Thank you so much for commenting that! I really appreciate it and hope I taught you something to give you confidence to try it yourself! Have a blessed day 😎
Bar far this was one of the best and simplified videos on installation of Double French Doors I've watched. I know nothing about that yet was able to follow you. I watched it several times and will still watch it when I am ready to start my project, but needed to say I learned a lot. Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching! That scrap piece is very essential to keeping the reveals and like you said keep her from flexing while I’m getting the door into the opening and adjusting into place. Appreciate your time on the channel! Have a blessed day 😎
Casing on the bottom was a smart touch. Gotta say though, I would NOT rely in brad nails alone. Once the door was in place, square and plumb, driving four (4) 3” screws through the door stop - at top and bottom hinges - is advisable. I’ve done that on several door installations and consider it a MUST with solid wood & glass double doors.
I have 6 French doors I'm installing by myself...2 new and 4 re-installs. I've watched several videos on RU-vid that over complicated the process. I followed your step-by-step process, and the doors went in fast and perfect. Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial video. Please make more!!!
I am very glad that I was able to help you with your install! French doors can be tricky sometimes especially if your installing by yourself! Thanks for coming across my video and getting back to me with your accomplishments! There has been a real slow down on filming for the last 2 years…I intend to pick things back up again soon! Have a blessed day 😎
I hope I have the same results because of him. I’m trying to install 2. Just a set that leads into the back room of the house. I have to make the frame/jamb though. It’s intimidating. I can’t find a video where they’re doing it like that. All of the videos I’ve found so far are already framed.
Thank you ,thank you. I have 8 doors to replace in my house. Hi found your video on five minute tours after I butchered the first door. Your instructions were so very good I really appreciate it you’re a great teacher you have given me the confidence to install a door anywhere any time
Great job Hunter! I'm covering an arch 94" wide with a pair of 36" (x80") French doors... nice red mahogany. Will have to fill in sides. and top on one side. 1398 for the prehung doors at Home Depot. Thanks for doing the video. I learned some good details!
That one trick you show at 2:04 was worth the video (have to pause). Line up the mitered corner with an edge to pull tape from. I always just add an inch and pull from the 1" mark, but on a long header like that this should be a lot less frustration.
I install trim on one side before setting the door in the opening same as you. I’ve done it that way for 40 years but you are the only other person in all that time that I have seen do it too. 👏 Question though, what is the point of a nail at top and bottom of each hinge. I generally nail at something of equidistance along the length. Many thanks.
good idea putting the cleat on the bottom. I can do all the doors without one except for the double 3/0 doors, I cant get my arms across the width. Im trying this tomorrow at work. I only attach the head casing until i get the door leaning on the opening. great video
Thank you! Make sure your cleat to hold the bottom of the door is smaller than the gap from bottom of door to bottom of jamb leg…gives you room to knock the cleat down and slide a flat bar to bend the nails out from the bottom of the door(if that makes sense). On a finished floor I try to use 1/2” plywood found on the job site, strong enough to hold the door together but also easy to remove on finished floor. One more quick tip to help with install…when case hanging a double or French doors I’ll nail the header and nail next to the top two hinges on each side…then at the bottom hinge of each side I’ll tap the casing and hinge closer to each other, about an 1/8” on each side (like I’m making the reveal tighter at the bottom). The reveal won’t change with the scrap piece nailed to the bottom, this will prevent the reveal from getting larger at the bottom when removing the scrap piece. If the reveal is tighter at the bottom after removing the scrap piece simply use a flat bar or scraper and pry the door reveal open before shimming the other side. I hope this makes sense to you, it’s hard to describe some things over text. Thank you very much for contributing your time on my channel! Let me know how this trick goes for you when you try it out! Have a blessed day 😎
@@huntercarlson5446 I'll keep the cleat on the bottom narrow, thin, and sticking out inwards me. The only real problem I run into is the walls being super out of plumb causing the doors to not line up, for this I carry a sledge hammer to move the walls if needed.
