In this video i go thru the tools needed and the steps i use to hone a 2 stroke cylinder. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe to our channel / ericksonsmandp / ericksonmap247 ericksonmap@gmail.comwww.iride247.com
Its nice to see someone who really knows how to do this the correct way.. I do it very similar just manual wich is little less accurate but works good.. With two stroke cylinders its hard to get them honed perfectly near the ports
I learned a lot from you. I have successfully rebuilt 2 stroke outboards with my Kwikway boring bar and sunnen an112. Information on honing cylinders isn’t easy to come by but you set me up for success and I thank you for that. Wish I could meet you in person and see your setup
Currently rebuilding my Kdx220r and this video is more than welcome ! thank you very much ! If i wasn't this far, i would've sent you my cylinder, can't beat a pro ! And btw, 2strokestuffing sent me ;)
Great content Mark! Subscribed. Reminiscent of the OG articles from Klemm and Grabowski in the early Pwc mags. Good stuff! Gotta keep the 2 stroke alive!
Love your videos, Mark! They have helped me tremendously. I am in the process of doing a full tear down of my '99 Sxi Pro. I have the motor out and ready to rebuild, but I am actually planning to send some work your way, if possible. I'll be in touch! Thanks again!
A lot to learn here, thank you for taking the time to share. I was surprised how quick each step of the process was if you know what your doing, I obviously don't. Can you tell us what kind of quick release nuts those are on your fixture?
Ive been veey inspired by your videos and am doing a cast liner in a summit 800. The issue I am having is getting proper hone depth at the bottom of the cylinder. Because the hone is just shorter than the cylinder its doing the middle more than the edges as well. How do you counteract this?
I seen you checking the cylinder to make sure it wasn't egg shaping. I have experienced this before when honing. What do you do to correct this if it does start to egg shape? Alao, what's your most common grit finishing stone, 220 or 280?
Finish has do do with rings used. That's not a simple answer. It can vary on what the intended use is. As to egg shape it happens from time to time. Could be varying sleev hardness uneven wear, ect. Then there is also hour glass and barrel shaped which requires dwelling in spots of the bore or increasing or decreasing pressure on the stones.
What surface roughness is the best for 2 stroke single ring piston geometries? What do you use to measure the surface roughness? Have you ever honed smaller RC engines like say an OS MAX .60 or 10 cc engine? The cylinder liners are apparently tapered toward the top for better sealing. Does this work on 250 cc sized engines? It looks like you spin a wheel on the hone shaft to vary the size of the hone diameter. When it squeaked, you tweaked it a bit. If you tighten this too much, will it cut/grind/hone faster? If so, how tight to set it?
Here is a video that explains it well. There is no set # they all vary on size and application. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a_uAm8LpW1c.html Your looking at multiple numbers Ra, Rpk, Rvk, Rk If you want email me ill be happy to help. I have worked on .5 and above rc engine
Hello, What grit flex hone would you suggest for chainsaw cylinders with cast iron liners. I will be rebuilding several saw engines soon and not sure what grit to use to freshen up the cylinders. Thank you-just subscribed!
Sunnen make two stroke hone stone/guide sets. I used to teach it at MMI (2000-2011.6) It's relatively easy to get 0.0001" tolerance round and parallel even with the drill motor version of Sunnen (in fact, I find it easier as you can feel the slightest torque variation if there is a 'tight' spot) You do need a good low speed drill though , I think 450 rpm is max on a 2.5"~55mm bore IIRC?
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Ah, I thought they were from a different manufacturer. Honing machine is way less tiring to use if your doing several cylinders a day. Nice set up you have.
@@123ABC-Machine-Basics Is the question for me? Personally I have AMMCO and a low rpm high torque drill. (max 400rpm) Sunnen are way more easily available though and also a lot cheaper than AMMCO for parts/consumables
Do you recommend putting case sealant around the lips on the outside crank seals? I just spent a lot of time rebuilding a 1999 Yamaha GP1200 Waverunner only for the PTO side crank seals to blow out within a day. Frustrating!
The 701 assembly video shows the direction the seals go. The big mistake people make is putting the seal with the tits on the inside when its the outside seal
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Excellent! I have a Sunnen Honing machine that will hold that same tolerance, but I am limited to a 2.500 inch bore max size because I don't have any larger mandrels.
It will work to deglaze cylinders and help chamfer ports. In general we only use them to hone the edges of the chamfered ports( basically deburr the chamfered port) if it doesn't clean up in a handful of strokes stop and use a rigid hone
Yes. On the solid case iron cylinders like the 440 or 550 they are used. On alot of the pwc 2 strokes they aren't needed because there is Zero deflection
@@EricksonMachinePerformance Thank you Mark. I have 12 IAME 100 cc air cooled go kart engines. They have a 48.2 mm bore and a sleeve that is12mm thick and uses case bolts to hold the head on. Just like a Harley engine. I am not sure if I should be using a torque plate when fitting new pistons.
