@@31acruz it's a kinetic energy switch manufactured by Leviton called LevNET and has since been discontinued... Also clicking the switch generates the power to send the signal to the relay
@@hulkhuggett Home Depot no longer carries these types of switches either . Makes you wonder how reliable they are. Amazon has 1 for $25 that has a high rating. "Wsdcam Wireless Light Switch and Receiver Kit,"
@@wadeinn463 these communicate directly so it won't matter if the company goes out of business... well you won't be update any firmware to patch security issues, etc but these are not cloud based. They don't require a company's servers running somewhere to keep this working.
I have an old house with the same type of cloth covered wire. The last fixture I installed I made jumpers connected to the old house wiring/ tucked it up and voila, new wiring to attach the fixture to. That's a neat wireless light assembly.
That's pretty cool! It's like the wireless module that lets me control my ceiling fan from a remote. I didn't realize they made them for lights too, but it makes sense.
I like how she "conveniently" had a new light fixture with a deep canopy to easily accommodate the remote module. Try stuffing that thing in the electrical box, or a fixture with a much more shallow canopy. Nice option though.
Had one of these remotes installed in a light fixture switch box that controlled a light in our kitchen and the remote switch about 12 ft away on another wall at the entrance to the kitchen. It worked well except that at random times the light would come on and go off without any switch being used. We lived in a condo building and figured out that someone else may have had a similar remote wireless switch installed which was causing the random on and off. We ended up chucking the thing away.
THANK YOU for this. I saw it a couple years ago on TV and got two of these - both pull-string light bulbs are GONE forever! The gizmo cost a bit more than $100 each - but it was well worth it!
We have ceiling fans in all bedrooms at my house that the previous owner paid to have wired but didn't install any switches! All operated by remotes. I want to switch to nice lights and was going to run wires (attic above) but this is SO EASY! I am very excited about this discovery.
This is a great solution - thanks for sharing. I wish there was a similar solution, but with a dimmer switch and I could connect to 4 lights all in different locations.
For those wondering how this works this is what I would have to guess. Inside of the switch is a special crystal(L1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZlVI7YJGHq0.html)(lapiz I think, can't remember) that is similar to what's in a lighter, when it gets "flexed" quickly it produces power, it is then probably ran through a resister to limit it (or) straight into a spark gap data transmitter (L2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SnKKj2bonAI.html) which then transmits it. Extra info 1: Because of the type transmitter that is probably used there is no encryption hence why one of you had interference with a neighbor, So you can probably only have one. Extra info 2: The reason the switch is a momentary instead of a toggle like most household light switches is because of the crystal used. This is an educated guess using what I know, if you agree, disagree, or want to add more to this discussion comment and like so others will see how it works.
Her smile and the new, wirelessly switched, LED fixture lit up the room. Great job Scott. I was amazed that the switch was battery free. Curious: How much phantom power does the module consume? I’m assuming not much to be concerning.
This is a very helpful video and is definitely a solution for the exact same problem I have for a closet light. Does anyone know where he got this light kit from?
It used to be that no self respecting electrician would go this route because many remote modules were absolute junk that would break down and be a nightmare to troubleshoot later due to the hidden parts in light fixtures, but in the last several years, the products are much better. I'm not a big fan of the Leviton that Scott is using and prefer Lutron's various RF lines myself since you can also tie them on to other home automation systems.
I will add, here, that these RF remote things are VERY susceptible to interference ESPECIALLY from WiFi and other RF devices in the home and the neighbors; not to mention, electrical spikes from lightening strikes and large appliances on the electrical system..
Scott said there was no battery in the wireless switch but did not explain how the switch assembly is powered. It needs to send an RF signal to the receiver (with antenna). Pressing the switch produces a small amount of electricity but how ? The range is claimed to be 100 feet according to the ads. The system costs around $100.
Nope, no battery - Just looked it up and I found a bunch like this tinyurl.com/hfer4bv and a few for less - the $100 estimate is probably $60 for the switch, plus $40/hr for your electrician.
