How to install an extended drain system on an air compressor

Подписаться 53

Просмотров 30 тыс.

50% 1

How to install an extended drain system on an air compressor
I didn't point it to the ground because I don't like how it blasts all the dust and dirt around... I rather it blows forwards so anything it blows can be cleaned easily and not blown behind the compressor and other shop equipment... It's not that big of a deal either way though...
Also because of how I had to lay it down I measured and adjusted everything backwards to make it easier to work on then when I confirmed everything was going to work I turned the whole valve system 180 degrees so it would blow out the front... I wanted it to stick out far enough to make it easy to get to but tucked back far enough to no get in the way or for anything to snag on it such as air hoses or power cords... I'm pleased with the length and how the whole project came out...

Опубликовано:

12 июн 2017

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 30

@kaeo0120 2 года назад

Great video sir

@medicmike4906 5 лет назад

using the factory relieve valve, Great idea!

@jayhanig54 Год назад

I fail to see the point of it. If the valve is closed, it's not going to do anything. It won't be under pressure.

@lesterobando1161 6 лет назад

Nice great job.

@BlackKnight6667 6 лет назад

Not sure why you placed another relief valve on the end, should have just stayed with the ball valve. Now you will still have to deal with the small port on the relieve valve clogging with debris/rust and need replacement.I'd have only put the Ball valve and maybe a small extension hose to direct the high pressure water coming out away from my hand when i release the pressure.

@corker5735 3 года назад

Good vid. I have a brand new Kobalt 80 gallon and when I started the break in time of 30 minutes I forgot to open the valve and of course I built up pressure in the tank. I assume before I make any mods to the valve I should drain all the air out of the tank first, correct? And also do I need to drain all the air out of the tank when I do my daily check of condensation build up or just open the valve a few seconds? Thanks in advance.

@catfish24 Год назад

Why not put an Elbo on the end and turn it down that way when you open the valve the water want blow all over you and the walls

@tedohio3038 6 лет назад

How is the air compressor working, been about year.

@whocares0692 3 года назад

What was the name of the fitting that you put 1st under the compressor ?

@stevecamrie1360 5 лет назад

Hi are those brass fittings and pipe? Do you know if their rated at ? In terms of psi... I heard their only meant for water and only upto 60-80 psi

@MoparGuy1625 3 года назад

They’re not supply lines so it’s ok for a relief valve.

@boonecountygenerators3052 6 месяцев назад

Brass fittings are fine for this. Not necessary, and more expensive than black or galvanized pipe, but they will work fine and not rust.

@exportedafrican 7 лет назад

What's up with the nozzle at the end? I put another 90 degree elbow on the end to point it to the ground vs across the room

@garrisongarage1505 7 лет назад

I didn't point it to the ground because I don't like how it blasts all the dust and dirt around... I rather it blows forwards so anything it blows can be cleaned easily and not blown behind the compressor and other shop equipment... It's not that big of a deal either way though... Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment... It's like I always say... Let's all learn from each other...

@glasser2819 5 лет назад

My wife air tank had 2 gallons of condensate... so I am going to install an elbow towards the ground for her next drain session... in 5 years LOL. It's easier to empty water content once the pressure is relieved prior.

@teamjj153 5 лет назад

@@garrisongarage1505 I want to do the same to my compressor also, can you give me the specs that you used on yours please. Names and sizes of fittings. Thank you very much!!!!

@jayhanig54 Год назад

@@glasser2819 You don't drain the tank of air and then pour out the condensation. The condensation is already sitting at the bottom of the tank. Compressed air blows it out when you open the valve. I usually only allow mine to drain for a very few seconds beyond when the water stops spewing out. It's not good to leave a tank completely empty. It needs some compressed air (already drained of condensation) to keep any humid ambient air out of the tank.

@ernestkanu1247 4 года назад

Please what are the names and sizes of the components you used for a beginner diy enthusiast like me? Thank you.

@affliction1979 3 года назад

They make kits that you literally just screw in.

@barrybebenek8691 4 года назад

Was the straight pipe a 4” or 6” pipe? What was the length of it?

@boonecountygenerators3052 6 месяцев назад

Who cares? Make it any length you want. The optimum length will depend on the size of your tank.

@boonecountygenerators3052 6 месяцев назад

You didn't need to gall up the pipe nipple with vice grips. Could have just threaded the valve on, then use a wrench on the valve to tighten both fittings at once. Putting the original drain valve on the end seems pointless. One valve is enough.

@mystupidfacebook 6 лет назад

Great what size thread is that?

@axtra92 6 лет назад

Type your Name 🤦‍♂️

@cobaltpica 6 лет назад

looks like 3/8” NPT

@boonecountygenerators3052 6 месяцев назад

Most air tank drains are 1/4" NPT. Take your drain out, take it to the hardware store and buy fittings the same size. This stuff isn't rocket surgery.

@MrTacoMan247 Год назад

Do you have a parts list?

@boonecountygenerators3052 6 месяцев назад

The size for these fittings is generally 1/4" NPT (national pipe thread). To be sure, just remove your drain valve and take it to the hardware store with you. The first fitting was a street L or street elbow. It's an elbow with male threads on one end and female threads on the other. Then he used a pipe nipple about 5" long. Use whatever length is needed to get the valve out where you can reach it, but not so long that it's sticking out and subject to damage (the optimum length depends on the size of your tank). Finally he put a ball valve on the end. That's all you really need, but you might want another street L on the end to direct the air/water downward when you open the valve. He used brass fittings but black or galvanized steel pipe will work just fine for less money.