My husband passed away unexpectedly. I’m living in a fixer upper, so I’m left with a pretty big project. Working on the house is surprisingly therapeutic. It feels good to build in a time when life has taken so much away. Thank you so much for your help!
I'm terribly sorry to hear that. Working on projects is very therapeutic, not only is it rewarding but it also keeps the hands busy and the mind off of it all. Good luck on the rest of the house and keep your head up! Thanks for sharing and take care!
Unexpectedly seems to be the common trend lately. I am very sorry for your loss. The govt should be ashamed of themselves forcing people to do something they didn’t want to do. I hope you get through this tough time.
Fantastic work, Jesse. Really enjoyed watching all the tips and tricks. A similar future video on installing window trims will be super helpful. :) Happy Holidays. Cheers!
Thank you very much. I already have a video on installing window and door trim with flat stock trim a few months ago, but not the moulded and detailed trim. Thanks for reaching out! Happy holidays!
Nope, it's still there. Couple years old now so the audio and video isn't my best. It's just called Installing Window and Door Trim, the thumbnail says Simple and Modern. It was released just before the shed videos, so if you find them in the list, it'll be right below.
You're welcome, glad I could help. Do you mean infront of? Shoe mounding doesn't go on top. If it's infront of, it's just the exact same methods as the baseboard, just when you nail it on you go through the center of the face of it at a 45° angle with a 2" nail into the subfloor, usually. Depending on your floor it might not reach, if so just lay the nail gun almost on the floor and hit it to the baseboard
Really well done/well explained process. I’m curious as to why , with that butt-joint on that inside corner , the first piece didn’t go all the way to the wall and left a good sized gap . Of course some caulk would fill it in . You don’t do shoddy work , so there must have been a reason . Thanks !
It's just variances in materials, boards being slightly crooked, walls not straight. They add up. Plus I didn't have pressure on it yet so it springs out. Once you press it into the corner, and press it down to the floor it levels off and the gaps close up. You could spend all day finagling over corners if you really wanted to make them absolutely perfect, but there is no reason here.
About the outside corners, what about the corner beads? Can you just shoot a nail through it or do you keep far enough away from it so the nail doesn’t touch it?
Keep the nail back from the corner 1" or so from the drywall, or 1.5" from the outside of the trim. That way you hit the stud in the corner and by that, you'll be well clear of the corner bead.
Carpet first, then base, all day if I can. You have to be a bit more careful doing your touchups at the end since the carpet is down, but man, it's way easier installing the carpet without base in the way
Thanks. Steel is only used in commercial building where I live, I didn't think it was that common. To install them just put a dab of construction adhesive on the back everywhere there is a stud, and another dab in between. Basically a bunch of dots, you can make a line but it'll use more glue. Then at opposing angles fire 2 nails into each stud, almost making a V. They help hold eachother in and prevent movement until the glue dries
@@JessedoesDIY Thanks for replying so quickly I live in Florida and most homes are using steel I’m originally from New York and had a fence company and now I do all types of construction , I was planning to do exactly what you suggested. Thanks again for replying. I mentioned the Steel so you may add that to your video, I thought you did an excellent on your video.
No prob! Ahhh well how about that. Yeah its typically commercial buldings here, I hated working with it when I did this for a living lol. Cool man, well I hope it goes well for you! Thanks for watching
As the seasons change, or the house settles that joint will open up and be very visible. Scarf joints like these are much less likely to open and are less visible
Most of the time you press the boards down like I showed to follow the floor if it isn't too bad, but if it's bad you may want to do the subfloor first
18 guage Brad nailer. You can use it for most anything and in combination with a little glue for extra strength if needed, it has more than anough holding power for general use. It's by far the most versatile. It's rare I need a stapler so a manual one works for me
Go with 16 guage. 18 guage is too small and weak for bigger stock and 15 guage is too big for small detail work. Dewalts 16 guage nailer is just right, IMO.
Typically a good stud finder will let you know what it is behind the wall. But also, plumbing usually, usually comes up from the floor pretty straight, and if you can pull of the trim piece for it you should see what side of the stud the pipe is on. Or just steer clear of known area where toilet or sink plumbing is, if you need to skip a stud to be safe, that's ok.
You could use a stip of that on the back of the trim to avoid nailing there. Just be careful that if you ever need to remove or replace the base, it may damage the wall.
