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I’m looking to buy a new table saw. You use a DeWalt, right? Will it cut dados? Can you please tell me the model? A corded model is fine for me. Thank you.
I’m a 76 yr old woman. I’ve been wanting to to replace a worn pocket door for a decade. The carpenters I’ve had over (about 5) have told me it’s impossible! They have ALL said it has to be done when the walls are OPEN! Well! Guess what? After watching your video I’m going to do it MYSELF! I’ve installed a kitchen sink and faucet, rewire d lamps, made molding, and some other DIY things. With your excellent guidance I’ll just do the door! THANK YOU! 🌹
Good for you girl! You sound like me. I had a plumbing job once that required thinking outside the box, the plumber on site said it couldn't be done.....Next time he was over I explained exactly how it could be done. He's said "oh, I guess that would work". :)
If you’ve had “carpenters” that said a pocket door can’t be replaced, they are not carpenters. Possibly it’s what you are asking to replace it with that’s the problem. I’ve had clients insist that none of the trim be removed or a much thicker repurposed door be used without reframing. It is possible the customer does not understand what is required. I love when a client believes they have a better understanding of plumbing or electrical…from a RU-vid video. Not saying I too can not learn, but 99.9% of the time there is no understanding of the mechanics and requirements behind the systems.
I'm a damn good carpenter. I've put in the time and work and am a constant student of the craft. That being said, literally every time I watch you do something new or a technique I am unaware of, I am blown away by your understanding and ability. I have learned several methods and techniques from you that I genuinely use all the time. You are a level above, my friend.
Having set hundreds of pocket doors over the years, this is by far the best way to do them! Wish I had thought of it years ago. In my area we end up using the Johnson metal frames with a wood core 90% of the time. Attaching the split jambs to them is tasking. The "wet set" method would make it so much easier. Great video and explanation! Definitely going to implement on next install. Thanks
Great idea for the split jams.I could make one suggestion when installing the top split jam.I screw in the top split jam on the side with the door leveling adjustments nuts with screws with finishing caps.And I also do not nail the top casing to that jam.If the door warps or when the house settles or framing twists.I can readjust or remove the door with out doing damage to the finish trim. Happy wood working.I enjoy your channel.
Just the preview was enough for me to do improvements on how I hang pocket doors. Still watched the rest of the video for pure joy. Always great content! Thanks
Whatvi notice is your consistency to detail, no stone left unturned. I did my first mitre crown job last week. There were other contractors on site . They thought I had been doing this a while. I give ma y thanks for you share your years of knowledge to us. You made me look good. I will never tell them it was my first. Job came out very good. .details..details
I’ve been a production trim carpenter for 22 years, I installed three pocket doors this way today, I’m not sure if it’s faster but the quality is great and it’s a lot easier.
Oh I'm so glad for you. I live in Grand Junction CO and we have baseboard heaters out here, kin to radiators. In the Master's bath we have a baseboard heater and to the left of it is the linen closet with bifold doors. The doors are misaligned and are ganking up the wall. I am trying to convince my daughter to remove the drywall around the baseboard heater and install a pocket door. I am encouraging her to watch this video and your comment has encouraged me that this is possible to help her along.
I'm really liking your channel. I've been trimming custom homes for nearly 20 years with my two sons. A couple years ago they moved away so I'm on my own at 60 years old. Your videos have made me want to improve the quality of my work. I've learned some time saving, quality improving methods that I'm sure we'll separate me from the slam bang production guess. I've changed my " headed towards retirement thinking" to "I've got some good years left, make them the best". Thanks so much. Scott
Ok. That’s pretty awesome. I’ve probably hung 40 pocket doors maybe more . Usually 1 every now and then. That’s the slickest thing I’ve seen in a long time. Thanks
I started framing before you were born, started trim about when you were weaned and got into cabinetry probably about the time you got your training wheels taken off. I still learn tricks from you that make me wonder why I never thought of it. Keep up the clean work and keep teaching me!
Love the new intro style where you show the entire process, then explain it. Gives you an opportunity to take it in, then understand the instruction better.
After 40+ years as a commercial carpenter I know my way around the job site. But I always seem to find a new trick when working around my house by watching you. Thanks so much for your contact.
For those of us who might get aggressive with the adhesive, do you think it would make sense to put some tape on the door to avoid contact with the door surface if there is too much squeeze out?