My company has used these a few times. This guy seemed to leave out the need to link the relay to the switch, and you can install it directly to the wall so that it looks like a real switch and not some handyman installation. He left out the fact that you are not allowed to extend an ungrounded circuit, new installations must use modern methods, so running a switch leg would not be allowed unless you provided grounded power to the fixture. Of course that may just be in our jurisdictions.
Comment to your This guy seemed to leave out the need to link the relay to the switch," You are right in that the relay to the switch MUST be synced to use exactly the same signal. But if you buy the exact one he uses in this video ... I read on amazon website that they ARE SYNCHED up at factory so they will communicate to each other. I read for a couple of other same kind of wireless switches that they do the same thing at the factory so they can communicate with each other. So no need to worry about them being able to communicate with each other. I bought this exact wireless product, then installed it ad it worked perfectly plus I made the wall socket look like all the other wall on/off switches and thus it looks professional (same height plus on goes up and off goes downward.)
The insulation looked to be in great condition,. I would feel very confident in continuing to use it. Unfortunately often this is exactly where the insulation gets cooked in a house with knob and tube wiring. It is a result of overlamping the fixture with 100 and 150 watt incandescent light bulbs over many years. In that case, the insulation becomes quite brittle and falls away readily when manipulated.
Back in 93 I saw a light "switch" that would hide inside the fixture and react to a car alarm remote. Not practical if you are in a house, but they lived on fifth floor.. so they didn't unlock their car every time they turn the light on. and that was 25 years ago
Im not an electrician but I noticed that the wires coming from the ceiling are aluminum which requires an anti oxidant paste to prevent corrosion and overheating when copper wires are attached.
Is there a device that replaces the switch on the wall and allows you to have a remote at your desk or at your bed to turn that switch on? I have an office with six canned lights, so this would not work. Unless maybe this device would screw into the first can light of the run??
I have external lights on a detached garage that I want to be able to turn on from inside our home. Can I use this product to do that or does it only work on individual fixtures?
Will this work for my basement? I have three lights all controlled by one light switch. We made a new room downstairs with two of the three lights being in the room.. and we only have a single switch that’s outside of the bedroom.. we would like to get a switch for the two lights in the room And it not affect the other single basement light..
Please give me the link to be able to buy the ceiling light in this utube video? I cannot find a ceiling light with space at top where I can put this wireless switch inside. Thanks Bob
Hi I have a building about 125 from my house that has regular flood lights on it and a switch to turn them on in the building . My question is there some way I can turn them on from inside the house maybe with a remote rf control. I just don't know what to to tie into the switch to do that. Thanks
Hello. Can i get those installed for different lights in a house? Will the kits not interfere? Worried about a situation where when i press one switch all lights get on😂...thanks
it seems like if you have a regular light bulb base and just one bulb that they would just make the same thing but just one that you can screw in the socket for simpletons... but for me i will do the wire in because i always like a good electrical project :)
It's a great idea and very practical... unless you're replacing one switch in a three-gang switch box. I haven't been able to find a three-gang (or any multi-gang) wall plate with one of the switches blank. Anyone know of a solution?
I've read through some reviews of these wireless kits on amazon and a few people have managed to squeeze a wireless switch into multi-gang switch boxes with a few regular switches.The front plate and back plate of the wireless switch comes off, but it's still a bit of a tight squeeze, they said. I don't think you could fit multiple switches in. The reviews I saw were buried someone in here, if you are curious. .. www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/product-reviews/B005B0AY0K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_hist_5?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent&filterByStar=five_star&pageNumber=1#R3CYAR25XHW2KU
Yeah, the range is actually really good on these things, even through walls. The only thing to stop it would be several layers of metal. www.amazon.com/dp/B012H6QZVC
I have a double gang box in my bathroom. One side has a new gfci I installed and the other side is a switch that controls the bathroom light and fan. I want to separate the fan and put it on a different switch. There is only one romex 14/2 with ground going to the switch so the fan is wired direct to the light. I do not want to tear up my ceiling to run a new wire. Will this work for this application?
