In this video, we go over how to install a Shark Bite Slip Fitting. Slip T Fitting: amzn.to/3tC0ssI Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/3EFcvf8 Pipe Brush: amzn.to/3OX7pQt
@@efd so for the slip end i saw other ppl mark it so they both have mark on both sides after pushing in...do u need that or only on one side, i didnt c that in ur vid, also does it have to be 2"to cut??
The insertion depth on the 1/2 inch fittings is 15/16 inches . So where he marked the pipe on the right was over 15/16 so he was good because he marked 1” HEAVY . ( for those who might think it was not inserted enough) .
I have put shark bite shutoff valves in my whole house along with installing a water heater with shark bite hoses and a shutoff valve. The valves and hoses range from 10 to 15 years old. I did not have any installation issues or leaks and have not had any issues or leaks since installation. Thanks for the video! Mike in DFW
I watched a few how-to videos before my plumbing project this morning, and this was probably the most useful one of the bunch. Thank you for including everything, even the stuff that didn't go well.
As others stated, debur. Sharkbite does sell a deburring tool. 1. The purpose for deburring is to eliminate damage, cut or gouge, to the O ring inside the Sharkbite, thus eliminating the possibility for leaks to occur 2. Deburring helps the pipe slide more easily into the Sharkbite. 3. Deburring creates a better seal at the seat inside the Sharkbite. For copper you do not need to have those plastic inserts in the Sharkbite. The white plastic inserts provide strength for PEX, copper does not require the inserts.
@@efd Thank you for your polite reply. Good news, the deburring tool and depth gauge is one device. It is my hope the following Amazon link is helpful: www.amazon.com/U-S-Solid-Deburring-Depth-Copper/dp/B09K727B1P/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=SKUJYMOTJ6DV&keywords=sharkbite+deburring+tool&qid=1661972935&sprefix=sharkbite+de%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
@@omarwilliams6729 Shark Bite tells you to deburr the inside of copper pipe to prevent damage to o-ring. Just because this guy does not deburr does not make it right.
@@davidkiser4758 I understand. But Shark B isn't the law. Do as thou wilt and that shall be the law! Start doing things your own way now and stop being led! Are you a sheep!
@@omarwilliams6729 NO I am not a sheep but I believe the manufacturer and pros who have used these for more than 15 years know better than some random weekend warrior. Someone who likes to take shortcuts to save 30 seconds should not post and pretend he knows everything. There are people who watch his video and rely on it and are getting misleading advice.
Definitely agree that the removal tongs are far superior to that little scrap of plastic that is rarely usable beyond 2 or 3 tries before it becomes trash. The tongs also have some mechanical advantage which is quite useful.
Did you deburr the inside diameter after the cut? It is the seal inside that gets damaged by its sharp edges. Most pipe cutters dull after repeated use and damage push-on sealing fittings
splicing a orizontal pipe with shark bit fittings requires to be perfectly level across , straping the pipe to the ceiling studs strogly recomended. nice video.
@efd I'm in that situation right now but the problem is that I'm between 16" floor joists and the pipe will not move either way or flex ar all up & down once you cut out some in the middle where the damage was.
I do a nice clean cut on copper and don't sand the pipe and it's fine. Overboard. I've been a plumber for 30 years and with the shark bites, if you got a nice cut there's no need for all the cleaning. Never had them leak on me.
I always leave them in and haven’t had any issues. My thought is I don’t want to scratch or do something to the teeth/gasket accidentally when pulling it out
Where did you get the slick tubing cutter, and/or what brand is it? I just had to cut a copper pipe with only about 4" total clearance, not enough to swing my full sized cutter and so I had to buy a small one. Iit was a real pain in the constricted space!
All I know is those suckers DO NOT easily slip right on. Push this right on here and POP right on/ off is NS. You have to be aggressive. Tuday I had to use a crescent wrench, hammer amd beat that sucker to " Slip" on. Stores don't carry compression couples anymore, only bite. Could have been done in a fraction of the time with a compression. Surprisingly, woth all that banging and forcing it didn't leak, so far. Why did I need to use a slip? Glad you asked. The guy fixing the main line into our store apparently used a solder couple. Well, IMO it looks like forgot to account for the shark below so just a tad short so he soldered above the slip and the slip so basically the 2 pipe ends were simply held together with solder. Somehow it held up during last years TX freeze. This year it gave up. How that solder only held that pressure for the last year is beyond me. May simy slip on and off with new pipe but older pipe that has seen expansion and contraction isn't as simple as that.
You could call a real plumber instead of sharkbites or figure out how to use two wrench’s, or buy a $2,000 plus tool(and fittings) that 100x longer. This only applies to real plumbers #sharkbitesfail