Jerry You are so informative on how to do anything , And to top it all off you make me laugh, you are funny and thats i think because of your honesty . keep it up
Why don't you turn the sweatshirt around the other way so that the body of the sweatshirt is toward the front, rather than the back of the machine? If necessary you can turn the design around in the machine via rotation. Personally I have never placed the body of a sweatshirt to the back of the machine on either my six needle or ten needle. I have always thought the beauty of the machine is that you can place all of the bulk to the front rather than the back whereas on a flatbed embroidery machine you are trapped and really do have to make sure things you don't want embroidered stay clear of the needle.
I appreciate your videos. I have watched many of them numerous times to remember what to do. I have a question about the 8x13" might hoop and wanting to do a portrait size pattern on a sweatshirt that is 10.86" tall. and use the Hoop Master table that looks like a shirt to ensure proper placement. I only see how that is effective for landscape patterns, as the pattern will have to be embroidered "on its side" and not facing me.
I love watching your channel! I have a question. I love my mighty hoops but my 5x5 doesn't center correctly on my Brother 1055x. I have like 3" on the left side that the machine doesn't pick up. I tried redoing the hoops etc and making sure screws are tight but to no avail. Do you have any recommendations or have you run into this?
question...why couldn't the sweatshirt be hooped and loaded so that the bottom of the sweatshirt (bulk) be to the front of the machine? I have never used a multi needle so just curious. Thanks
Thanks for your kind words! Yes, you can use he Hooptech Clamping system with the Babylock/Brother 10 needle. I use their hat hoops - and they do great - but I do not have their clamping system. Hoop Tech has great how-to videos on their products.
Hi Raymond - sorry just now getting back to you. I use my HoopMaster hooping station for almost everything. It makes hooping items so much easier, since it anchors the stabilizer.
I have a Brother 1055X and have 7.25 and 8x13 frames. Hoopmaster says to put the tab at the bottom for the 7.25 and put the tab towards us for the 8x13. Do you do that? And second problem when I use the camera and the machine around the frame it rubs a lot underneath, on the front and I'm afraid it will tear everything off. Do you also have this problem? I also have the Brother extension table but I'm hesitant to use it because when you want to make a jacket, there's no more room to put the garment in the back.The Tubular Hoop Support for Brother really looks more practical. Does it fit on my machine as I don't have a hole underneath. Answer me please. Thank you
Hi Cathy! Yes, when using the 8x13 Mighty Hoop, the tab of the hoop needs to "us". If the tab is up against the machine, the hoop will not completely fit into place on the machine. (I had this happen a few times when I first got my Might Hoops...wondered why it would not fit onto the machine. I had the bottom ring/tab "away" from me...) I have not observed any rubbing when using Mighty Hoops. I have had it with a couple of hat hoops, but the few marks simply wipe away. And just today, April 11, I ordered the Tubular Support from Mighty Hoops. I am anxious to receive it. It will be in a new video...with a nice surprise. After embroidering on fleece blankets and having to stand and hold them, due to their weight, I ordered the Tubular Support. :-) I have a Brother 1050, not the 1055. I would imagine the tubular support would work on the 1055.
I have the 10 needle Brother PR1000 which is similar to your machine. Which hoops would you suggest that I start with? I want to do Logo's on the front and then bigger maybe 9 x 9 on back of jackets and sweatshirts.
It would depend on what items or sizes you would like to embroidery. I started off with the 5.5 size, which works great for chest-sized placement. I also purchased the 8x13, which works well for front or back of sweatshirts/jackets.
Hi Brenda! I do not have the tubular support...yet. :-) If I am embroidering on blankets or towels, I will use the table attachment. If it is a bulky item or something I am concerned might get "caught", I will stand and support the item while it is embroidering. Plus, that way, I can keep a close eye on it, just "to make sure" a/k/a baby-sit it. :-)
Hello, thanks for all your tutorials, they are very helpful. Do you ever hoop towel, bags or things that can not fit on the hoopmaster frame? could you tape a video on hooping these items in the edges? Thanks
Maybe this wasn't necessary to demonstrate hooping, but since that is an after market hoop, don't you have to tell the machine where "center" of the design is, hit the camera button, and move the machine to the center, then do a trace?
Hi Kathryn. With the 5.5 Mighty Hoops, which are my go-to size for chest-sized placement, the machine just "knows" and the design is centered. However, I do use the camera feature a lot, just to make sure the design is where I would like to be.
Hate mail for you but constructive I hope. I must say I do not agree with much of your process. To midigate overlapping of material and sewing two sides of garment on a large garment like you have chosen enter garment through neck and let the garment hang away from the machine. With a small design and such a large opening in neck there will be no problem. As far as your magnetic hoops and backing set up time is money and with a conventional hoop in your case lining up with neck is fail proof. At shows I have seen magnetic hoops fail on heavy cotton coats at speeds of 820 stitches per min so I stay with the screw down hoop. Use tailors chaulk and a ruler to measure for centre for embroidery on large designs and use shoulder/siding sewing of garment to line up hoop. Solvy is only necessary when embroidering on sheer or light poly garments with fine lines and in situations where puckering may be a possibility. Your process completing hundreds of garments with a high stitch count would not be cost effective. Twenty years of embroidery have taught me time is $. Quality is doable in a much easier process in better time frames. Hope this assists.
