How to Install a NEW Ceiling Fan IN A ROOM WITH NO CEILING FIXTURE | New Box, Fan, Wall Switch, Wire 

Thanks for the feedback! Glad it helped!

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You just want him to do an install for you. Lol. He does good work though I'm joking

@@marc6919 lol wouldn't be a bad idea, I do my own side jobs so he would be of a great help :)

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I want to know this as well!

You can splice the wires coming from the breaker (line) and your wire to the outlet (load) together. So you bypass the switch. Then use a third pigtail to power your switch and then your new wire to the fan and light.

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I have seen those. They are pretty nice!

Where did you get them from?

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I will take a look, just so you have an idea of what may be wrong, but the answer is to hire an electrician. There is a wiring issue. When you turn on the fan switch, it overloads. You have a hot grounded. I tried, but couldn’t quite follow how you wired it. There were too many conflicting terms used, and I wasn’t sure what locations were being described. (Fan line, light switch, light outlet, attic light, attic light pull switch) I will outline the required wiring below for your own visualization and conception so you may understand where the problem lies, but my only advice/recommendation is for you to hire hire an electrician. You are unsure and guessing with electrical wiring is deadly. Hire an electrician. There are only 3 devices and 2 wire runs involved. Devices: 1. Existing power source (sounds like a pull chain light in the attic) 2. New fan switch 3. New fan Wire runs: 1. (first) 14/2 from existing power source to new fan switch. 2. (second) 14/2 from new fan switch to new fan Procedure: Connect (first) 14/2 to existing power source. Black (hot) to black, white (neutral) to white, and ground (bare copper) to ground. Run the (first) 14/2 wire to the new fan switch box. Connect white to the switch. Leave black and ground loose (not connected). Connect new (second) 14/2 into the new fan switch box. Connect white to the switch. Connect black wire to the loose black wire. Connect ground to the loose ground, then connect the spliced grounds to the switch. Run the (second) 14/2 from the new fan switch box into the fan box. From there, follow the wiring directions that came with the fan. But, it will be hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. I hope that helps for understanding purposes. Hire an electrician.

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It’s going to both. This is a double switch. Both switches need the hot wired to them. A double switch should have a jumper between them by default. In that case you only need to connect to one of them, either one. Otherwise, if they are not factory jumperd, wire it to either one, then jumper it from that one to the other one.

Follow the video exactly and it will only take 12 minutes, just like in the video! Just kidding. It can definitely be done in a day. Having all of the required tools and supplies ready ready to go will save a lot of time and set you up for the fastest and smoothest install. I would estimate that that it took me about 4 hours (it took a little longer, but filming projects adds a lot more time). Glad you found it helpful!

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That’s exactly what I did. Now the switch controls the ceiling fan, and the outlet always has power like a normal outlet.

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Awesome, glad to hear that! I appreciate it! Thanks!

There is also this style of ceiling box for when there isn’t attic access. It is installed through the hole in the ceiling. amzn.to/3WZNjJv

There’s a ground wire with the conductor wires.

That should take care of it!

Hmmm… there is definitely a way to accomplish it. I would suspect that you are correct and the red went to the switch box and now does nothing, and the black just needs to be connected where the red currently is. I would definitely use a multimeter to verify and sort it out. If that is not working out, another thing to consider is leaving the outlet as is and splicing the existing outlet power wire (red?) In the switch (but is now disconnected and does nothing) splice it into constant power in the switch box. This will be like the switch is always on and the outlet will always have power.

As an electrical guy, your description leaves me with several questions. I would expect your recepticle to be split (a little tab is broken off to on the hot side to allow the recepticles to function as 2 seperate pieces). So the blacks should be constant hot, one in, one to the next double recepticle. The whites should be neutrals, one in, and one to the next recepticle. Grounds.....same....this recepticle and the next. The red, I expect to switch the top or bottom recepticle on or off depending on where connected. Your description sounds like someone replaced a recepticle and made both recepticle switch. Becareful and maybe check with someone local. There may be some thing unexpected there.

