These videos are great and packed with great info. I do have water intrusion from time to time in my crawl space and am considering an interior management system. My first question is how would you cross the concrete footer that ties into the piers with the perimeter drain pipe and do you service middle Tennessee ( coffee county)?
Noticed you didn't use primer before you glued your fittings together. While the joints will hold, down the road they will eventually fail without primer.
Someone mentioned the glue and primer in one. Even though I've never seen it anything that has to pass an inspection has to have colored primer or it won't pass. Clear primer may be fine doing pool work around the house but a plumbing inspector will fail it in a heartbeat if he can't positively determine primer was used. Yes, primer is essential.
@channelx92 it's essential because the glue doesn't work neer as good without the primer. The primer prepares the pvc to dissolve into the pvc on the fitting. They somewhat weld into each other. That's why it's called a solvent instead of glue
How do you prevent the popup from freezing in the end two feet or so. Don't you have to install a short section of knife cut and/or put some holes in the last elbow to let the water left in the popup percolate out?
You can thaw frozen sump pump lines with portable heaters. You should not use a blow torch to thaw the line. There is too much risk of hurting yourself or your house. If the line is frozen and you don't want the pump to burn out, disconnect the sump pump until you can thaw the line out or hire a waterproofing contractor. A professional can thaw the line, check for leaks, and inspect the sump pump for damage.
We install the check valve closer to the pump inside the basin. Unfortunately, that step was missed in this video but we show how to do it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JDwt7gDIaxA.html.
We've started installing this way to give support to the pipe and prevent it from breaking when the sump pump is propelled upward when it turns on. The sump pump is very powerful and has a lot of force when it turns on.
My sump pump is discharging every hour. Water is getting in but not from the weeping tile (just some small seepage below it). Suggestions? Pump too low in pit?
I think even if you raise the pump it will still go off every hour. Once the water reaches that level unless your pump is installed at the constant water table now then raising it above the constant water table could help.
Why are the replies not showing up?!! Will this system hold up under frigid temperatures? I too would like to go through my rim joist as another poster talked about. Why did you do a giant U-shape with the pipe instead of just going up and out?
Where is the best place to put the check valve? At the pump or further away? Some installers put a weep hole in the riser about 2 inches above the pump to prevent the pump from running dry.
In order to minimize the volume of water that drains back after each pumping cycle, a sump pump check valve needs to be located near the floor level. This is also an easy location to service or replace the check valve.
I used a pop up like that to drain a rain gutter into the lawn and it had a small orifice underneath that allows residual water to drain out so water won't pool up in it (so hopefully no water to freeze). Maybe theirs has that?
Yes, my main concern was with freezing as well. I need to discharge the dehumidifier outside but not sure how to do it while avoiding freeze. Any suggestions?
Says lift is 20 feet but your flow rate drops 75% at that height. Here's a link to the manual. Thanks for watching. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/flotec-sump-pump-model-e50vlt/
I have a sump pump that drains a half basement. The builder left the discharge hose above ground and it drains about ten feet from the house. I live in the Northeast and have never had trouble with the hose freezing and backing up. I want to burry the discharge line as described above but am concerned with it freezing. But I think it may not be a problem because if it is cold enough to freeze, any precipitation that would flood the basement would be frozen too, and wouldn’t raise the water table making the sump pump necessary. Does this make sense?
Why do you send the line so high above the sump pump only to come back down to the wall penetration level like that? Someone else already asked about that but there wasn't an answer, so I thought I'd try. Thanks!
Can I go through the rim joist instead? Drilling through the cement block is less appealing for me... but if there's a good reason not to, I'll listen!
We have on occasion gone thru the rim joist in instances when no other option available. Only reason I don't like is if the sealant used to to plug hole around discharge fails, can create water entry to wood not pressure treated and eventually mold and rot.
In your foundation walls, weep holes let water drain. Foundation walls usually have them drilled into their bases to let moisture escape. Water will drip down the back of the wall and pass through the weep holes whenever it enters the foundation.
Why couldn't you have just 90'd the line from the well straight into the PVC going through the block wall. Seems like a massive amount of pressure will be needed to move the water up that 1-2" PVC line. Also what is that line for anyways going out to the Green cap access...?
Hey everyone, my pump discharges over the side walk (first time home owner and paid some people to do it) but now I know its illegal and a safety hazard. Any creative ideas to stop the water without redoing the whole system?
@@CrawlSpaceNinja yeah Ive thought of that but my house is on a very slight slope of land downward headed towards the sidewalk but the other direction is to go in my backyard which isnt that big and would flood as a result. I was thinking maybe cut the existing route/pvc shorter so the water has more time to drain into the grass before it hits the side walk
6:16 It seems that the flow rate needs to move dehumidifier water out of the crawl space would be much smaller than 1.5" PVC pipe with a 1/2HP pump. That 1/2HP pump would be running super short cycles constantly while keeping at least 0.5 gallons of water always standing above the check valve (looks like over 5 ft of 1.5" pipe). Wouldn't it make sense to have two different pipes leaving the crawl space for two very different engineering purposes? The basing with 1/2 HP pump and 1.5" pipe looks like it's setup for if there's a serious flood needing to move a lot of water fast. The thin, clear flex tube leaving the dehumidifier is meant to constantly be moving a small a mount of water. Can you help clarify this for me? I'm looking into this at the moment.
We use a .5" pvc pipe for the condensate pump discharge and a 1.5" pvc pipe for the sump pump discharge. If a crawl space we are doing is also getting a water management system installed (sump pump and perimeter drainage) we will run the dehumidifier condensation lines to the sump pump so that we are not creating additional exit points in the foundation wall. If the crawl space is not getting a water management system, the line from the condensate pump itself is ran outside underground to a 1'x1'x1' dry well. Hope this clarifies things for you!
There is a sock installed around the corrugated pipe that runs the perimeter of the crawl space to help keep out debris. If dirt does get into the pit, we clean it out when we do our routine maintenance. Check out our sump pump maintenance video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1q0PM83HkoQ.html
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Why not install "fabric " around aggregate and the pit to avoid getting mud in pit and possible pump premature failure. It would also save significant time during subpump maintance. Absolutely love the education your providing, helping public make informed decisions about their crawl spaces and attics. God Blessings from NC...
@@lukehot9690 You could definitely do that, it would definitely help. We just find that since the majority of the water is coming from the perimeter drains straight into the pump, the pea gravel is normally enough. Thanks so much for your support!
The water could keep seeping back into your sump if it's too close, causing your sump pump to run continuously. When that water freezes, your pump will be even more strained. Water should be discharged at least 10 feet away from your home's foundation, according to experts.
Is it possible to use smaller piping or hose? I want to install a sump in my living room and have the hose run under the skirting boards so there's not a lot of room.
