Stephany, thank you for your video on how to replace a pop-up drain system. Your instructions are AWESOME to follow. You're a great instructor. Thanks again.
Thank you Tammy, we've put a lot of effort into making each video as clear as possible. Our newer videos even have graphics and animations to explain the principles. For example here's one on electricity and multimeters: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r_migcta_Is.html
You're welcome Corie, we're so glad that the video helped you with your repair! We figure that a lot of our videos are watched more than once, during the first watch through people get familiar with the repair and decide if its something they want to attempt, and the 2nd watch through people really focus on each step to do the repair.
Yes these projects are so easy with brand new stuff. Except I never had a plumbing job go easily. And with a 14 year old sink, I had a propane torch out to try to heat the lock nut. And when you turn the nut with channel locks, the whole stopper assembly just spins and the nut doesn't loosen. And that's where the fun starts. So out come the vise grips so I could grip the pipe itself and the nut both and turn the pipe as I held the nut. After 45 minutes, I think I got it turned about a sixteenth of an inch. LOL. My back got so tired I had to get up and quit for a while. I'll come back later. If that doesn't work, the sawzall is coming out!
Thanks for sharing your experience. When filming in our studio we've opted to use new parts, as this can make it easier to see what is going on. The steps are the same with old and rusted parts except for the expected detours. It is hard to predict what things will make the repair more difficult. I've had automotive repairs that seemed simple, only to be delayed for 45 minutes because a break line was in the way of 1 bolt which made it extremely difficult to access with a wrench. What seemed simple in the manual didn't reflect the reality. We do however try to cover more of these sorts of realities in our never videos.
Thanks for this! The pop-up plug on my wife’s sink came off somehow, and I couldn’t figure out how to get it back onto the pivot rod. When I saw your video at 2:30 and realized how simple it was, I did a 🤦🏻♂️. Simple fix after that. Thanks.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! Check back in a couple of days and we'll have another 2 dozen Refrigerator repair videos published. They will all eventually be added to this playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq
@@NetanyaGila Yes very busy but we're just glad to share these. This is just the first half of the series. Will be another 40 videos on the ice machine, water dispenser, accessories as well as door & gasket repair. So still more work to be done!
Very helpful for understanding the basics. I really wish it were more real-world though, in this video removal was a snap. But mine was decades-old and rusted with old plumber's tape blocking the threads and it took some ingenuity to remove it. I have the feeling that most people would be replacing a very old part with a new one.
Hi Dave, thanks for watching. You are right that it can be helpful to see the real world example with parts that are rusted, dirty and difficult to remove. For these videos we decided to set up a sink film something that let us get good lighting and camera angles to show the parts. You can't always get those kind of quality shooting in a bathroom. We might revisit these videos in the future though.
@@montellwilliams811 Thanks for watching. Do you mean that the sink will not hold water when the pop up is down? Or is the drain itself still leaking into your cabinet below?
@@montellwilliams811 Its worth reinstalling after cleaning the drain collar and the part of the sink that its going to make contact with. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-49a27LKG4kI.html
Great video but you forgot one thing when reconnecting the pivot rod. You forgot to mention to remove old washer if there is one and how to and where to install the washer that comes with the new pivot rod assembly.
Hi John, thanks for watching. That is a good point, we might do an update and re-film this video as its one of the older ones on our channel, so those details would be added in the update. Cheers!
Yup, and you might emphasize that putting the stopper with the bottom tab to the front is important. Easy to put in backwards and you won't know it until the stopper doesn't travel up and down as far as you would like. Turning it around correctly will allow the stopper to travel up and down adequately. Good video.
Thanks for your helpful advice as I am about to install a pedestal sink with a pop up drain like the one you show in your video 🙂 and remember, God loves you and wants your love also 🙂 Thanks again 🙂
Comment Part 2: I realized when I finally got the lock nut loose, unlike the one you're using, it doesn't slide all the way off the bottom. It drops about an inch or so and then you unscrew the top stopper part to remove it and then it drops downward through the hole rather than upward through the hole. So you never know what chocolate flavor you're going to get.
Again hard to predict with all the variations in parts. We might return to these videos and do an update at one point to cover more of these sorts of details. For the time being we're still filming more appliance repair videos including a series on refrigerators due in 2022.
Thanks, Stephany! But I usually have problems with the seals or washers with the p-trap. As usual, not enough space to work with. This hurts my back everytime.
You're welcome Ben! Any work under the sink is more difficult due to the tight space. Some people have found that putting a sheet of plywood or even an old ironing board can help give you something to lie down on. Do a quick search you might find some ideas based on what other people have used!
This is the sixth video I watched about this procedure. Not one of the videos mentioned proper installation of the concave washer(s) around the ball on the pivot rod. I put one washer in first, rounded side against the pivot rod ball, then tightened down the nut. It leaked. Then I tried pivot rod and ball first, then concave washer against the ball. Unable to tighten the pivot rod nut. It’s spaced too far from the threads. This procedure should mention installation of those concave washers. They’re obviously meant to sit with the rounded side against the pivot rod ball (somehow).
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. These were some of the first videos that we released. If we redo these videos we'll go into more detail to cover these smaller parts.
On the instructions on an American Standard faucet it says to “make sure SEALS are installed in the PIVOT NUT and the DRAIN BODY” but all they gave me was a plastic cylinder washer and rubber washer. The picture looks totally different. Do you need to put seals around that PIVOT NUT?
