Derek goes through the install of a gas hob with the help of his trainees. this is a tutorial for trainee gas engineers never attempt gas work if you are not gas safe registered. or under supervision from a gas engineer.
Great video as usual, when fitting a hob I like to remove the hob, fit the oven or whatever is going beneath then mark on the sides of the cupboard the room/void behind the oven, then remove the oven and refit the hob, now knowing what access we have for pipework.
Great video really appreciate your time you’ve put into all your videos. I’m currently on week 4 of my gas training and had a lil kick up my ass to get this (horrible) portfolio done. as I’ve only got 2 weeks left. This video help me with a gas hob install I done a few months back to put into my portfolio. Thank you
Smashing video. You took it step by step which I found VERY useful. Now I actually know why you should turn the hot tap on and check the flame picture of the burners. Don’t think I’ll ever forget that.. Thanks Derek 👍🏻 Asian Jon. Training.
I am a trained teacher and this is an excellent video. Congratulations to all concerned on the clarity and high standard of information and presentation. Well done!
good posts. I'm watching your videos from Istanbul. I'm dealing with stove repairs. You are very successful at your job. I'm waiting for your videos about the stoves. Respects
Harry Jones make sure you have your training books with you and your analyser is calibrated and don’t forget your non contact voltage indicator and all your pads , warnings notice and labels etc. The inspector will want to see you do a tightness test purge and commission a boiler. Good luck mate and make sure you have plenty of biscuits in 😂😂😂 thanks for watching and let me know how you go on 👍🏻
Hi I really love all your videos they're very helpful and educational. I would like to ask you if it's possible please turn the music down or make it without music because it's very distracting .Many thanks looking forward to watching your new videos
thanks tom cat looks good and thanks for teaching us and making those gas safe videos. Shouldn't that 6mm power cable be clamped to the wall 25mm away from the hob gas pipe and valve? Also what was the gas rate, working pressure, heat input and het output net please?
I'm assuming you turned the isolation key before loosening the bolts mate? I didn't see that mentioned in the video. I need to change a worktop in my own kitchen and the gas hob needs taken out which means disconnecting the gas pipe. Is this easy enough done?
I’ve just had an installer reject fitting my new hob as there was not 5cm space behind the hob to the wall. To be honest it looks like this one is less than 5cm too. Does that distance of 5cm vary from hob to hob?
Hi Tomkat, Can you use a flexible hose like CSST if there is no oven below the hob, and there is no drawers coming into contact with the pipe or fittings?, Unsure whether the cooker hose argument includes these metal flex hoses or just rubber hoses.
Had a debate with someone the other day when you are doing an annual safety/landlords on this would taking a burner pressure from the injector with the other three on be the correct way to do your burner pressure as opposed to heat input. (Likely you would gas rate as these cookers are usually caked in grease)
When doing the pressure you turn the burner on the opposite corner to take the correct pressure not turn on all the others. I don’t see the need to do it if your gas rate is correct and the flame picture is ok
Hi Derek what fitting did you use to connect the hob to the pipework. Last time I took asc at local independent training centre they said you can't use compression female iron. Ard they right I've always used them
Antony Buckley it’s one of those situations where you will get half of the engineers saying you can and half saying no. The regs say compression fittings can only be used in accessible locations I say under a hob is accessible and you as an engineer have a good idea that the hob is connected with a female or male iron to copper. As long as the fitting has a taper thread and you use the correct jointing compound there is nothing wrong in my eyes but plenty will disagree. I have looked in all the regs about it and the manufacturers instructions and all say appropriate fitting. At the end of the day the hob connection is a compression fitting thanks for watching sorry I didn’t give you a definitive answer but I don’t think there is one it’s like can a hob be fed with a cooker hose. Cheers 👍🏻
Hi. I am trying to install our new cooktop but while it fits the space when the regulator is unattached, once I attach the regulator it does not fit. Can I install the regulator just after the cooktop shut off valve and will it still work safely and effectively? It couldn't be more than 5-6 feet additional distance for the gas to travel through the flex hose.
Is there a new requirement to install a separate gas test point at a new appliance that doesn't have one as part of the appliance? Does this apply to gas hobs?
