My shower doors were sitting next to my bathroom for about two weeks when I finally got the courage to put them up. This video made installation a breeze! Thank you!
+Richard Valentine Thank you sir I’m humbled and happy it helped. I’m just waiting on my vanity top and I start a complete remodel of the bathroom. Ill be putting a new tub in and enclose with tile so ill do another and show the tile install portion. I appreciate you viewing Enjoy your new shower doors and give yourself a deserved pat on the back.
Other than having to go back to put in the rubber strip, this video was a huge help. I must have missed the part about the rubber strip. Thankfully it was easy enough to go back to do.
Linda Williams Glad you cought that I must of edited it out not realizing it but glad you were successful with your project excluding my mistake. Thank for viewing,
My shower/tub is identical to yours!. I didnt want to have to do that funky notch cut on the top rail, also I am tall, so I bought a 2x2 (1.5 x 1.5) piece of PVC trim, painted it almond (with krylon plastic) to match the tub, and that raised it exactly to the point where I could hang the top rail flush along the top of the shower surround.
Josiah Burns you are welcome but more importantly give yourself a big pat on the back for catching that prior to starting the install Smart man. Thank for viewing.
ttechnoholic It is you I thank. Taking your time to view Thank you. If i can help in any way Then I have done my job. Times like this are very humbling. Much respect in return.
Thank you! Great job explaining! Bought everything last night! My project for the weekend!!! I like your recommendation about fitting everything before caulking!!!
Really appreciate the effort you put into this video. The advice to hold off on calking until the end after checking everything is level and smooth was great! Thumbs up.
Great thorough guide of how to install the frame and glass doors to the tub and shower enclosure along with your tips. I will be attempting this next week.
Very good and thorough. I still have to find a door I like before I get all the tools out but now I have the whole assembly process down before I start...just helps to plan for someone who has never done this.
Thank you. You hit the nail on the head geypatches. Preparation is key to any success. Do your research, plan ahead, set a day aside, take your time and relax as you go. Don’t be afraid of something new. Before you know it it’s done and give yourself a well deserved pat on the back. Thank you for viewing
Heads up that if you're drilling through tile, Delta does not provide anchors that fit the 3/16 hole they recommend drilling in tile. Good lord, how cheap can you be? Six more, size-appropriate anchors would cost them probably ten-cents. So instead, I had to go to a hardware store in search of anchors that worked. I appreciate the help offered here, though. Thanks!
Not all shower doors are the same . My lower rail has a small lip that the side rails set down on to ,so you have to set the side rail down into the lower rail before you screw it into the wall. Because the lip on the lower rail holds the side rails from going all the way down you don't want to cut the side rail so it rests on the tub like he shows in the video Just make sure you know how your particular door frame works . If you have the side rails that drop in over the bottom rail and you do the install like he shows you will destroy your rails by cutting them the wrong way . Just don't think you can do the doors you have just like he is showing . I have install a few doors and I haven't seen one like he shows . Most doors you have to center and place the lower rail first and center it on the tub , tape it down and this is how you know where the side rails will be placed . In this video he doesn't show how he decided where to put the side rails . If you do the side rails first ,when you go to put the bottom rail in you might not be in the center of the tubs flat part . I would always cut and tape the bottom rail down in the correct location first so you know for sure where to place the side rails .
The Shack I bought a delta shower tub kit and one of my door drags and w ont slide smooth please help me Email me or leave a comment here ...Jessieu49@gmail.com please I appreciate it....
I know the vid is a bit long but my intent was to let people know step-by-step process and that it's not all that hard. I'm very grateful it helped and thank you for the kind words. Thank you Mike for viewing.
Very nice video I'm almost done prepping my bathroom and I just have two questions for you. 1. Is this delta door set good quality? From the video it kind of sounded like things are rather loose and doors bang pretty hard when closing. I'm afraid glass could crack. 2. I have not installed tiles yet. Do you think it's better to install this first then put tile? I would rather have it so there is only tile in the inside of the bathtub door.
Raul Sandoval the doors are good quality. The bang sound was the door hitting the rubber stopper. They glide very well. They don't flop around. I'm happy with them. Generally speaking you would normally bring the tile to the edge of the tub mount the doors on the edge of the tub and on the tile. you can do whatever you want. When I do my remodel I will bring the tile to the end of the tub and mount this sliding glass doors onto the tile My daughter had to move back home just before I was going to demo the bathroom so I have my tub, vanity, counter top, light and faucet sitting in my shop ready to go. I need her to move back out and I'll be doing a mini series on the remodel. Thank you for viewing. Hope this helps and congratulation on the remodel.