Just redid all of the baseboards in my home last week. I am semi handy, but baseboards was something I had never done out of fear of them becoming an eyesore due to quality of work. I tackled it last week with the help of your video and they came out flawless. Can't thank you enough.
About to replace mine around my bathtubs at home, kids splash every time, and they must be MDF because they’ve started to sponge out. Will be replacing with something else.
Amazing video! I have wanted to do the baseboards in my house, but I haven’t because I wasn’t sure about some of the details. Now I think I can do it! Thanks so much!
I'm so glad you talked about pinning into the studs. Wanna know how many brads I've pulled out of water lines? ITS A INSTANT PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE!!! lol Seriously always brad nail about 1inch above the floor level, if you don't use studs, which I recommend always using studs....be a professional, and always cover your nails, by inserting the brad, another 1/16th inch or 1/8th and use drywall mud, not caulking!! Caulking is for corners, not nails!! A quick sand, and paint, and you'll never see them. I guarantee you, if you use caulk, I will show every spot you've done, with my led light!!
I've been putting off trimming out the baseboard of our basement which we finished earlier this year. This video REALLY helps give me some tips and confidence to get the job done once and for all.
I never really comment on videos but i have to on this one. Great job on explaining everything step by step! From the most common baseboard to use to the most common size people use, to what size nails and why. Great job bro
I am excited about the baseboard that I put in by watching this tutorial. Even though nail guns is expensive I use a hammer and nails by hand. The corners didn't come out quite like his but caulk will take care of that. I have small gaps between the wall and baseboard connecting but caulk will help.
Thanks for the awesome video! You were very informative on what tools and materials to use . Our new MDF baseboards and trim look beautiful. We chose to go with the flat stock for an easier installation in the corners. I’d love to tag you in my before and after video on Instagram. If you have a tag please let me know so I can tag your page.
I love the flatter boards as well! I own my condo so its always fun changing things. In the process of wanting to remove all the old and busted borders,plus roaches get inside and yeahhhh lol😅
What an excellent explanation. I planned to put the basebord myself (first time) and you actually helped a lot on advices and tips. I just realized it will be lots of work also!
Excellent video! I’m gonna redo my whole house. We’re going with a wood baseboard because we plan to leave the natural wood color. How would you suggest covering the nails? Or would you just leave it?
Thanks! They make wax fill sticks to match all different species of wood. If get the one for yours and then you just rub some in the mail hole and wipe off the excess. You may want to get a slightly darker and a lighter one to match the different wood grains better where a nail might be in
I wish the noodle head self proclaimed handy man who did the house that I bought watched your video before doing this. Just redid the trims in my house based on your video and it looks perfect. Thank you.
For this video it was a Canon Rebel SL3, but I never really liked it. I'm using a Sony ZV-E10 now and it is so much better. Once I created a picture profile and saved it, it's great. Thanks for watching, hope that helps, any more questions, just ask
Great freaking video! You inspired me to do my own work, where did you buy the planks? I tried looking for them online, cannot find the 10 pack. Thanks
Thanks, glad you liked it! Awesome, good to hear, it's totally doable. I got them at Home Depot but I've had others tell me that since the pandemic they've been hard to find in the US, if that's where you are. I can still find them in Canada for whatever reason. Either way, you can still get the flat stock by the foot there. They have like 20' long pieces you can get or cut down if needed. Good luck on yours!
Excellent tips. Thanks! I made a rookie mistake by buying a casing narrower than the baseboard. I couldn't figure out how to transition the joint. The angled end is perfect!!!
We have someone installing carpet for us. We know we want to change the base boards but we can’t afford it just yet. In your opinion is it better to just remove all the old trim before the carpet installation?
If someone else is installing I might just leave them for now as they can tuck the carpet under. Then you'll still have baseboards until you can get to them later!
Thank you so much for making a home reno project like this something that a beginner can accomplish!! I'm ripping out carpet and will have to replace baseboard and I feel COMPLETELY capable of doing it after this vid! So many thanks to you for this!
When we 1st bought our house 15 years ago, I did my best with a bathroom redo (wainscoting, baseboards). Needless to say, it did not stand the test of time. Thank you for this video, because i didn't use any of your tips the 1st time. Using these tips will surely give a far better result.