If you can't stop yourself adding lots of adhesive, adding some tape would be safer, but for a professional doing so will add too much extra time. A professional would be better off calibrating their eye as to exactly how much adhesive (and where) is going to provide good support for the jamb, without any risk of extending pass its edge. In this case, you would need nearly 1/4" of squeeze-out to actually touch the door, but you really don't want gobs of hardened adhesive inside the pocket; an adhesive that sets rock-hard could scratch the door finish if it ever rocks inside the pocket.
You mentioned trimming up the slab with the track saw. Is that just to square up the strike edge of the slab or are you actually adjusting it to make sure the stiles have an equal reveal when the jambs are installed/shimmed and the door is closed?
U are insanely good, I developed a great method after 15 years doing high end finish carpentry, but this one is just sick. For paint grade trim there is nothing that can beat it
Dude, this is gold! A master ninja class,...you explain the "why" and the "how" all while you're filming yourself doing it.. Where is HGTV and DiY Network? You really need to go main stream. Your last few videos are totally next level!
When I’m trimming windows and doors I cut shims from various plywood’s and thin plastic. Use a divider in a bucket. Then I can shim any and all gaps ... but really like the adhesive idea.. need to incorporate it for sure
Great idea with the wetset technique. A few things I like to do to take pocket doors to the next level is... notch the flat jamb up into the track space to cover the framing...who wants to look at framing in a finished home? Another great upgrade is to dado the flat jamb 5/16" and slightly wider than the door so it sits into the pocket. This insures there is no gap if things move around in the future, it also balances out the look with the rest of the jambs. Lastly, I also set the guides on the inside of the split jambs so you can't see them or have them break. This of course is on cheaper pocket door hardware. Ideally I like to use a roller guide and a track set into the bottom of the door. Also on this level using a soft close mechanism is appropriate.
The editting, voice-over, and sequencing of this video is just as good as the content --and that's saying something! Keep up the fantastic work, Spence!!
I have seen and worked with some of the very best in carpentry. You are right at the top with them. Often, you one up them. Great video's. Great teacher. Keep it up Mr Lewis
Lived in the same house for 32 years. Had but one pocket door in the place. Probably had eight episodes of it jamming, coming off the track, getting cockeyed. It was driving my wife crazy. Finally one day when she was out of town, I sealed up the door with a piece of 1/4 inch flat trim, painted it, and my wife never noticed it until we sold the house. I hate pocket doors!
Wow buddy your my fav carpenter your next to norm Abram your my inspiration to be the best I can I think I'm gonna use that way I hate pocket doors but that will make it so much easier keep up the great vids 🙂
I wish the “trim carpenter” who did my house actually took pride in their work. Everything here is jacked and am having to fix things now that our house is getting older. Make sure the framers don’t do your trim.
Well done, I have only set a couple of pocket doors, and for sure I am not a pro. That being said, I also would probably use more dabs of glue and have it all over the damn place. More is better right? lol
Suddenly, I don’t hate pocket doors anymore. I always thought they had potential, but the struggles involved made them a nuisance… not no mo’. I may just have to slap one in my house for good measure. Thanks for the insight, Spencer!
I've been in this business for many years doing all different types of carpentry. I've learned a lot by watching and listening to your videos. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us it is much appreciated. I find it hard to believe that you don't wear safety glasses. I personally have avoided numerous eye injuries because of safety glasses. I've had one too many close calls especially working on the table saw. I do not should people. However I do believe safety glasses are a must when working with power tools. Thank you for the content that you produce and I hope you continue to do so!!!
Wow, cool. Some nice tips. I live in the Boston, MA. area. Everyone here installs pocket doors with one side removable. I don't think wet setting both sides would work for me. I like how you screwed the split jamb to the door. I know I have a pocket door coming up but I belive the it is prefinished oak. Maybe I could micro pin the split jamb to the door. Great video. Thanks for the ideas.
I leave one side of the head jamb removable (exposed screws), so that the door can be adjusted in the future, without having to blow the whole thing up. No fasteners from the head casing into that side of the jamb. Normally the painters end up caulking the jamb together, and caulking the casing to the jamb. Make sure you put the removable head jamb on the side of the door where the latches for the rollers are accessible. You can get the slab out and make any modifications needed.
Don't you just need one side of the head removable, not the "hinge side" split jamb? During this video I thought I could use this on stain grade doors by using CA glue blocks on blue tape (with activator) instead of screws. If you haven't tried that, it's an excellent way to get a removable but stong bond. You just apply some blue tape to the door edge, put some CA glue in the middle, spray activator on a block and hold it in place. To remove you hit it with a hammer then peel off the blue tape👌
Wow. Super cool. I've been doing this a long time and I've never seen a pocket door installed that way. I try to avoid pocket doors as much as possible because of how poorly they work overtime. I only watch 4 minutes in the video and I am on board. Nice work great job thanks for the video
Everything you do is high quality, from your carpentry work , to your video and editing! That says a whole lot . I learn a lot from your videos . Thank you so much . God Bless 👍🏼
I have to install a pocket door today and I knew reviewing your channel would save me hours of “reinventing the wheel”. Thank you so much for making this video. Just got home and can I say the pocket door looks better than everything else in the house. Thank you so much for the video!
