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Thanks! Gonna use this vid as a guide to lower my B8. I do recommend you loosen all suspension bushings and tighten with the suspension under load. Your control arms bushing can wear faster, flex and tear if you don't.
For anyone who does this in the future, it’s way easier to loosen and take off the bolt closest to the engine on the upper control arms, no banging/heat or frustration needed. I tried his method for about 3 hours, tried the second option and had the passenger side done in 45 mins
Wow what a fantastic video and a clear demonstration of you knowing your stuff down to the bolt sizes, that was very impressive indeed. I enjoyed watching the whole video. I do have to say though that I was bitterly disappointed at the end because you didn't show us the final result and so that we could clearly see the difference all your work actually made on the appearance of the car!!!! I was itching to see how much better the car looked after you dropped it!!!! In future with your videos please ensure to show us the final result so that we can see the fruits if your hard labour, so we can compare the before with the after! Many Thanks buddy!!!!!
Hope this helps. Just got done doing this and around the 20min mark when trying to sit the bushings, take out the top cover on the strut and with the bushings lined up with a jack from underneath, you can knock them in with a hammer and solid pipe. Don't know if that is what they are for but made it so easy. Just throwing that out there since I haven't seen anyone talk about it on RU-vid and made mine so much easier.
The pinch bolt on the first side I did was seized so I disconnected the control arms from the top where they connect to the strut mount. I used two 16mm wrenches and it was really easy. When assembling, you should connect the control arms back to the strut mount before installing the upper strut mount bolts, sway bar bolt, and lower strut mount bolt. This will allow you some room to get the control arms connected more easily. I did the second one this same way and it went a lot quicker.
Thanks for the video! It was key to helping me install new springs on my S4. Luckily my California car had no issues with the control arm joints,just popped right out. In the rear I recommend using the spring compressor like you did to remove the OEM springs, but I used straps to install the new springs, it was super easy this way. Thanks again! Also, thanks for the strut spreader tool, it worked great!
Thanks to your video was able to save a ton of money on getting both rear springs changed and one was broken but was unsure if i can get them out without ripping the whole suspension apart
Great video. Great explanations and thanks for mentioning the wrench sizes - saves me a couple trips to the shed....lol Im just about to do my allroad - I think i'll just leave it at factory height. We get a bit of snow and it's a winter car as well as summer. Thanks again
My upper control arms just popped right out with the pinch bolt out, was super easy both sides b8 s4, my biggest struggle was the clamp that slides onto bottom of shock when re installing
Morning .I from South Africa and do watch and follow your videos .the point is I tried to create account as to order some tools from you but on the options of countries I was not there,just clarity.thanx n keep the good work.
As you can clearly see, the bolt had already been out before the video was made. Somebody gracefully jumped over the always present pinch bolt nightmare...
Two things..one you can unbolt the upper control arms from the upper strut housing instead of using the pinch bolt side..way easier. And 2 you don't need spring compressors for the fronts. They aren't under any tension..
THIS!! I pissed about for ages with the pinch bolts before giving up and doing it using the too bolts... Loads easier! Wish I'd saw/understood this comment earlier!
My car has these and the ride is terrible. The owner before me put them on. The ride bumps up and down. Does this sound more of a bad strut/shock issues?
Instead of breaking your sweat with upper ball joints, you could have just loosen the control arms from the top. Much much easier job. I installed coilovers for my B8 like that. Of course, when tightening them back, one must jack the assembly up, but thats also an easy thing.
From experience. Your video is making the process harder then it actually is. For the top control arms. You can wedge a flathead in and slightly hammer it to loosen the clamp tension. Spray a little wd40 in to the wedge. Then use a rubber mallet and tap the control arms out. The lower strut bolt would come out easier if you didnt let the entire suspension fully extended and putting friction on the bolt. Use as jack to lift the bottom control arm up little to take the tension of the bolt and will make it easier to pull out.
@@Deutscheautoparts Not entirely true, as I spoke with my Audi techs about that job, and they said to specifically use a flathead screwdriver or small punch to widen the pinch just enough to make the upper control arms pop out. That's what I did this weekend and it worked fine. No cracking, no breaks, nice and easy. The only problem was the pinch bolt.