Hey, I did the same thing when I bought my house. Then I learned and figure that I didn't even know what I didn't know lol Now I'm redoing it all. I'm happy I could help and good luck on yours!
thanks for this video 🙏🏽 my bedroom has no baseboards and is on ground level. i’ve been getting so many spiders this year and i think it’s because i have no baseboard ☹️ i’ve been asking my dad to put them in for a little over a year and and he hasn’t yet…so im taking things into my own hands lol. thank you again for this video
Use whatever you like. I explained why the angles are what they are in the video. This gets you close, caulk will fill the rest. Once it's on the floor and finished out, even if the wall isn't perfect, it'll look good to the eye from standing height, and that's all that matters
It would be a nightmare to get a full coat of paint on them properly and get proper coverage while laying on the ground after. Plus it's faster to pre paint with a roller.
This is a great video. I'm curious how much would it cost to hire a person to do it versus doing it yourself? Let's say for an average bedroom like the one in this video
Question-why did you glue together the 44 degree pieces of wood but then just nailed in wall without connecting pieces beforehand for the other corner?
I was showing if you used a profiled board (not a flat board like I used, it was all I had) that you should use a inside cut and the angle to do it. But then I showed how to install flat board as they can just slide into each other and be installed separately
The mud is piled onto/into the inside and outside corners to cover over the metal corner protectors, screw holes and tape that you don't see but are there. This means the corners aren't really 90 degrees anymore. You can test this with a builders square, and you'll see that they are either sharper than 90deg on the outside corners and a little less sharp (obtuse) on inside corners. Adding or subtracting 1 degree on each side of these cuts gets you closer to the real shape of the corner.
Probably, or not enough or at all. When I bought my house the last owner just installed them, poorly, without paint at all, just the primer from the store.
Great video! You have a very relaxed style and good simple explanations. FYI: There is a California paint manufacturers, who shall remain nameless, that makes chalking in 4 different off- white colors. They do this by adding paint to the chalking. This way it never discolors over time as it is sealed with the paint. Swiss Coffee White is my favorite. Great to touch-up scribe molding on cabinetry to the wall without re-painting. I've done complete house interiors leaving the trim to wall chalking till after everything is painted. Then simply chalk your casings and baseboard to the walls and you get a perfect straight line every time. Just saying!
@@JessedoesDIY This method has saved me a lot of time especially on touch up to cabinets, base and crown. Kelly Moore here in California is the paint manufacturer I referenced. Love your videos!
Not needed, maybe a dab in the corners to the wall but that's it. Between the nails into the studs and caulking it'll be just fine...not to mention easier to remove in the future without damaging the walls if needed
You can glue in the last 6 inches or so at a corner to help it stay closed, but I've never had an issue. You'd also glue them to concrete walls or walls with steel studs
Exactly what I needed to see as I am completely new to tools and this type of diy. Tired of paying people to do work around my house and the price gouging. Appreciate this video bro
@@JessedoesDIY Indeed. I just hit The stores today right after watching you video for all my power tools, materials and supplies. I was playing around 😂😂😂
It's kind've a pain. It needs to be yanked out from under it and off the tack strips. Then the new carpet has to be cut slightly larger than up to the baseboard so it can slide under it. Then use carpet tuckers to push it under the base and kickers to stretch and lock it to the tack strips. I'd rather just remove and replace them, which is what I did lol
Hold the nails back from the corners of the wall a bit to avoid hitting corner bead which can deflect the nails and send them out the sides or face of the boards
I'm about to do baseboards on my new house and am curious, I just want the same as in the video but I was trying to decide between miter cuts or butting it up but I was going to use a dado stack or router to make a rabbet. Just sticking the two pieces together seems like cheating but if you can't tell...
@@JessedoesDIY I'm actually in the middle of doing it. I just mitered them because there was a bevel on the front top. Thanks! And I agree, if someone starts picking on my baseboards I'll politely tell them to stop. Lol.
I just realized I made more work for myself. I bought profiled trim. I installed profiled trim in 3 bedrooms with great success but never again. I'm going with profile-less trim from here on out. My nemesis is the trim cut with an inside corner to an outside corner. The CA glue is a must have. Great tip on the 44 degrees..
Yup, been there. The profiles are nice, but waaaay more work. Flat stock still looks great and modern but that install is the way to go. Glad I could help!
