How to Improve Print Quality on Bambu Lab 3D Printer! 

Check out this video showing AMAZING print quality on my P1S: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z6u_gWQ7b_I.html

A fully informative video without the filler. Very thorough, very appreciated.

This was actually very helpful thank you!

Great video. Straight to the point. Thank you!

Just got a shipment notification for my P1S... Good timing. Thank you for this

I just got a P1S printer and have been using it daily for a week for prototype utility stuff. Now that I started printing something I wanted to look nice, I started noticing the stuff that looks off. I had no idea that the Calibration tab in Bambu studio is used for the filament settings. I've been trying to manually change settings and test over and over and over. Thank You.

you tripped me up saying that outer layer I was like THE HELL!? lol Love the video good stuff man!

Slowing down the outer wall to 60 made a huge difference! Thanks. Also doing the Flow Dynamics Calibrations but not sure what difference it is making. thanks!

I eventually figured out that I needed to "Tram" {manually bed level) my machine. Doing that, atop what you've outline here has me printing beautifully at Ludacris speeds. Very satisfying.

Nice video, getting my p1s soon and this is quite informative.

Also, run a temperature tower BEFORE doing the calibrations you mentioned. The thermistors have an accuracy that isn't very tight from my observations, so they can be off by a couple of degrees. I found the default temperature for BL filaments is not the best setting for my particular printer. I run a couple degrees cooler than the default value.

I have a sponge that i used to clean my other print beds with, that had a but of gluestick on it. When i spray Isopropyl alcohol on them and wipe with the sponge, there is just a very thin layer of glue left, minimal. Now i use the sponge on the P1S, before every 5th print i just spray the build plate, wipe with the sponge and its clean, with a super small Film of glue (i think 🤔) at least feels like it. Have never had an bed adhesion problems on my P1S so far 😊

Good to know, cheers!

Doing this did help some. I was very disappointed at the print quality of mine compared to my old mk3s+ using default settings. Though I do print primarily in petg. I've also turned down volumetric speed, and all the print speeds to about half of the standard settings. Alot of tuning and tweaking. I believe the update did help the vertical fine artifacts, as it was pretty bad before the update.

Do you need to do the calibration for each color if I got an AMS ?

Ya dun goofed not using the default hotend, everyone gonna tell you your prints look bad without realizing its not the 0.4

Excellent video! I'm running this test now and the quality of the area where the number is printed for each block has significant quality differences between them, more so than the test block itself (e3d 0.6 nozzle). Should the quality of the number and the small area around them be taken into consideration for this test as well when the rest of the blocks are all very close in quality otherwise?

Did the flow dynamics thing and saved the value with the best line. But the value in the AMS did not update.

im a total beginner and i only have my printer 3 weeks... but my first print out of the box benchy looks way better than your AFTER... also i learned orca slicer is alot better for filament calibration... it lets u test max volumetric flow and temp tower too... sure u can do in bambu too if u got the file but orca has it build in...

Happy Sunday!! Thanks for the vid. I will be calibrating this am. What plate adhesive did you use, if any in performing the calibration grid @ 2:14?

Good video

I don't own a Bambu. I have several Creality and 2 Voron printers. I found your video very well thought out and pleasantly quick and to the point without any unnecessary time wasting tom foolery that drives me crazy at times. Also - I think this video would be very useful and fully compatible with many more printers than just the P1S. You might consider changing the title and opening this up to a much wider audience. However - I don't think I've owned a printer that didn't produce a better result than your final product on that Benchy. I find myself wondering if maybe something might be loose on your printer or maybe you would benefit from slowing down even just a little some of the other print moves. I also wonder if you printed a temp tower? It could be that you're just a little too hot. Please take this comment in the context it was intended. Just trying to be helpful. I'm not a Bambu hater and possibly may own one someday. I've seen some amazing results from those printers. Happy Printing and looking forward to Part 2. 😉

great video explaining perfectly what it says in the title........ I don't know what the benchy quality control police are doing here

Do you need to do this for all 4 AMS filaments or once you dial in one (and all of the filaments are the same type/brand) you can apply that profile to the other 3 filaments? I would imagine if you're mixing brands / types then you might want to do it for each since not all PLA/PLA+/etc are the same between companies..

