Thank you, very nice edit and put together. Very thorough and yes, the door looks fantastic. I'll be installing eight of these five of which are glass front door types so I'm gonna be heavy yet. These look fantastic. You made. It seem really simple for me.
Looks great.....I have the exact same pocket doors as well as the soft open and soft close rollers. Right now doing trim. As you said it's much easier to paint up in the track before trim is installed to not have to worry about overspray. I just used some flat black rustoleum spray paint on my tracks. But overall your setup looks great. Hope mine turns out just as nice 😊
On their webpage it says that 2 of the 1060 kits are required if you want a soft open and a soft close. Did I miss this in the video? I thought you only installed one 1060 kit and your door has both soft open and soft close. Thank you, Im about to add one of these to my bathroom along with a complete remodel.
I use lightweight spackle to caulk the holes. It doesn't shrink like caulk and it's easily applied and sanded. ( I use an old credit card to apply it). It also dries rather quickly.
What CAN'T one use lightweight spackle for? I smeared it on some rough plywood facing to make it a paint-ready surface and it seems to be holding up a year later...
Would love to see a bit more around minute 6:52, how you packed down around the track, to support the revealed split trim at the top of the door. It looks like you packed down with wood cut to depth to match side vertical jamb tops, then trimmed onto that with the revealed split trim pieces supported into the packing, which in turn is supported into the same header the track mounts on. I guess the door top trim pieces are the same stock (or ripped-to-width) as the vertical split trim?
Sorry I missed this one somehow. I believe you are correct with your explanation. The main thing on pocket doors I like to put the top split pieces in last because if you ever need to adjust the wheels on the track, you can remove those without taking apart the whole top.
Have the frame and everything installed, but having a hard time actually getting the door hung and attached to the rollers. But all of the videos seem to cut away and not show the actual hanging of the door, lol
Thanks Bob. Yes here’s the link again. It’s also in the video description below the video. amzn.to/2A7h2T2 it’s the Johnson Hardware 1060 soft close. The wheels are a white plastic of some kind yes.
Thanks for all 3 videos. I had a Cavity Slider put in at a friends house I was getting fixed up. He wanted the best and CS seem to be the cadillac of pocket doors. I'm putting in a J&J bathroom between two bedrooms for my grandkids. I don't need a cadillac. :-) I picked up two of these 1500 kits along with the soft open/close mechanisms. I bought the door guides that will run in a slot on the bottom. I'm also installing on a slab as you did so these videos were really helpful. I saw that Johnson had a Jam Kit, but it looks like you just used a standard jam and ripped it to where you needed it. Was that the case? Thanks again.
Yes, I pre-drilled with a smaller sized drill bit to get it started and then used trim head screws and since it was paint grade trim, I puttied over the heads. If you ever have to remove it, you’ll have to dig the putty out of the heads.
Very helpful, thanks! Since I'm tight on space (cutting down 32" doors for 30" frames), can I forego the frame's rubber bumper with the soft open hardware?
I really don’t. That may be a good question to ask them. If you call The number they seem to have good customer service from what I’ve experienced. Thanks
they don't want the top dadoed in because if you do you can never take the door off again without taking down the entire jamb. The instructions say to use screws on the top split jamb on the side with the levers so that you can pop it out and remove the door at any time.
My wife wants a pocket door, I'm reluctant. My fear, I will be annoyed when trying to pull it out, to close it, that you will always have to stop, use the tips of your fingers, pry it out of the jam to start it closing. Is there a way, to keep it about one inch out, ALL THE TIME, when the door is open? Watching your soft opening video, what if I installed the back "opening stopper thing" about one inch farther out (towards the opening) then the instructions indicated. Would that keep the door always out and easier to grab? Thank you!
Yes you could potentially do that. The other thing is most pocket door latches that you get have a pull that sticks out you can grab onto and pull the door out. Like this example www.primeline.net/n-7367-deluxe-pocket-door-privacy-lock-pull-3-34-satin-nickel
Hey There! Awesome video. I'm working on trimming out a home for a builder. Drywall has already been installed around the pocket door frame, and now the homeowners want to add the soft close system. does that same bracket that catches it to close need to be installed on the opposite side as well, for soft opening? Wondering if I'm going to have to cut out drywall to attach it to the non exposed area of the frame. Thanks!
Hi JJ. Yes the soft open needs to be installed inside the other end of the track. I did a video on that before the drywall was installed. I’ll try to link that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5UmO1IwYGk0.html In the comments someone had said they were able to do it without opening the drywall but I don’t remember how. It seems like it will need to be opened to access it and then patched.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thank you! I typed too soon, and then saw you answered it already after I posted. Thank you anyways! used 5 extensions to get the back bracket installed
Thanks. I had impression from video that I could swap in the soft close rollers with no other modifications to my existing track. Sounds like there's a piece back inside the wall that engages? I prolly will open some wallboard to install a spacer where my bumper lands so that the door is flush in the split trim when fully opened, anyway...
Thank you. No I didn’t because someone else installed the drywall. The main thing is to use really short screws. You’ll have a hard time going through the steel on the backside of those anyway with longer screws but you want to use short screws so it doesn’t damage your door.
When you first hung the door, it would recess/close past the door jamb. In the final reveal, it closes flush with the jamb. Is there something to adjust that sets that?
