the best tutorial I found about hollowing. you saved me loads of money with this because i didn't know what I was doing wrong. Thanks and keep up the good work
Agreed!!! I’m a “ok, how do I do it and what are my risks.” This was exactly what I needed. Not showing a video for 30 minutes with 25 minutes of fluff. Nice!!
Excellent video. Cleanly and crisply delivered. I like how you started with a simple example and went to a more complex one. Saved me loads of resin, thank you. Loved the bg music too.
I am eagerly awaiting my first sla printer. Out of the hundreds of videos I've watched on the subject, yours was the only one mentioning the safety of hollowing and not creating potential bumps in the night. Thanks man, appreciate you...
You're quite welcome! I want to keep you guys safe with the hobby! I will be adding more content as often as I my free time will allow. Hopefully I can continue to share some helpful stuff! When you get that printer, hop into our discord! Everyone will gladly help get you on the right track!
I figure this stuff doesn't have to be so clinical. I try to bring a little tabletop gaming with the stuff I do cause I love it :) Glad you enjoyed the video
Thank very much for this great video. Im new at 3D printing, bought a resin printer few days ago and im learning every day, i would like to print one piece that has to be hollowed (to be lighter) and i dont know how to do it yet, but this video is for sure the best video i've seen to help me, i learned alot, specially in terms of safety to, great work, and thank you very much
TableFlip thank you for making this, I just started on the Resin side of things, coming over from FDM. And your explanations help me out a lot, I was printing everything solid because I was kind of scared to screw around with the hollow printing. Heard some horror stories, but now with this information I am going to start using it more.
G'day m8,.... i just got my first resin printer, a Nova3D Whale 2. its bloody massive and for the last week learning about slicing. This has given me a big curve ball, as iv just spent last 2 yrs learning to do FDM as im into Rc Crawling, so i want to build Bodys and parts. This resin side ya got the printer....thats the easy part...its learning the software🤔, so much extra to do an think about compared to FDM slicing. Iv chosen Lychee slicer as its more beginner friendly, offers more in the free version but happy to pay the small yrly fee or monthly to have pro. im 49 and learning this takes a while. but happy i found your vids....i just sat thru your beginners guide last night for 2.5 hrs but i learned much. Cheers m8 from Sunny Downunder🙃....pray to the 3d gods for me😇
Congrats on the new printer! There is a learning curve for sure. But a little practice and you're gonna get it. I'm glad my video was helpful! The calibration class will be a huge eye opener for you too.
hey man, this really helped me! just bought a used elegoo saturn. just you mentioning to flip the prints helped me a lot. Gonna try the hollowing later today! Keep it up!
Glass micro balloons, fused silica, talc or probably about any powder mixed with resin to the consistency of tooth paste makes a great filler for holes (except the permanent vent hole). I put it in a syringe with 1mm plastic tip to make it easy to apply. Keep the syringe in a dark place and it will last a long time.
Great video with very detailed explanations! That's crucial imo for understanding (and remembering) what & why. I wonder now, for internal cleaning & curing if a syringe with needle (for injecting IPA) and perhaps few optic threads can be inserted even in smaller holes to allow the UV light to reach deeper inside the model (the outside ends of the threads could be wrapped together and a uv light put behind them). I also wonder what would be the thinnest walls that can still produce a medium strength figure? Actually I attempted some hollowing before watching this video (with chitubox) and it worked fine with 1.2mm walls (and 1.5mm holes, thought the holes should be bigger to allow IPA easier access inside, I had very limited option for the holes, so I put them in the throat and ass of the gryphon I printed ... at least they look natural :D) At the same time I also tested supports even thinner than the default Light ones (in Chitubox), so I made them 0.6mm, and I had only 1 fail from 3 models - again the very tip of the gryphon's beak was supported by one of the longest supports and apparently it snapped mid-print, so now the beak is slightly crooked. Obviously 0.6mm is too thin, but isn't that bad, perhaps 0.8mm would be fine.
THANK YOU honeslty learned more then I needed. ALSO love the music in the back ground its like meadivle and it fits ur beard, sorry if its wierd. But ur like the blacksmith of knowledge.
This was an amazing video , thnx so much for sharing your brain with us. I have a question about cleaning , could you use standard syringe and inject the cleaner inside and repeat a bunch of times? I have a model I would like to hollow out because it would save a ton of resin , does this also cut down on printing time ? If I do it as a solid print it says it would take 33 hours to print it .
