Just wanted to say thank you, I recently purchased a 1986 Ford Mustang LX that was set up for DRAG but the guy lost his motor to a friend (long story but I was able to purchase it - cheap) and now I am in the process or learning process of rebuilding a used 302 with a bout 60K on it and I have gotten a few add-ons with it. Edlebrbock Performance Intake, Cam, matching lifters and new timing chain and gears. I am SUPER excited to start and finish this project and your videos will be very helpful. I have a few relatives that are the back bone of most of the stuff I do when it comes down to engines. They have done it their whole lives and when I found these videos it really got me excited to see the light at the end of the tunnel to get this car completed. I just started to pull the heads off the engine and I am going to port and polish them as well once I get the new gaskets etc. I hope to keep you up to speed on my progress maybe with my own videos WILL SEE!
I have the same motor in my 72 Grande. I worked a school year and a summer to buy it from the shop I was working at the time. I'm currently restoring it but I am lucky I found you this is all a real help in the process I looked at your interior videos. That is as far as i am right now the motor luckily has only 33k miles but it definitely needs a clean up as poor as it runs at times. Keep posting this stuff i love it
I would never tighten one bolt to the max and then the other. I do one bolt until I feel resistance and then the other. Then back and forth adding more pressure evenly applied across the plate until fully torqued.
Permatex discontinued the ultra slick. A good alternative I have heard but haven't tried it is the Lucas Assembly Lube. In Autozone it can be found over on the area where they keep their diesel stuff. I don't see any problem with the ultra slick. All seems like is some really heavy weight oil. The best lube is the stuff that comes in a tub because as you can see even though the ultra slick is extremely thick you can see it run off the cam. I could see it running off and thinning out on the lobes if it takes longer than around 3 days to put the engine back together. The stuff in the tub don't run and resembles grease more. Also packing behind the face plate with vasoline is acceptable similar to how you would pack an oil pump's gears. Although I think your engine will be OK with this lube but it kind of fall in the category as old type lube since there has been better strides in the tech of assembly lube. It's kind of similar to using Indian head gasket sealer when there are better options. It works just fine but is considered old tech.
If you installing on a stand, roll the engine upside down so any of the dragging the cam along the bearings (and it happens) is done to the top of the bearing where the cam doesn't seat.
I’ve been wanting to do a cam on my 94 gt... my question is, do the heads have to be done or can I just do the cam? I don’t want to go to far on the motor, just want a little more throaty sound
Might be to late for you I did my 94 but I got a 347 put comp hr236 I think is what it was lift is 565/576 duration 230/232 I like comp I have used comp before in small block chevy with good results split duration is always good ford stuff like the e cam is straight across the board comp makes a better cam than this cam you should give them a call or even call jegs or summit racing and ask them I think they will tell you the same thing just trying to help out another gearhead like me and someone told me this same thing that iam telling you bud just want to see you make horsepower and your car sound good everybody wants the hotrod sound too
I talked to a guy from Summit Racing. He said the comp cam will wok in my stock 302 motor without changing anything else in the motor. I also looks at the Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold as well.
@@Archifx LMAO. That’s the funniest and most ridiculous statement I’ve ever heard of. You’ve obviously never worked in an environment where toes can get crushed by falling objects. How about a flywheel, ring gear side down on your toes. Or a MaDuce falling on your foot? Or a cylinder head falling over and hitting your little baby toes? Big time pain and probable long term damage. I could go on, but why waste my time arguing with you and your diminished ability to see.
My son and I are wanting to rebuild the original motor 302 5.0 Back ground Original 5.0 142,000 miles Runs good Question shop wants to rebuild it for $3500 and I'm wondering if I should ask about giving it a little more power not much. What should I ask for in hp? 100 200? Not looking for a drag car but just a little bit more. Thanks
cheater trick, long 3/8-NC bolt, or a side handle for a drill that uses a 3/8 thread. Works great as a cam handle. Handle is better, but more people have bolts laying around.
I know I may come across a little ignorant on the subject but I am selling a 74 bronco project to a friend as he is more into them and practically bullied me into it. He is taking the engine of another one of his projects to replace it though so I am going to still have the motor. I was going to put it into an 84 rx7 and was wondering if there was anything I would need to change in order for it to be more for speed rather than for torque? Basically I am looking to make a car I can drive in normally but could say take to a local drag strip and still have some fun there. Thanks for your help, Alex
Hey do you know if I can put a 1995 5.0 mustang engine in a Ford F-150 1995 with the 5.0 EFI do you know what changes or parts I need to replace to fit this in my truck ?
Hey just got an 88 foxbody GT with GT40 heads and intake and it has a cam in it already but it’s not a very big one because it barely lopes or chops. I bought a 90 fox 2 years ago that I know had an E303 cam because it chopped HARD and sounded amazing! I really want to throw an E cam in my 88 but not sure what all I need for it besides the cam itself. Lifters? Pushrods? Springs? Valves? Please help me out!
Hello very good video. I have a stock used ford 302 roller motor and I want convert it to 302 ho to drop it in a 1986 Ford F-150, I am looking for torque and horsepower at low rpm but with a bit of rough idle I am going to purchase aluminum heads 190cc runner 2.02 intake with 1.6 exhaust and stainless steel roller rockers with 1.6 ratio. I already have a edelbrock dual plain intake with a 500 cfm edelbrock carb. What type of camshaft do you recommend me to install ? according to the parts I have. Thanks in advance
Good job, nice explanation too=) Question for you: replacing different can into my Mustang 3.8 litre V6, putting XTreme Energy in with stiffer springs, of course. Do I need to replace cam bearings, or can I just replace cam? Car has 180000 miles on it? Thanks=)
ok boys need some help, I have a flat tappet 351w in my bronco and I want to use the comp cam extreme 4x4 low end cam in it, do I need to remove lifters and need new springs for a cam like this or can I just remove my dizzy and old cam and slide the new one in and way to go
I have a lot of bolt on upgrades on my 5.0 exhaust long tube headers ,tb , intake and so on but I have not upgraded my top end can I use this with the stock heads?