Thanks. Very informative. What wheels did you end up putting on? Stock? Would you be able to use 20" x 9 with P-Zero 265/30-20 tires..or do you need to stick with the stock S4 19" wheels?
Used this channel to service my transmission, they cut the seconds where the actual bolt came loose for the brace… i torqued the bolt out into puddy and it snapped off it was the worst day of my life. I had to literally go buy an impact gun to get the other three out. Took 8 hours to drill the bolt out of the subframe
I never worked on an Audi but could you avoid messing with those ball joints by just removing the shock mount from the top? That’s what I did with my old Jetta. I put a jack on the bottom and raised the center shaft up the tower then I put the top mount finger tight
Please do a video on a A6 C6 rear springs.. without crazy $1200 Audi tool. lol I mean I got it done using 2-3 spring compressor designs and compressing it on the A-arm.
Could you have removed the two upper control arm nuts/bolts near the strut tower instead of removing the pinch bolt and needing to hammer out the two upper control arm connections there?
Nice video and good comments from others. I have a question for my 2011 Q5. The front left coil spring is broke. If I get the OEM part or after-market same coil spring, do I need to also replace the front right coil spring? What other non-audio OEM do you recommend? Thank you in advance. Jeff
Jeff Fan if it’s the same spring meaning same ride height and progressiveness/same weight rating then you’ll only need one spring. However, if you’re going aftermarket like H&R for a bit of a drop then you’ll of course want to buy all 4 springs so the car rides properly/doesn’t look weird. Hope this helps!
@@nastyy.8582 Thanks Nathan for the reply. You are right. I brought a pair of Suplex coil springs, same length and width/diameter as the original audi OEM but just 1mm thinner. I only replaced one side and the ride ended up the same as the other side. So far i feel there is no need to replace the potter side. Will see after it settled in a few month. Both audi dealer and the online parts sales said I need to replace both even it's OEM coil. I guess maybe because the new Suplex spring is not as thick as the old audi OEM spring and they are somehow close in strength.
Jeff Fan honestly man if you’ve had the spring in for a few days and the car isn’t sitting crooked you’re fine. Another thing I would’ve checked in the weight the springs are. Certain springs have different ratings which could affect performance but if they’re an OE style spring I think you’re all set man.
May i ask you how long it took you to do all springs? I have bought the eibach pro kit springs do you know how they compare in height and ride, to these ones?
Quick question: does anyone know if the Front springs are interchangeable - left and right?! I have the same, or should I say similar - H&R OE Sport springs, and I have noticed from the first install day that left (driver) side sits a bit (around 3-5mm) lower than right side. And now, after about 6 months, it feels even lower. So I was wondering, if I could change their position from left to right, and other way - and being on the heavier end myself, maybe I'll balance out the driver side as time goes by. Anyone has any idea please?
yeah don't buy the super sport springs i have them on my MK6 GTI and they are way to low for the streets.. the handling is amazing but way to low.... and also these steps the same as the mk6 GTI?
Great video as usual, but wow, this strikes me as incredibly over engineered. I'm sure there's rationale for it being an S4 and all, and I don't claim to be smarter than Audi, but wow... I mean, what a rediculous strut mount. Regardless, keep up the good work!
Just done this job myself. Takes a bit of time but nothing hard about it. Guess i got lucky with that top pinch bolt though. Threw out the crappy electronic suspension. Just not suited to NZ roads. I have put in Bilstein B8's with O34 springs. The ride is far superior to the original suspension. Its firmer yet smoother at the same time.
I'm soon moving from an E46 M3 into a 2010 B8 S4 and it looks like I'll be leaving any suspension work to a garage. Doesn't look too hard but living in scotland I can guarantee that those pinch bolts and rear spring perches are already a bitch in waiting to cause me a very bad day!
Great Video! Always a a lot of great information. I am currently focused on upgrading my S4. Is this the best spring to put on a S4 without going too low? I just put out my first video on my channel. Come check out my 2012 Audi S4 & 2017 VW GTI. Thanks!
Damn. You made this look and be so much harder than it actually is to do. Not sure why though. You could have saved atleast 30 minutes a corner bud.....