This is the new SOP for pocket doors. With regards to adhesive I swear by Phenoseal Translucent. The translucent seems to have more glue than white. I don’t think it really cures any faster than PL 375.
great tip. one thing we do differently in my area is we use trim screws onone side of the split jams. this is extreamly helpful when you need to perform maitenance on the door.
Well that's what I was wondering about? Good point. Seems like I've seen door stop lightly nailed on one side for the same purpose, but that's a different look.
Thanks for posting. Great video! Couple of questions- I haven’t been satisfied with the offerings out there for the centralizers to keep the door from swinging sideways into the split jamb. What are you using here? Any recommendations? Also, that corner tool for mitering your casing is awesome. Which is it? Never seen hot glue used before. Good tips and tricks. Thank you Sir!
Love seeing the builder use 2x6 wall pocket doors. Everytime i install a 2x4 pocket i cringe. Especially when i know TILE is going on the pocket wall face
I saw you cut a shim with a utility knife, you better be careful, you may loose all credibility with some if you don’t cut all shims no matter how small with that loud obnoxious wonderful multi tool
I like your videos. I believe you do high quality. A couple of thoughts on the pocket door installs. I've started leaving one side of the top jamb removable so the door can be removed to paint or replace. Also, you need to remind people to shim the strike side to a point that leaves the proper remaining opening so door fits. We can't assume the framers left the proper opening. One other thing I've started doing is creating a groove in the strike side so as to hide any gap left from a loose fitting latch, especially on a bathroom scenario.
What's out there for a nice pull, recessed with a latch that's less than 3 digits! Not a fan of the square box store brands. But also dropping 300-600 a latch is absurd
Hell yeah! This makes so much sense, and I’m surprised I haven’t seen or thought of it before. Pocket doors are a nightmare you slowly perfect over time, but honestly I’ve never been 100% satisfied with my results. This seems like the solution. Thanks Spencer
You sir are a true craftsman. As a hack, I installed one pocket door and was just happy to see it slide into the wall. Your technique and attention to detail is orders of magnitude higher. Wish I saw your video first.
Great instructional video! Everything is there both in a sequential and clear manner. Suggestion, I just about clicked off during your initial speed up install at the front. Might add that the details are coming at what ever the minute mark is. Glad I waited!
Seems like a very good method. One question. I noticed you nailed both top split jam pieces on both sides. What happens if you ever have to take the door out or adjust it? I usually use finish screws on the top inside piece so you can remove that easily if need be to adjust and remove the door.
Why not duplicate your wet setting method that was used on the jambs on the closing side jambs also on the strike side? Keep the blocks attached to the door, slide it to the closed end up against your as yet to be set jamb. Attached the blocks to the jamb, slide the jamb to meet the stud. Use non expanding adhesive to compensate for any gaps and proceed as was done on the closing side. I went this way and the gaps between the door and jamb were easily removed.
Great video, thanks for the tips. Just a note, the music that comes in from 13:45 to 15:20 increases in volume too much. It is louder then you are speaking at times and distracting, making it makes it hard to hear what you are saying.
This is awesome! Interesting to put the feet on the outside of the split jambs, I was taught that it goes on the inside of the split jambs. I wonder how many other things I've been doing wrong. 🤔
You can definitely do it that way. It's what I saw being done in my market when I started trimming so I just kind of followed the lead of what I saw other guys doing. I've been looking at using floor guides also. But definitely takes more time.
*The trim crew is what makes a great interior because when we Painters would come in we would have to fix big gaps as we caulked and puttied out the house, then we would prime it all out top to bottom. Of course prepping all of the windows. After priming came the fun work of sanding her out. Great video man!!!!*
One thing we do when installing pocket doors is to cut a 1/4” groove on the striker side for the door to slide into, to provide a nicer finish when closed.
Great video. Very curious to see how you install the guides after trimming. I put them on after the door is hung and I hog out the back of the split jamb.
Such a good video. Very clear explanations and step by step process. Great camera work. Good use of high-speed. I like the idea of a time lapse installation intro. Many videos don't show the end product until a very brief shot at the end. It's good to have seen the target end product and then showing how you got there. I've installed pocket doors before and this is definitely a better process.
