Been a long minute since I've seen a pair of duct cutters. Great video good see an installer know proper drip-edge technique and purpose of a T-wedge on square cut fascia.
Here's something to think about. The reason an elbow comes in a bag is so you have something to put over your finger when you're sealing corners and end caps. Getting any gutter seal on the hands sucks. Been doing this and siding since 1983 and the best thing I've figured out is that it's to my advantage to leave my level at the shop. I'd rather be straight with the house then put a level downspout on a crooked house. With the piece you're hanging simply go as far as you can with the gutter on the left end and bring the right end down so it's just under the roof edge. Adjust the middle so it keeps a positive slope to the downspout. Every time you make a downspout take note of the measurement between the back bottom corner of the gutter to the wall. Now, an 8 inch overhang means putting 2 elbows together straight out of the box. From there take note of the measurements and I go up to 36 inches so I don't have to do any of that holding 2 elbows up needing a third hand to measure. Just look at the chart and a 16'' overhangs needs, say, a 12 inch piece of downspout for the top and take a whole lot of guess work out of the equation. I never cut my outlet hole on the ground. It's far easier to put the downspout on the wall then finding where it's square with the gutter and drill the hole with a hole saw and pay an extra 35 cents for an outlet. Your hangers are the best on the market and I won't do a job without them. My last job I asked my customer if he'd like for me to hang off the gutter and those Hangtite's will do it. He climbed the ladder and felt the gutter and told me he was sold on it. I wouldn't have thought twice about hanging off it. Dude get a good miter saw for those downspouts. Say you're on a hip roof house with 10 downspouts. You're spinning your wheels by using snips so it's not a matter of the saw being an expense, it'll pay for itself and keep both ends of the top piece of downspout as it's a bitch sometimes getting the elbow on the downspout and doesn't stretch the metal like snips will. Just trying to help not trying to tear you down. Good luck!!
It’s really cool to see how other companies do these installs and prep work. I have to say though man, we do things a lot different. A lot of that stuff I was told was a gutter pro no no from the start. Lol. But still really neat to see the differences.
Thank you for the valuable information. I'm looking at starting this service with my Window and Door Company. What seamless gutter machine do you recommend?
Hey i use a saw to cut my downspout’s could you possibly drop a link for the cutter you use looks a lot better than having to carry a saw around to cut a downspout
Great video! I have a question if you hang a 80 foot gutter and have 2 downspouts 1 on each end I'm guessing you don't slope the gutter and hang it level?
@@StartARainGutterBusiness do you go by foot then?? What about labor do you factor that in hourly?? Looking to start a gutter business and dont have much knowledge on things like that
Love the punch. Just as fast as drilling, but less mess and cleaner hole. When you have a house with perimeter drains do you worry about debris flowing down the downspout and building up in their drainage system?
Not everybody can afford the cutter machine. Why dont you show people like me how to do gutters the original way. Let modern equipt step bk as much as can be. A LOT more interesting, save money and PROUD of what uv done thus pride in ur home. Thks!@
And you didn’t add a 1/2 for the end cap. 1/4 not enough. That shingle should line up right with the inside of endcap. It will catch all drips that way. Adding a 1/4 will put it even with the cap and you will still have dripping. That punch is bad ass tho. I need check into getting one those
So I’ve heard you say 1/4in drop in gutter per 40ft??? Did I hear that correct? Been installing gutter every day for 3 1/2 years and I’m NO professional trust me. But I have always read 1/4in per 10ft? Hell I even read 1/2in drop per 10ft. Check google. I’m asking so I know. Thank you
take a short piece of gutter, say 4inches....put it under the gutter apron/dripedge in the middle of the gutter...draw a line under it with your pencil....hammer in a trim nail to hang a chalk line off.....now go to the spot you want the downspout, and put your test gutter barely under the gutter apron...draw a line with your pencil....now snap a chalk line ....this keeps the gutter high on the high end and under the apron at the low end, to give it maximum pitch ....if the house is reallycrooked and you have to go below the apron for it to flow, add some counter flashing, to prevent water running behind the gutter. 00.02
The hangers with screws built in can be more convenient, but after putting up thousands it becomes cost prohibitive!! The hangers with screws are over twice the cost.
The prehung hangers have 2 main benefits. They are wider (and stronger) and they are faster to install because you aren't fighting with the screw. You'll notice he's using a hex head type screw that magnets into his driver (same as his zip screws). So he can set the screw with less time lost than using square or (heaven forbid) star drive screws. So he gets most of the benefit, for a tenth of the cost of the prehung hangers. (Hex drive screws are more expensive than regulars screws. But way less expensive than the nicer hangers.)
@@StartARainGutterBusiness I use the bh53 most of the time, but if your using wedges like you are, the 50s (your using) work the best. If I use the 50s I use #10 metal to wood screw or barn screw.
To install a downspout front the middle of the outlet you just measure to the siding and take 7 inches and you get the exactly measurements for the extension you are wasting time and make it more complicated
I'm pretty sure it snows where this home is / this installer is using a Raytec Hidden Hanger which is the weakest hanger on the market / normally the videos this installer makes are pretty good / shame to see he is not using a snow hanger / I have seen a Raytec bend under a lot of weight of the snow / I have been install since 1977 in the mountains and I put my wedges every 16 inches as to NEVER have a callback ( plus I paint my wedges ) I don't like to see unpainted metal where the nice green gutter is ( why not hide them ) / I do like how he explains every move he is doing / my advice to homeowners is to pay the extra money to have a Licenced Contractor with good reviews to install your gutters / and do not pick one with a 1-year workmanship guarantee / if it's not 5 years or more ( in writing ) send him packing / and one last thing / have a good leaf guard installed if it snows where you live / it's more to keep the snow out of your gutters / when it snows , it will fill up your gutters and block the water from flowing / leaf guards will fix that problem / if you ever have any questions you can look me up / www.RainGuttersByRock.com / Thanks