I think maybe I had to adjust the soft close for that 3/4” thickness difference. You can do that with that wrench or screwdriver I believe before finishing off the top piece.
Awesome videos Paul. They are really going to help this DIYer when I attempt this project soon. Quick question, I hear a popping noise when you first pull the door closed and I think when you open it too. Does that noise always happen, or did it only happen in your video because you don't have the handle on and had to pull the door from the top? The reason I'm asking is because this will be installed in the doorway going from the Master bedroom into the Bathroom. My significant utter is a light sleeper, so I have to be able to nearly silently open and close the door right now. I think that popping noise might be an issue.
Thanks! So yes it does make that noise some every time. It’s not as loud as on the video I don’t think but it’s there. What it is is the soft open and soft close feature on these doors engaging and disengaging. If you’re really concerned about it you could just not use that option and use regular rollers that come with it.
The sound will wake my 2 year old up even with his sound machine going, but to be fair his bed is close. The rollers will be noisy on any pocket door as well. I just go slow and stop before the soft close engages, it will leave the door open a couple inches but that's your only option. In my opinion the non soft close rollers are more quiet than soft close. Unless someone slams them open or closed lol
Probably a dumb question but the Johnson pocket door frame I have didn’t have wood inside the metal studs. Did you add that yourself or did I screw up something? Just curious about how to attach trim without it. Thanks
Yes I did soft open as well. You have to do it when you can still access before drywall or else you have to cut a hole in the drywall after the fact. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5UmO1IwYGk0.html this video shows the installation.
Thank you for the Video... my question is about screwing the metal parts to the Top of the door, in my case it seems to split the wood even when I predrill pilot holes. The doors I wanted to install are Hollow... did you use Solid wood doors?
You’re welcome. Yes my doors were solid instead of hollow core. It seems like the top would have a couple inches of solid though even if it’s hollow core. Sounds like you may just have a door that has a very splitty piece of wood. I’m not sure what to tell you except maybe try pre-drilling it and getting a screw that’s bigger thread and a little more aggressive to hopefully hold it on better. I’ve never seen this done but you could think about maybe applying a little construction adhesive under it before fastening it to help hold it on better once it cures. Just a thought.
Paul, great video! I notice that you show adding the stop that goes onto the rail for the soft close at the very end. I didn't see you install the one at the other end for the soft open? I'm considering using this but my walls are finished. Ty
Yes this is kind of a follow up video. If you check my channel I have a video about the install of the soft close. You need to do it before the walls are finished or else you have to cut a hole in the wall to put them in.
Knowing that eventually the wheels will flatten out, or the soft close damper will fail, I cut out and installed a 6x9 mud-in flush access panel at the far end of the track on one side. You could do the same for a finished wall if you wanted to add the additional soft open feature/hardware.
@@danervin2530 Great Idea, but is it necessary? The only thing you need to access from the closed end is the stopper arm. Once it's installed, the only thing touching it is the plastic piece on the rolling soft open mechanism. If the rollers flatten out, or bearings jam up or whatever, we know they will!!, you can get to them from the opening side, just take the door off and loosen the soft close catch arm, then take out the rollers and replace them. Great system, just have to have the one piece done beforehand.
Do you need to finish the wall before hanging the door? I know the instructions say to finish the wall first, but if the door/pocket requires any adjustment, it'll be too late. What's your experience?
I suppose you could probably hang it and test it out and then take it back off. As long as everything is level and straight it should be OK without doing that because you shim your casing to make it straight with the door once it’s hung. But it’s pretty easy to pop it back off before hanging drywall and getting it messy if you want to make sure.
Did you use any bottom door guides? Typically I like to install the channel into the underside of the door (easier with 1-3/4'' thick doors) then put the guide pin on the ground. Johnson system just suggests routing a channel on the underside of the door without a channel and hiding the exposed groove with a cover plate.
I didn’t end up doing one yet. I haven’t gotten around to it. My one problem is I have concrete floor so I wasn’t sure how I was going to fasten it yet.
Great job. one question. It seems hard to pull the door open. I've seen pocket doors in others people's houses and always struggle to find the latch to pull the door open , especially ones with a soft close system holding the door tight. What pull system do you use to solve this?
Thanks. I know what you mean. I actually haven’t gotten around to installing it yet cuz life… I was going to install one like this with a built In pull. Idh by St. Simons 25411-10B Solid Brass Pocket Privacy Pull, Oil-Rubbed Bronze www.lowes.com/pd/idh-by-St-Simons-Idh-by-St-Simons-25411-10B-Solid-Brass-Pocket-Privacy-Pull-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze/5000746683
Paul, I enjoyed watching your videos on pocket door installation. I have installed a few myself in my home. You videos were detailed and answered a few questions I had around trimming them out. What is that grey color name that you painted in the second room towards the end of this video? Thanks -Kyle
Hey thanks Kyle. Do you mean the one on the other side of the pocket door where the towels are hanging? It’s kinda greyish blue. A lot more blue than it shows in this video. It’s a beautiful color. Did you see my latest walkthrough video? That shows it better. Anyways it’s a Lowe’s Valspar color called midnight fog ci197 but we got it with a satin Sherwin-Williams paint since they carry that as well.