Love the hack with the 5/16 guide bolts (great idea)! Giving this a try this weekend as I am replacing the gaskets due to a small leak in the back/center of the manifold. It's most likely the 'cork' area but if I'm going to do all that, I might as well do all the gaskets. Love your videos...they are EXTREMELY helpful to recent classic Mustang owners like myself (bought a '67 convertible last year).
Just did this a few months ago! I'm having a little pooling down in those crevices on the water pump, but have been too lazy to pull it out and reinstall it right, but I think you've inspired me to do so, plus I have a guide now! Another great one, thanks!
Sorry to hear about your coolant issues, but like you said, hopefully this will help. Also, I redid my water pump and timing cover and that will be out in a few weeks, maybe there'll be some good info in there too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh yeah that sounds like just what I need! I'm in the process of running some new wiring around my engine bay. I'll probably be finishing that around the same time you're uploading the water pump and timing cover, then I can jump right into that. These cold months really slow me down, and make me realize I need a heater for my garage! Hopefully it'll be a little warmer for these bigger projects. Also what carburetor did you go with? I'm rocking a 650cfm Edelbrock AVS2 (Manual Choke) and that same performer rpm manifold, seems like we have similar tops ends! (If you're saving the carb reveal for an upload I'll be patient and wait for that, cause I know I'll be here to watch it!)
@@StankyPete9 These months slow me down too. I did a bunch of videos in Nov so they could be released in Dec and so I didn't have to be out in the cold. But all those videos have come and gone and I've had to be out there making more in the cold weather. I need a heater too. :) The new carb is coming on Thursday! :)
Hey, been watching your videos - commented on another one too. Wanted to let you know they are really, really good. You get right to the point, give the info we need, skip the stuff that is not worth watching... the camera shots are great, you esplain things weil, and I apprectiate even getting the part numbers !!
I like the trick with the 3M adhesive. I'll try that next time... It looks cold in there. I added a 1 ton mini split to my garage and it makes it a whole lot better when working in the garage in both winter and summer.
I wish I could take credit for that 3M stuff, but I saw someone else do it a long time ago. It was really cold in there when I filmed that, like below 20 degrees. I'd like to make the garage more habitable for both the winter and summer, but all my money is going towards the car. :)
Glad it was helpful! I wish I could take credit for it, but it's something I saw someone else do and I immediately put that little trick in my pocket. :)
Another great video Andy! I saw lots of back and forth debate when researching those cork gaskets. Since I had time, I went ahead and used Permatex Black to set the cork gaskets to the block, waited a day, then did the rest. This way the cork gaskets couldn't move around. I was too worried about the integrity of just sealant alone - what if I didn't build it up high enough to seal? So yeah, we'll see if it works, I'm still waiting until Spring to get my engine back in the car. Also, Alf's Garage taught me to not use the teflon tape on the temp sending unit, so heads up on that if you find your temp gauge isn't reading right. So appreciate your vids, keep up the great work!!!
Yeah, I saw one of Alf's recent videos and he didn't put teflon tape on the Temp Sending Unit, but it was after I made this video. I have since gone back and removed that tape, you'll be able to tell on future videos. It's one of those things I might try and mention when I do follow-up videos. :)
Another great video, you and I seem to be almost doing the same projects to our 66 fastbacks at the same time. I did my intake upgrades last summer, I went with a holley 600 cfm part#0-80458SA, and my car loves it! I also upgraded the cooling system at that time. Keep the videos coming
@@AndyKruseChannel aluminum 3 row radiator, hi flow aluminum water pump, new thermostat housing, and hoses, I added a trans cooler, ford racing intake, holley carb, higher flow fuel pump, I did black braided fuel lines for a race style look. Monte carlo bar, shelby style export brace, i did shelby air filter & shelby valve covers, upgraded the headlights to tri bar style halogen and upgraded the wiring harness. If you remember...we chatted before about wheels and tires I did 16s as well(torque thrust). The next hurdle is 4 wheel disc brakes & ill be doing the rear diff like you did on your coupe. I'd love to share pictures and ideas/info with you
@@nathannelson7020 Wow, that's a comprehensive list. Maybe I'm the one that should be saying that we're doing our projects at almost the same time. My contact info is on the "About" tab, a few pics of the car would be great!
@@AndyKruseChannel well I won and lost today.. I lost 5 hours but I won the battle with the intake. Turns out mallets and crowbars were a better solution than a putty knife and happy thoughts.
Safety tip, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first. If you are wrenching on the positive post before disconnecting the negative, you have a chance of arcing to something with your wrench.
I have a stock 351c 2v with headers that I put an aluminum edlebrock and a 650 cfm carb and it bogs at wide open throttle. But if u ease into its fine. Runs grate at idle and is good when cruising. But just no wide open.
