correct way so, yes I used a manual transmission harness. Using the correct part to do the swap makes things alot easier I used as many factory ford parts as I could unless I found a aftermarket upgrade parts. I hope this helps.
No, the cluster doesn't have to be installed to start the car. If you do this, the alternator won't charge as that circuit is tied into the volt gauge on the cluster. This could also be the reason why the airbag module is beeping. It's been a while since I've looked at the circuit, but I'm pretty sure the Airbag Diagnostic Module is tied into the airbag light on the cluster. As far as the car not starting, something in the wiring isn't right. Go over it again and make sure it's all correct. -Landan
I was under the impression you need to rebalance the rotating assembly when you swap from flex plate to flywheel? Is this the same for a 5.8 sbf Windsor
Currently doing this could you clarify the wiring at the transmission. I saw a video somewhere else stating o2 harnesses need to be repinned. You dont mention any that. Could you just clarify
We don't mention any of that because we left the automatic ECU in place. If you're replacing the factory automatic ECU with one from a manual car, then you have to match the o2 harness with the computer that you're using. This can be done by repinning the existing connector or just purchase a new harness. What year is the car you're swapping and what ECU do you have? -Landan
This will depend on the mechanical skill and the condition of the vehicle. With these vehicles being 30+ years old, there may be obstacles found that we did not run into. We recommend getting with your local shop to discuss an estimate based on your vehicle.
Hey Dallan, here is the link for the safety switch on our site and the full video breakdown: lmr.com/item/LRS-11156A/86-93-Mustang-Clutch-Pedal-Safety-Switch - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ej8-W6H_Cw.html
The routing of the clutch cable was explained starting at 28:54. The wiring related to the swap is discussed throughout the video. What is your specific question? We'll be happy to help. -Landan
When you get it all done you have a T5 which works for a 4 cylinder or maybe a V6 but behind a V8 it won't last very long. You spent all that time and money and end up with pretty much nothing. That's not a good trans to use for V8 motors.
@macnation3006 I'm pretty much retired now but we used to rebuild lots of T-5. V-8 motors eat them for breakfast. They work great if you don't drive aggressively. We added onto our guarantee that we don't warranty broken gears, broken or bent mainshafts, or broken cases. If you break it in half we let you keep both pieces. That's our famous 50-50 guarantee. Bent mainshaft is a common problem. They jump out of 1st gear when you accelerate. Good box but then won't handle lots of power.
After watching your video I'd bet money you've never worked one day of your life as a real mechanic. Way too many mistakes. I know you're really proud of your video but it's actually embarrassing.
