Just bought a 94 powerstroke, love the truck so far and saw this mod, keeping the truck basically stock, just adding a CAI and this downpipe to help the old girl breathe a little better, thanks for the video!
Still haven’t ordered mine, life got in the way. But looking at the one I’m wanting, the specs say it won’t fit a truck with dual tanks, which mine has. I can’t figure out why it won’t when it’s on the opposite side of the truck. Does your truck have duals?
@@lintsausage No not yet. We are just coming into our muddy disgusting mess that is the spring thaw and I'm too poor for a nice big garage yet so I need to wait a bit...hopefully in June.
I was dreading doing this mod, as soon as saw your video you gave me the motivation to do it!! You are absolutely right, minimum time and fairly easy and fast to do. Grasias amigo
95 drw 2wd zf5.. had a bit of trouble getting diamond eye 2pc 3in downpipe on from the bottom.. had already tried everything from the top, AND my truck didn't have the pancake factory 💩 it already had a two piece 3in downpipe. Like oh hey surely another 3in will go right in there. The old 3in round 2pc downpipe finally gave up after cutting the top bend off. And the new one went in with some LIGHT persuasion via 3lb sledge. But the vice grips that were carefully placed on the bottom of the top piece caused burrs.. nothing a flat file couldn't handle. Firewall was already massaged without a hole through it.. and new downpipe is in, from the bottom. 👍
I ended up not cutting anything. Hammer down on the edge like you said and then pushing in from the bottom. I can't believe so many other people pull off the insulation and cut the car.
For anyone watching this. You don’t need to use a pry bar or hit your firewall with anything. All you need to do to get the down pipe in is get a jack and put it under the transmission and un bolt the the crossmember of the transmission from the frame and lower it, it’ll stop once it leaning on the turbo against the fire wall and that’ll give you enough space. You just put it in the top and give it a little persuasion with a mallet and it’ll fall right in. I’ve done it on a few trucks. And if it’s a manual you have to take the shift of because it won’t let the transmission drop far enough. Also forgot to mention. His new down pipe is extra long. I use one from diamond eye and it half the size of that. But I get it with their 5” exhaust. Item # k5314A I get it from SUMMIT Racing
I unbolted the trans support and lowered the tail of the trans about 2 inches. The new down pipe went in from the top and no need to cut fire wall shield or bend it back works for me,
I did it this way on my 96 zf5 but it’s jammed between the trans and the firewall so it vibrates real bad. Gonna have to go in and massage the firewall.
There's been a lot of feedback on this, I don't know why but it seems some can get it in w/o cutting or trimming anything where others have no choice. I wouldn't think the kits would vary that much and the engine/trans setup should be the same!? Who knows.
Thanks sir, loved the video. In need of a little more advice though. Not sure but do you know what is the best deal on the 3"downpipe? I found one on the Riff Raff diesel for $129, I believe if I remember right that's before shipping and tax. After further research, I found 1 on Jegs for $97 like $122 after shipping + tax. Not sure a guy could beat that but curious if anyone knows. Just wasn't sure if there's a cheaper option even though I know that's a damn good deal? Thanks for the great video! I'm sure you saved a lot of people a shitload of time on this once dreaded job lol!
With JUST this "mod" you won't physically feel a huge noticeable difference but it does definitely improve breathing for the engine and turbo and sets you up for a nice CAI, exhaust, tunes and other improvements.
Howdy, How has the aluminized steel held up for you? I’m considering the extra money for stainless for longevity. What are your thoughts? Also, have you had any issue with the hanger brackets? I also considered getting these welded rather than clamps after I have installed. Thanks for the very helpful video, I now feel comfortable giving this a go.
I live in salty winter road country, that being said aluminum will surface rust faster but I haven't owned a vehicle long enough that it rotted through. We typically get at least 10 years before the stainless starts to rust. So to answer your question stainless does seem to be more durable than the aluminum but if you don't plan on keeping your vehicle for more than 10 years save money and go aluminum because you'll get 10 years out of that as well. If you do go stainless there are also different grades of that, 409 versus 304. 304 is much more expensive but also has much higher resistance to rust. 304 is hard to find though so most parts you will find are the 409 stainless. I personally go with stainless over aluminized and have had great luck on vehicle's I've owned as long as 10 years after installing stainless... Again, never got to the point of needing replaced a second time.
As far as brackets I haven't had any issues with regular hangers with the stainless clamps that come with the SS exhaust kits for diesel. I'm not a fan of the U bolt style clamps you put on regular gas vehicle exhaust, they seem to always leak. I weld my exhaust on my gas vehicles.
@@rednecktech82 That all makes sense, thanks for the info. I have a 97 F-350 7.3 and this will be my first time ever installing and exhaust. I like the mbrp product, but they only sell a stainless kit that includes an exhaust tip for $685. The aluminized steel is $485 so a pretty big jump. The tip seems unnecessary for me especially with this being a work truck. I live in SW Montana so lots of snow and ice here as well. Do you think the stainless would be worth the extra $200? It also comes with a lifetime warranty which honestly I am not sure is necessary. As far as the hangers I’ll plan on just using those.
I personally wouldn't pay $200 more for the stainless, it doesn't look any different/nicer. Again if you plan on keeping the truck for 20 years then maybe. Lifetime warranty says a lot about the quality of the product but when it comes down to it every company has a 100 different ways to get out of actually covering anything so I wouldn't bank on it being a true lifetime warranty.
Dumb question. Do you need to have a tune to get any real benefit out of these 3 inch down pipes or not? I'm getting ready to do mine, but if I need a tuner (which I dont want) for any significant improvements I'm questioning whether it's worth it or not.
Tuners are only absolutely necessary on 2010+ diesels that have emissions like egr's etc. When you go to eliminate EGR's and things like that the tuner turns off any codes that might get tripped by the trucks computer.
My truck blows quite a bit of blue smoke. Not sure if it’s really oil or diesel. It’s my first power stroke, would the truck smoke more with a straight pipe? My exhaust is still stock.
Getting ready to do one for the third time first 2 were a pain in the dick. I did a little like you on my last one n also learned that it has to be feed from the bottom. Gonna try your way hope I get it done n an hour. Still got Injectors to swap haha
