Awesome job, I honestly thought it was going to be more complicated to heatstain the exhaust but you sir have given me some faith in myself, thank you!!
Great work! Well it's really hard to nail that look, because it's so familiar. I remember (especially from bike exhausts, two stroke) the colors change a bit more randomly, are less saturated and the colors don't blend that smoothly in certain places. It looks to me similar like that rainbow effect of gasoline or oil on water puddles. A similar challenge is also a certain type of galvanized metal. It has those colored smears which are very typical. Not an issue in 24th scale though. Thanks for sharing your tips!
When the blue went on it was like alchemy, before that, I was going "What the blinkin' heck's he doing?" lol, nice one, Always been a bit of a tentative exhaust effects guy, maybe it's time for a more 'balls out' approach... inspirational stuff, ta K)
Great video, I have done this too, but at the end I sprayed some deluted smoke to softner the colors. Keep on going up with this usefull videos. Maybe you can make a tutorial how to make racing seatbelts?
I'm going to give this a try. I'm building the Fast & Furious Dodge Charger form Fanhome and thought this would be a great modification. I figure it's safe for a first timer: If it turns out great - Its bragging rights. If not - no one will know unless the car is turned upside down. And how often will that happen! 😅 I might kick it up a notch by cutting small strips from a Coke can to hide connecting joints - paint them to simulate a welding point.
Great work just 2 questions did you thin down the clear paints for the airbrush? The other one is how long did you wait before airbrush the next colour and so on make it look so easy excellent work 👍👌
Not to spoil your tread. But what you do here is a discoloration af titanium exhaust, NOT a standard iron tube exhaust as on the model. Well, the exhaust tips, are ok to do this with, but the standard exhaust dosn't get discolored after the header, it just get's rusty. It makes a more belivable model to use rust colours on all the "joints" of the exhaust, edges on the mufflers and like. That gives a much more realistic look. Normally i would use vallejo rust Air color, and some rust pigments, since the iron tends to swollow up where it rusts. You did a good job, but on the wrong subject.
+x3mperformace If i was replicating a stock steel exhaust, you'd be correct, though i'm not. I am trying to give it the look of an aftermarket titanium exhaust: www.motorworldhype.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/amuse_gtr_exhaust.jpg
I find that the welds rust more so the heat is harder to see unless your work is done for a newer car... But then this to me is over done at least for my taste. I been a Mechanic so I have seen many cars on the lift. If this work had been a third less to look this way I would of giving you an A... lol Nice work over all...
hello TSC, 1st really nice work on all your builds....I really love the paint jobs....I just started using a airbrush for my builds.....the application is so much better than spraying from a can. My question is where did you get that spray booth? or did you build it yourself.
I got it from Zero paints. But it has been sold out for over a year now. But there are a lot of other options out there if you search airbrush spray booth
Ok, so I'm about to do this tomorrow - but questions. (I'm new to airbrushing) The shaking. I get that its due to very little paint in the cup, but how many drops there abouts did you add to the cup, and wouldn't that little cause splattering? In terms of adding very little color to the part, why not just further away from the part with quick strokes?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Thanks. I completed part of the exhaust - and though I may have overdone it a little, I think it turned out great. From a normal distance, it looks good. Thanks for the tips!
Enamel is stronger(harder) and can resist scratches better. But it takes longer to dry. Acrylic dries fast and is better for your health. But a lot easier to scratch.
Hi thanks for the tutorial i have always wanted to try this but didn't know how. Btw will tamiya acrylic paints work or only the enamels? Also what thinner (if required) would be best to use?
Brayden Walker I just used these as i had them laying around for way to long. You can pretty much use any brand or type of paint as long as its a clear color(or candy). Use the apprpriate thinners for the brand. Tamoiya acrylic has its own thinner from Tamiya. Pretty much every paint brand has its own complete system with thinners and cleaners etc.
The Scalemodeling Channel Okay great. I did a lot of interior parts the other day and basically mixed it 1:1. Had great coverage, no runs, but I did have to shorten my trigger stroke because it was coming out really heavy. I'm used to seeing a huge fog from a real gun doing automotive panels so it's a bit of a learning curve for me. So far so good though.
Yes i did, otherwise it would not have gone through the aibrush ;) i used terpentine to thin it down. Wich most likely was not the correct one to use, but it worked :)
ELP Modelling Well, some can, but the ones i used where old(very old) so these could not be sprayed without thinning. The ones in the bigger circular bottles can in most cases be airbrushed straigh away without thinning.
