I thought this was just the right level of detail. I also liked the tricks you shared for getting the roof jack aligned and sealed correctly. Well done!
Thank you for the great video I am installing the same heater in my garage and this is a big help. It always amazes all the stupid comments that people leave when you are trying to help others.
The best thing about this video was the segment on lifting it in place by yourself. I did exactly the same thing with the straps! But instead of the block and tackle, I used a come-along..... took a few minutes longer, but it worked out perfect! I pretty much did the install from start to finish with the help of this video, thanks so much!
Some comments about the use of Category III venting with regard to local codes would be helpful. A list of materials with corresponding part numbers would be great too.
I just completed my own heater installation, and the calculation isn't difficult. The hole in this video is small and located on a medium-pitch roof, so it's not that big a deal. Not taking the time to calculate the proper hole size on a much steeper roof or for a bigger flue pipe (e.g. separated combustion) will yield undesirable results. Example for steeper 10/12 pitch roof with 6" basic hole: 10/12 = a/6. Solve for a: a=5. Pythagorean theorem: a-squared+b-squared=c-squared. 5-squared+6-squared = c-squared. Solve for c: c=7.81. The major axis of the ellipse is 7.81" and the minor axis is 6". The vent pipe would not fit or be too tight against the roof if a simple 6" circle were made for this example. Creating a template for the cutout would be a good idea.
I’m installing a similar heater and found this video very helpful! One thing I am having issues with is the b vent. My vertical rise is about 10ft long and the pipe is heavy. I dont feel comfortable just leaving it with the only support coming off the back of the heater. What’s the best way to support the weight of the chimney?
Does it need to be a T that comes off the back of the heater? I bought a HeatStar 50,000 BTU and the vertical vent kit, but it came with an elbow instead of a T.
Found This: "Tapered (beveled) surface of connector nut or fitting where the seal occurs. Pipe thread sealant or Teflon® tape should never be applied to a flare surface."
@@ChadAmI80 That is good to know. I use it on flared fittings but have never had an issue. I just make sure to not get any pipe dope on the actual beveled portion. In the future, I will refrain from doing this.
Anyone know if the vent has to go straight up or can I put elbows on it? I was thinking of going up into the attic, then 45 to a higher point of the roof, then 45 back to go straight up again.
Does the bottom of the t vent pipe out the back get a cap added or left open for air flow. I'm thinking a drop leg added unless use the flex line with it. Most stores doesnt know but I'm going by my older home unit that stopped.
Installation of your venting needs to terminate no closer than 10ft from exterior wall, meaning your not up to code. Also flexible gas pipe csst can burn your house down if not grounded. It's already burned down 40 houses since it came on the market. Lightening can jump from electrical to csst burning pinholes in it causing fire and or explosion.
On further inspection those are actually slightly different fitting heads. I found this one which seems to match exactly to what Ron shows in the video at 1:27 www.ronstanindustrial.com/shop/blocks-pulleys/block-tackle/rk12-435nc/
He did not mention that you need a gas fitter one ticket to install it if its gas...not sure about propane most insurance will double if you have one of these in your garage especially if its an attached garage as there are strick laws and rules about these! Do your research before buying or installing.
