New subsciber here. And all i have to say is thank u for showing us how to install rivets and how they work. Keep up the great content and looking forward to more boat content. Much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤
Cheap=Smart. I educated myself aboutgunsmithing a hundred years ago when I was a baby. From the public library I looked at all the literature available. The most comprehensive book I could find , had hundreds of pages “ the first half” on making the tools and techniques required for guns smithing. I have applied same notion to all my other endeavours, from fishing, hunting, fabrication, back packing whatever.... my first trip is not to the store to purchase stuff. Half the stuff I have, my most valuable stuff ie;useful is made /fabricolbled. I like your video for promoting the same idea. I mean all the stuff you buy at the store was once made in someone’s shop. Thanks for sharing...I’m restoring a fishing boat, and wanted some ideas on riveting.
Have a 10 foot flat boat given to me. Bunch of rivets were loose. Bought a bag of 3/8th long, 3/16th diameter brazers. Made a air hammer rig like yours. The trick is to have the boat hull and seat base or crossbraces smack dab together. Any gap may widen from flex over time is my theory. Brazers will work if done right. I opted to use #10-24 half inch long stainless machine screws with a #10 stainless washer and stainless Ny-Lok nut on the interior side. Used a little bit of JB Weld Marine epoxy under the screw head. It draws the two pieces together tighter than a bull's ass. The screw protrudes a little inside but not enough to poke a hole in bare feet. It's a little unsightly but she floats. Not sure if there would be electrolysis between the aluminum and stainless but I think the JB epoxy will provide a barrier.
very good . i tried what you did but the rivet on the inside bent and didnt look like your finished product . maybe my rivets were too long . id love to see a boat factory video of how they are installed . I was told they are called “ blind rivets “
Hey man great video, we are trying to repair our aluminum flat bottom, and we are having a hard time figuring out what size closed in rivets to use? Like what diameter and what grip? This is somewhere we will be fishing around so it can’t stick out really far from the boat, don’t want it snagging on us, or I don’t want the kids falling and getting hurt, what would you recommend? ThanksJay
Jaleel David you want it to be 3/16-1/4" longer then the thickness of your material. The closed end rivets mushroom nicely and leave a nice rounded edge
I'm repairing my old alum. utility boat and measured the holes after removing some loose rivets. The holes are approx. .170" in diameter. Should I use 5/32" rivets or drill out larger to use 3/16"? I feel the .014" slop (if using 5/32) would be taken up by expansion from the rivet......no? Also, whats best way to cut the rivets? Cutting wheel, pliers, etc? I feel pliers would ruin/flare the end too much....
If only I had seen this a few weeks ago...hahaI used rivets that were way too long and had a hole in the center. I don't have an air hammer anyways. Good video, good info.
Zack Hughes you can do this with a ball pein hammer and dolly as well. The air gun is nice, a little quicker, but not required. A good friend with hearing protection might be required either way LOL
I have a sylvan 16.5 foot back troller and has a little corrosion and im replacing the transom and I had to pull the z bracket thats is buck riveted on because corrosion was behind it also
Im going to add a little more reinforcement To the back im going to use aluminum self taping screws to hold the splash plate on it has steel screws for who ever did it before
LoL ! put a regulator on that hammer gun ( you would make one out of a temp gauge probably ) And that bolt your using isn't heavy enough to buck them thar rivets. Sometimes you just gotta spend the $ to do the job right !