I am doin a E303 right now in a semi budget Semi Street / Daily build 1985 5.0 H.O. Roller Motor "M-Code" .... lookin for some more power Anyone know what I can expect? lol... My additions with E303:... Promaxx 1102 heads (175cc 2.02. / 1.60 valves) Demon 625 Carb, Edelbrock RPM intake , Car already had BBK Long Tubes with Flowmasters (No Cats) Smog and A/C Delete... Goin thru the motors bottom end but not replacing shit unless bad stuff... Only Rings and bearings for sure... Comp Cams Double Roller Timing Chain of course... Car also had when i bought it 3:73 Gears in 8.8 Rear, Frame Connectors and Torque Boxes and that Dura- mat under the carpets back into the trunk.......The previous built and restored the entire car spent a fortune on resto including 3,500. paint and prep job Regatta Blue but left the motor stock... I'm gonna finish it lol...
Need some help with getting oil pressure in a 72 302. It has been hot tanked and has a new oil pump and has the shaft in it to drive the oil pump. can hear the oil moving in the block but nothing is coming up to the head. any Ideas? I have been using a drill to try and build up the pressure.
Sorta of a random question. But I have a 95 f150 302 all stock . I am going to swap the heads to a gt40 and swap the cam (thanks for the awesome video) for a e303 cam . Do I need to flash my ecm or flash anything before I tear something up?
I've been wondering the same question. I have a 1989 302 in my Bronco and been wondering how the OBD-I Speed Velocity system will react to the e303 cam.
Skitter302 e303 idle like a shit on speed density or sn95 computer, they had a couple of cam which are compatible with speed density or sn95 computer like comp cam xe270hr-14, steeda 19, afm b-21 and more. Just a tip dont go with a 110 lsa, go with 112 lsa or more.
Ok i finally swapped the heads and cam. Everything runs great (didnt need to flash)except didn't quite get the power i was expecting and im only getting 6-7mpg
ok now I'm ready to go. thanks a million, now to get my frozen distributor out I can get started. can you help in the timing and valve lash. got a magnum 270h comp cam
Howards makes a far better cam, 219 @.50 on both intake and exhaust, but with 1.7 rocker arms lift gets to .578 just under .600 that is supported by most aftermarket heads.
#1 at top dead center......find the #1 spark plug wire and trace it to your distributor and make a mark on the lower case of your distributor in line with the distributor cap tower with the #1 plug wire......and then remove distributor cap so you can see the rotor......turn the engine over by hand with no spark plugs (no compression builds up so its easier) until the rotor is in line with the mark you made on the lower case of your distributor. Now look at your timing tab to see where it is compared to the 0 on the crank balancer. Rotate the engine until that tab is pointing or aligning exactly on the 0 or the timing marks. Usually will not be on the 0 when your rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug tower because your distributor is set with some advance in it usually 10-12 degrees so rotate it some more to the 0 on the crank balancer and you should be exactly on top dead center. Then you can remove your distributor but first make a scratch on your distributor base and engine block so you can install your distributor back in aligning the scratches and your timing should be pretty much correct. I like to use white out in the bottle to make reference marks. It has a dandy little brush and the white marks are very visible. Hope this helps.
Can anybody tell me what the advantage if an "overhead" cam? I'm thinking about the 1950's era classics, like the '57 Chevy, such as was popular in drag races. As I recall, there was a big performance advantage, but they were against the rules.
+Mary Tudor Overhead cam engines have better volumetric efficiency. Back then with flat head engines (L-head engines) they had the cams and the valves in the block rather than in the head and with this design the air/fuel mixture didn't burn as well. F-head engines came later which were a little better because it was a cross-flow design which had a valve in the block and also in the head, but V.E. was still not so great; although it did improve it still wasn't the best. So later OHV and OHC (Single Overhead Cam and Dual Overhead Cam) engines were developed which greatly increased V.E. because the cams were right above the valves which resulted in less moving parts and less friction which result in more power. They were probable banned because it was so good and not many people had them.
*assembly lube* is it used so that when the engine first starts, the components are not running dry one versus another? is it for those few moments before engine oil comes onto the components and lubricates them? anyone please?
7:00 mark- That "Thrust Plate bearing assembly" is a whopping 130. bux. hahha better clean it up...Must be very important ..I Bought a new one... How much HP did you end up with ya think????
Check the engine bay. There should be a Vehicle Emmision Control Information label, looks kind of like a sticker. Just skim through it to find the displacement. If you dont find it or is unreadable check your driver side door, low chance the engine displacement might be there but worth a shot.
Christopher Ladd you line the dots up its simple with ford
8 лет назад
+Paul Carpenter with these motors not the newer ones. You'd better have the right tools and know how to use precision measuring equipment it comes to the modular engines.
Absolutely buddy. Thanks for following me. I have a TON of videos and photos coming up on this ol' 302. Check out 302budgetbuild(dot)com and mach1restoration(dot)com for all the photos and videos. I run both of those websites and I posted a lot of great content on there. Good luck with your build.
+Mary Tudor they open exhaust and intake valves then the spring which is on the valve between the rocker closes it. SOHC opens both exhaust and intake valves, and DOHC have to cams and one opens exhaust and one opens intake. DOHC engines have better performance than SOHC engines.
cool i always go to the hardware store and get as long a bolt as possible and screw it in the end of the cam it gives more leverage at the end it's way easier than the stock bolt lenghth