My glass shower door is leaking water after I shower. Looks like the water is coming from the space between the glass at the bottom doors and the silver panel attach to the tub. It’s frustrating.
Grand poobah sounds like you need to remove the bottom rail and recaulk it. The instructions call for just caulking but personally I caulk and add 1 stainless steel screw where the dividing guide attaches to the bottom rail to help keep that bottom rail secure to the tub. Yes frustrating but an easy fix. You just have to remove basically everything to lift up the rail. remove the old caulking clean the surface and apply new caulking reattach the side supports then top rail hang doors your good to go for a few more years. the bottom rail is held in place by the side supports. you shouldn't be able to lift the bottom rail with out removing the side supports. Sorry. I have to ask when I saw "Grand poobah" I immediately thought of The Flintstone, just saying.
If we have the clear glass shower glass, and the handle, but don't want to use the Traditional frame top (kids gave us for a gift) , could we use the "Soft Close" top off of a Bathtub set? In other words, are the side and bottom tracks universal to the different top styles?
dmbyaya3 I'm not sure I'd measure the other style and see if the shape is noticeably different. The kit these are made for are designed for their matching parts. Sometimes you can interchange things but some modification may be needed. If your up for a challenge then see if you can make them work. It may end up being fairly easy. If you do please let us know the outcome.
How tightly do you secure the rollers to the top of the doors. I'm afraid my super human strength may crack them. Yours looked a little loose. Thank you!
step 8 in instructions says '''wall anchors must be used for hollow wall...came with anchors...trying to figure out best anchors to use for tile installation??..think anchors that came with it are not very good..video has no mention of anchors...not likely to be lucky enough to screw into stud on both sides
The large anchors that come with the kit are for anchoring into tile. If you do, use them, be very careful and get a bit thats made for drilling into tile to prevent cracking or breaking of tile. Mine was temporary into the fiberglass enclosure. I chose to use a molly bolt and just anchor the sides to the fiberglass enclosure where the Molly bolts. What ever you choose just be careful if drilling into tile.
Thanks for the detailed walk through, which is very helpful. Quick question, I just bought the full set (1-2-3) Delta Simplicity from Home Depot and noticed the rubber Gasket was missed from Step 2 box. Will Home Depot responsible for the missing part or I have to call Delta Customer Services line?
Michael Wolf I used a regular 60 tooth blade the aluminum is thin and for just a few cuts the regular blade is OK. No need to get a metal cutting blade. just let the blade do its thing don't push it to cut too fast
I got a place that when I took over the house the shower door was almost installed, everything was down but the bottom guide, where can I get or how do I go about it to get a bottom guide so I can keep my shower doors from trying to sly inside the tube? I have no idea what type sliding doors used but from watching your video the only thing missing was the guide for the two doors to set between on the bottom
EsteeDarla with out knowing the brand I'd go to a hardware store and see if they have an universal guide for the shower doors. Also hopefully it will screw on the bottom rail I wouldn't get one that sticks to it just more issue with mold. Make sur to use stainless steel screws for rust.
@@TheShackHome great thank you so much so much, cause I had no idea what to do, another question when they put the like 2 ft worth of shower thing in then they used tile the rest of the way to inclose the shower they left about a half in gap between the vynile type show tub thing going to the tile, ware normally they put caulking but the gab is very large and don't look like they sealed it correctly when installing it how would you suggest to fix that
@@EsteeDarla Im not sure just what your describing. Is there a gap between the tile and tub? or is there a gap from the tile and shower door rail? Not sure what 2 foot of shower thing is... sorry ;)
Great video! Where do I find the T-strap that holds the top beam tied to the rest of the frame? My shower does not have it and I can’t find it at local Hoke Depot.
Jay T It should of come with the kit. If not does the installation direction have it in there? You may have to contact the manufacture to get a replacement. I just installed another tub enclosure for a customer and they were included, is was even a different brand.
For some reason when i installed mine. One of the doors is not sitting level. I checked and everything is straight... Any advice on what i can do.... I tried adjusting the wheels higher and lower and still no luck... Please help... Thank you so much.
