At 4:55 you mention centering the new drain with the fixtures. Is that just a best practice for visual uniformity or is there actually a plumbing reason for that? For instance: if you are putting down an acrylic base like a Delta 500 or simular, and the existing drain doesn't quite line up but an oatey offset drain can be used to make up that little bit of difference.
My situation is slightly different I have existing toilet and want to connect a new shower line to it couple feet a way. The location is not basement but in the basement the drain for the toilet comes in couple feet below the of the toilet and connected to the main. will I have problem to cut below flange in order to put a PVC "T" because I don't know how i will cut the cast iron??
I have seen some let primer dry and some apply glue while primer is still wet for the chemical reaction. I usually apply glue pretty quick after priming. That gasket insert is interesting. They hold up for many years? I just removed an old tub and bought a new one. Thought I was going to have to hire $omeone to rework the drain when the old copper or brass came apart. Think I will just go pvc or snd like I did in the house I live in.
What is a pre-float pan? I install showers and we do a pre-slope pan, then the liner, and then the regular mud pan. Any mud pan or pre-slope on concrete needs to be a minimum of 3/4 of an inch thick so I am wondering what you are doing? You only left a half inch. I hate when plumbers mess me up and install the flange lower than 3/4 of an inch. It has to be cut and extended.
no way you tapped it lightly to drive it in. multi-tite gaskets are a pain to receive full depth insertion. Ridgid makes a tool to grip and insert the pipe. The best you can do is cover the pipe with multi tite lube and use a 2×4 as a lever. I have done this more times than I can count.
![How To Install A Shower Drain For Tile [Metal Pipe To 2" PVC]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