I love when someone is able to teach me something... at my age I'm not exactly a good student as I get set in my way of doing things. I very much appreciate your sharing of your experience.
I am not a carpenter and have "zero" carpentry skills, but I regularly watch your videos because I am mesmerized when viewing your skills and what has become a legendary teaching ability to share your knowledge. First class all the way! So help me out here, guys, and don't nail me to the wall for asking a dumb blonde question (I am a brunette). How do you get the door inside the opening once the doorway is framed? And how do you remove the door from the small opening if it would ever become necessary? Our son's home has a pocket door that leads to a major room in his house. It forever drives me wild to open and close it because it has reached a level of nightmarish dysfunction and has never ever been fixed correctly. I shared this video with them by email. I can only pray they find a solution by watching it! Keeping my fingers crossed!
Catching up on some earlier vids here. Awesomeness. Hello from Monday March 14 2022. ya got 156k subs and this vid has 578,505 views. Thanks Spencer for this delight of a channel and your incredible eye for detail. Hope your week is a perfect one.
I installed aluminum Cavity Sliders pocket door frames. Easy to install, no warping and buttery smooth operation. The split jambs you rip to around 1-1/4" wide and then rip a dado down the back of it and it snaps into the aluminum jambs with the provided clips. No worry about the track being off centered and no warping like wood frames. They are more expensive but you're going to get a perfect install if you just install the frame level and plumb as one piece of aluminum frame after easy assembly. Also great for heavy solid slab doors that break cheap rollers of the cheaper wood frame sets. I got the soft close option and it's awesome.
Just found your channel and subscribed..I’ve done a ton of pocket doors & thought I had it down but man I love to try something new..your wet jamb method is new to me..when you started screwing the blocks on I said wth is he doing then was like ohhh..keeps reveal at 1/4”, keeps plumb & flush with door & square..a lot of benefits for a little work..thanks..I installed 3 pocket frames today and got 4 tomorrow so I’ll be trimming them soon..can’t wait
Two things I would do differently on my pocket door installation are slanting the rail and using 3/4" ply backer. I have soft-close on both the open and closed ends, and it is phenomenal. My regret is the door sometimes is left partially open. If I had put a 1/2 slope to the closed end this wouldn't happen. It would simply close on its own. Holding it open would be accomplished by the soft close on the open end. It would also allow me to have the door nearly sitting on the transition while closed, but not have interference while opening. Also, instead of the bracing that comes with the kit, I'd use 3/4" ply. This would give a much better place for the brads in the trim to bite. Also, in my case, one side is the laundry room and I'd have the ability to have strong hanging points for the jackets and such without the workarounds I had to use. I do like the installation of the split casing. It was so fiddly for me.
I have to install a pocket door. I have done many of them in my life but I wanted to check RU-vid for new ideas. Wow! Glad I did. Wet setting is awesome. I love smart people! Thanks man. Needed this.
This video is incredibly helpful but man do I wish you did some videos on the nightmare commercial work that the people in the office dream up. Right now I'm being forced to set a pocket door with no split-jamb framing kit, using a hollow-metal pocket frame that's designed for a 3-5/8" wall but being used in a 6" wall, and without the door on site. We've expressed repeatedly how this isn't going to work but they just want to be able to rock everything regardless. It's basically turned into a drywall-wrapped opening with a HM frame back-screwed in it. The only thing holding the metal jamb spacing is drywall to the back-screwed studs in an out-of-plumb wall due to the three levels of headers due to all the mechanicals above ceiling. I'm curious to see how precise my guesstimates turned out, I sure can't wait until the doors show up a month from now (shoot me)
I do it different (not necessarily better) I pre-assemble my jambs and then I shim them it’s a lot faster to me anyway Also one thing I do that I noticed you don’t do it (at least not in your video) after i Plumb the door I take it out and I take out the rollers and I put a screw on the roller where the adjustable screw is to lock the adjustable screw in place Because I’ve had to go back a few times to reinstall a pocket that fell off the roller (not sure how but the adjustable screw screw it’s way out I’m guessing from people slamming the door for kids playing with the door I don’t know but after doing what I used told you no more going back at all . anyways thanks for your videos man I enjoy watching your work you’re a great Carpenter Greetings from Des Moines Iowa
cool.... You can do the same thing to hang pre-hung door jams.... I made a straight edge jig for a jam level with slots for shims to set 8 ft. pre-hung 1 3/4 super heavy doors. I plumbed the hinge side with shims and didn't have to take the door with ball bearing hinges off the jam.