Edub that a hard call. The top rail should be level the glass should be level and adjustment you raise or lower the rollers. You might try pulling the glass off pull off the rollers and see if by chance the glass isn't cut evenly (the hole the roller bracket connect to) may just be off also compare the roller brackets themselves and see if they aren't built the same, anything could be off. Just never know.
can i install a bypass shower door on a fiberglass/acrylic/prefab shower with bathub? The stall walls portrudes on the side about an 1" I think so I don't know how would I install the side wall rails on this type of shower.?
Vinay Kumar I think it is personal preference. I choose to have the door closest to the shower head, from the shower the inner door, for the purpose of keeping some of the water from flooding the bottom rail. Just what I do.
Video was very helpful but I still have water coming or should I say splashing under the inter shower door after lowering to the max? Any suggestion would be appropriated..
Steve without seeing how it door are installed on your tub ill give a few tips. Which ever side your shower head is on that side the inner shower door should be. If the shower head is on the right so should the inner shower door be on the right when closed. The bottom rail has a natural slop preventing the water from flowing out. My grand daughter takes baths in our tub and never had any splash out and my daughter shower in it when she visits (it's our gest bath). I did one thing that i didn't show. My bottom rail flexed too much so i drilled two holes and screwed 2 stainless screws into it after caulking so it wouldn't move. See if your flex too much and make sure it slopes to the tub side.
I bought the same doors i just remodeled the bathroom i find them some what heavy the tub i installed is fiberglass acrylic im afraid if i put this on the weight will damage the tub ? Please let me know asap
oFraNkiii NJ the tub I installed this on is fiberglass. As long as you anchor the screw into the backing and not just the fiberglass you are fine. The side supports distribute the weight. I didn't even use the included anchors my install is temporary. I will use their anchors when I remodel the bath and enclose the tub in tile.
Thanks for the vid. You don't caulk the side jambs? Also, when caulking the bottom piece, Delta site showed silicone placed in the grove closet to the outside of the tub, why not caulking the two sides of the bottom piece. Thanks again.
yes leenayabooh once it was all mounted i caulked the entire frame and inside the bottom rail where the side rails meet . I always go extra this is why i put it together then caulked yes both sides. Any place moisture can leak in.
dan klein your shower insert wall is 2' shorter? That will look off and will be noticeable. Hard to judge without seeing. What about the width. Is there a big difference from the wall to the insert? Where the side support connects to the top rail if there is a small gap it could be covered by caulking. Or you could shim a piece of wood to match the side rail width, height and gap thickness. Glue or screw the wood to the wall install the side rail support and the rail caulk and should look fine. You could always look for door shorter or go the expense to having yours cut by a glass shop
Video was good up to cutting the bottom, although it was a little lengthy when showing how to file the corners. Then it jumps to screwing in the top but there is no video showing how the top was cut. Obviously there’s an offset but that should have been covered along with how you measured the top.
figured viewers can get the gist of it.You would cut it the same as the bottom just measure wall to wall not the inside of the side supports. Plus in my case I had to notch it to fit. I actually have another top and bottom rail ready for when i demo this bathroom to the studs and completely remodel it with tile enclosure. I wont have to notch the top rain in that case.
@@TheShackHome I will have to notch the top as well and this has kept me from doing the install to this point. I wish you had included this step in the video.
Nhac ask all the questions you need. The rubber strip is to prevent the glass doors from banging and hitting the metal rail. It mounts on the bottom rail on the inside where the glass doors slide.
+Brandon Ortega it sounds strange but its a kit sold seperately. If you go to Home Depot and head to the Shower section you will find all you need. Its seperat so you can taylor to your needs. Glass design, Finish and handles. Thats why its 1,2,3 just get your measurements and you'll be set.
Jerry the guide top of the glass doors can be altered to tweek the level-plumb of the glass Hopefully the tub was close to level and walls plumb so you really shouldn't need to tweek it that is as long as people don't cut the side rales too uneven. If this waht your asking.