Im so glad you found it helpful!! \ Hollowing doesnt affect printing time at all. Print time is based on the height of the print. 33 hours means you're printing at like 20um (in my opinion, totally not necessary, but if you feel you must, then thats ok too) Most people seem to print at 50um. You can use a syringe if you'd like for sure. Any way you can get the internal cleaned is what needs to be done. I use a sonic cleaner myself, but if you dont have one, then Syringe works. Make sure you're agitating it too.
Is there a need to place a hole at or near the last point that will print ( in your example, the top of the head) so resin can drain while and after printing. I find filling a small hole is very easy and doesn’t take much work. It would also be helpful to hear your thoughts on infill, % needed, pattern. At this time I use the non Pro version of Lychee, only been printing about 30 days, Elegoo 3 Pro, Siraya Tech Navy Gray w/ 10% Tenacious, success rate pretty good.
This does carry some logic to it, but its not "necessary" to do. there will inevitably be some reason inside the hollow as a result of not putting a hole at the top, but you can drain that back into your vat if you wish by hand. In a lot of cases, a hole at the top will ruin the aesthetic of the model. If you have a scenario where it wont, its a good idea.
I purchased a 3D print about 4 years or so ago and it was hollow with no holes. I had left it in my garage overnight and I came out the next day and it had split open and leaked resin all over. Goad I do my own prints now days.
Just a thought. What about making a small enough hole that a pipette will fit in. The tip is small and you can squeeze it to blast the ipa into the inside of the model. Just thought of this while I was going to sleep.
I'm trying out this hollowing but end up getting more suction detection when add the holes I've added as many as feel possible next step would be actually through the torso it's getting on my nevers now lol
I printed out 1/6th model a few years back. Was one of my first prints. One day I was sitting there and her head cracked open and leaked out runny resin. Scared the crap outta me.
I love lychee. However they have a lot of issues slicing really large models. It’s sad my printer is a kobra2 max and lychee can’t slice that big. It crashes every time.
i`m completely confused. Why not simply use the hollow-2D function with infill? I always use it and never had a problem. I also never had to support anything from the inside because Lychee takes care of that issue by printing large squares as supports. And i fill all my larger prints with plaster... I´m pretty sure there won´t explode anything later
You totally can use 2d hollow with infill if you want. Infill is a waste of material though. If you're using infill then it must be hard to fill the model with plaster and also, I've never heard of anybody filling their prints with plaster so I think it's safe to say that you're the exception and not the rule. Prints 100% will explode if sealed with uncured resin inside.
@@TableFlipFoundryWell the infill material is like cents. And if you put your time of supporting the inside into account and those support blockers, its like 20 times cheaper... And i´m pretty sure that prints will not explode when you fill them with plaster. Since there is no air left to expand
Hey Ty, is there a trick to zooming in and going inside the model, I was just testing here with a model that I've hollowed out. Need to be in support mode and just zoom into the model?
On the layer slider if you mouse over the slider there is a button that says up or down. If you click that it will flip the way it slides through the model. This should give you access to place internal supports easily.
This is pretty broad. It's possible you didn't actually resolve the suction cup, but its also possible that lychee has yet another bug. The suction cups aren't persistent through saves. Meaning you can close and open the lys and they should be gone.... I think.
The small bases are hard to get off the build plate with a spatula. The triangular bases just shatters most of the time this is currently the best raft available in my opinion.
@@TableFlipFoundry Ok, and what about if you're using a Wham Bam build plate system? Would that work better just to print a flat bottom base to the Wham Bam...instead of building a raft? It seems basically the same thing? Flat bottom.
He i have a question. I went pro and now when i go to print off the usb, my sm8k sees the file but when i click print, it says “file cant be found”. I tried the chess example that came with the printer and it went on tho print. I used two different usb. Resliced multiple times. The only change is upgraded to pro
These printers use the Chituboard I believe so they use a CTB file, but there are different versions of CTB. Also, with my Epax E10 8k, I had to update firmware on the printer in order for it to recognize the files. It might require a talk with Phrozen.
You cannot export a 2D hollow to STL. 3D hollow can be exported. Also, you cannot see internally with a 2D Hollow so placing internal supports will be more difficult.
@@TableFlipFoundry but it´s also unnecessary to support it from the inside. The algorithm adds rectangle "supports" by itself. So if i understand correct, this tutorial is more for people that want to sell their own miniatures pre-supported, rather than people who want to print their minis...
TableFlip Foundry, Too bad you didn't try that with the Lychee Slicer Beta Version! with Mac OS Ventura Intel iMac then with an Anycubic Vyper to print, with this attempt I get an error message. You cannot help me any further.