Paweł L who ever you get to install your new boiler will be the guy to tell you which would be the best boiler for your property. Thanks for watching cheers
I have a question, I have both a gas hob and a gas oven. But my gas outlet only has one exit. Do I need to fit in a three-way valve? Or? I would appreciate if you reply
@TomKatgastraining did you solder the copper pipe out of situ or soldered it once you had it in place altogether. Could you pls do another video of installing gas hobs? Thanks
@@tomkatgastraining underneath the workable where the underside of the hob is. How did you manage to not leave any burn marks? Did you use a rotherberg blow torch having it on a small flame and a heat shield or matt?
So as the MI'S instructions for clearances were not met, does that mean it would be NCS straight away and does that leave the installer open to prosecution should anything bad happen or is it a case that you recorded on the invoice that you have told the customer what to do and now it their responsibility should anything bad happen?
Hi wonder if you could help me. I am about to replace my gas hob similar connection to the one you showed in the video, with an electric induction hob. What I want to know is, will it be safe to disconnect the gas pipe at shut off valve and just leave it like that. Tia
Ibrahim Ali why would you do that on a cooker you can hear the gas turn off I think you are getting the test on a multifunction control valve and you don’t do a tightness test after that . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
@@tomkatgastraining Aprreciate the response Tomkat, looking forward to more videos from you. If I can suggest futures ones - 1) electrics for boilers 2) fault finding 3) in depth info on controls 4) individual parts like diverter valves/ pumps etc.
Spoke to Gas Safe today regarding gas hobs and was informed that a test point is also now required on hobs, luckily Screwfix do a gas tap with a built in test point, unfortunately 15mm only.
You can buy test adapters that fit onto the gas connectors or were the hose fits onto a cooker but you can also buy injector extended test points so they don’t just need to be on the isolation valve.
You should have actually moved the hob to the front edge with the bigger stoves being at the back the wall can/will take damage. I personally dont recommend going for hobs with biggest stoves at the back end.
So the aluminium elbow on the hob use the tapered elbow as some hobs come with 2 a parallel and tapered elbow then screw a normal brass female compression iron that has parallel thread.
Hi Ya. We need to replace our old hob but it's pretty big (74cm w x 52cm d approx), how would we get a hob fitted that isn't quite big enough for the space? Cheers
Not sure how that can be allowed to be signed off if the manufacturer says 50mm clearance at the wall and you provide 45mm surely thats an incorrect installation and cannot be signed off.
Derek, where are your protective gloves when using the power tool? Gloves that have rubber coating help grip the tool and prevent it from slipping out of your hands; as during work your hands sweat, and can cause slipping and possibly a dangerous accident. Only saying....
I have never wore gloves in my hole working life I find them very restrictive. Don’t get me wrong gloves can help keep your hands like a baby’s bottom but I don’t think they help me in any way. My wife likes my very course hands only saying 🤣. Anyway thanks for your concerns but at nearly 54 years old I don’t think I will start now 😜👍🏻
Hi. Just wanted to ask as i am doing my onsite training. Im getting different info regarding heat input rating in kw net or kw gross. For example on some appliance databadges or mi's it sometimes doesn't clearly indicate if heat input is in kw net or kw gross. Would appreciate if u get back to me.
If the appliance is older than the year 2000 it will be in gross kw after 2000 it will be net. That’s always a good indication but if it doesn’t say gross assume it’s net. Hope that helps
You can use a jig saw with a cutting blade at the point of first cutting the worktop from new. First measure the hob all the way round, ensure that it is square. Using a wood drill bit wide enough for the jigsaw blade at each corner to start your cut. The saw that you are using is correct, since this is now used to create a larger cut to install a larger hob than the original hob. Always use a jigsaw when making the first cut out, since you have more control. Never use the saw to make the first cut!
Why releasing gas in the air. My gas teacher instructed me to light the burners then shut off the isolation valve under the hob and wait for the click, then reopen the gas at isolation and check for no gas flow safely. The taps will be open without leaking if all good. We can also do it with tightness test if we leave the gauge on the meter test screw after the first tightness test so we do not have to smell or hear the gas ourselves when we reopen the isolation valve under the hob. Also spraying an injector can be an option. For this kind of hob it easily reachable.
What if you have no isolation valve on the hob and what if it’s a cooker with a hose. There are different ways of testing thermoelectric devices and I prefer to simulate real life under full control of the test.