EaglesFan4NRA if you're speaking of the little plastic T-bar that you slide it in the top rail, basically that's just to hold the top rail secure so it's no chance of being knocked off because there's really no way to securely mount it to anything. This way when you at least go to hang the doors or you may need to take them off to do something there's no chance of knocking the top off
alcamerc 99 I used just a plain conical anchors #10, 1-1/2 inch long. This was temporary. My daughter had to move out of her apartment due to infestation and needed a place to stay for a while. That ended up staying up for almost 2 years. The kit DOES come with bolts that are heavy duty. My only caution would be drilling into tile. If by chance you hit a stud then just get a 2 1/2" screw and go directly into the stud but rarely will you hit a stud.
@@alcamerc9970 I don't remember the size it was what was recommended for the #10 screw. Just a plane drill. If you need to drill through tile you should use a drill for tile.
I purchased this door system and am ready to install but I have a problem: the contractor (who has since abandoned the project) did a lousy job of setting the shower pan, it's not level. In fact, the right side is 3/4" lower than the left. (Fortunately it tilts towards the drain.). Any suggestions on how to proceed? Resetting the shower pan or a rod and shower curtain are not options. Thanks.
Mikeb the only thing i could suggest would to do something the vendor doesn't want you to do. The side rails they state DO NO CUT. They are precut to size for the sliding doors. In your case this may be your only option. If you can temporarily set the side rails up and then set the top cap on and place 1 door in check the clearance you have on the bottom and how much to the top of that bottom rail. Example lets say you have 3/8 clearance you could cut 1/4" off the high side reset the door make sure you still have clearance. if still too uneven and the door wants to slide to the other end you maybe able to raise the low end to hopefully be OK without the boor clearing the bottom rail and still be behind the lip so the water doesn't splash out. Even if you just do a little bit at a time just remember if you cut too much off you will need to get another kit to replace the side rails. They don't come separately.Again this is something they strongly don't suggest but it may be your only option. Sorry to hear about the bad craftsmanship and that lowlife contractor. That's what gives the rest of us bad name.
The Shack: Thanks for the reply. After giving it some thought, and before I saw your reply I picked up a piece of Cellular PVC Trim, 3/4" x 3 1/2". I'm going to cut it to length (58") and rip it to width (3") then taper it to form a shim to place under the bottom rail (I'm pretty handy with a band saw and plane). With luck this will work. If not I'll give your suggestion a try. I'd rather risk the $13 the PVC cost, and some time, than possibly ruin a side rail and have to spend another $135 and be back where I started.
So every brand has different step installing rails? Because you installed the two side rails first then the bottom rails. I've seen other videos installing the bottom rail first.
Other brand may require different steps. I went step by step per their instructions given with this product. If there is a problem it's easier to get any replacement or solution following the directions enclose with the product for any warranty issues. Thank for viewing and good question.
That's because the bottom track has a rubber strip inserted that prevents the outside door from rattling against the metal track. Delta made the rubber insert too thick so the outside door gets pinched between the door divider and the metal bottom track. Years ago delta didn't ship with the rubber strip. The textured glass option has this problem this most. The smooth plain glass option is not so bad.
It looked like your drill scratched the porcelain on the shower pan, when you drilled the pilot holes for the glass divider. Otherwise, great tips. Thanks.
You mentioned that the glass door packaging just contains glass doors nothing else, it also has the hanging rollers. I had to go back to home depot and sort it out and come to a realization that the rollers are in the step 1 door packaging. adios!
Eric yes it's a wood blade but you are right it's only a couple of cuts and the aluminum is soft and thin that's why I say go slow and let th blade cut don't rush it.
Centeretree this is temporary. I had planned on a studs-up remodel of this bathroom but my daughter had issues and had to come back home so I put this up with the intent of being taken down as soon as she leaves. Even after the remodel and i mount this to a tiled wall i'll use different anchors. Think about ti it only set there. The top sits on it and bears the weight of the doors. Nothing is pulling on the sides. Really the anchors provided are major over kill.
yugong the anchor bolts included will do just fine and IF you can tap into a stud great but not necessary, in my case this was just temporary. Finial install was into tile and cement backerboard no issue
tom yes that is what they say personally i didn't i put a stainless steel screw through the bottom rail and the tub in the middle to make it more secure to the tub and little chance of moving but didn't show it because i chose to do it and didn't want anyone to take a chance of voiding warranty it can be done but for warranty purposes i wont suggest it in my vid then someone will come back and blame me. Plus depending on the type of tub can determine weather you can choose another method or not.
