Ahh nice! It's really not too difficult once you understand how it all goes together. Sure beats the 30k we were quoted to have it put in! It's been working well for about 3 years now! Best of luck!
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing. It directly applies to stuff I'll be needing to do going forward. I've seen the single piece ballast bottoms so that's another thing I can look for is the sectional cast ballast.
Are you asking about the termination of the 1.25" line? It goes into a manhole and then into a 3" or 4" schedule 40 drop line inside the manhole. I have a separate video on my page of that process.
I'm trying to put together an active pump out end of days downspout collection system with sewer pumps like this that go to the street or the storm. Is it possible to use this for that sort of application in a zone 7 climate like Western New York? In other words freezing winters? Looks like this is well below the frost line certainly. Bring all the downspouts to an exact silo like this and then pump discharge line into the storm drain and/or street? I'm hoping to use SDR 11 for the infeeds from the downspouts as well trying to decide if I would electrically weld, melt together or use compression fittings? Would love any insight
An amazingly concise, clear, unambiguous instructive -- like ALL videos you make. Thank you so much. A question for you: I have an RV in the back of my home, about 130' from the street sewer. I was allowed to install a grinder and run a 130' discharge line from it to the street clean out, which in turn empties into the sewer. I am now wanting to convert a barn-style garage to a "mother in law" dwelling. The plan is to 1) install a second grinder whose 2) discharge line connects to the existing grinder's discharge line. Now comes the problem. The 1st line runs somewhat uphill. If I "T" the 2nd line into it I am concerned that "stuff" in the 2nd line could backup into the 1st line. Do you happen to know if this is a) do-able or b) not recommended or c) ok but requires some special "T" that perhaps closes line 1 while line 2 is discharging? Thank you so much. Your videos ROCK.
Hey James, thank you very much! I appreciate that. I try to be helpful and informative. First of all, can you elaborate on this "stuff" you speak of? haha JK. So to answer you question, A) Doable? Yea, probably so. You could install check valves on each line before the T. That way, once the "stuff" gets past the valve, it has no way to go backwards. B) Not recommended? I would say that's up to your local sewer provider? They had a lot of say in my build. C) See item B. I think they should be able to tell you what is code/permissible. The fact that they let you hookup a grinder for your RV would leave me to believe that they dont' care. Or if you want to go the don't ask/don't tell route, I think a couple check valves would get you what you need.
Do you have a video of your whole exiting plumbing setup? Curious to know what you used as a resource to figure this all out. We are in the process of building a house that requires a grinder pump and we have a finished basement. All the instructions I see are for a slab install. I can’t quite wrap my head around how to set this up with a basement. I see you mentioned in the comments that you also have a sewer pump. I’m assuming that is the missing link in my mind. Curious to know more on your setup. Thanks!
I don't think I have a video, but shoot me an email and I can send you some pictures or a video of our final setup. At the time, figuring all this out was a combination of online research, my plumber, the local utility, and the Eone rep. Ha
Hi…nice job! I am researching this subject because I am building a shop with a bathroom…that is about 15 feet lower than the septic tank. My frostline is 32” here in Colorado, and this seems like it definitely would meet that requirement. I have a question if I may…are you pushing it 800feet to sewer..or to septic? I am guessing sewer? My understanding is Grinder pumps are for sewer…and sewer/septic ejector pumps are for septic? I would like to find this style with an ejector pump for septic tanks. Thanks for the video…
Thanks! Yes, I believe you are correct. This grinder pump terminates at the sewer. A sewer ejector pit/pump is what you would want. In cases of a basement, the pit/pump is inside. I suppose you could have your shop empty into a pit like this outside that acts as a lift station to your septic tank. Sounds like you definitely are going to be pumping uphill to get to your tank. I'm not sure what kind of head a normal ejector pump will do. This grinder pump will do something ridiculous like 185ft of head.
Does your sewer line from the basement gravity flow to this pump assembly i couldn't tell from the video ? I am about to begin construction on a new lake house and i will have to pump uphill from the septic to the field lines
Could you not have dropped your sewer at the clean-out and put a sweep on it before going into the side of the grinder so the unit could be set lower for back-filling?
Looking back on it, I suppose I could have. Truly, the issue wasn't the discharge location of the line from the house, but rather the fact that our foundation crew stepped the wall down (I don't know why) by a foot in that section. If you look at the 11:03 mark, you can see the concrete is a foot higher in the corner and then drops down. Had they carried that height across, it would have been perfect.
I don't believe the hose itself has a check valve on it, but I am pretty sure there is 1, if not 2 in the unit itself. The line could freeze if you don't bury it deep enough. Code in your area would dictate the depth. Mine is at about 48" deep.
Yea, in retrospect that would have worked. It would have meant more depth for my discharge line though too. That area near the house isn't perfect but it's working out OK. Suppose I know for next time, but I also hope there never is a next time. ha
I have both! We have a finished basement with a bathroom and the exit point for sewage from our house is higher than the basement sewer pit. Thus, we have an ejector sewage pump to lift sewage out of our basement. Those are typically short runs. Very much like a sump pump, but rated for sewage. It lifts it and discharges it from the house into our E-One grinder pump. The E-One then 'slurries' and pumps it 800ft from our house. So they really have very different uses. I would say a good rule of thumb to keep it straight in your head is that the 'ejector' ejects it from the house and a 'grinder', "gets it gone".
If you don't have a generator and the power goes out you still can't flush the toilet when you are on well water. Mute point for us, but definitely applicable if you are on city water with septic.
This is the DH071. It requires a dedicated 30amp breaker and it is 240v. If you go to eone.com, you can download a manual for all their models which will give you specific wiring details.
That's a good question. I'm not sure what the code says. I can tell you that the power cord for the pump is probably 15ft or so. My guess is that's probably a good yardstick to follow.
Calculate your head. And make sure you are meeting scouring velocity of the 1.25 you are going to have a lot of head for that long of a line. You may not be pumping fast enough. You may have settling in your pipe. E ones are not very powerful pumps. :/ There are a lot of other pumps for the same price that are more powerful and reliable . Let me see if I can find the head calculator
Yes it is. You won't find it at your big box stores. You will need to go to a specialty plumbing supplier or check online. 1.25" HDPE or also called SDR11
