Been watching your content for months and love it! Just purchased megan toe arms and traction rods as a package! Let me tell you, I haven't installed the toe arms yet but I just did the traction rods yesterday..BY FAR THE BEST UPGRADE TO MY SUSPENSION SO FAR!! They literally eliminated 85 percent of the body roll around corners at ALL speeds and I don't even have coilovers! If you don't have them, get them immediately! And for all new 2nd gen GS owners, first upgrade to your suspension MUST BE megan traction rods! You won't regret it I promise!!🙌🏾
Your videos have a way of encouraging me to spend lots of time and money on my GS and I thank you for it! Always helpful on FB, IG and here on RU-vid. Appreciate you in the community!
Thanks for posting. Excellent video. I've got a Lexus SC430 and I'll be doing this job soon. I will have a little more corrosion to deal with, but hopefully, it will go okay.
Yesterday I just bought a 2002 GS430 for $1000 and I thiiiiink I got a good deal but I’m still scared hahahah. It’s pretty rough, paint is gone headlights faded, Dent on rear door, but the big issues are the transmission. In reverse sometimes it doesn’t engage and you have to rev it WAY up and it sloooowly starts to go backwards. It also has an evap leak and it leaks oil it’s seeping pretty bad. Other than that it drives pretty flawlessly and I’m very happy with it. It has SC430 wheels lol. I hoooope the trans is not terrible expensive 🤣
@@ForwardMomentum thanks so much! That will be the first thing I check. Your channel is a godsend for 2 gen GS content! Looking forward to my GS430 project!
Another awesome GS400 upgrade video! Thanks Christian! BTW, my GS came with a 1.5" drop, and the camber ran out of adjustment at -1.3 deg F&R. I want to bring it in more so that the tires last longer. I'm considering either welding some thickness onto the stock camber adjustment stop (free but ghetto), or buying the Megan Racing F&R control arm kits (deluxe but $$$). What are your thoughts? How much is your GS lowered, and what’s your camber look like?
My camber is -1.0 F and -1.2 R. If you get front RCA’s it should help a little, but yours isn’t out bad enough to where I would do anything personally.
camber wont wear your tires its the tow you onky get "camber " wear because thats what is making the contact if you have 0 camber your entire tire will just wear
What is the name of part you point at? 7min 51 sec mark "the shop is going to want to move this"...I wrote more but my comment did not save... found this part Alignment Camber Adjusting Eccentric (Rear) at Lexus website, Mechanic called it rear tie rod adjuster. Is it this? Thanks. Ps/fyi I have Godspeed rear toe adjustable toe arms. Cheers
Eccentric bushings. Some people call them cam bolts. They adjust toe on factory suspension set ups. That’s what the shop will be accustomed to looking for and moving vs toe arms. That’s all I meant. 😎
@@ForwardMomentum Many names lol...I just now found the paper were I had him write it down and he put "frozen inside toe adjuster/rear cam adjuster...going to him tomorrow to confirm what I printed/if right part Eibach PRO-ALIGNMENT Camber Plate/Nut Kit 5.67510K (found on Tirerack). Thanks so much, they won't do my free alignment (for life) unless I fix that and also fix the rack and pinion (hit a bad/deep bump and cracked/minor leak). Cheers!!
I basically do 50% of it in my upcoming LSD series and older vids. I do the diff subframe inserts and subframe supplemental bushings in the LSD series. 👍
Hey question! So I just purchased these and installed my self. I had them pretty much spot on and the car feels soooo much better in handling. However just to be safe, I took it to the shop to get an alignment. After the alignment, whenever I go Over any hump @30+mph, the whole car is wobbling everywhere. On freeway it feels like it's going to lose control..Ive read that the toe out is the issue..Should I take back to shop or fix myself? Any input would be great, thanks!
The shop screwed something up for sure. I have found that many don’t know how to adjust these until you point it out because they’re used to cam bolts only. Let’s put it this way: if it didn’t do this before you went to the shop, and now it does it, logic says they screwed something up.
@ForwardMomentum ok cool. Yeah I new they did. And the worst part is the guy is supposed to be one of the best in this area. Bragged about how he knows his stuff 🙄 thanks for the advice. 👍🏽
Yeah. As shown in the video, you can get it close, but probably not perfect. And toe eats tires fast. Make sure the alignment shop understands you have aftermarket adjustable toe arms and not standard cam bolts before you take it in. It’s possible they won’t do the alignment. Once I told my shop, they said no problem and dialed in the toe.
ohh would you do a how to change lower ball joints? i heard terror stories about these coming out , my engines has 250k miles on it and i dont no if they ever been changed
Generally pretty easy, yeah, but plan on doing it over the weekend or something. It took me a couple days but once I did one side, the other side was a LOT easier and quicker because I knew what I was doing 😅 I do, however, recommend picking up a ball joint separator tool. I could NOT hammer out the lower ball joints to save my life. My GS had 240k miles so I imagine yours are just as stuck. Research, read and take notes, reach Forward Momentum's video and a couple others. You'll be fine lol.
I'm really confused , alignment shop told me I have excessive negative toe while the toe arm being maxed out cuz of how low I am, but your saying when a gs is lowered it gains positive toe, so I dont know what to believe especially since I read negative toe wears out the inside edge of tires (which is what's happening to me) and positive toe wears out the outside edge
When lowering a car, generally speaking, the front will tow out and the rear will tow in. There are many other factors at play of course, but that’s the general rule.
Those cam bolts are known to seize due to corrosion. I recommend dousing them with PB Blaster and using a blunt-end air hammer while hitting the bolt (might need a friend). If that doesn’t get it, nothing will.
Cutting it is pretty risky because 80% of it can remain in there with the same issue. My hesitation with a torch is annihilating surrounding parts and the fuel tank proximity. If you can do it safely then it couldn’t hurt.
@@ForwardMomentum Thinking of buying these as I type. Are you saying there's no need for the traction arms? Or did you mean no need to replace them if you just lowering, not if you are overhauling.
@@ForwardMomentum Yeah those are the issues I was referring too. For some reason he bumped the price up by 1500 bucks and I just figured out it’s a rebuilt title too so I don’t want to mess with that
This was filmed before the 9K arrived. In fact, I’ll have a radiator replacement episode that has the old lift in it too. I have already filmed 90% of the Stratus 9000 episode and so far I really like it. It will be a few weeks before I release it though.
@@ForwardMomentum I’m about to pick up the 9k in a few weeks. I have a wide variety of vehicles in my fleet and this should lift all of them. Old BMW 2002, RZR, Mini, Ram 2500, jetta wagon. There aren’t many videos on that lift specifically so hopefully you release something soon.
Definitely. I may move the review video ahead of my radiator vid. It’s really nice. A huge step up over the MSOC80. A few things worth noting: the hydraulics/wiring come out of the front right, there’s less room between the ramps (32”), it doesn’t come with a way to jack up the cross bars to slip the wheels on (the 80 came with a tool), it’s 73” ramp to ramp and that’s about it. Really impressed with this one overall!
@@ForwardMomentum big difference between the ramps, the other one was like 41 inches. I think it’s probably still enough room to do driveline and exhaust work
Hey Brother. Looking at replacing the rear toe link right now. How is your experience with Megan piece? Does it hold the adjustment? I’m rebating the Megan or an SPL and debating if I need to spend double the money on SPL. Expected driving habits are Highway daily, no racing, no drifting.
