Jerry, this was an awesome informative video comparing these two products. I have the Gen 2 and was debating on the new flat brim. After watching your video and since my work is only for personal use I think I will save my money and just hang with the GEN 2. 😊you are an excellent teacher and I love your demonstrations as they are so detail. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge with us.
Personally, my go-to is the Brother universal or what they used to call the flat brim hat hoop. I use it all the time. The Gen 2 was my go-to. The Gen 2 is fantastic for hooping hats, with its T-bar hooping station, but I prefer how close to the brim I can get with the Brother.
@@mancaveembroidery I thought the big draw for the gen2 was that you can get closer to the brim then the brother? I'm finding my brother hat hoop so difficult, I can't seem t do the structured caps
Hi Jerry, great vid ... I have a pr680w ... is there anyway to increase the embroidery X/Y parameters without using the override clip from the hooptech gen 2 hat hoop?
You can also make your own override clip! I have used a guitar pick - some have used a very small binder clip. With the guitar pick, I made a small hole in it for the fastener to go through - will be the left side screw that attaches the hat hoop assembly to the machine. The sensor is just to the right of this left fastener. The guitar pick, or similar item, will press down on the sensor. If you do not see the "hat" icon on the screen and you see the "hoop" icon, you are good to go. There is also a small sensor on the back of the hat hoop assembly that attaches to the machine. It is rectangular and has two small screws in it. You will need to remove the two small screws and the small sensor/magnet. Let me know if you have any questions!
Just came across your video. I couldn't remember how to fit my embroidery frame back on after using my cap frame. Not only did you show me that but you also showed me how to correct an error on my machine which I too have regularly. Thank you so much. 2 fixes for the price of one.
My valiant threader is making a dreadful noise when threading just a few of my needles. It still threads them but Im afraid I’m going to break something! I don’t want to start bending the wire that goes thru the eye because it seems to be aligned since the needles are being threaded. But that’s the only advice I can find. Do you have any other advice? Appreciate your threading video and any other help!
Jerry - You are ALWAYS my 'go-to' guy for any of my Brother 1055x questions and frustrations. Thanks for this video. It was a lifesaver. My design was 3.5" wide and it would NOT let me use the 100mm x 100mm hoop until I listened to your suggestions. Thank you Thank you.
Change to larger hoop notification occurs after vibration of machine causes the small middle screw on frame gets loose. I just retighten the screw and no problem. I remember how frustrating it was before I figured this out
Change to larger hoop notification occurs after vibration of machine causes the small middle screw on frame gets loose. I just retighten the screw and no problem. I remember how frustrating it was before I figured this out
Great Video Jerry! I needed this video. Broke my needle, turned the wheel in the back because part of the needle was in the bobbin area. The broken part fell right out. The video was great!
Hi Jerry just came across this video while trying to hook my gen 2 hat system to my brother or 1050. I got it all on but it was hitting something in every direction. Any suggestions to what I did wrong. I did the scan fearture so maybe that was the problem??
Thanks for your note! You can purchase it directly from Mighty Hoops, www.hoopmaster.com. Another great source of information on Mighty Hoops is on Facebook at "Let's Hoop It Together". You can order directly from Cathy on this page - she often has free shipping on orders.
Jerry I’m having issues doing structured caps. The design always looks tilted. I was told it’s how the hat is hooped but I do everything the way you’ve shown. Does the sweatband lay over the front metal? I always see even when the t bar is pulled there is a gap when I remove the cap. Any tips would be appreciated.
I saw where ya sent a note saying ya had a Pr1055 but then I somehow deleted the rest of the notification...I am sorry about that....but I did want to say that I have enjoyed watching your videos...they are helping me understand all that the 10 needle will do. Thanks!
I started off with the original wide hat hoop from Brother. Then I purchased the Gen 2 hat hoop. Hooping hats is made super-easy with their T-bar hooping system! It's a great product. Using the Gen 2, I was able to embroidery approximately 3/4 of an inch away from the bill, which is an improvement over the original wide hat hoop. Then I purchased the new flat brim/universal hat hoop. This is my go-to hat hoop due to the fact I can embroidery within 1/4 inch of the bill. The Gen 2 is much easier to hoop hats, but the ability to embroider closer to the bill is the "win" I was looking for with my embroidery jobs. Both great products!
This worked the first time I had this trouble. I just went to use my largest frame and no matter what I tried it won’t work. If you have any other tips I would love to hear it!
Do you have a solution for the exact same problem on the Solaris? Took it to the shop and of course it didn’t do it there. Brought it home and sure enough it’s doing it again.
Thanks for your note. You may want to check with your local Brother/Babylock dealer. There are also numerous other vendors that sell these products. Prices may vary from dealer to dealer.
Have you used the Gen2 Frame with the Brother jig? That's where I'm struggling. Kinda don't want to spend $400 for the T Bar because I just don't do enough hats to make it worth it.