@@tomkatgastraining thanks for the prompt reply. You still have ECV just in case you are missimg the isolation valve. But I would add a valve for a few quids before replacing the hob. Makes more sense to me
The terminology is different between English speaking countries, here in the US they are called gas fitters, in the UK they are called gas engineers. Just like we call them train engineers here, they call them train drivers.
hob is way too far back for my tastes. The front part of the hob is just the dials, no flame. so there's no need to have it set back so much. With that hob and the burners built so far back on the hob anyway. People using the kitchen will have a tough time with it.
I'd still say that gas cock is readily accessible. Some would argue not, 🤷♂️. The logic book I have in the van make sure the fsd goes off within 90 seconds for a hotplate. Has it changed to 60 seconds ? I was always told to turn the gas off at the meter, remove the flexi gas, pipe or turn off at the meter itself in the centre. In the real world we blow the burners off at low flame and time it. In this one mi supersedes all right
All thermoelectric should shut down within 60 seconds but if the hob MIs say 90 then we go off that . As for turning the gas off at the meter why would you do that as you would have to purge the gas again . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
Turning off at the cooker isolation valve is acceptable. I was told that it could be turned off at the meter, in the centre. Maybe the meter was in close proximity. 60 seconds drop out is pretty much a set standard for Mi's that's what I tend to go with, thanks for the clarification Derek. Sometimes it's worth just listening to your instructor, no arguments 😊. For my next renewals I'll be heading on over to your centre. (Less then 3 years)
I need some help. I have measured my current hob. Its 60cm X 50 CM. Buying a replacement hob, I chose 60cm x 50 cm, but all the hobs listed are H4.5 x W56 x D49cm Can you help?
I like all ur videos I’m a gas engineer too , but I don’t like the background music, great video ur voice and how you explain all good but I think U don’t need background music
@@tomkatgastraining when you turn the tap on and click the igniter creating the flame thermocouple opens gas then stays on when you turn the tap off after a few second thermocouple closes and shuts off gas to valve with a click all your doing it blowing it out instead of turning the dial down when I do it that way you turn the dial to the off position when it clicks it won’t turn back on unless you push it down all your doing is wasting your own breath and making your self dizzy
@@pauls826 but is it passing and I am simulating a real scenario. Anyway you do what you think is best and I will continue to train my trainees so they understand how safety devices work and to make engineers judgement.
@@tomkatgastraining yourll know if it’s passing when you try to turn the knob and it doesn’t move because the gas valves closed try it tomorrow in the centre you will know what I mean I’m not having a stab at your training your videos are good all I’m saying is you’ve no need to blow them out putting your face near flames when you can just turn the knobs off wait for the clicks and try to turn them on again without pressing them down it’s simple
@@pauls826 we have 2 cookers at the centre that have thermoelectric devices that stick you turn the gas off with the control knob it turns off the gas and you hear the thermoelectric click so you think it’s worked you then blow out the flame with the gas still on and you hear the click but the gas still comes out. You don’t need to tell me how to do my job because I have been at it a long time. Like I said you do your tests and I will do mine at the end of the day both tests are in the training manuals
When he removed the connecting pipe to the old hob the isolation valve seemed to be open. Couldn’t have been surely but it looked like the handle was aligned with the pipe.
@@tomkatgastraining That wasn’t evident from the video, but good to know that my eyes were not deceiving me. Had I been carrying out that job as a GasSafe certified technician I would have closed the isolation valve to minimise the risk of air diffusing back along the supply pipe upstream of the isolation valve and because it is the sensible thing to do. Also note that the latest revision of BS 6172 is BS 6172:2010
I understand that this video is tutorial, but you should have explained that if you are changing an old unit for a like for like new one (exception being the sixe of the opening) there is no need to do all that pressure test, unless it is to highlight a leak. So, for tutotrial purposes, it's OK but the change over of a gas hob is not rocket sience nor do you need a diploma from any organization, it's pure and simple common sense. The government made the rulling to stop any old cowboy that think's they can mess with the gas fitting and test for leaks with a naked flame, As the British Gas engineer did when I reported a possible gas leak, when I was living in a rented property, back in 1976 🤔
Mike Elward there are times in our work when bust sheets become very dangerous and after following a risk assessment and discussion with the customer we didn’t use them. Alway know the full story before making negative comments on videos mate
