try “business math” Expenses: M3 shell: $700 AAA Tow: $Free.99 Value of parts: M3 complete rear subframe (diff/trailing arms/axles): $1000-$1500 M3 front and rear brakes + M3 front knuckles: $400-$600 M3 rear seats, gauge cluster, wheels, misc parts: $500+ Scrap metal for the crashed shell: $200 Net: $1400 profit on the low end, double what I paid. If you remove the parts I kept for myself and leave everything else I let my friend sell in exchange for storing the car, I got $1400+ in parts for $700, and he made at least $700 parting it out. So yea, it was free lol
I’ve been dealing with this same issue I have an 06 325i lowered on Bilstein B14 has new iner and outer rods an new lower an upper control arm as well as sway bar end link but not adjustable last I had the control arms done still handle like crap I asked my mechanic if my alignment was done cause the steering is off centered he said yes I took his word but still don’t think so but 1 thing I did notice on driver side coil over top strut mount it’s not put on correctly how I know cause bmw has a nipple bump on the top the pops out when installed correctly my passenger side is showing it but driver side is not I’m assuming that’s another issue now I didn’t install my coil over I had someone do it for me
Crash damaged vehicles will always feel wrong no matter what you do. A bent frame can be just a tiny bit off and it will destroy the handling. There's a reason it was this cheap, in some countries it's no longer considered road worthy because of this.
the thing about e36s is that the US m3 and 328s aren’t much different at all, even if the E36 M3 had “different suspension components” they really arent much different every other M3 however is to each base model 3 series
Non-M3s don’t perform as well as M3s, but make no mistake: Even the lowest trim of E36 handles better than most cars, and they certainly don’t havy crappy handling. The problem is THAT car. Not non-M3s.
@@ChrysGainesi mean even id you add all the m3 parts onto the 3 series, it's still not an authentic m3. If you search the vin it'll show up as a 3 series not an m3
The only part that is gonna affect your handling is the knuckles. The rest of the factory upgrades on the M3 are either not significant for handling, such as the bigger axles, the trailing arms to accomodate said axles and M3 brakes, the brakes. Or you're not using them, like the top hats which are not relevant for you as you're using coilovers, of the control arm bushings, which you already have upgraded to excentric versions on your non-M There is something wrong with either the car or the driver if you really rebuilt everything and put all the parts shown in the beginning of the video, because it's not gonna be loose, nor is it gonna feel worse than a 350z.
It's probably because it was better stock and all the different companies Replacing components in it may fit together, but don't work together to make a cohesive package.
it may have been more dialed in stock than it is currently, but you don’t see many people competitively driving bone stock e36’s on track. everything’s a compromise built towards a specific use case. mine is very different than the factory’s
Steering guibo. Factory one is made of rubber. There are a couple of different upgrades, I wouldn’t recommend the polyurethane ones tho. You can use the e34 steering u-joint or use two e46 steering joints and make your own solid steering shaft. This would get rid of the slop in the center of your steering travel
lol, nobody is just taking pictures every time you go out. I have owned multiple M3’s including my current supercharged E90 and that shit just doesn’t happen unless you live in the middle of Wisconsin.
Its the tires, their either too wide or not wide enough. Went from 245/70R16 to 235/70R16 on my GMC Sierra and it makes it turn way sharper corners almost like a damn SUV or Sadan
i have been thinking about that too. i’m used to 265/275’s on my 350Z, which feel way better than the 245’s it came with on the front. i will be going wider on this car at some point either way
Check out the vw gti steering one of the most responsive stock steering I’ve felt they have fwd and awd models so you should find something that can fir
Try a stock civic hatchback feom 96-00 upgrade power and up the wheel to 15inch rims handles so go took a 25mph corner goin 60 in the rain stayed in one lane didnt loose traction
Do you really think I didn’t get the car aligned after doing coilovers, replacing the entire front suspension arms + bushing setup, sway bars, swapping in a new steering rack, and getting new wheels? 2.5/2.0 degrees camber, 4.5 degrees caster, 0/0.1 degree toe. I’ve got the alignment specs saved lol.
Hey Chrys, I was in an accident a couple days back and my car ended up being a total loss, I was wondering if you could transform my car? I got a Lexus IS… well had lol
It's not the work, after some fool destroyed it. Do I want this car and do I have the money to get and fix one in any condition. The Answer: it's the love of all of us who love them..! After all if the work is done right..! In the end it's the driving experience that keeps us coming back for more..!
Angle kit changed my e36 completely. But if you're more interested in track just do slightly extended control arms maybe 31mm and cut knuckles. It's the increased camber and more angle that tightens up the steering by a lot. Change your lolipop to an offset one aswell if you want more selfsteer.
@@ChrysGaines its stock but the tip in is much more aggressive with the angle kit. It makes the car more pointy and willing to turn. Honestly don't know why more people don't go this method beyond for drifting.
