How To Install a Window with a Nailing Flange 

Who would have thought you would have been handy with electronics and cars?

+Dean Nezerka I have seen techniques where instead of the corner guards, you just use the same peel and stick membrane- trim an 8 inch piece, and stick it at the bottom corners, folding half its width onto the sill, and the other half it's width onto the edge. You also have to overlap it 4 inches from the sill so that the other 4 inches stick out off of the exterior wall face. THEN you trim the membrane overlapping the wall face at a diagonal so that you can tightly fold it ONTO the wall face.

Dean Nezerka the

Dean Nezerka

Dean Nezerka ll,,LKK,l Ll.

Dean Nezerka ججهخحححجج

and you do a great presentation explaining why and how to those learning.

granitestatemike i

granitestatemike. 7-"1

+Rob Weaver Good luck

+Lawrence Fishburnt Thanks and good luck. if you have questions at times please use my forum.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

I prefer shingle nails with a nailing flange because the heads to not inter fear with the siding or finish as much as a truss head does.

Wow, thanks!

Yessir

You're the original Master Chief (117), and you've got a cross symbol?! Who are you?! A new friend?

If you don't level your window it can be inoperable. When the sill is out of level that bad you should adjust with shims (if space allows) or call a pro to do some minimally invasive framing work.

Or have level soffit...if doing it yourself.

You are correct. I did use a level and after going outside to look the window is off even though it's level.

I agree with everything you said except for the roofing nails. I've pulled out plenty of windows that were a giant pain in the ass to pull out that used 1½" roofing nails. Also, if the depth/ throat of the window is not as thick as the wall it's better to make sure your reveal on the inside is even rather than making sure it's level

My company installed for three Lowes stores for 27 years. It sucks when something like a soffit made a level window look crooked. We always choose to level and plumb our installs, usually with a laser on tripod. Seems like overkill but if there was ever an issue the manufacturer reps would throw us under the bus if it was a fraction out of level. Most of our installs were impact single hung that didn’t allow any grace to work correctly. Choose your battles.

Thank you very much for the donation!

Seems that my shed window will take longer than normal to be delivered due to Covid. I wonder if its ok to install my soffits and fascia before installing the siding. Then I would butt the siding up to the fascia using a finish trim. This will allow me to get some work done while waiting for my window. My original plan was to install the siding first then install the fascia J trim over top. Any suggestions or recommendations.

Thanks for the great feed back

Go for it!

Awesome thank you sir

please come to our forum and we can help you with questionswww.house-improvements.com/forums/

@@HouseImprovements i just joined last night!

Thanks for your comments. I'm sorry I do not have any fireplace related videos at this time.

Thanks for the sub!

With a window with a nailing flange the tape on sides and top are done after the install.

HouseImprovements okay that sounds good I think you're still pans probably better than anybody else I've seen them great video

Dupont makes a peel and stick tape that uses butyl instead of asphalt based adhesive. Always check for comparability. One complaint above was silicone cracking. With asphalt based peel and stick the silicone never sets up correctly. It's on the label. Also eliminates need for primer.

You absolutely could before you add the sill membrane.

+THomas Gaffney great!

I had to rewatched the video, and I did explain the wrap at the head incorrectly. I agree that the house wrap at the head position should overlap the membrane and be taped to it. thanks for pointing that out. We have added a "popup" note on the video at that point.

@@HouseImprovements (FYI...didn't see that popup note come up in the video at that point ....in 2019) Was a bit confused as your other non-flange window video showed the sticky membrane behind and then the house wrap over top of that - then tuck taped. Thanks for clarifying this!

Appreciate that

@@HouseImprovements I've watched you for years and you've helped me on countless DIY projects. Whether it was working on a heater system, soldering, and now door installation you've got the touch, man! Thank you very much!

Use a z bar flashing above the window

Please use my forum for questions. www.house-improvements.com/forums/

Thanks for the quick response in the forum Shannon. Great forum for everyone that has some diy skills

Can you post the link to the forum with this question please? I can't seem to find it on the website. Thanks

no drip cap needed if window under the roof overhang, use drip cap if two-story house, or no or little roof overhang

Check out some of my other videos, you will find at least two that deal with the inside view and insulating.

+Remmik so you would put a shim right between the frame and opening where your screws/nails are: This way, the window can't move left and right, enabling the screws to not take racking forces? If this is the case, do the shims have to be where the screws are, or is one or two on the corners of each side ok?

+Adam Lans; Hey Adam, I'm not sure how my comment above was posted under this video. It was meant for a video of single hung window going into a block opening and code questions. I'm sure it was my fault with so many tabs open.. For a fin window, like the one in this video, you would not need to shim on the interior between window frame and opening like I described above. Those technics are for a block opening on a window that operates (Flange window frame). In this scenario is where the install screws go though the side jams and header of the window frame (standing from interior). This is where it's crucial to have the proper spacing between window frame and opening and to have proper support behind every screw that is used to secure the window. This is more to keep the window tight against a solid structure and not have the possibility to pull the frame out to the sides when driving those screws in. BTW Just to restates how we refer to windows types. A flange window has a small lip (flange) that is used to only butt up against bucking in a block opening. This is where a solid bead of sealant is applied but no screws. The window is typically recessed into the opening and you would do a stucco return to it or trim. Install crews are on the inside jams and header of the frame. A Fin window has a taller lip (Fin) that butts up against the wood sheeting of a wood framed wall, with sealant behind as well. Install screws are driving through the fin into the wall to secure window. Considered a flush mount window. Stucco or siding is brought right to the window or banded wit trim. Install screws are never right at the corners so there would be no need to shim there. This is just to keep the frame straight when tightening those screws. Otherwise the frame will be warped at each screw or the whole side jam of the frame will "pickle barrel" out. This will make the middle of the window wider then the top and bottom width measurements and make the operation of the sash up and down difficult. I have even seen sashes fall out because of this. In single and double hung windows, the jams have a channel that the balances travel in and the sashes are attached to those balances. If you have windows that operate with difficulty then it's always going to be an issue with this channel in the jams or the balances with their corresponding shoes that assist the sash to go up and down.

6" from top and bottom. That puts shims just above bottom screws and below tops. Also just above center screw (double hung). The center screw should be left a little loose, then shimmed tight to create a uniform reveal between bottom sash and side leg. For larger windows shim at each screw to prevent warping/racking. Never shim at head(top). That makes the window a structural part of the wall. Not good.

Dont screw windows in, roofing nails only

@@Chris-iy4vrthere is nothing wrong with using screws vs nails. modified truss screw are best and are even spelled out as approved fasteners in window manufacturer’s install instructions. I have been using screws vs nails since 1998 in Florida, with the strictest requirements and needs and now in Washington state with some of the lax requirements.