BUY IT HERE: All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz TOKONOLE: amzn.to/2RSmhjW 3M High-quality Sandpaper: amzn.to/2LwVMPL Matador #3000 and High grit Sandpaper: amzn.to/2XnMxZz
Hi, great video. Do you have a link to purchase the handheld cutter you used on the edge of the leather at the 2:50 mark of the video? I think i could find that tool very useful but i have no clue what its actually called or where to purchase. Thanks!
Appreciate your teaching the fundamentals and using the basic toolset most of us can afford. It's the' little things' you talk about that make the difference in quality. As a beginner, I've learned a lot from your station. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you...best tutorial I've seen! Your order of operations was a very helpful change from what I had been doing previously. I had been using ultra fine sandpaper as a last sand BEFORE tokonole and then only wood burnishing and finishing with a cloth. Hadn't tried the fine sanding between coats of tokonole. Much improved shine.
Thanks for such a detailed and wonderfully described steps in your video! Always great to see and hear step-by-step instructions to complete a product build and finish! My only question is how long will this edge last under normal use... ALOT of work if it only lasts during a few uses but certainly worth it if all the time/effort will stand up under normal wear and tear... Again, THANKS for all the time/effort you took in sharing your obvious knowledge and experience with us!
Thanks from me also. I'm happy/surprised that my self-taught approach is exactly the same except that I use 60:40 white (PVA) glue/water mix which delivers very similar results. But maybe I should obtain some Tokonole to see how how the finishes compare. Your videos are always helpful, thanks again.
Very very helpful, thanks! I have the same Tokonole waiting to be used for the first time. I also have black edge tint on order. But maybe black Tokonole is better than tinting first and using clear? Or black tint first and then black Tokonole? Perhaps the answer is in one of your other videos. I will have a look.
Polishing the leather with a clear finish polish. Working all the porosity out of the edge. Filling the voids with leather dust and polish. Friction and heat do the work.
Greetings - I just recently found your channel and I’ve been binge watching your videos lol. You do an amazing job! I’ve already learned several things that I’ve never seen before! I have a question for you though. I’m about to start making a leather sheath for a large knife. I want it to be completely black including all of the edges. So do I dye the edges before doing what you are showing in this video or do I dye it after this? Im trying to make the entire sheath super shiny black like a good pair of leather shoes that have been polished to a glassy finish. It’s a gift for my son who is a disabled veteran. Please help me figure this out. Thank you, Jon
Hello Sir, Thank you for watching my channel. To make the sheath entierly shiny and black, you dye before you apply tokonole. apply dye several times after each layer of dye dries. and then tokonole and slicker and sanding. I hope your son like your sheath! : )
Hi, you have been a huge contribution to my leather working journey and I want to thank you! With that said, can you try canvas paper like you said you would in a comment? Have you improved on the glass edge technique? How long(years) can the edge stay glassy and for the most part uniform do you think? After doing the exact steps as you did not his video. Thank you!
If I may offer one more additional step at the end? Hitting it with a bone folder (or possibly a grooved out antler, thought I haven't tried antler yet) gives a bit more polish. I was reading up on Japanese lacquering techniques, and it seems one of the final steps is antler powder to get a really, really high shine on the lacquer itself, which can also be substituted with a bonefolder. Hitting dull areas with the folder, lightly, does take it up a notch. I don't know the grit on a bone folder, but I think its really, really high so it would follow well after the 8000 grit paper.
Actually, you can go crazy with grit progression starting with very low grits to very high. However, it is really time-consuming to do that in sequence. As for the final step, you can try with some wax and canvas.
Hello Toby, Thanks for watching always and commenting. Yup, there are many ways you can do this. I just wanted to show the simplest way with basic tools
Some pretty grainy looking glass. I can assure you using water followed by paraffin/beeswax using a heat gun and canvas will get you a smoother finish than that.
Honestly I'd buy a used Stanley Sweetheart or Veritas low angle block plane off Ebay before I'd try an unknown website that uses unfamiliar currency. A plane is a pretty simple tool, and the Veritas and the Sweetheart line from Stanley are some of the best. Just Ebay a used one. If you dont know how to mirror polish a good sharp edge, pay a local sharpening shop a few bucks to brighten it up for you. It will cut like a dream.