Thanks for watching. It's been a while since we've filmed this so these exact details are hard to remember. There might be a washer inside or the plastic ball might just make a direct connection with the ball surface. Since the drain does not have pressurized water, the type of seal needed is not as robust as a pressurized water inlet. If you do a "bathroom sink drain pop up part explosion" search on google you might be able to find a parts breakdown for a model similar to yours. Hope this helps.
@@AmreSupply thanks, I actually followed the instructions for the ball rod using Delta's instructions instead. Lol The plastic piece is actually a pivot seat. Both pieces including the rubber gasket goes behind the pivot ball on the rod. The picture in the instructions do not match the pieces that came with the product. The product I have is a Bedminster Centerset Faucet from American Standard.
Hi Franklin, thank you for watching. There should be a small ball and a plastic or rubber washer that the nut will tighten against. If you pause the video around 2:08 you should see that plastic washer. As long as the washer is installed, then the connection for the pop up rod should not leak.
Please Help... Whats brand is this pop up drain assembly?. I have corroded rod on my sink, so just need the replacement rods. Its exactly the same constructionbut i cant figure out the brandname to order replacement parts..
Thanks for watching. These were some of the first videos that we made, so we'll likely return to it at some point and update the videos with additional details like that and graphics.
I bought a pop-up kit from home Depot. Where that lever goes in with the round ball, there is no washer or compression ring. I cannot get it to stop leaking from there. I thought maybe my kit was missing the compression ring, so I went back to home Depot and bought a second kit and discovered that it also does not have a compression ring or washer where that round ball for the lift rod goes in. I have taken the nut off and rethreaded it several times but cannot get the leaking to stop. Help!
Hi Bill, thank you for watching. Most kits should come installed with a washer that sits under the ball lever before the cap is placed on. Other kits just use the compression from the nut to make the seal. If you kit doesn't have a washer you might be able to purchase one separately.
Thanks for watching. There are other ways that these are mounted. Is your drain similar to the one in this video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ls3HGF-xs9I.html
My drain has the nut above a threaded area where the ball goes for the pop up. Therefore I cannot remove the drain tube at all. I am so confused on what to do. This video does not show what I have.
Hi cocatfan, thank you for watching. The drain tube itself will unscrew from the top piece as its likely threaded in. www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/toilets-sinks-showers-dishwashers-tubs-garbage-disposals/82095d1497669239-installing-pop-up-drain-plumbers-putty-popup.jpg
Okay well not only does the trap on the sink I'm working on not have a drain on it but the trap is glued in and can't be removed by just unscrewing the connections...
Thank you for watching. If the p-trap is glued and can't be removed, then you might have to cut the pipe downstream of the p-trap. Then you'll likely have to glue a coupler to attach a new p-trap. If it helps we made a video showing how to glue ABS pipe in general: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pYQVUWPR85E.html
at 2:08 you say to screw the bottom of the drain on but we never took the bottom of the drain off in the first place. The instruction for the removal process is severely lacking as it shows a drainpipe that does not have the extra bottom part of the drain that comes with a pop-up drain. Possibly this looks so simple because it completely skips a significant part of the removal process. Removing the bottom of an old drain pipe from the top part is one of the hardest parts of this process and you didn't even mention it. Guess I will have to go somewhere else. #frustrated
Hi James, thank you for watching. The p-trap can be unscrewed or pivoted out of the way which is shown at 0:57 . Alternatively in some cases you can unscrew and remove the drain vertically without moving or pivoting the p-trap.
Yup, same, I love how easy this video makes it look, but it's not thorough enough. I had the same problem getting this stinker off! For anyone else with this problem, I just ended up googling "removing a pop up drain" and found a better instructions around the 30 second mark of this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J-hJQnjneLA.html Basically, you can unscrew the flange (the little silver disk on top) from the rest of the drain. But if your parts are too corroded like mine where, you have to patiently hacksaw it off. Try not to cuss too much. 😂
Don't toss your old drain til the new one is completely installed. Not a 5 minute job, as only newer houses have movable j-trap pipe. These instructions presume you do, and that the tailpiece fits perfectly to the j-trap pipe. Other notes, - Push the first pipe up through the sink, screw the drain ring on, then pull it down with popup lever facing the back, then tighten big black gasket and large nut against it. This produces a way better seal on the drain ring, to keep crud out. - Notch on the popup stopper faces back of the sink, on a Moen, facing front the up and down toggle doesn't reach the notch. - Never had a problem swiftly installing American Standard, Delta or Kohler. Moen, not only was it a week and a half to get the right parts from Moen (that weren't in the box), I got metal slivers from their unsanded tailpiece.
Thank you for sharing your notes, other people might find them helpful as well. This was one of our first videos that we created on RU-vid and we have stopped putting the time estimates on repairs or installations as this can vary a lot. We have also started to add more variations and flagging more things that one should look out for. Repairs will never be the same as case will be set up slightly differently, or will have differences between models.
@@AmreSupply I'm grateful for all help I find. I noticed detail missed in one video, iterated in another. The collective knowledge is very helpful Thanks for helping with our learning curves.
Thank you for watching. Stephany did a great job helping us in the beginning of this project but move onto other things. Vance has been working with us since and has been very helpful with our furnace, water and appliance series.
Thanks for watching. In most cases with this style of pop up drain removing the p-trap isn't necessary but we kept the step in because of the few steps that might need it. In retrospect it would have been helpful to clarify that point.
