Good video, coilovers (with adjustable top hats in the front) and rear lower control arms seem to be the best way to get all the functional camber an 86/BRZ needs. I wish these cars came with full alignment capability from the factory like mx5's etc.
While a lot of what you say about the handling benifit of negitive camber is technically correct, I feel like it would have been better to advise this should be done for cosmetic reasons. Lowering your car by shortening the coil overs will change the suspension geometry (thus why there is natural inc. of negative camber)and how much camber gain, bump steer, roll centre migration you get during a corner, which may (or may not) have a greater influence on handling than the camber benifit (assuming set up correctly) and maybe the lower COG as well. Maybe a video on roll centre correction kits could be good
Jesse Flannery 👋 They did but not the Cluster speaker like how Subispeed did for the seat belt chime, I would like their tips before I attempt to do it on mine. Lol
Camber is important for handling... when done correctly. How about talking about dialing in functional amount of camber in different driving environments and setup (track, autox, etc)? All those examples of hellaflush or stanced or whatever you call it... it's how you absolutely ruin handling and the car.
@@yogu_u Yea sure but they were already presenting extreme examples of how to do your car a disservice with camber like it is the main reason for it. They can certainly cover more details about proper camber. After all, they are selling these products that they are talking about.
Missing few other ways to get extra camber: For front: 1) slotted coilover mount holes for some of coilovers (or DIY slotting of existing coilovers, non reversible mod though, and in some cases non legal). For example - KW/ST/RCE ones. Extra notes - manufacturers of slotted coilovers advise not to use lobed camberbolts at slotted holes, also some may have not oval slots, but eg. larger diameter hole (IIRC koni yellows), and some manufacturers offer camber fixed offset inserts for their slotted coilovers to prevent possible slippage of bolt 2) adustable Powerflex front control arm rear eccentric bushings PFF69-801G (or stiffer PFF69-801GBLK) 3) Pedders fixed offset front strut rubber topmounts PED-580096 (similar to Whiteline Com-C offset rubber front strut topmounts, which delisted twins as compatible though, after failing to solve binding bearing issues in few revisions) For rear: 1) Whiteline rear control arm bushing/camberbolt kit KCA326 2) H&R TC112 camberbolts (for small range though, more for evening out) Also some coilover manufacturers may cut mount holes so to have more camber from get go. IIRC 949 Racing upcoming Xidas coilover kit for twins should be such. More expensive and thus less common option for rear camber might be adjustable upper control arms vs cheaper/more common lower control arms. There are also full suspension kits with adjustable almost everything or different caster/camber then stock. For example Wisefab kits.
After a ton of research it seems the only way to add front camber is via camber bolts if you already have coilovers most factory camber plates only allow for maybe a degree of adjustment, unless you're willing to spend upward of 1000 dollars on an angle kit or one of the 2 adjustable front control arms that are offered that are completely impractical
@FTSpeed, love your channel with your structured dissemination of info. Quick question for you.. any issues if i set -1.5 camber to ONLY my front wheels? Primary aim is to tuck in some 20mm pole to ensure i clear fenders on max suspension travel. Rear doesn’t need it
I just installed the FactionFab FR-Spec coilovers on my 86 and did it to the exact specs in the install videos. My wheels are the exact same spec too, but I can’t manage to achieve the tuck on the front wheels the way you guys have on your 86. Even at max camber with the camber plates. How did you guys do it?