Thanks, I appreciate it! Just glad to be helping people out. I’ll keep hammering away at it and we’ll see what the future holds.

That is correct. But I could have kept it and add another switch for the fan. I personally didn’t want that switch anymore. It switched power to a wall outlet for a lamp. No need for that functionality. I rewired the outlet so it is not switched and always has power.

Absolutely! Thanks!

I drilled from the bottom so: 1) insulation would not fall all over through the hole 2) so I would not drill through any electrical wire that may be laying up there

There is a ceiling box for this purpose; to install in a finished ceiling with no attic access from above. amzn.to/3Q7v01w For running the wire, you will need to cut access holes through the drywall at intervals to be able to route it, then patch the holes.

Also, you can use a ceiling fan that has a remote control to turn it on and off. Then you only need to run power to it. You don’t have to wire a switch in the wall.

I agree. The store was sold out and I wanted to push forward. Old work is the way.

Typically 14 gauge in a home.

Isn't tape around the screws only needed on a metal box?

Thanks!

I wired the outlet so it always has power and no longer switched. In my specific case, the top outlet was switched and the bottom outlet always had power (the connecting tab between them was removed to make them independent). I just installed a new outlet leaving the connecting tab in place.

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial So the switch no longer went to the outlet? Did it have power to turn on the fan or light?

@@davidcarroll4939 That’s correct, the switch no longer went to the outlet. Constant power came into the switch box, connected to the switch, and the switch used to send power to the outlet. I ran a new set of wires to the ceiling fan, so now the power still comes into the switch box, connected to the new double switch, which sends power to the fan and fan light. The wires that used to bring switched power from the switch to the outlet are not connected and do nothing (they are still in the wall from the switch box to the outlet box, but are not connected to the switch or the out).

Yes, it is a Universal ceiling box. The mounting is an industry standard, and any ceiling fan will fit.

Lol. You can handle it! Drywall is typically 1/2” thick. You need to drill the hole regardless, so you can drill the 4” diameter hole and measure the thickness of it.

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Great! Glad it helped!

Glad it was helpful!

I definitely fixed that.

The ceiling box in the video supports 70 pounds.

You can fish a new wire down inside the wall. You can do it!

Thanks. I appreciate it. The old work box is only supported by the drywall, and I believe is rated for 50 lbs. I think my fan required 70 lbs, but not sure. Either way, I definitely did not want to support my ceiling fan by the drywall. I would personally not install a ceiling fan at all without supporting it from the joists. Also, a ceiling fan results in a dynamic load (it is not just a static weight) which will cause failures in the future. There is another product available for installing a box without access from above. I would recommend this over an old work box. amzn.to/36lFToH I would use an old work box for a light fixture that doesn’t weigh much, but definitely not a ceiling fan.

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial not for the fan, for your light switch. The plastic tabs turn out to secure to the drywall. Instead of having to pull the nails out of a new construction box breaking the loops off and running screws through it. It just seems like a lot of unnecessary effort.

@@andrewkampmann7170 OK, got it! That makes more sense. Pretty much the same scenario. It was honestly pretty easy. I had to break out the old box regardless. Cutting the tabs and towing in a couple screws took less than a minute. The box was cheaper, and I just preferred to utilize the stud since it was there, as opposed to only clamping onto the drywall. But, great point! An old work switchbox is a great suggestion!

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Although you did a very neat and thorough job and explained things very well, by code you can't use the receptacle box that you used for the following reasons: You used a "New Work" box. 1)These boxes are designed to be mounted using the nails provided with the attached brackets. By screwing directly into the side of the box, you're doing a modification that's not approved. 2) Those knockouts are meant to be removed, as you did, because in new work the romex is secured within 12 inches of the box. Obviously, you can't secure the romex behind the sheetrock in old work. An "Old Work" box is designed just for that: Old work in an existing wall. It has tabs to secure it to the wall, or some actually have screws through the sides, but they are designed to be that way. Old work boxes also have different tabs for the wire to come through. They are not meant to come out, but provide stress relief to the wire. As I've said, the job you did was very well done, and I'm only bringing this to your attention not to criticize you but because seeing how you like doing things right, You'd want to be aware of this.