Hmmm. I watched this video a month ago and decided recently to try out Flashforge 5M non pro printer with COR XY and touch screen. My benchies out of the box look much better than these and for only $300. I always wanted a Bambu X1C, but after the issues my good friend is having with it. Plus the price was a personal factor. We’ve compared our benchies along with other prints and my cheapo Flashforge looks better. I don’t know why that is out of the box.

1.05 firmware has a number of bugs being reported on the forum. I'd wait. The 1.05.01 has an issue with seams when noise cancellation is on that's being reported by numerous people. I'm holding off for another release.

the filament clibartion do i need that for the a1 because of its inbuild flow calibartion?

Did your quality drop when moving from .4mm to .6mm? Will you bounce back and forth between the .4 and .6mm? Also if you did this for the Hardened steel hotend, are you going to post a video of swapping for the hardened steel extruder wheel also?

Liked the video. My Benchy came out looking like your 2nd straight from the box... hmmm.

Been thinking about getting of these printers but after watching this video I'm wondering, if you have to do filament calibrations of the specific OEM Bambu Lab filaments, does this mean that attempting to print with other makes of filament is much harder of out of the question to do? So far I love all of the features of these Bambu 3D printers but if printing with other name brand filaments is this much of a hassle it may be a deal breaker.

You can clean your build plate with isopropyl alcohol as it cleans grease or any residue and evaporates as it dries.

I almost wanted to buy a P1S as a replacement for my old Anycubic I3 Mega S, but the quality of the calibrated benchy really disappointed me. I mean, my i3 takes double the time but the quality is far better?

i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S

It may just be me, but my out of the box prints were flawless. I am not sure what I could do to change things to make it better. How do your benchies look so bad. Even the better quality one. Not trying to be harsh, just not understanding how it is so bad?

Do you have to that every time or it safes so you don’t have to do it ever again?

There is literally spaghetti in the drain when he is washing the plate. 😂

So you have to do that for every color?

This needs done for every filament?

OK, then I was probably lucky, my P1S is standard, after small adjustments for the filament everything works great and my print quality is perfect!😅😊

The odor layer?

I didn't even calibrate after the update and my benchy doesn't look that bad

Does this work for any printer also or is this just a bambu thing?

Oater layer? Canadian?

Can I just do this with single filament as I dont have an AMS. And BTW, that benchy looks terrible. Mine looks way better straight out of the box. Why do you say that it looks good? That to me is not a good benchy at all, especially coming from a Prusa. I miss my Prusa's. For quality that is and not speed. 🙂

what's an odor layer?

no idea bambu had this bad quality thats suprising hopefully my upgrade from elegoo isnt this bad

2x speed is niice

@2:01 the stock .02 setting was more consistent than .019. The latter has a little gap close to your pen tip. The improved benchy looks worse than a $150 stock ender 3. I wonder what the issue is. I really want to buy into the hype of these printers, but when I actually look at the prints people are getting, I'm very unimpressed.

Odor layers? Dude must be Canadian

I was watching this video and I do find it pretty pointless... you are printing at 0.6 in this video, and 0.36 high, I don't think you are normally printing at these settings, at this numbers the prints are horrible regardless... you shoudl show at default settings, the ones you have at day1, before and after the update

Did not see any quality increasing, your benchy is still horrible. Maybe need to dry filament or replace nozzle

4:03 One thing to further improve your prints: Change the Bed Type to "Smooth PEI Plate" - This is the correct setting for the golden plate you are using! The "Textureds PEI Plate" option is for the black PEI bambu is using with P1P and applies a -0,04 parameter to your Z axis, creating the noticable elephants foot on your bency (squished bottom)

That benchy still looks horrid there are massive lines everywhere

My virgin benchy out the box looked better than this. Just got a P1S 2 weeks ago.

P1s is trash, 80percent of prints fail even after constant tweaking to find the problem.

Your final print still looks horrible

sorry mate thats a horrible benchy must be the green

Thorough video, however that benchy is still TERRIBLE!!! It appears you need to manually relevel your bed to keep the Z- axis from fighting itself and very likely improving your quality much more