It's likely too rich if you mash the pedal and it bogs. With the edelbrock it could be too small of rod or too large of jet, or some combo of both. There are edelbrock tables out there where it can help determine the rod size for your given application. Because of the step in the metering rod, you can dial in idle or cruising fuel flow, and then also pick a different diameter for WOT. Without know the specifics of your setup, it's tough to point you to a specific rod size, so you'll need to do a little digging there. :)
You need to do like me. I live in the northeast and decided I didn’t want to see my breath anymore. Or not feel my fingers while I’m working on my car. Bought a mr heater 80k btu and ran a gas line up from my basement. It’s 65 in my garage in 15 minutes now, even if it’s in the teens outside. I’m working in a t-shirt. For less than 1000 bucks you to can be working in comfort.
I have a 68 cougar with the same C code 289, I’ve been thinking of switching it over to a4 barrel like this. Did you see much performance improvement with just changing the intake a carb. Great video, thanks.
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I’m not looking to build a race car, just something nice to cruise in that is reliable. I’ve done some research and from what I can find I don’t know if anyone makes a carb kit for a 2100 that will stand up to ethanol. Thats why I’m looking at switching to a 4 barrel. Also I did some head damage years back and have to decided if I want to fix the factory heads or switch to some aftermarket heads. The one nice thing with my car is it is all numbers matching so keeping it that way would be kind of cool. Changing out the heads could end up going down a really deep rabbit hole, but might be worth it in the long run. Thanks for the info.
Barely, but that is probably because this engine was tired and needed to be rebuilt. Most engine modifications to n/a engines are difficult to notice individually. It’s really the some of the parts that a difference can be noticed.
Hey Andy I really do enjoy your videos they are very step by step for the average guy like me just getting into the Mustangs got the 66 with a stock 289 do you think the Edelbrock intake with a 600 Holley is too mucho for the stock 289 right now so I guess the question is the 600 CFM thanks very much
Thanks! I found that the 600 is probably the upper limit of a stock 289, you might find a little better performance with a 550 or even a 500 cfm unit. However, as you begin to upgrade parts and pieces, you may find that 600 is where you'll want to be. :)
Nice video. Recently had this same manifold along with a 500cfm Edelbrock carb installed on my 66. I’ll be curious how adding headers improves performance.
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
I don't think it does. There is some hardware that comes with it, but not the four carb studs, nuts, and gasket. It also does not come with the intake gasket set, but you probably already knew that. :)
I definitely can cause issues, especially if there are several layers. I went back and took it off after this video, you'll be able to see it's not on there in later videos. Good eye!
Little help. I installed the felpro 90103 gasket but and now have a little vacuum leak up front /left by the #1 cyl. Noticed instructions with gasket say no RTV on gasket but I see you used some. Did you get a vacuum leak? Also, I noticed you didn't use the cork gaskets for ends. Any particular reason? getting ready to redo and replace gasket and try again. Thank for the help, and love the videos. I've used a few of them.
Not sure why you're getting a vacuum leak, maybe retorque the bolts? There are some gaskets that are designed to not need some kind of sealant around the water ports, but I have not been successful without putting some sealant on. I do not believe I have any vacuum leaks, as irregular idling can be an easy indicator of leaks and my idle seems fine. The cork ends are designed to work for most cars, and they probably would have been fine, but that RTV I used guarantees an exact fit. :)
For this video, I didn't have a custom unit yet, just the stock linkage. I later made one that was supposed to be adjustable, but it wasn't. Then I got around to designing my own which I have on my car and sell on my website: KruseBuilt.com 😀
What would happen if small debris went into the holes in the lifter valley? My son and i got the old intake off of the 289, and i asked him to clean off the old gasket. He has a thing about getting his hands dirty and sprayed the lifter valley with engine degreaser and cleaned the build up first. Then he scraped the old gasket material before i realized what happened. Can’t be mad at him for cleaning, i should have been more specific. I am not sure how much debris went in the holes, but i do know an entire can of degreaser was used.
Those holes in the lifter valley lead to the cam shaft and down into the oil pan. The likely scenario is that any large pieces fall down into the pan and sit there until you change the oil. There's a screen on the oil pump, so those piece shouldn't make into your oil system. If the debris is metal and lands on the cam shaft, it might get pinched in between the lifters and the cam lobe and scratch something, but that's a low possibility. You can always change the oil for piece of mind, but depending on the pieces size and location, it may just sit in the pan until you pull the pan off and clean it out. :)
Great idea on the guide studs! How are those gaskets holding up? Any leaks? I know that Edelbrock says not to use that type of gasket, they suggest the fel-1250 if you are going to use fel-pro.