@@danielkofman4592 he would need to run a separate wire to the fan or light. It's a romex 14-2, meaning the switch leg is daisy chained. If there was 14-3 then the fan and light could be separated from the switch box easily.
That device doesn't look like it would be so easy to "bury" in a "normal" light fixture with the little 1/2" deep fixture canopy. Not only that, the fixture strap that was attached to the pipe to hang the fixture and provide the ground source was very loose so the "ground" connection would create lots of arc/resistance heat if a ground situation was ever experienced there. The information provided is good but more detail should be provided about the importance of "good connections" and how it's quite common for "no ground" to be available at lights in old wiring.
Please use electrical tape for additional wire support when using braided wire spliced to solid core! The extra 30 seconds is worth the safety/security.
wavesOfFury I've seen plenty of master electricians, plumbers, and hvac guys do shoddy work. Just because you have a master license doesn't mean you do quality work. Just look how many doctors got their medical license and make horrible mistakes.
wavesOfFury - Most fixtures these days are made in Asia use a lot of really cheap aluminum-based, multi strand wire. What provides the actual strength in traditional solid core copper wiring isn't the nut, it is the action of twisting the wires together so they cannot be pulled apart. The cheap multi strand wire is very flexible and cannot be twisted together because it wants to unravel, so the only support is coming at the nut... but because its multi strand aluminim wire (compresses, breaks, splays, etc), the connection isn't very secure. Using electrical tape offers support to keep the wires together (aka - 'strain relief', very common in electronic work). It's especially good practice in places of vibration, such as a ceiling fan or outdoor light fixture subjected to wind. There are really bad tradesman...just look at the horror stories of bad contractors and homeowners getting ripped off. There are a couple things I have seen him do on this show that I wouldn't be proud to put my name on.
Anyone know what this product name is and if it’s still available? Whenever I do a search all I get back is a bunch of smart switch garbage that just turns an existing switch into a smart switch. Can’t find this product that turns a pull light into a wall switch light.
Here's a link to this product on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Simple-Wireless-Switch-Kit-Self-Powered/dp/B012H6QZVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1516309459&sr=8-2&keywords=runlesswire You could install the same kit behind an outlet to control power to that outlet instead. They have other versions of this kit too, like with two switches. www.amazon.com/RunLessWire/b/ref=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_12227254011?ie=UTF8&node=12227254011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=RunLessWire These kits are manufactured by ILLUMRA, which sells these products industrially to contractors. There are much cheaper versions for homeowners but they are mostly chinese knock-offs, which will work, but are not as reliable. Also, most other versions don't have a standard decora-style switch.
@@illestofdemall13 I currently have the light switch at the top of the stairs outside of the bedroom. Id like to put a switch inside the bedroom as well.
Honestly although he should not have claimed that she will likely have moved by the time that bulb needs to be replaced probably the fixture would be replaced before the bulb dies
That is super cool. I was just thinking, what if I have a light switch already, but I want to add another to the other side of the room? Could it work?
So I think with the kit used in the video it wouldn't work. The manufacturers offer a three-way kit though, which has two wireless switches and one controller. You would pull out the current light switch and wire a controller in that switch box, then install a wireless switch in front of it, and put the other switch wherever you want. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JJVN0FM/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_3_w
hello, I produce the same function touch switch, my price is :USD20 , one switch and one wireless function part. my touch switch need put battery inside , my wireless function part need to load at the two sides of the lightings , the same to this video. anyone feel interesting or want to buy ? please contact me.
I need some automation in my basement hallway stairs( one 3 way for entering from upstairs unit to basement, one 4 way for basement separate entry door and second 3 way at the basement level) how do i add a motion sensor so when the tenants enter through the basement separate entry door the light turns on automatically. However I want to retain the manual functionality of the two 3 way switches. Kindly let me know.