@@JohnBGood-kq3ul Thanks. Constructive feedback is always welcome and I definitely do want to be aware of this. Thanks for the taking the time to share this. I appreciate it!

If you are on the first story and don’t have access from above… This box is specifically made to install through a blind hole with no access from above. However, you will still like need to cut access holes to run the wire, then repair the holes afterwards. amzn.to/3yRpIhl

Lol. I was active duty a little over 20 years ago when they had just switched from sweats to these black pants and gray jacket. They didn’t have the belt then. I think the jacket was a little reflective, but probably not enough. The belt must have came later.

Yes, now it has power all the time like a normal outlet.

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I connected it. It was spliced directly to the line in power, before the switch, so it always has power. So, in the switch box: 3 neutral/white wires in the wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to the fan, (3) line out to something else. 3 hot wires in a wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to something else, (3) a short jumper to the switch. (Or, you could connect both the line in and the line out to the switch if the switch has previsions to accept 2 wires at the input) 4 ground wires crimped or in a wire nut; (1) line in from the breaker, (2) line out to the fan, (3) line out to something else, (4) short jumper to the switch. I hope that makes sense.

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial oh I see, I just got a bit lost in that part in the video but it makes sense now, thanks for the reply man and great videos!

@@robertokuri7108 I probably should have added one more diagram with the extra line out spliced in to clear it up. Thanks, I appreciate it!

Oh, wow!

Glad it was helpful! I hope you find some of the other videos helpful or entertaining!

The only responsible and safe advice I can give is to consult a qualified electrician and install a grounded circuit box and run grounded wiring.

Nice! Thanks for sharing!

Happy it helped! I served active duty army in the early 2000s. I still have several pairs of boots and still use them regularly!

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The color is associated with the wire gauge, not related to 2 wire vs 3 wire. 14 gauge is white 12 gauge is yellow 10 gauge is orange I used 14 gauge

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💪

Sorry I couldn’t help you out with this one. Good luck!

Not the right application for a 3 way switch. 3 way switches allow you to control a device from two different locations. There would be two 3 way switches connected to the device, with both switches in different locations, so you could control the device from two different sides of the room for example.

Thank you very much!

No problem. Romex 14/3 with ground: www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Romex-SIMpull-25-ft-14-3-Non-Metallic-Wire-By-the-Roll/1000156173

I appreciate it, glad you found it helpful!

Glad it was helpful! I used 14/3 (plus ground).

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thanks for sharing..!

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The outlet is still functional. It is now always hot.

You can use a wire nut, that’s no problem. You can also twist them or crimp them because the connection doesn’t need to be insulated.

Metal boxes should be connected to the ground circuit. To be safe, jumper from the wire nut with the other ground wires in the box to the green screw inside of the box.

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial that makes sense, thanks.

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The fan speed is not controlled from the switch. There is a chain on the fan that you have to pull to change the speed between low medium and high. know there are fans available that come with a remote control so you can change the speed from the remote instead of pulling the chains. A possible thought that I have is to use a dimmer switch, and always leave the chain on the high position. Then you can change the speed from low to high with the dimmer switch. I do not know if it is a valid solution, but may be something to look into.

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial it is possible to install a dimmer switch to control the fan. Additionally, you can use the pull chain to set the fan to high to control the speed with the dimmer and the chain can be removed from the fan for a cleaner look.

@@GarrettRAllen Perfect, thanks!

Glad you found it helpful!

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Thanks, I appreciate it. I have the next 5 videos planned and started. And a long list of additional future videos. I’ll keep them coming.

What Gauge wiring you are using

@@miguelcolon8929 14 gauge

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