Holy shit dude...I watched this vid so many times...I was nervous af putting in ring clips...I almost shit when it popped into place so fast! Thank you so much for created such helpful videos!
One main thing I noticed throughout this entire video, no cussing. We all want to cuss, I'm a big violator but it's nice not to hear a bunch of cussing. The big bore kit is exactly what's needed. I was building a bike with a Buell engine. This does make it easier. Thank you brother and God bless.
Thanks so much for taking the time to post such a GREAT video. I just used it as a guide for reinstalling the cylinders (with the pistons in them) after I changed the base O-ring on my 2002 Twin Cam (Road King).
Always learning a lot from you Hammer Dan. I am doing the top end on my 1991 Sportster and just watching you do this gave me the confidence to put it all back together. Thanks again!!
Dan is the MAN!!!! Nobody makes ,"MORE" real HP.!!! Did you see that head!?? Why didn't Eric Buell do this!? Jerry Branch did it for Harley Davidson's XR-1000's heads. Not,"caca!" Crankshaft no.#s REAL, rear wheel horsepower!! And for the pride in American Ingenuity, for a horsepower loving Americans. ✌️😎👍
Im ordering a 1275 kit for my s1w and sent my heads in for a CVJ and 30 degree squish. Is it necessary that i check my squish band or should be already good as you are doing all the work? Thank you for the great vids. Very informative. Looking forward to getting this done.
Hi Mike, the actual squish clearance you achieve depends on several dimensions, everything from case height and connecting rod length to cylinder height and compression height. Each of those dimensions has a tolerance and every motor has a unique combination of tolerance stack up. That's a fancy way of saying that squish clearances vary and it's impossible for us to predict how yours is going to come out because the parts we sell you are only a portion of the story. So it's always a good idea to check it. We have a video on checking it and we also have instructions here: hammerperf.com/ttcheckingsquish.shtml#measuresquish
@@Granto-ni9qw Go here for a list of everything recommended and required for a successful 1275 conversion to a late model 1200 like yours: www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#enginekitlist . For each item, there's a description explaining what it is and why you need or might want it, and a link to where you can find it on the web site.
I use a long tire valve tool to install clips that are new and stiff it keep's me from driving a small and Sharp screw driver into my own flesh again like I have for so many years ..Because lets face it after you do that to your finger your finger is useless for at least a week ...
I’ve always heard to never put the wrist pin circlips in with the opening in the 3:00 or 9:00 position... theory being, the up/down motion of the piston can be extreme enough at high revs to cause the clip to flex and come free. Putting them in with the opening at the 12:00 or 6:00 (more common) will not let that happen. Is this not a concern on these motors? Ie: they don’t rev high enough?
I build car engines and we use spiral locks because of that problem. Pain in the butt but they don't come out, I would prefer them in my kit or measure them and add them myself.
I want the 1275 kit for my 94 883 so it has monster tq. Rpms are not a concern for me as I want a highway cruiser with great acceleration. I don't race.
I have had the '98 883 redone to S&S 1200 for 20+ years. This last Rebuild she got to +40, she's getting tired.. I'm gonna need to get Betty a Upgrade. The 1275 or the 90ci which way would YOU go?
Why wouldn’t someone buy it pre setup?? 40.00 bucks for all of that? That’s a deal. I really can’t see myself riding a sportster unless it was the biggest bore kit and with Buell heads/ported etc
What you're seeing is the way a Buell is constructed. The engine & swingarm & rear wheel is one assembly, and the frame and front forks and front wheel are a separate assembly. The two assemblies are bolted together at three main points, through rubber mounts, and there are links that keep everything in alignment. The links allow the motor to move up and down, but not twist relative to the frame/front wheel assembly. To take one apart, you unbolt the three rubber mounts and the links and a few other things like the carb and exhaust, and you roll the frame and front wheel away like a wheelbarrow. But none of that is actually necessary to install a 1250 or 1275 kit. It can be installed without doing all that. Likewise it can be installed on a Sportster with the engine still in the frame and that's the way it's normally done. These kits can be installed in an afternoon. But by doing it on a half-Buell like this, it makes it easier to see the process, without all that other stuff in the way.
Hi hammer and team, i just have one doubt regarding upgrading engine on a sportster , you have several choices which i noticed in your list such as the 120+hp kit, a big bore kit like 91+ci and a buell big bore kit, i have a confusion of what to chose for a 1200custom sportster which is around 2018 model , if i want the highest in terms of both hp and torque in my engine and wanted to get the best engine that i can buy, then which one should i chose ? and what are the actual difference between these 3 different kits?