Great job explaining this project Hunter! I would love to see you shoot more videos with a better camera (iPhone 13). This was extremely helpful. You earned my subscription for sure. Thank you.
I really appreciate it! I recently purchased the iPhone 13 so the quality will be better in the future! Struggling to get videos edited and uploaded currently, but I will work hard to get more posted! Thanks for watching and have a blessed day 😎
Thanks Hunter. Question, would you always case hang? I have heavy double French doors that were shipped but not attached to the jamb. The hinges are set and I could easily put the door on. Just curious what you would do. Thanks
I almost ask what shims do you use. but I have everything on description, you have every step timing. F@$%k men I love your channel. I appreciated the info.
Thank you for making this video. It is probably the best one I’ve seen on the topic. I have an entryway that I will have to close in so I can install a door. Do you have any suggestions on how to frame an entryway so a door will fit?
Nice job Hunter. When you shoot the 4 nails into the jamb after shimming, are all 4 into the jamb or do you put 2 in the jamb and 2 in the stop. Thanks.
I always put at least 1 nail into the door stop and into the shim once I have the door hitting nicely against the door stop...this just helps hold that door stop in position if the door gets slammed in the future...usually the door stop is nailed to the jamb with a 18ga 1” nail so adding a little strength with a 16ga 2” nail just holds that door stop into position for future use...keep up with those questions! I am more than happy to help, and can respond much faster when I’m not camping... have a blessed day! Talk with ya soon
@@huntercarlson5446 No worries, and thanks for getting back to me. Maybe you can do a video on the system you use for guys like me. Your videos have detailed instruction and are easy to understand. Keep up the great work.
I just bought double doors to replace the set in our office. They are a set of pre hung doors. Can I take the old doors off the hing and replace with the new doors without having to remove the jamb? Thanks for your videos and taking the time to elaborate.
As long as the new pre-hung doors are the same size as the old one, you should be able to swap the doors out without removing the jamb...one thing to look for is the positions of the hinges, does your new door match the old doors with hinge locations? Just take a few measurements to make sure the hinges are in the proper locations... Pop the pin out of the hinge with a nail and hammer, leave the hinge screwed to the jamb and just replace the hinge screwed to the door...once half of the hinges are screwed to the new door line up the hinges 1 by 1 to slide the pin back into the hinge, this can be tricky so get top or bottom hinge first then use a hammer to tap up or down on the others to line hinges into position...make sure to tap the pins all the way down with the hammer... Another trick to help...once you have the new doors on the old jamb and swinging, there might be a different reveal (gap between door and jamb/gap between both doors when closed) you can adjust this reveal slightly by using a larger screw at the hinge locations...take one screw out of the hinge to the jamb and replace with a new 2 1/2” wood screw...by running a larger screw you can grab the wood framing behind the jamb and hinge and flex the jamb by making that screw extra tight...this can really make a difference in reveals, sometimes it’s trial and error to understand how the door will move with flexing the jamb with a larger screw at the hinge... Hope all that made sense...if the doors are the correct size with the correct hinge locations then you should be set to just swap them out... This morning I am actually swapping out doors on a double door myself so I’ll get some footage if the homeowner is ok and try to release the video by the end of the weekend...it will give you a better idea of everything I’m explaining...hope you have a blessed day! Stay in touch so I can help you get your doors figured out!
Thanks for your advice I will definitely try it! Just so you know I just changed out our stool in our office and one of your videos helped out with measuring and making sure it was leveled! Thanks Carlson University!😃😃🎓
Lol 😂 Carlson University! Love it! Glad I was able to help! So unfortunately the double doors didn’t get painted during the week so I wasn’t able to get any footage this morning🤨 swapping out the doors...if you have any additional questions on your doors don’t hesitate to ask!
Do you pre-cut the jamb if the floor is slightly out of level from one side to the other if you’re on setting on finish floor? If you shim one side up then there would be a gap between bottom of jamb and floor.
I don’t like having the door with the door knob on that side. I think they bought the wrong door and you did the best you could with what they gave you.