I mean you just put M parts on it the car but the thing that makes the M is the engine but I still give props cause I don't got a BMW I got a 2011 Mercedes Benz E350 and I would low-key prolly do the same if I had enough money ngl 😅😅
Bro he’s not even trying to upbadge his car as an M3 tho… he’s just trying to improve the handling by replacing the suspension components with M3 components. Also, your dad’s E350 is not known for being a track car lol you are not doing shit
@@ajisai1 What's your problem, it's not my dad's car and was never my dad's you just go around saying things cause you see a person with a Benz and just instantly think there dad bought it our some sh go put your comment on someone elses that actually promotes or uses or shows there dads money or vehicles off :/ and also i was never hating in the guy for doing.
at face value this sounds like a fair statement, until you start looking into people’s experiences cross-shopping 350z’s against E36’s, and tracking them. The majority of info I found pointed to people loving the handling of the E36 more than the Z. The variable here is that I’ve built and tuned my Z’s suspension and tire setup far past the stock specs, which may or may not have made it handle amazingly compared to stock lol
i posted a couple first track day videos, including the most recent regular YT video on my channel. it’s honestly so confidence inspiring, responsive and grippy - I’m chasing that feeling in the bimmer. it has been dialed in over the years though, and i have 265/275 wide tires front and rear, which i think help significantly. we’ll be going wider on the E36 at some point
lol, not that much differences in m3 and base e36 suspensions, my guess is that you fucked up getting poly bushes instead of uniballs in rear and have incorrect caster in front
i know, but i’d rather build all the best parts outside of the car and just swap it in vs. reusing my stock stuff. going with poly subframe and diff bushings but monoball rtabs, outer balljoints, and inner uppers. also been wondering if my roll center after lowering is making a significant difference
The e36 is the most overrated, yet worst handling 3-series. The e30 had great handling/feel (the rear straightened itself out) and the e46 after it also better!
Bro, what in gods name are you talking about? Z3 steering rack, 325i mtech front swaybar, camber castor top hats, 95 m3 control arms with offset lcabs, 330i front brakes, e46 325i rear brakes and boom: you have a equivalent of a e36 m3. You are still clueless as to what is actually different on these cars. The only worthwhile part on that m3 is the 3.38 diff if it's an auto. The rest: same results with "kitbashing" for much less $$$$$. Why spend a fortune on m3 spindles, trailing arms, calipers when e46 brakes are BIGGER and cheaper? There are literal, dead sea scrolls on maxbimmer and bfc about these cars and you're acting like you've made a massive discovery. This is just embarrassing.
honestly this comment is just confusing me more than anything lol. i’ve learned more than I care to about the differences between the E36 models and what works on them. I already had the z3 rack, camber plates, offset arms, sways, and a bunch of other stuff. All I was looking for was an M3 rear end dropout with the 3.38 so I could just swap a refreshed subframe in with no down time. but people in my area were charging $1400 for just the rear end, or $2500 for a parts car with no engine/trans. So when a $700 M3 parts car popped up for sale, you’re telling me I shouldn’t have taken all the M specific parts that were in one convenient place for me? Just scrap the stronger trailing arms + axles to match, a full set of M brakes + booster, the front knuckles with additional camber built in? It seemed pretty worthwhile to me at that price.
@@ChrysGaines you narrated the video in a completely different fashion, pretending like E36 M3 is some ungodly car compared to a standard e36. Its got bigger brakes, more castor on the front, more camber on the front, and a stiffer swaybar mounted to the shocks instead of the control arms. That's it. Im here to correct this ridiculous video.
i’m 30 too lol 😅 but i had no idea what I was doing when I started, I just watched a ton of videos and learned along the way. definitely made some mistakes too, but made some friends with expertise along the way
the skill issue will fix itself as I get more track days under my belt 🤷♂️ what won’t help fix my skill issue is trying to track a 25 year old car on 260,000 mile disintegrating rubber bushings…
You took it to the mechanic or did you have access to those wheel alignment machine racks because those machine racks perfectly tell you what you need to align the car to for each model of a car each car has its own specification crap so yeah if you did it that way then yeah you should be fine cheers
The E36 M3 “shares the same suspension setup as the base model” in a few ways: Front - Lower ride height, stiffer springs and dampers - upper strut mount offset for additional camber+caster - sway bar mount moved from control arm to strut for nearly 2x motion ratio, allowing for a lighter bar to be stiffer - new longer lower control arm for added caster with solid balljoint instead of rubber isolated one - revised spindle geometry to accommodate new roll center, add camber, and fit larger M3 brake calipers Rear - stronger rear trailing arms, revised to fit larger M calipers - outer balljoints instead of rubber bushings - removed damper on subframe - factory reinforced subframe mounts Steering racks are essentially the same 3.3 turns, but the M3 has limiters installed (probably to avoid fender liner contact due to increased caster). This doesn’t matter because I already have a 2.7 turn Z3 rack. But I’m sure I missed something 😂😂
Wtf bro??!!??? The e36 need the bushing made from metal, the one that goes from steering wheel to steering rack, is just old and rubber is garbage on steering