Honestly, that's where it was when I was making the video. The important part is that everything lines up with where you started, in this case it was at 12 degrees so I wanted to put everything back together at 12 degrees. I marked it so it would align when I was done. Starting at zero is probably a better idea as you'd know that everything is starting at zero, but in this case I just needed everything to go back where it was when I started. :)
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams Are you referring to the that Elbow piece that comes out of the top-front corner of the Manifold, the one that would normally route the heater hose to the firewall for the heater core? Or maybe that adapter piece that the elbow threads into, that is threaded into the Manifold? If it's this adapter piece, it's a 1/2-14 NPT to 3/8-18 NPT adapter. :)
i would like to convert to a 4bbl on my 67 289. you can just swap the intake and carb and good to go? nothing else needs to be changed? heads, cam etc?
Correct. Upgrading the heads and cam will be complimented by the larger 4bbl carb and improved manifold you plan to install, but not required if you want to just do the carb and manifold. :)
in the end did you notice a pronounced difference in performance, and if you did, in what way, low end torque, accellereation, higher rpm gains at highway speeds?. i have a 1967 ford fairlane with a stock 289 2 barrel mated to a C4 trans. it has good pick up, will never be a race car but i often have enternained the thought of doing similiar modification. Is it worth the gain in performance ?
I have not had a chance to take the car out yet and see, we've still got snow out here. However, I had a very similar setup on my last Mustang and I was very happy with the increased "happiness" of the car. Once dialed in, the car felt like it had a little more Pep when you hit the go pedal. :) Unfortunately I think just upgrading the intake manifold is not enough of an upgrade to justify it. However, when coupled with an upgraded Carb and an exhaust, it's absolutely worth it. The small bump in power, response, and sound will put a smile on your face. You won't win any races that matter, but it kind of brings the car to life. :)
A few hours. The time consuming part is all the cleaning and prepping surfaces. Everything is pretty much a bolt-on operation, so that part of the swap goes fast. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I just had an aluminum housing crack before reaching 12ft-lbs :/ One side was fine, other side crushed. Might have been a manuf fault.
I’ve wondered that too but never used it. I was thinking it went in the block plug near the rear cork gasket location, but since I use the Gasket Maker stuff, it hasn’t been an issue.
Hey Andy, I just bought this intake as well to switch to a 4 barell carb. Noticed the rear coolant ports get blocked off from this, have you noticed any heating issues? Or no problems?
I have not, in fact this motor is running cooler than my last car (assuming both gauges were working properly), so I have not had any issues. Granted, I don't put the kind of miles on this car like I do on my daily-driver, but so far it has not been an issue.
Awesome video good sir. Would you mind sharing a couple thoughts on why you selected Edelbrock; this is not for debate just curious to know from your perspective. I’ve read great things about this I take relative to the Weiand intake (specifically not meshing well with the heads causing leaks). I’m getting ready to buy the intake and carb - think this Edelbrock carb with a 600 cfm Holley carb. Thoughts? Thanks!!
Thanks! Some of the parts I buy for my car are purely because of the budget. Sometimes I find decent parts on sale and go with them as it frees up money for other parts. In this case, I was able to get a brand new Edelbrock intake for 1/2 price. I was actually looking for a Weiand (I had one on my last car), but this deal came along and I jumped on it. The same with the Carb I put on in next week's video. The Carb was such a good price that I had to scoop it up. I haven't heard of any issues with intakes not fitting well, but sticking with the bigger brands will help ensure proper fit.
@@AndyKruseChannel that make sense for sure, thank you for sharing. Where do you get most of your deals from? Half off sounds wonderful! Also, have you found a radiator yet? I believe your last radiator install was a champion two-row with 1” tubes; I cannot find that model available anywhere. If you’re having the same issue, what else would you go with?
@@rjohnson6226 I find deals on Craigslist, Facebook, and Ebay. Also, sometimes a buddy is selling something, etc. I also have a bad habit of buying parts that I don't need right away, but I know I'll eventually need it, and if it's a good deal...... :) I have not found a radiator yet, but that's because it's lower on my list right now. I bought that Champion off Ebay, I believe it was the CC259 unit. I didn't do enough research to see if there was a better Rad than that Champion without it costing double. There are probably a handful of similar brands with just as good of units, but that Champion was a Champion, it worked great. Plus, when it came time to get an electric fan, finding a shroud that fit perfectly helped because Champion is a large enough brand that other companies make stuff to work with and fit the Champion Rads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the responses. I will keep my eye out! Not a lot of folks have had 3 mustangs (66’s at that!). So it’s good to hear some best practices from someone who’s done it a few times. Looking forward to your feedback on the performance of the intake.
Hmmm So ur going to do this then that, but did u kno if u put 4 barrel heads on it would make a big difference, 2 barrel head don't run so well when u put a 4 barrel on it, yes it works to a point,
