Great video. I got my floors done a few years ago and they used polyaspartic for a base coat. Floor was done in 6-7 hours. Has held up so well. Just need to mop the floors to get them new again
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your floor, they definitely make the garage feel like an extension of the home. Polyaspartic floors are good floors too. Every contractor has their preference on what they use and why they use them.
@@2mustange I watched another video of this fairly popular youtuber, and it was a few weeks after he finished the project.. it was still soft lol. Guess he didn't mix it correctly.
Best instructional videos on here for this application. After watching I’m inspired to DIY. Do you have any videos that show specifically how to address control joints? I want to honor the joint and leave it there but do I have to clean it out or grind into the crack ? Or do I just surface grind the floor and that’s good enough ? Most of the control joints don’t reach all the way to the wall,leaving about 2” of uncut concrete that tends to hairline crack. How do you suggest handling that ? If you are spreading the epoxy or top coat how do you stop it from filling the joint in ? Should I brush a little epoxy down on the inside of each edge of the control joint? Do you just toss flakes over the whole floor then scrape them out of the joint after drying? So many questions lol
All good questions! Unfortunately the garage in this video didn't have control joints so we couldn't address them. I'd like to do a video in the future to discuss the joints more in depth. Do you have joints that were saw cut in the floor or were they troweled (shaped in a "v")?
@@cjgropper Saw cuts are a lot easier to address. When the concrete is installed the cuts will always be shy of the wall about 2-3 inches because the saw is too big to get any closer to the wall. It's okay to leave the joints this way or you can cut them closer to the wall using an angle grinder with a concrete cut wheel. To prep the joints you can run the angle grinder with the cut wheel down the joints to clean them out. If the joints aren't too dirty you can also simple clean them out using a screwdriver or 5in1 tool and follow up by vacuuming them out really well. When applying the basecoat use a chip brush to coat inside the joint a bit and remove any excess. Just throw the flake normally. After the basecoat is cured and you begin removing the excess flake, run a screwdriver down the joints to break off any loose flake and open the joints back up. Treat the topcoat the same way as the basecoat. Use a chip brush to coat inside the joints and remove any excess coating. Another great thing about the joints is they can be used to make the installation a bit easier as well. Use the joints as stopping points and coat each section separately so you can coat the floor in smaller sections rather than having to install the whole floor at once.
Well, I'm studying these Garage floor videos, all of your 1,2,3 , car garages are OK, but I'm planning a much larger garage, my garage floor will be expensive, that's why I'm playing the lottery ,
Do you know how many square feet the garage is? Does the garage have control joints? If the garage has control joints you can break it up into smaller sections so it will be easier to install the coating.
I have a question for you. In your own words, why do you not use a prime coat under the base coat? I have been working on this slab and well every time I throw it down at 130 Sqft per gallon (grey 100% solids) and throw the flake to rejection I notice any small little spots that I did not throw the flake correctly show concrete like the grey is completely gone. All I see is a clear thin layer of epoxy. You do not see this anywhere else where I flaked to rejection because obviously it is covered completely. Any ideas? Porous slab or what?
It that case it could be a more porous slab. It could also be the coating was applied a bit thinner in those areas. When weve applied the coating over a more porous concrete in the past we've thickened the epoxy with a fumed silica called cabosil to keep it from soaking in excessively. You may also need to double broadcast the floor, meaning you have to install a clean coat over the already flaked floor and flake into the clear coat again to make sure the color is completely even across the floor.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thanks for the reply. Prior to doing a job how do you know if your slab is porous? In most cases if you’re doing full coverage this wouldn’t matter you wouldn’t see the concrete, but I honestly think the flake soaks up some of the epoxy.
@@critik4799 the base coat does absorb in to the epoxy a bit. You might try to apply the base coat a bit thicker. If the coating is too thin it can cause the concrete to show through a bit as youre mentioning. Try using a notch squeegee to put the base coat down it will help to leave the coating more consistent. You can get an 8-12 mil squeegee here.. seymourmidwest.com/47750PI/
Beautiful job! I’m surprised they didn’t paint the garage walls first. That would drive me nuts to have a beautiful floor like that and unfinished walls.
I thought once you got the epoxy on the floor the pot life was short? You did the entire perimeter without moving it. How? lol you answered it later in the vid
Thanks for the comment. I assume you're referring to the top coat. The polyaspartic topcoat is very different than the epoxy basecoat. They pretty much are opposite of each other in terms of pot life. A lot of slower set polyaspartics have great pot life (around 45-60 minutes) but once they are out on the floor and thinned out they tack up very quickly.
Is there an adequate alternative to grinding the floor? I heard an acid wash can work. No idea how I would get the commercial grinder and vacuum home without a pickup truck at least. Also, I didn't see you scrape or sand the border walls. Was that done also?
As professionals we never acid etch a floor. That being said I've seen many people acid etch the concrete and the floor has help up well. Generally most residential garages don't receive an excessive amount of traffic so acid etching combined with a high quality coating will hold up fine. If you acid etch though you want to make sure the solution has been neutralized very well so non of the acid is left over. We have a separate video on coating the stem wall here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nKayBZMXFuM.html
Hi there! I need to apply a coating to my trailer floor. It is a enclosed cargo trailer that will be used for a pet grooming business. There is line x floor already on the trailer floor. I want to hire a professional but what do i ask for before i hear a lot of people won't do a trailer.
Make sure they use a flexible coating. They'll have to use a similar coating to the linex or the coating could fail because of the difference in surface tension. Potentially poyurea or a urethane deck coating
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you so much! Very helpful as I am just diving in to researching this. The Line X coating on my trailer floor although Very durable and waterproof- it is a huge hassle to clean and actually never looks clean. The rough texture allows anything to stick, Even with any kind of cloth, hard brush etc, it's just not wipe-able or really clean-able. Hence wanting a smooth surface that can be wiped and mopped with ease! I'd much rather have a slick surface and put mats down for my feet / traction then have a rough, tacky floor. Both of the products you mentioned will create a smooth / slick floor? Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. So appreciated!
@@kat4animals004 You can top coat it with a polyaspartic to help create a harder shell on the surface that will clean better. Polyaspartics also perform better as a top coat providing resistance to abrasion, chemicals, and scratching.
You generally need 16lbs per 100 square feet. So for 400 square feet you'd need 64lbs. The flake is sold in 40lb boxes though so you'd order a total of 80lbs of flake.
What preparation do you recommend for a brand new concrete garage floor? New construction and water cured for ten days and kept under 6mil poly the entire time to prevent oil and dirt from getting into the surface. Surface was power troweled to a smooth finish.
For all new concrete pours you must wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure out before applying a coating over the surface. Even with the concrete being new you will still have to prep the surface in order to open up the pores and allow the coating to soak in an adhere to the surface. We highly recommend you mechanically prepare the surface by diamond grinding if you can access the equipment to do so. You can also consider acid etching the concrete as well for a more DIY friendly option. Acid etching isn't the preferred method but I've seen the coating hold up well in a residential setting when a high quality coating is used.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you for the response. What high quality coating do you recommend? Looking to do an epoxy with heavy flakes for some slip resistance and an aspartic clear coat.
@@banjax80 We can sell you the same material I used in our video. If you email me at trent@columbusepoxyflooring.com with your garage dimensions and maybe a couple photos of the floor I'd be happy to send you a quote on the materials you'd need.
Hello, I believe you're referring to the stem walls. Ill upload another video soon showing how we coated those. We're planning to add more products as well to make the process even easier
Please reach out to me at trent@columbusepoxyflooring.com We're having to fix an issue with our site wo we have to take orders manually for the time being.