An engine "kit" consists of pistons, cylinders, rings, pins, clips, and head & base gaskets. We offer three different sizes of kits: 1250cc, 1275cc, and 90ci. The 1250 and 1275 are bolt-on kits, meaning they can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. The 90ci requires a full tear-down so that the case can be bored to accept the large bore cylinders. An engine "kit" cannot be installed by itself. It always needs some other things to go with it. Exactly what it needs depends heavily on the year of the bike and whether it's a native 883 or 1200. And it also depends on what the ultimate power goal is. When a kit is bundled with all of the other pieces needed to achieve a goal, we call that a "package". So for example, the 120hp package includes a 1275 kit and a whole ton of other parts and services needed to achieve 120hp. Things like porting of the heads, big cams, roller rocker arms, the tuner you need, and so on. To see what all comes in the 120hp package, follow this link: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#120hp . After the description of the package, you'll find a table of links to the sample quotes. Click on the one for you year bike. That's a complete list of all the parts and services included, showing the price of each, and the total is on the last page. Another page you should read, since you have a late model 1200, is this one: www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#04+ . That's our guide for getting more power out of a late 1200 like yours. It starts out describing the importance of your stage 1 selections (exhaust, air cleaner, tuner) and then shows what can be accomplished with a cam swap, a 1275 kit, a cam swap and 1275 kit in combination, and finally head work, cams, and a 1275 kit in combination. Lots of dyno sheets showing actual results in each case. That last section points you to the 110hp and 120hp packages.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thank you so much for this information, you guys are truly scientists! But my one final doubt is : why do you heavily rely on a patriot brand exhaust system, i mean there are so many 2 into 1 exhausts systems on the market even a few brands whom consider themselves as a gold standard? and secondly there are certain other tuners which has universal compatibility and you chose the dynojet ? is there any specific reasons, in many videos on the comments section i have noticed you either disregard or not recommend those fuel tuners, why is that?
@@Cool_Rider25 We've done a lot of testing of exhaust systems, you can read all about that testing here: www.hammerperf.com/ttxlexhaust.shtml . One thing you learn from doing all this testing, the dyno simply does not care what the manufacturer claims, or what someone considers to be a gold standard, nor does it care how much the exhaust costs. It's been a real eye-opener testing all those exhausts (and more) and seeing just how poorly some big name exhausts perform. As it turns out, most exhausts are made for looks and sound. Performance is pretty much an afterthought, at least for most exhausts. When the Power Vision came out more than a decade ago, it really turned the tuning world on it's ear. Prior to the PV, all flash tuners were controlled by a laptop computer. You used the laptop to load up tunes, to log data, and to build your tune corrections. Since the PV has a touch screen, it completely eliminated all that hassle. In particular, it massively simplified the tuning process. With the PV1 & PV2, you can actually watch the map populate on the display as you're riding the bike. Applying the logs to correct the VE tables got simplified down to a few taps of the screen. On top of that, it brought a whole ton of functionality to the rider, everything from configurable gauges to monitor practically anything going on in the motor, to trip computers, to on-the-fly adjustments, to reading and clearing codes, the list goes on and on. It was a revolutionary device in the world of tuning HD's. We've used all the major tuners, and nothing else even comes close in terms of capability and ease of use, both of which are big big deals when you ship and support as many engine kits as we do. Since we can't develop tunes for and support every tuner out there, and we can't get into the business of teaching the tuning process for every tuner out there, we chose it as our tuner of choice, i.e. the one we would develop tunes for and distribute those tunes with our kits. Even today, the only other tuner that's attempting to simplify tuning like this is the FP3, which uses your smart phone as it's display, but it has some huge drawbacks as compared to the PV. A big one is the lack of integration with the tools found in a dyno tuning environment. There's no way to use common dyno tools to build and aply corrections. V&H finally came out with such a tool a few years back, but few shops have invested in that tool when they already have wide band tuning tools that work with every other tuner. And also, we've found the built-in narrow band auto tune to be less effective than the PV's. And there's no consumer-level wide band tuning kit available for it, the way Dynojet offers. The PV1/PV2 actually offer closed-loop wide band operation via an add-on kit. It remains light years ahead of the competition, even after all these years. Dynojet has also come out with a phone based flash tuner, the PV4, but it's still in it's infancy, and auto tune is not yet supported. Once auto tune is supported, we'll consider supporting the PV4. But for now, we support the PV1, PV2, and PV3 only.
I have a 2000 883 Hugger with a 1250 kit on it, I'm guessing it's an S&S. I'm planning on doing the engine next winter to the 120+hp kit...is this what I'll be getting? I'm not sure if the original owner kept the stock 883 heads or swapped them
You can read all about the 120+hp package here: www.hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml#120hp . You can download the sample quote at that link to see everything included and what it costs. We won't be able to re-use your current 1250 kit, instead the 120+ package comes with a new 1275 kit with 30 degree pistons. We can do the 120+ package on either unmolested 883 heads or on late model (2004+) XL1200 heads. But if the heads have already been modified, for example if the chambers were hogged out to use them with a flat top 1250 kit, then you'll need replacement head castings. We have good used castings available.