@@harleylif1929 bore it . Hone it perfectly round BUT .004 undersized. Bolt the head and drill and tap a base plate or just a few aluminum squares to use a nuts (basically) torque it and check with a .0001 bore gage to see if anything moved. If it did you need to use torque plates. If it didn't you don't need them
@@EricksonMachinePerformance One more question if you dont mind. IAME says piston clearance should be .0035 to.0037 and replace piston when clearance is .004. The big engine builders are setting clearance on this engine at .005 to ,0052. I have found the extra clearance makes shorter piston life. why are they making the bigger clearance?
Diamond hones are mainly used for high production or Nikasil plated cylinders. I have found i get a better finish with stones on high performance engines. But there are tons of different options out there.
Very good video. Lots of good pointers.... I personally like to use a low speed drill motor (using one of those Goodson honing tanks) and do it by hand so I can FEEL the torque and cutting action in my hands. I find that this gives great tactile feedback. You can literally feel when a bore is barreled or bell-mouthed in your grip. But I mainly work on much smaller bored (46-52mm kart racing motors). I have always been personally able to get better results by hand than on a horizontal rigid mandrel machine like an MBB...where you lose that hand feel. Have you compared the profile results from brushes vs using a really fine stone, like 500-600 grit? Also, how often do you use truing sleeves to maintain the stones? Nice work....
@shooter7a my hone is not a power feed. I hand feed it, but the arm is counterbalanced. I used to use a drill that worked well, but it's way faster and easier to hone cylinders when you can set a bottom and top stop in the stroke. Both will do the job well. It depends on home many cylinders you do a day.
@shooter7a truing sleeves are more of a rod hone thing. Main thing is to flip your stones. It's all a learning curve. First your learn to make things round. Then you learn to make ur equipment last. As to the brushes and stones. They are used for different reasons. We have tested the finishes of all our processes. The brushes are used as a final set to help clean the iron out of the crosshatch
@shooter7a lastly. Using a rod hone on smaller stuff is common. You can get a great finish with them, BUT it's a much more dangerous operation. Alot of people get messed up doing it that way. ( unfortunately I've seen the aftermath a few times over the years with friends in the industry) holding a cylinders while honing can get someone hurt. It's a much better practice to have the cylinder mounted and have the honing head move instead
@@EricksonMachinePerformance I use a one of those Goodson GSE-1300 Small Engine Honing Tanks (cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1418/7084/files/GSE-1300.pdf) ....it is similar to the tank for your hone...has a similar clamp fixture and an oil recirc system. The clamp holds the cylinder at at an adjustable angle, so you can get the right angle and really stabilize a drill motor...
how would you deglaze a 48.2mm 100cc cylinder in which the port edges cannot be altered from spec? basically the edges must stay sharp as from the factory as this is an engine for a spec racing category. iame italian engine 16000 rpm with a chrome ring
@@EricksonMachinePerformance just tired of sending a good engine out to get a new piston installed. I have not done it myself in the fear of the new ring not seating correctly. if possible, i would just like to deglaze and fit a new piston myself in between full rebuilds.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance wont that chamfer one side of the ports making the port edges different from one side to the other? will that affect performance? what grit would you recommend for a rigid hone?
Yeah that's not necessarily correct so using carbide is really the industry standard for porting but if you're porting a plated cylinder it can peel the plating. So if it's a plated cylinder a lot of people use diamond tooling tooling but if you're going to port a plated cylinder your best bet is to strip it port it and then replate it anyway. standard cast iron liners there's no problem porting with carbine it's what everybody does.
When it comes to honing $40 is pretty cheap. But that being said machine work and machining is expensive!! I probably have +$10,000 in hone stones and fpex ball hones. And that's not including the machines or the tooling. Alot of times if you just need you engine done its cheaper to pay someone then buying the right tools for the job But I do understand money is tight for people
What happens if your bit runs when porting? Is it OK as long as it's not above the exhaust where it builds compression? I've been told it's no diffrent than a scratch that's been in there years, as long as the ring does not catch it and it's below where it builds compression
There is very little tension on the balls that are attachedto wires. This has been a tried and true method for +30yrs. It's basically a sand paper ball rubbing on cast iron. I have done over 20,000 holes over the the last 20 years with this method . It works without issue. Thanks for watching
Now that being said you need to use the correct size ball hone for the bore. They are made different sizes for different bores. With a different 1 every 1/4" or so.
Ive been veey inspired by your videos and am doing a cast liner in a summit 800. The issue I am having is getting proper hone depth at the bottom of the cylinder. Because the hone is just shorter than the cylinder its doing the middle more than the edges as well. How do you counteract this?
