For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Thank you that was a nice video I enjoyed it , thanks for posting it, people on here like arm chair carpenters ..easy to criticise when someone done all the work..most would be scared to do a video thinking of bad comments and so on .any way thanks again 👍🙏🏼👌🇬🇧
Did anyone else see at about 12:00 how loose & cracked the rafter was when he toe nailed it with the 2nd nail? Thing slid out 1/2" and he pulled it in by hand😂 Shoulda been a lesson on what not to do. Best use ties to avoid what he did..
@@JohnnyJr396 You are only taking into account the support of the rafter from the wall in, and in that you are correct. What you are not taking into account is the support of the rafter tail past the wall. THAT is where you are causing the stress point.
Not sure about cow boys! Hate to spoil people's fun, scribing on the outside is an excellent idea for people who don't like measurements! Thanks! Also, nice that you have parts so adjustments can be made if needed! Awesome!
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Question.... what if you took two normal 2x6 joist hangers and hung them on the ridge upside down and nailed your rafters from the side. Crazy idea?
Same question? If they are and can also be attached to top of ridge board. Then you have met code for unitizing the rafters. Then you won’t have to set a strap over the ridge board from rafter to rafter after the sheathing is installed. Or rafter ties.
This is just superb, I've been looking for "ridge board for steep pitched roof" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (do a google search ) ? It is a good exclusive guide for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my brother in law got great results with it.
The Birds mouth cut is too deep ! Maximum allowable depth of a Birdsmouth cut is 1/3 of the overall depth of the Rafter . That is a universal rule worldwide .
I can't find anywhere where my following question is addressed: How do locate the rafters on the ridge board from left to right or right to left?? I'm not talking about layout, but the starting point. How do you ensure the rafters will be square with the sheathing that will cover them? So far, everyone just throws the ridgeboard up and nails rafters to it without explaining how to line them up square. How do you do it?
Hi. I was wondering what the pitch is of your rafters? I need to determine how steep the roof should be in order to decide what type of tile to buy. It looks like a 7/12 pitch but I could be wrong.
@@SWhite-hp5xq No. The height or rise can be whatever you want it to be. Whether you want a steep roof or not. The length of the rafters or the pitch is determined by the Pythagoreum theory
You use what's called the total rise to set the height of your ridge board. Total rise is the run, in feet, times the pitch number. If you have a 20 foot wide building, the run is 10 feet. If your slope is 12/12, you will have 10 X 12 = 120. Your height will be 120 inches from the height above plate to the theoretical peak.
The find the run u can use construction master pro to find it, measure the span(exterior wall to exterior wall) for example if you have 25 ft you subtract 1 inch 1/2 (ridgeboard) then divide the result by 2 and that will be where your ridgboard will land
@@cindyjohnson5242 You're welcome. Just remember, this is the THEORETICAL height of your peak. The ridge board will be set slightly lower because you have to shorten your rafters by 1/2 the thickness of the ridge board. Also, add in the height above plate distance to bring the measurement all the way down to the wall plates if you're setting up center gable studs to sit the ridge board on.
He says um about 50,000 times throughout these series… lol maybe not the best speaker but great to educator. The um makes it sounds like he doubts what he’s saying but the results speak for themselves
Hello there. Guys, I am watching you over and over again most of the time when i have a problem. My problem is this. I am building porch cover with gable roof. I figured out measurements for comon rafter, birds mouth etc, but since porch gable roof is going to be connected with existing roof how do i cut and measure those small valley rafter. Thank you
NSM Construction .... Thank you guys very much for your kindness. I'll use your tip for valley jack rafter and help from other people videos. I saw all your videos so far and what I like about your videos is explanation of all detail possible . Excellent job . Please, make some videos about home edition , room , roof , etc. Keep doing what you doing.
common rafter run x 16.97 / 12. that will give your hip or valley rafter run. now to find the hip or valley rise is/ Valley rafter run x 8/16.97 , just remember that is center line of the stock so when you cut your beveled end thats to the center line of hip or valley rafter
Easiest way is to get your valley rafter/lay board installed depending on wether or not your existing roof is to be trimmed out or not and simply mark your rafter centres. Then measure them with a tape. If all is straight then you can work out a common difference in length and cut them all. The plumb cut on a cripple rafter or jack rafter ( cripple to a valley, jack to a hip) is the same as your common rafter and you can find your edge cut at the wall plate where the valley/hip meet the wall plate just take the angle between a parallel line with your common rafter up your hip or valley at the pitch of the roof not level. Hope that is of some help.
The toe nailing of the bird's mouth wasn't done correctly. The nail was started too far from the top plate. It was about twice the distance it should have been. An inspector would probably fail it.
Safety is not the priority here as in many of the videos. Maybe they should be using ladders and safety lines. Other than the safety issues, he has good knowledge of the trade for sure.
no, but the birdmouth is designed to keep the walls from splaying outwards from snowload and such. Also, cutting them too deep will result in a weak birdsmouth so why would you make the effort but not do it right...inspector may just fail your project.
@@kenthelliker2112 not saying you're wrong about the size of the birdsmouth, but your explanation of why doesn't make sense. spreading forces are applied *by the rafter*. I always thought you wanted a good amount of wood left to resist bending stresses on the eave overhang.
No edge protection and no underside protection. Good demonstration on how not to work on a roof. Biggest killer in the construction industry - working at height.
I was wondering something similar. How do you know the ridge is level now , it appeared you just moved it around as you pleased. I never saw a level... Not being an ass, I'm asking to learn.
Shouldn't be the bird mouth cut in only 1/3 that rafter? That your is like half ha ha, but I don't know I am not carpenter yet... I can see you are, then why is like that?
Good job. It would have been easier to build the whole gable wall on the ground first. would have saved you a lot of work up in the air. Not only that but it would have given you a pocket for yor Ridge nice and solid. Just a tip for you guys.
3:37 isn't that bird mouth to big ....I am not an expertos, but bird mouth cut, should not go over 1/3 of the lenght of the rafter...this bird mouth on the video, is almost hitting half of the rafter. .. Just saying
Video says how to install a ridge board but starts off with it already up. How can you trust information from ppl who can’t even figure out what they are posting. #WasteOfTime
Nails are better sometimes . Screws can snap , they have little shear strength in most types . I prefer nails for most applications . Pro framer since 1978 .
@@NSMConstruction would deck screws be acceptable? i see a lot of people using those and impact drivers for construction and repair(even got to use theirs, them things are fun)
Nails destroy the wood it goes into, so the wood does not SPLIT as with screws. You would have to pre-drill ever spot so the wood doesn't split. Without pre-drilling, the screws weaken the wood, degrading the structural integrity and unless they are structural screws, they are not to code and have no shear strength like nails do but they also can not allow for movement from an earthquake like nails can.