Would it make more sense for me to do the cams first, and then the pistons/jugs/heads, or put the pistons/jugs/heads on and then do cams and push rods and all that jazz? I don't know why, I am just having a hard time picturing the sequence in which to build it.
Well, if you're doing an engine kit and cams, the only requirement to factor into the sequence is that the rocker boxes need to be removed before you go into the cam box. So as long as you do the cam swap while the rocker boxes are removed, you're golden. Most guys remove the top end, then change the cams and get the cam box all buttoned back up, and then put the new top end on.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I quoted the whole 9 yards on the 120+hp kit so I will be doing everything from cams to heads. I am in the process of collecting funds now and I was just trying to make sense of it all in my head. When I get close to having the right amount would I require a new quote since a bit of time will have passed? Thank you very much for the quick response! The ease of contacting and working with your customers along with the quality products and work is the reason I chose you guys! I asked a question about cylinder heads on another video about an hour ago. I was curious if the price I was quoted on the Sledge head porting was for my heads to be sent to you guys or if that was for a set of heads already set up? If its my own heads how long is the turn around time?
@@jonnymac8925 Usually our costs go up in January of every year, but sometimes suppliers raise prices out of season, so you should probably run it by us.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Thanks again for getting back to me again! I appreciate the help, I can't wait to sit in the garage after the Summer and building myself a weapon!
Yes, absolutely! The 1250 or 1275 kit can be installed in an afternoon without even pulling the engine out of the frame. This video was done on a Buell with the frame removed only to be able to show the process better.
I have a 19 1200 forty eight warranty just about done. In your opinion if I could only do one, should I do a cam and oil pump gear upgrade with tuner and wideband O2 or 1275 kit with tuner and wide band... Last mod for the year. already have Cobra RPT and SS intake
@@ToDaMn It depends on your goals, i.e. whether you're looking for more top end power, or a smaller gain over a wide rpm range. Follow these two links, look at the charts, and decide for yourself: www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#camsalone www.hammerperf.com/tthoppingup1200.shtml#1275kitalone That page is our guide for getting more power out of your bike and I highly encourage you to give it a read
The tuner we recommend, offer, and support directly with a tune is the Dynojet Powervision. It blows away everything else on the market, both in terms of capability and ease of use, in our opinion.
I'm looking at getting the 100hp 1275 kit for my 1993 Sportster... One thing I was wondering about was the strength of the standard 5-Speed gearbox, worth upgrading or will it handle the power? Assuming you're not smashing gears and dropping the clutch, but more like full throttle 3rd-4th gear pulls.
The transmissions are remarkably stout, particularly on the 91-03 models. Lots of guys put very high power to them and very sticky tires and spend weekends drag racing them. There are some gears available in the aftermarket (Andrews), but they're really not any stronger than the stock pieces, mostly they're about changing ratios. Really the only issue that street riders ever have with the transmission is worn dogs, which is a wear item, not breakage. When you start getting momentary hop-out during acceleration, it's time to replace a couple gears due to worn dogs. Fortunately, on XL's through 2003, that's a pretty minor job, the trans slides out the left side. Guys who have issues with the dogs in their 04+ bikes have to do a full tear down and split the cases.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE Thanks for that reply, two more questions, will the XL 560 cam kit likely need clearancing? Also, is it possible to take the barrels and heads off with the motor still in the frame? Appreciate you're time!!!
@@TheSkinon The 560's may require cam box clearancing. Since the cases are a casting, they're not that consistent, and we can't say for sure. It's about 50% of that vintage that need it. 00-03's typically need a little clearancing of the lobes as described in our cam install instructions, and 04+ motors almost never need any clearancing of any kind. Yes, absolutely, the top end comes off without removing the motor. Removing the motor to install a 1275 kit would massively increase the work involved. The 1275 can be installed in an afternoon without pulling the engine out of the frame.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE legends, thanks again for the info! Watched the videos and the clearancing seems pretty straight forward, as well as head install. Will be in touch!
@@danchandler3225 OK, a 1997 XL1200 would use a small fin kit with flat top pistons, available here: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275ordering In addition, colder spark plugs and new carb jets are required, and a new ignition, the top end gasket set upgrade, and ring gapping/preassembly service are recommended. All of these things are available here: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275options
You can see the pricing here: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275ordering . However, other things are required and recommended for a successful 1275 conversion beyond just the kit itself. Exactly what all you need varies based on the year and model of your Sportster. You can find a concise list of requirements and the pieces needed here: www.hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml#1275options
